Saturday, January 29, 2011

Riding the desert roads of Arizona

There are dream vacations, and then there are the vacations you dream about, long after the trip is over.

Consider Arizona, on a motorcycle, in the middle of a grim Canadian winter.

I certainly do, every time the cold murk of an approaching February gets me down.

What better time to take a daydream detour back to those glorious days, just weeks ago, when the only thing separating this writer from Arizona was the tires of a 2009 BMW R1200 GS.

It was a rental: My own bike, like so many north of the border, is a prisoner to icy streets and foul weather.

A rotten summer followed by an early winter was all the convincing needed for migration south, seeking a motorcycle holiday at a time when Harleys and Hondas are in cold storage back home.

Twenty-five minutes and one twisty road out of Phoenix later and I must have looked like a complete madman on the big Beemer, laughing out loud with glee.

The daunting task of finding the bike rental place, then navigating freeways out of the city turned out to be easy indeed. Now, all that remained was a week of sun, warmth and adventure.

I was laughing then and it still brings a smile to my face now -- it's probably a nice place by car, but from the saddle of a bike, southern Arizona is a paradise.

Sweet, fresh air opens your eyes to scenery rich with copper-stained cliffs and cactus straight from a Hollywood western. The rugged landscape is laced with perfect roads -- smooth, serpentine and virtually empty.

Those who've ridden great asphalt know the feeling. Every corner brings a new thrill at the adventure ahead, but every road holds a hint of regret because it will soon be in the past.

One could wax poetic for days about the soul-stirring aura of excellent roads, warm weather and a willing bike -- but eventually, the ride has to end somewhere.

In southern Arizona, those somewheres happen to be pretty impressive, too.

You could do a lot worse than following my lead south, to the same Tucson hotel where Public Enemy No. 1, bank bandit John Dillinger, was arrested in 1934.

Until that fateful January night, the Hotel Congress had three floors -- but a fire forced Dillinger to evacuate and a bribe to firefighters to rescue his guns soon attracted the law.

Now just two storeys tall, the Congress makes up for it by being larger than life with period-acurate rooms and a boisterous music club billed as the hippest bar in Tucson.

One very late night later, it was south towards the Mexican border and Bisbee, a once-booming copper town somehow overlooked by the wrecking ball of progress.

It seemed Bisbee could never compete with the splendour of the highway, but with the town in sight, views of hazy desert and majestic mountains were forgotten.

Here was a tiny city, caught in the 1800s -- but an 1800s where Dr. Seuss was the civic planner and no hill was an obstacle to his vision.

From a winding main street caught in a 150-year-old time warp to homes clinging to impossibly steep cliffs, Bisbee is an artsy clutter linked by a maze of stairs and tiny roads.

You can easily lose a day here browsing strange antique stores, museums and shops such as the Killer Bee Guy, who sells honey made by the nastiest of bees.

Restaurants, saloons and cafes pepper Bisbee, while the streets buzz with a relaxed population of artists, old hippies and young student types.

After checking into the plush Copper City Inn, a blend of historic decor and modern luxury, I hiked over to the Queen Mine Tour, which leads head-lamped tourists 1,500 feet underground.

If you're claustrophobic, steer clear.

But those who can stomach utter darkness and a mountain of rock overhead are in for a fascinating glimpse of life in the mines.

Copper fuelled Bisbee's boom, just as silver was responsible for the birth of neighbouring Tombstone, a place I rode into with a mix-t ure of anticipation and dread.

Loving real history, I feared this most legendary of Old West towns would be looted of any actual past in the name of a cheesy, over-the-top tourism industry.

Such a relief then to find a place embracing tourism, without surrendering the soul of its bloody past.

There's some cheese, such as the animatronic cowboys at the OK Corral -- but a balance is found in sites like the Bird Cage Theatre, a ragged and bullet-riddled time capsule of rowdy history.

From Earp-era graffiti to the actual faro table used by Doc Holliday, the theatre was shut down in 1889 and not reopened for 50 years when it was found to be untouched.

Boothill Cemetery is another must-see, full of grim reminders this was a real frontier town where folk died in droves, often with a bullet in the guts or a rope around the neck.

Of course, that's all modern history, compared to the ancient past Arizona offers.

To the north, Tonto National Monument features cliff dwellings established by Salado Indians about 700 years ago.

A trek to the remote eastern edge of the state brings the BMW to Chiricahua National Monument, a Native spiritual site full of surreal volcanic hoodoos.

It's about 600 years newer, but a similar sense of peace can be found nearby at the Dos Cabezas Spirit and Nature Retreat, where you are greeted like family, bike and all.

Guests at the handsome and isolated acreage stay in an adobe guest house built of mud in the 1800s -- and in the morning, owner Charmayne cooks possibly the tastiest breakfast in Arizona.

A full stomach and a head full of motorcycling memories for the trip home.

Arizona dreaming -- it's where I'll be this winter.

michael.platt@sunmedia.ca

Teeing off in Vegas

Travel tips from Delta and more

What do a farmers' market in Fredericton, N.B., an Italian restaurant in Victoria, B.C., and an indoor children's playground in Ottawa have in common?

All come recommended by someone working at the local Delta hotel.

A program called Delta Recommends lets visitors know about restaurants, shops and attractions they might otherwise miss. They are contributed by Delta employees throughout the system -- chambermaids, servers, managers.

