Thursday, February 11, 2010

Shop walls have personality

BRIDGETOWN, Barbados -- Buy something on a trip abroad and chances are you never again reconnect with the merchant who sold you the item. Unless the shopkeeper happens to be Gloria Gaskin, who runs Ann's Craft Centre at Pelican Village in Bridgetown. Gaskin regularly receives letters, photos and even gifts from her customers, the majority of whom are tourists from around the world.

What does she do to attract such a following? The answer may be on the walls. If Gaskin has a passion for something, she finds a way to display it in her store. Photographs, newspaper clippings, and other curios almost seem to overshadow the straw bags and hats for sale.

Visitors may inquire, for example, where she got the "Cricket Australia" cap (a gift from a customer) that sits on a mannequin, or offer to buy the picture of an old Bedford truck that hangs on the wall. A conversation often ensues.

"Looks like you're a sports fan and a political junkie," I speculate out loud after a quick glance around the eclectic shop.

"You can say that again," Gaskin chimes.

At the entrance, just above the straw purses display, is one of the first hints that this is no ordinary craft store. Half-obscured by decorations, are dozens of official looking, professionally shot photos of various high ranking U.S. political figures. There are several of former U.S. President George W. Bush ("He's not a bad person," insists Gaskin) as well as Sarah Palin, John McCain and Condoleezza Rice.

The display has sparked some American visitors to joke that the shop is the headquarters for the Republican Party. Gaskin won't reveal how she got the images, which also include a few Democrats -- most notably U.S. President Barack Obama, and U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton.

"You will not believe this, read it," urges Gaskin, holding out a letter that just arrived in the mail from one of her customers. The handwritten note, from a man in Beaconsfield, Que., came with three photos taken during his family's recent trip to the island.

"We will visit again to make sure they (photos) are displayed beside the photo of President George Bush," he wrote.

Aside from several prominent American politicians, Gaskin has a long list of heroes. They include former leaders of Barbados -- namely the first Prime Minister of the island, Sir Grantley Adams, and his son Tom Adams who was Prime Minister from 1976-85. And when it comes to sports, she's quick to praise English cricketer Andrew Flintoff.

"He's the best all rounder," exclaims Gaskin. "Look here, I'm wearing his shirt."

Not surprisingly one wall of the shop is completely covered from floor to ceiling with sports clippings from various newspapers. One previous visitor, who remarked on the absence of any Canadian sports stories, sent her a clipping after returning home. The article -- with the headline: "Team Canada set on Gold will take on Sweden after a 4-1 semi final win over U.S." -- now hangs prominently on the wall in a pandanas frame.

Customers don't just send Gaskin letters. Sometimes they send her business -- the kind that results in international exposure. The most notable case occurred some years back when a cruise ship passenger, who worked for American designer Anna Sui, bought some of Gaskin's 100% Bajan-made straw bags.

The bags (and hats), it should be mentioned, are hand-woven with pandanas leaves. And Gaskin credits her daughter Ann, after whom the store is named, for coming up with the ingenious use of open raffia to create the colourful designs.

Soon, orders began pouring in. Gaskin learned her bags were being featured in glossy magazines and sold in upscale shops in New York and Tokyo. As well some of the world's top models were seen carrying her purses on fashion runways. Demand from New York, Los Angeles and London doubled, and a string of awards followed. They're on the walls too, along with a photo of model Naomi Campbell carrying one of the purses.

Looking around at the memento-filled walls one last time, I wonder what Gaskin's daughter Ann thinks of the quirky shop.

"She hasn't seen it yet," explains Gaskin. "She's studying in New York."

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EIGHT REASONS TO LOVE BARBADOS

You can't see all of the island's attractions in the average one-week vacation -- though you can try. Here are just a few of my favourite experiences during a recent four-day visit:

- A tour of historic plantation homes including 300-year-old Sunbury House and 350-year-old St. Nicholas Abbey -- two former sugar estates

- Hunte's Garden in the lush hills of St. Joseph. Horticulturist Anthony Hunte has landscaped a natural sink hole into one of the island's most stunning gardens. Strategically placed wicker chairs, classical music, and statues of Buddha, St. Anthony and Neptune add to the ambiance.

- The new Nidhe Israel Museum.

Located in an old stone building next to the Bridgetown Synagogue, it pays tribute to the nidhe ("scattered") of Israel, especially the Dutch Jews who brought the windmill (which powered the sugar industry) to the Caribbean.

- Great eats ranging from the Sand Dunes Restaurant & Bar (tasty Bajan food and easy on the budget), to the stunning over-the-water setting of Champers restaurant, and one of my favourite fine dining experiences -- Daphne's (Italian cuisine).

- Chattel houses -- one-room, often brightly painted homes scattered all over the island. These were built so they could easily be moved from place to place by plantation workers who didn't own the land on which their homes stood. No two are alike. To see an interior of one visit the Tyrol Cot Heritage Village.

- Exploring Bridgetown

Some of the historic sites downtown include National Heroes Square, the neo-Gothic Parliament Buildings, the 18th century St. Michael's Cathedral, the very old and large boab tree at Queen's Park, the Public Library founded by philanthropist Andrew Carnegie, and the Charles Duncan O'Neal Bridge.

- Barbados Concorde Experience Climb aboard a real Concorde! The decommissioned supersonic aircraft is stationed at the Grantley Adams International Airport, where visitors can learn about the history of the plane through multimedia exhibits.

- Beaches

The calm, clear water of Mullins Beach on the west coast is perfect for swimming, although, with more time, I would have also visited Accra Beach on the south coast, which is great for body surfing.

Jaguar: 75 Years Looking ForwardTry local beers at brewpubs