You don't have to be a Delta guest to tap into this lode of tips. Visit pages.deltahotels.com/recommends/ and click on the region you'll be visiting, then on the city or cities.

If you are staying at a Delta, ask at the front desk about the program. I did last fall when I checked in at the Delta in Fredericton.

A tourism contact had already put Boyce Farmers' Market on my itinerary, but the duty manager passed along a restaurant tip, which proved to be a good one. (Details are in a column on Fredericton coming this spring).

Sandy Indig, Delta's public relations manager, told me Delta wants to to go beyond the tourism brochures and provide guests with a more authentic experience.

It's a great idea. I've found front-line workers in hotels to be a good source of practical information. They don't make big bucks and seem to know where to to find good value. Hotel breakfasts are often beyond my budget, so I always ask if know of a good cafe or diner.

More leisure travel news:

-- Traverse City, Mich., is offering a TC Escape package -- good until May 19 -- that combines low rates at 28 participating hotels and resorts with discounts on recreation, shopping, dining and entertainment. For winter sports enthusiasts, the package includes discounts on lift tickets, ski lessons and equipment, trail passes and snowmobile rentals. Each adult guest also receives $10 in free play at either of the area's two casinos.

Traverse City is located on the state's Lake Michigan side. It's a major summer resort so has an abundance of good places to stay and eat, and some interesting shops, most of which stay open in winter. Visit TraverseCity.com.

-- Ottawa Tourism's new two-night getaway packages, Get to Know Your Canada and Taste of Canada, offer a third night free at participating hotels. This promotion is valid for bookings made until March 31, but the actual travel can take place any time. The price for each package starts at $116 per night based on a two-night stay for two adults. Visit ottawatourism.ca.

-- Water: The Exhibition, open March 12 at the Royal Ontario Museum. Water is described as a dramatic sensory and educational experience for visitors of all ages. Featuring multimedia installations, hands-on exhibits, live animals and cultural artifacts, it will be displayed in the Garfield Weston Exhibition Hall on Level B2 of the Michael Lee-Chin Crystal until Sept. 5.

-- Les Brasseurs du Temps, in Gatineau, Que., has added a regional brewing heritage museum focusing on the importance of the brewing industry to the border city. Visit brasseursdutemps.com and click on English.

-- Jucy Rentals, a New Zealand company better known for renting compact campervans, has opened its first hotel in downtown Auckland. Photos on its website, jucyhotel.com, suggest guestrooms are fairly spartan. But they have TV and tea/coffee-making equipment, and price is right -- starting at $49 NZ (about $38) per night for a room with shared bathroom, or $89 NZ (about $69) for an ensuite room.

Traveller's tip

Winter means off-season deals at many of Ontario's inns and spas. A family member and her partner enjoyed two nights at the Kettle Creek Inn in Port Stanley just before Christmas. The dining packages are particularly attractive, and the inn has a reputation for good food. Visit kettlecreekinn.com.

denglishtravel@gmail.com

Understanding Rome’s new hotel tax

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

48 hours in Damascus

The ancient capital of Syria, in the words of Syrian film director Nabil al-Maleh, is one of the last cities on the planet where most problems are solved with a smile. Reuters correspondents with local knowledge help visitors get the most from a short stay in a city of culture, conquest and intrigue.

FRIDAY

6 p.m. Ignore new districts and head to the old city. The decaying grandeur is guaranteed to grow on you, although several Arab courtyard houses with carved wooden ceilings, stone-inlaid ornaments and citrus trees have been restored and converted into boutique hotels. Beit Zaman is a tastefully restored structure with reasonable rates (beit-zaman.com).

The 17th century Beit al-Mamlouka (www.almamlouka.com) near Bab Tuma was among the first to be converted into a hotel and has a cozy bar, while Talisman (www.hoteltalisman.net) in the Jewish quarter raised eyebrows by building a swimming pool in the main courtyard. For an exquisite example of Damascene architecture, visit the Danish Institute (www.damaskus.dk/index.php?id=2) but beware that opening hours are tight.

9 p.m. Hungry? Laila's (+963119456) opposite the 8th century Umayyad Mosque has a magnificent view of one of Islam's holiest sites. Entrees, such as eggplant fatte, are typically Damascene. Made from broken bread, garlic, yoghurt and butter, fatte is not for the fainthearted. Cherry kebab on the menu comes from the northern city of Aleppo, whose rivalry with Damascus is historic. Other options are the Illiyeh restaurant in Qeimariyeh quarter. Halabi (+963113391000) at the Four Seasons is pricey but the Aleppan food there is good.

11 p.m. Check out the nightlife. Marmar in Bab Tuma blasts Arab and Western tunes and owner Munther Kubba likes to mix with the crowd. An Arabic band plays at Laterna on May 29 Street. Piano Bar in Bab Sharqi has Karaoke every night. For a late drink try Oxygen in Qeimariyeh, which gained a bit of local notoriety for throwing out the U.S. consul a few years ago.

1 a.m. If you still have the energy, take a cab to Qasioun mountain for a view of the lit city below. Stalls on the uppermost roads sell coffee and grilled corn. Ahla Taleh restaurant has the best view, but prices carry a premium.

SATURDAY

9 a.m. After a hedonistic night, culture is due. Grab a houmous and meat breakfast at Sham Palace hotel, which should provide enough energy for the tour ahead.

10 a.m. There is no better place to start than the National Museum. Syria was the crossroads of the ancient world and the museum's collection spans pre-history, the Bronze Age sites of Ugarit and Mari, the Roman Empire and the trading oasis of Palmyra, as well as Islamic art. Don't miss the Palmyran tomb or the Dora Europes synagogue, which was transferred from its original site on the shores of the Euphrates.

12 p.m. Cross the street to Takiya Suliemaniyah, designed by the famed Ottoman architect Sinan, and bask in the tranquil simplicity of the mosque's black and white facade. The site is being renovated so entry may be tricky. Stroll through the military museum and craft market to find the obligatory gifts for the folks back home.

1.00 p.m. Lunchtime, but you may want to make it quick since there is a lot more to see. Isthtar at the intersection of Qishleh and Straight Street has sidewalk tables and serves very cold beer. Turkish coffee is made with the right dose of sugar, at Havana Cafe near Youssef al-Azmeh square, where Syria's late President Hafez al-Assad, plotted his 1970 coup.

3 p.m. We're back in the old city and the Umayyad Mosque is a must. Its dome, rebuilt after a 19th century fire, looks like a German military helmet. Two heads are thought to be buried inside -- John the Baptist and Imam Hussein, the Prophet Mohammed's grandson, who was killed by a rival Muslim force in the 680 A.D. battle of Kerbala in Iraq. Next door is the tomb of Saladin, who liberated Jerusalem from the crusaders. A coffin donated by Kaiser Wilhelm was never used and sits next to the original. For magnificent Islamic architecture, visit the tomb of the Mamluk Sultan Baibars, who defeated the Mongols.

5 p.m. Negotiate your way into the Damascus citadel, which was the seat of government for successive rulers who invaded the city. The citadel was closed to the public for almost 1,000 years, but is now semi-open. See where Saladin lived and check out the traces of Mongol arrowheads on the double walls. A French mason captured during the crusades spent his captivity here making stones, some of which still bear his signature.

7 p.m. No trip to Damascus is complete without handmade ice cream with Arabic gum and pistachio from the 1898 landmark shop of Bikdash in Hamidiyeh souk. Damascene sweets are renowned and Samiramis (www.samiramispastries.com) in the Shalan district can barely keep up with demand. For famous Aleppan pistachios try al-Birakdar al-Asel on Straight street. Stretch your legs at al-Nofara cafe, next to the Umayyad mosque, which is popular with tourists and Damascenes alike. A tradition of fresh juice lives on in Damascus and Abu Ahmad next door squeezes a huge orange juice glass for about 25 U.S. cents.

9 p.m. A bath is in order. Hammam Nureddine Zinki in Asrounieh is the oldest bath open to the public. A scrub followed by tea at Hammam Bakri in Bab Tuma is relaxing.

10 p.m. For dinner, try Narenj (+963 11 5413444) opposite the Meiramiyeh church.

11.00 More nightlife, and this time it is the Zee Bar at Umayyad Hotel on Brazil Street. The music is loud, the crowd has its share of nouveaux riches and the level of hedonism is high.

1 a.m. After clubbing in summer time do what Damascenes do. Have cactus fruit at the late night stalls on Maliki square and do not hesitate to eat the seeds.

SUNDAY

9 a.m. It is your last day in Damascus with plenty left to see, but don't panic. Grab a zatar mankoshe, an olive oil and thyme mix pie, from any bakery and head out.

10 a.m. No tour is complete without seeing the local houses up close. Among the most impressive is the home of Syrian statesman Khaled al-Azem, who died in exile in Lebanon in 1960s. Azem's house, now a government document center, survived the razing of the historic district of Souq Saroujeh. Pay the small fee and see how Syrian aristocracy lived. Foreign nationals have been moving into the old city and helping to rescue it from collapse. Knock and many will gladly show you the inside of their homes.

1 p.m. Lunch at Beit Jabri, for an unassuming atmosphere, or at Elissar in Bab Tuma. For Turkish cuisine -- Damascus was a favorite city of the Ottomans -- try Marmara (+963113333573) in Abu Rummaneh outside the old city.

3 p.m. From now on it is time to shop 'til you drop. Damascene dealers boast what they describe as the most interesting collection of antique carpets and rugs this side of Persia. Yasser (+963115423229) near Nofara specializes in kilims from the Kurdish area of Ifrin in northern Syria, which were on the cover of Hali, the international carpet magazine, last year. Issam al-Laham (+963112224147) off Hamidiyeh Souk is one of the city's seasoned dealers. Samir & Khaldoun (+963115445718) in Qeimariyeh are sharp and friendly. For antiques, try Abu Jassem (+963 933 302063) who operates out of an apartment in Rukn al-Din district. A few shops in souk al-Khayatine say that they still sell original Damascene cloth, including Hishan Jawdat akl-Nukta (+963112218287). Whether it is hand-made is debatable. The Khan (antiquekhan.com/) on Straight Street has textiles and does its own scented soap, while Anat near Bab Sharki (www.anat-sy.org/) has intricate material and has been a force in reviving Syria's textile tradition.

7 p.m. Catch up on Syrian art before leaving. The treasures of Syria have been skyrocketing in price, with criticism flying that an artificial market has been born. Al-Khoury (+963115440204) on Straight street has more affordable works, and not many galleries can beat Kozah (www.kozah.com) for the setting. For the latest exhibitions check out the Damascus Cultural Diary (+963955210929, diary@meica.org for copies).

Walker makes high-wire record at Bird’s Nest

World's top 10 good luck symbols

Stumbled across an indentation in a stone slab or a shiny spot on a bronze relief on your travels? That's a sign you've found a local symbol of good luck.

Travel website VirtualTourist.com has compiled a list of "Ten Great Good Luck Symbols" around the world to help the superstitious tourist. Reuters has not endorsed this list:

1. Statue of Juliet, Casa di Guilietta; Verona, Italy

Shakespeare must be rolling in his grave over this one. Visitors to the tragic heroine's statue rub her right breast in the quest for good luck. The truly romantic also leave love letters on the walls of her house.

2. Van Mieu (Temple of Literature); Hanoi, Vietnam

In a long-standing tradition, students with pending exams come here to touch the heads of the courtyard's 82 tortoises for luck. The pupils in this area must have extraordinarily high grade point averages as the stone heads of the tortoises have become virtually soft from the repeated touching.

3. St. John of Nepomuk Statue; Prague, Czech Republic

The rules for this one are a little complicated but for the very superstitious it's worth the effort. Touching the reliefs on the statue of St. John of Nepomuk is said to bring good luck, but if you want good fortune that's a little more specific, walk a few steps toward Old Town and find the cross with five stars on the left parapet of the bridge. Touch each of the five stars with a finger and rest your left palm on the cross and make your wish!

4. Rock of Luck; Kusu Island, Singapore

Visitors to this oddly shaped, bright yellow monument will notice a plethora of four-digit numbers written all over its surface. For those unfamiliar with the Singapore lottery, these are "picks." Believers have defaced this rock in the hopes of becoming rich.

5. Worther-See-Mandl; Klagenfurt, Austria

Legend has it that in an effort to remind a group of late night partiers that Easter was the next day, this little guy uncorked a barrel of water and in so doing, created Lake Wrthersee. In spite of this somewhat daunting story, visitors today come here to rub his outstretched finger for good luck.

6. Toritos de Pucara; Cusco, Peru

Those who find themselves in residential areas of Cusco will undoubtedly notice the profusion of somewhat goofy-looking ceramic bulls that sit on the roofs of area homes. In spite of their frightened, bug-eyed expressions and often outstretched tongues, people here take their powers of sending good fortune very seriously.

7. Charging Bull; New York City, New York

Someone forgot to tell the person who started this tradition that the expression is "Take the bull by the horns" not something else. While Wall Street has been an exceptionally unlucky place to be lately, it's said that touching the private parts of this bull will bring good luck.

8. La Chouette; Dijon, France

Although Dijon is associated more with its mustard than its good luck symbols, the town's beloved owl is thought to bring such good luck that it's nearly rubbed out. Carved into the wall of a centuries-old church, the figure is said to bring luck to those who touch it with their left hand.

9. Magellan Statue; Puenta Arenas, Chile

Although clearly taken seriously by many, this tradition feels a little like something drummed up by an office of tourism. Those who rub the foot of the Pantagon man who sits at the base of this statue are said to be sure to return to the area.

10. Grgur Ninski Staute; Split, Croatia

Measuring over 20 feet in height, this enormous statue is a source of great pride for the Croatian people. Depicting Bishop Grgur of Nin who fought to retain the right of the Croatian people to hold religious services in their own language, the statue is thought to bring good luck to those who rub its big toe.

Obama’s memories of Jakarta

Jesse Ventura sues over airport search

Wrestler-turned-politician Jesse Ventura is taking legal action against U.S. transport authorities after enduring a "humiliating" security search at an airport.

The former Minnesota Governor is suing officials at the Transportation Security Administration (TSA) and the Department of Homeland Security, alleging his rights were violated when he was patted down at an airport in November.

In his lawsuit, the WWF star maintains he was subjected to "humiliation and degradation through unwanted touching, gripping and rubbing of the intimate areas of his body" during the search.

Ventura wants a Minnesota federal judge to order bosses to cease their "warrantless and suspicionless" security measures and names Homeland Security Secretary Janet Napolitano and TSA Administrator John Pistole as defendants, according to GossipCop.com.


Pearson airport voted worst in Canada

Scots cheer Burns with letter, museum

Scots around the world celebrate the birthday of their national bard on Tuesday with the discovery of an unpublished letter from the poet Robert Burns, a new museum dedicated to him and a new poet laureate.

Ahead of the festivities marking Burns' birth on January 25, 1795, Scotland honored one of its 21st century literary stars by appointing Liz Lochhead as its new Makar, or poet laureate.

Lochhead, 63, a distinguished poet and playwright, succeeds the nation's first Makar, Edwin Morgan, who died last year.

"I accept it on behalf of poetry itself, which is, and always has been, the core of our culture, and in grateful recognition of the truth that poetry...matters deeply to ordinary Scottish people everywhere," Lochhead said.

Her first official duty was to open a Burns museum at his hometown of Alloway in southwest Scotland this month.

Burns was born in his family's humble farming cottage at Alloway, now part of a new 21 million pound ($33.59 million) museum dedicated to the bard, who died aged only 37 in 1796.

But he became an integral part of the intellectual swelling of the Scottish Enlightenment, and his wit and humor, melancholy, love of life and the lassies along with his radical views in support of common folk caught the imagination of readers around the world.

Those hosting the traditional Burns Night dinner with haggis, bagpipes, whisky and speeches will have some new material to add to the annual toast to the "Immortal Memory" (of Robert Burns) with the discovery of a 200-year-old letter from the bard to one of his supporters.

The rare unpublished letter by Burns was discovered by a staff member at Floors Castle, home of Guy Innes-Ker, 10th Duke of Roxburghe, in the Scottish borders, in an album that had come into the possession of the 6th Duke in the 19th century.

The letter, dated May 13, 1789, was addressed to James Gregory, then head of Edinburgh University's medical school, and contained the first draft of a poem "On Seeing a Wounded Hare."

Burns thanked Gregory for his support and invited his comments and criticism of the poem and to "mark faulty lines with your pencil." The poem was first printed in 1793.

Burns produced a copious amount of verse, including some of the most beautiful love poetry in the language. He also penned one of the world's best-known songs of fellowship and remembrance in "Auld Lang Syne."

The Alloway museum includes 5,000 historic artifacts, manuscripts and memorabilia. Walkways connect the Alloway sites, including the Auld Brig o' Doon, made famous in the Burns poem "Tam O'Shanter."

Honouring a famous Dutch drink

Sunday, January 23, 2011

Ideal islands for families

The terms "family vacation" and "relaxation" don't always mesh.

Children have a habit of keeping harried parents constantly on the go, and it doesn't stop while on vacation, no matter how warm and sunny. Somehow the next three destinations have figured out a gold-plated formula: How to keep kids and teens entertained while also helping parents relax!

Ocho Rios, Jamaica

Action can be non-stop on the beaches of Ocho Rios -- swimming, sailing, para-sailing. And there's a slew of all-inclusive, family friendly resorts just outside of town. But it's the day trip to nearby Dunn's River Falls that's a keeper for kids' memories forever: A climb up a 183-metre tropical waterfall made possible by all-natural, all-beautiful travertine rock steps.

The water is cool, swift and amazingly clear as it jets rapidly toward the Caribbean Sea. The sound alone is enough to calm a harried parent. Ocho Rios activities also include tubing along clean, gentle streams through mountainous Jamaican terrain and horseback riding on empty stretches of beach.

Where to stay: The most relaxing for parents just may be the newly renovated Beaches Boscobel Resort & Golf Club in Ocho Rios. Beaches has a firm handle on keeping kids engaged no matter the age: pools and waterparks galore, plasma TVs, 18-and-under nightclubs, Xbox 360 Game Garages and frequent visits from Sesame Street's Elmo, Bert and Ernie -- they even read bedtime stories. But there's also a lot for parents to enjoy, including yummy food, impressive wines, nanny services and cushy poolside cushions. See beaches.com.

Barbados

The Caribbean island of Barbados is 267 square km of absolute tropical luxury. The blue vibrancy of the water is enough of a fix for a mom's worth of winter family stress. But Barbados has oodles of fun attractions for kids as well.

Top of list: Barbados Wildlife Reserve, known locally as the animal kingdom of Barbados. Most memorable are the monkeys -- many a weird greenish colour and full of four-year-old-boy-style vim and vigour. Your kids will also remember their encounters with the deer, armadillos, turtles, pythons and iguanas. Harrison's Cave is another family hotspot -- 2.3 km of networked caves, including the 15-metre-high Great Hall full of stalagmites and stalactites. Also fun: Surfing Barbados waves or swimming with the sea turtles.

Where to stay: Anywhere along the island's west coast in St. James Parish. Here the sea and landscapes are not only beautiful, but the beaches and surf are more gentle -- ideal for little ones swimming. Barbados has a mature selection of family hotels and resorts. It's also full of self-sufficient apartment and condo rentals. Try Vacation Rentals by Owner: vrbo.com.

Kaua'i, Hawaii

There's a reason rich folk like Oprah hunker down on this remote Pacific isle for some R&R: It's possible. Far from the maddening crowds of Oahu and Maui, the Hawaiian island of Kaua'i is paradise family style: lush landscapes, pretty crescent beaches, rolling blue sea, zero freeways and loads of quiet -- that's for the parents. For the kids, Kaua'i has something very hot-yet-cool: a keen surfing vibe. Surfers are everywhere -- on nearly every beach you visit. And surfing schools are everywhere, too -- local surfers are often looking to earn extra cash. They say the gentle surf of Kaua'i is ideal for beginners. If surfing isn't enough to keep your kids engaged, paddle boarding -- a hot new, gentle craze -- on one of Kaua'i's quiet streams will. And then there's the Puka Dogs, oddly delicious Hawaiian-style hot dog available only on Oahu and Kaua'i.

Where to stay: Outrigger's Kiahuna Plantation in Poipu, Kaua'i is as family friendly as they come. The self-sufficient condos with lush views of gardens, ocean and beach have access to one of the best learn-to-surf spots on the island. See outrigger.com.

loriknowles.com

Hawaii’s got your heart

Britain's quirky architectural fantasy

Portmeirion has to be one of the oddest places in Britain, a kingdom generously endowed with quirky spots.

Variously described as a tourist village and an architectural fantasy, it was the brainchild of architect Clough William Ellis. He bought a peninsula on the coast of Snowdonia, in north Wales, in 1925 and spent the next half-century designing more than 40 buildings and importing parts of others. These decorate a ravine with massive rock outcrops. Adjoining it are a garden and woods filled with rhododendrons and exotic plants and trees.

The result has been likened to a Mediterranean village. But even Mediterranean villages have plain-looking buildings, a description that applies to few of Portmeirion's structures, which include a bell tower, an octagonal domed building called the Pantheon, gatehouses, two buildings that straddle driveways, a pavilion, a piazza with statuary and sculpted shrubs, a lighthouse, an observatory tower, even a triumphal arch.

Although they may not look it, most are houses and cottages containing self-catering accommodation that can be rented.

Noel Coward wrote Blithe Spirit while staying in one of them, called Fountain, in 1941.

There are also two hotels. One -- called Y Gwesty -- is a former summer home facing the coast that was built in 1850. The other, Castell Deudraeth, a restored mansion, opened in 2001.

The architectural styles are all over the map -- Classical, Gothic, Palladian -- and the colours are strong -- raspberry, peach, turquoise, ochre, yellow, blue. They're the original shades, and can't be changed because virtually all the buildings are Grade 2 in Britain's Listed Buildings System.

You can't take in all of Portmeirion in one visit. I had been there before and kept running across things I missed the first time.

Like the 17th-century plaster ceiling in the town hall that once adorned a stately home some distance away. Ellis bought it at auction and had it, and parts of the mansion, transported to Portmeirion and reassembled.

Or the Bristol colonnade, hundreds of tons of masonry brought in pieces more than 300 km by road and put back together like a giant jigsaw puzzle.

Or the gilded statues of Burmese dancers atop Ionic columns and the smiling Buddha from the set of the movie Inn of Sixth Happiness, filmed nearby.

"You see something different every time you come here," our Welsh guide told us.

In Britain, Portmeirion is probably best known as the setting of the 1960s TV series The Prisoner. Starring Patrick McGoohan as a recently resigned secret agent who has been kidnapped and taken to a place called The Village, it became a cult classic.

Fans visit Portmeirion every year to dress as series characters and be chased along the seafront by huge balloons similar to ones used in the show to prevent McGoohan's character from escaping. The next Prisoner convention runs April 8-10.

Portmeirion is open daily except Christmas. For details, see portmeirion.com.

denglishtravel@gmail.com

Disney Fantasy to sail next spring

Thursday, January 13, 2011

48 hours in Riyadh

Saudi Arabia's capital Riyadh is a growing city of over four million, combining the flair of a financial centre with a traditional desert lifestyle as it is home to one of the biggest Arab camel markets.

The desert city is a showcase of the kingdom's struggle to balance modernization while preserving its conservative Muslim traditions. Many elegant shopping malls and restaurants have sprung up but cinemas, bars and even water pipes are banned -- and don't even think about getting an alcoholic drink in Riyadh.

Reuters correspondents with local knowledge help visitors get the most out of a two-day visit. The weekend in Saudi Arabia is on Thursday and Friday. Shops close during prayer times, and on Friday only open after five in the afternoon.

With sights scattered around we recommend renting a car -- a cheap alternative to taxis with a car costing as little as $20 a day. Plenty of rental firms are located in the central Olaya street. Most historical sights have road signs in English.

THURSDAY

10 a.m. - Start your exploration with a visit to the National Museum and the few remains of the old city. The museum showcases the history of the Arabian Peninsula and the kingdom's history -- all displays are in English.

It's open every day but best to call the tourist hotline (01 402 9500) as the museum has special family visiting times during which single men may be banned from entry.

The National Museum is in the old city where you will still find some old mud houses or remains of the city wall from the pre-oil era when Riyadh was just a small dusty town.

Next door is the Murabba Palace (Qasr al-Murabba) built by state founder Abdul-Aziz Ibn Saud where you can see the first royal Rolls Royce.

Afterwards take a taxi to nearby Masmak Fort which Ibn Saud captured in 1902.

If you want to walk, you'll find an interesting place on your way on the left after the second traffic light -- a cemetery in line with the austere Saudi version of Sunni Islam shunning any veneration of tombs. It's just a rough field with unmarked stones of various sizes in total disorder.

3 p.m. - It's lunch time

Take a taxi to the landmark Faisaliah Tower and go to the food court upstairs where you will find plenty of inexpensive restaurants and cafes. You'll get a feel for Saudi social life -- the place is a main meeting point for teenagers who are strictly segregated by gender in different sections.

5 p.m. - How about a visit to the camel market? Take a taxi or drive toward Dammam where you'll find hundreds of camels kept in stables in a desert field outside the city where they are also auctioned off.

The market is loud and not a place for the faint-hearted. After the auctions, herders use canes to drive the camels into pick-up trucks for shipping.

FRIDAY

9 a.m - 6 p.m. - The call to prayer will be ringing out across the city at prayer times and most malls are closed until after 5 p.m., so it's a good opportunity to visit nearby Dir'iyah and see the ancestral home of the al Saud family.

A quiet oasis just outside Riyadh, the village with its palm trees, traditional mud houses and historic guard towers is a welcome change from the bustling capital and gives you an idea how desert life was in the pre-oil era.

The government is currently refurbishing the old settlement which was the first capital of the ruling family, but you can see many old houses outside the construction site.

Parts of the old village wall have already been restored next to the visitor's centre showing pictures and maps.

To get there follow the airport road where you will see brown signs guiding you to Dir'iyah, a mere 25-minute drive.

8 p.m. - It's dinner time!

Why not try one of the fancy restaurants in Riyadh's Kingdom Tower? The city's tallest building is home to the empire of Saudi royal and billionaire Prince Alwaleed bin Talal.

The best choice is Spazio 77 (www.spazio77.com) which offers excellent Italian cuisine and spectacular views from the 77th floor. A bit less glamorous is The Grill at the Four Seasons (01 211 5000) which is also located in the Kingdom Tower. Great steaks and burgers.

Shishas, or water pipes, are not allowed in Riyadh due to religious opposition but if you fancy smoking one after dinner to cap off your stay, drive up from Kingdom Tower to the airport road and then follow signs to Dammam.

After some 8-10 km you will find on the left side of the road a cluster of brightly illuminated cubicle shisha cafes. Sit back and contemplate your visit with a puff or two of flavoured tobacco.

Saudi Arabia opens doors to pilgrims

Top 10 ski destinations

For travellers who embrace the snow with sheer dedication, winter is a time to take advantage of all the fresh powder on the ski slopes. Travel website Cheapflights.com offers powder hounds its choices for the top 10 ski destinations. Reuters has not endorsed this list:

1. Park City, Utah

Just south of Salt Lake City, Park City is no little sibling when it comes to drawing tourists. Famous for hosting the Sundance Film Festival each year, it's also home to serious alpine skiing. Six mountains and 114 trails give cold weather adventurers plenty of room to roam, and other mountain activities like tubing and an alpine coaster won't disappoint. Its dining and apres ski options aren't half bad, either.

2. Whistler, British Columbia

Alpine skiing and mountain biking are big at Whistler Blackcomb, which is consistently voted a top ski destination each year. Whistler hosted most of the 2010 Winter Olympics' alpine, Nordic, skeleton and bobsled events, so if you're ready to claim your glory on the slopes, head to the world-renowned Whistler to try your hand at these great heights. But watch out for the bears -- the fuzzy friends in Whistler have been known to open even locked car doors for a snack.

3. Zermatt, Switzerland

Just near the border of Italy, situated in the Swiss Alps at the southern end of Matter Valley, Zermatt is a prime starting point for explorers who take the Haute Route to Chamonix and the Patrouille des Glaciers. You can also get an international lift pass that allows you ski on the Italian side of the border in Cervinia. Skiing inside Zermatt gets divided up into four areas known as Sunnegga, Gornergrat, Klein Matterhorn and Schwarzsee, each characterized by its own unique traits. Another distinct note about Zermatt -- you can ski here in the summer.

4. Val d'Isere, France

In southeastern France, on the border of the Vanoise National Park, sits Val d'Isere. Diverse in its level of difficulty, the ski haven welcomes visitors from all over the world to explore its downhill slopes and outstanding culture. Its lively slopes cater perfectly to its even livelier nightlife, and making the transition between the two is made easy. A free shuttle between the towns of Val d'Isere and La Daille runs every five minutes during the day, and every 30 minutes at night. The area also shares ski domain with Tignes.

5. Verbier, Switzerland

Often known as some of the most challenging skiing in the Alps, Verbier offers nothing short of exhilaration. Located in a high and sunny spot, this beautiful area can be downright intimidating, especially on something like its black run down the front face of Mont-Fort. Classic runs, like the unmarked route from Col des Gentianes and Mont Gele are notables.

6. Chamonix, France

Sitting right under Europe's highest mountain, Mont Blanc, Chamonix has a wide range of intermediate and advanced skiing options. Known as the extreme free-riding capital of Europe, it's also a hot spot for snowboarders as well. Once the day of downhill fun comes to a close, gear up for its dynamic town filled with more than 100 restaurants and bars.

7. St. Anton, Austria

Holding its head high with a glamorous reputation, St. Anton is no one-trick pony. Beyond its glitzy facade, it brings the thrills with world-class skiing, fantastic powder and lots of unmarked trails. Experts enjoy steep drops like that of Zura and the challenging powder bowls of the Valluga. Beginners find their own excitement on the lesser-demanding slopes, or can head to the neighbouring resort of Lech, just a bus ride away and skiable on the same lift pass.

8. Vail, Colorado

Time after time, Vail is classified as one of the finest ski resorts in the world. Its seven Back Bowls and exceptional powder draw expert skiers from around the globe. Due to the mountain's size, there is plenty to do for beginners, regulars and veterans - the only problem is that most skiers run out of vacation time before they can truly explore the entire mountainous layout.

9. Banff, Alberta

Breathtaking scenery may be Banff's claim to fame, but its recognition goes much further than glittery aesthetics. With a long ski season, light and dry snow, fantastic facilities and three major resort areas, skiing in Banff is a pleasure. Settled in the Canadian Rockies, the unspoiled area is home to nature's elks and moose, among other creatures -- and partnering with its home-grown beauty comes its lavish and luxurious accommodations: The resort area crawls with five-star hotels to welcome tired skiers after a long day on the slopes.

10. Jackson Hole, Wyoming

Beginners beware, this is expert territory. Set in the Grand Teton Mountains, Jackson Hole adds a little attitude with its altitude -- offering up steep runs, deep powder and narrow chutes. A few outstanding parts include the Cheyenne, Tensleep and Laramie Bowls, and more challenges are just a shuttle-ride away in Grand Targhee.

Thousands flock to B.C. salmon run

Monday, January 10, 2011

A little island with a big history

Don't tell Cape Bretoners there are just two official languages in Canada. For many of them, there's a third: Gaelic.

No surprise when you consider this unique part of Nova Scotia is the self-styled Celtic Heart of North America.

It's a living history dating from the 1770s when people from the Highlands and Western Isles of Scotland began emigrating to Nova Scotia. In Cape Breton, they found a landscape mirroring their misty-mountained homeland.

Their descendants keep the culture alive. Road signs in the western region are in Gaelic and English; Gaelic language classes are held in many communities; some radio stations have Celtic programming; there is an international Celtic Colours festival each October; a Gaelic arts and crafts college; a single malt Scotch whisky distillery; and a Highland village detailing life over a span of 150 years, from 1770 to 1920.

The village is located near the community of Iona, smack-dab in the middle of the island overlooking Bras d'Or Lake, which cleaves Cape Breton in two.

It is a time tunnel trek meandering through five generations of settlers -- their homes, their work, their worship -- beginning with a traditional "Black House," which ordinary folk would have lived in before crossing the ocean, a dry stone-wall structure with wooden rafters covered with a thatch of turf. The floor was generally packed earth and there was a central hearth for the peat-fuelled fire. There was no chimney for the smoke to escape though; instead it sootily seeped its way through the roof, hence the term "black."

But in Cape Breton, the newcomers found forests aplenty and quickly switched to log cabins and then more substantial homes built of planed lumber and with fireplaces in the middle, about as close to central heating as you could get in the mid-1800s.

The reconstructed village also includes a schoolhouse, general store, carding mill, the Malagawatch church originally built (1874) to serve the staunchly Presbyterian settlers, and some representative livestock including a trio of ginger-haired Highland cattle named Pam, Mooka and Alice as well as a small herd of rare Soay sheep, a hardy, fine-fleeced breed originating in the remote St. Kilda archipelago, about 65 km from the Western Isles.

Costumed staff, some conversing in Gaelic, are stationed at many of the buildings, including the forge where a willing blacksmith pounded out a 4.4-cm iron nail from scratch in three minutes.

The Scottish connection is evident in myriad Cape Breton place names, including Dunvegan, a west coast Ceilidh Trail community.

There are four other theme-named highway routes: The Cabot (as in explorer John Cabot) Trail in the northwestern highlands; the Fleur-de-Lis Trail in the Acadian southeast; the northeast (Guglielmo) Marconi Trail, centred on Sydney, and honouring the Italian inventor's transatlantic wireless station built near Glace Bay in 1902; and the Bras d'Or scenic drive, which encircles the mid-island lake on lesser-travelled routes bordered by swaths of pink and mauve lupins and yellow hawkweed.

HISTORIC SITE

If Marconi was the Wizard of Wireless, Alexander Graham Bell could be easily be called The Great One.

The Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site at Baddeck pays tribute to Scottish-born Bell, not just because he invented the telephone (1876), but for various far-sighted pursuits including aviation (the 1909 Silver Dart, Canada's first airplane flight) and hydrofoils (a world record 114 km/h by the HD-4 in 1919), not even considering his work with, among other things, tetrahedron kites, X-rays, desalinization and sheep breeding -- all to the detriment of his one-time dream of becoming a concert pianist.

One tale told by a Parks Canada interpreter at the Baddeck centre (expect to spend two hours there, and bring the kids) relates how Bell and some associates spent several hours one day dropping cats (onto a mattress) from a height of 2.5 metres to confirm they always landed on their feet.

And yes, here too there's a Gaelic connection: The inventor's home overlooking Baddeck for most of the last 35 years of his life is called Beinn Breagh, meaning "beautiful mountain" and it's where the innovative scientist and engineer is buried.

V CAPE BRETON MORE INFORMATION

See the following websites for travel ideas and details on visiting: highlandvillage.ca celticheart.ca pc.gc.ca/bell pc.gc.ca/louisbourg cbisland.com

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UK tourists have to wait for wax Kate

She may marry into Britain's royal family in April, but Prince William's fiancee Kate Middleton will not take her place alongside the royals at Madame Tussauds until later in 2011.

The London wax sculpture museum said it will try to book a sitting with Middleton after her wedding on April 29 and it would then take sculptors up to four months to make the model, the BBC reported on its website.

The museum was also waiting to hear if Middleton would donate an outfit for the waxwork.

Britain's Queen Elizabeth, her husband Prince Phillip and heir-to-the-throne Prince Charles as well as his wife Camilla and his sons William and Harry are already cast in wax at the popular stop on London's tourist trail.

"It looks likely it will be shortly after the wedding and then it takes four months to complete," a spokeswoman for Madame Tussauds said. "I imagine the sculptors will probably go to her and the sitting normally takes a couple of hours."

Middleton's waxwork look will depend on what she wants and whether she can donate clothing.

Rockin’ view of Manhattan