He had a point. All over South America, for example, many of the statues in public places seem to be dedicated to war heroes of one ilk or another. Cilloniz' observation may have been true when it was written, but not anymore, at least, not in Lima.
Just make your way to Parque del Amor (Love Park) in Miraflores where the focal point is an enormous sculpture of a couple embracing. El Beso, (The Kiss) by Peruvian artist Victor Delfin, is a popular gathering place, especially on St. Valentine's Day, which is coming on Sunday. Couples have been known to compete for the longest kiss beneath the statue, which sits atop a pedestal.
The park, said to be influenced by Gaudi's Park Guell in Barcelona, is located on the cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Colourful mosaic walls and benches are inscribed with more than a dozen quotes in Spanish on the topic of love and romance. Some couples like to visit in time for the sunset off the shoreline.
"I used to come here a lot with my girlfriend in the good old days," reminisced Miguel Arce, a guide with Condor Travel. "We liked to sit by the ocean."
The Kiss is not the only statue in Lima dedicated to lovers. A few kilometres south of Love Park are a few more sculptures of a young couple in love. These statues are more realistic and conservative in style and, some would say, less grotesque than The Kiss.
"At one time the mayor was hoping this area would be another Love Park," explained Arce. But it didn't happen.
Erotic art
Next stop for amorous couples -- the Museo Nacional de Arqueologia, Antropologia e Historia del Peru, where you'll find, among other artifacts, a selection of Moche erotic ceramics. The Moche, who lived along the northern coast from A.D. 200-700, expressed every aspect of daily life in their art.
An even larger collection of Moche art can be found at Museo Arqueologico Rafael Larco Herrera. Though it's located in Pueblo Libre, a bit off the beaten track, it's well worth the effort. In fact, if you only have time for one museum in Lima, this should be near the top of your list.
Housed in an 18th century colonial building, the museum, founded in 1926, has the world's largest private collection of pre-Columbian art, with about 45,000 pieces including ceramics, stonework, fine textiles, jewelry and more. In the "Sala Erotica," you'll find several explicit ceramic works by the Moche including depictions of physical union between humans, animals (such as a jaguar and a toad) and even between the living and the dead! To the Moche, even skeletons had a sexual life.
Unique dining experiences
If the Moche were still around today, they'd likely appreciate the romantic dining options in Lima. Two restaurants serving good Peruvian cuisine in unique settings include La Rosa Nautica in a pavilion that is built on stilts over the sea, and Restaurant Huaca Pucllana, an upscale eatery at the site of a 1,500-year-old adobe pyramid. Eat inside, amid the colonial-style decor, or outside with a view of the pyramid, which is illuminated at night.
Day or night
A horse and carriage ride can be romantic when you're with that special someone. Take a ride through colonial Lima starting at Plaza Mayor (aka Plaza de Armas) in the heart of the city. Note the 17th-century bronze fountain in the centre of the square. The Plaza is bordered by the cathedral (where Conquistador Francisco Pizarro is buried), the Archbishop's Palace with its impressive wooden balcony, and the Government Palace, built in French baroque style, where you can watch the changing of the guard everyday at noon.
How many cities have a Love Park, erotic art, horse and carriage rides, an ocean beach, fine dining, and centuries-old history? No doubt about it, Lima truly is for lovers.
IF YOU GO
TO LIMA, PERU
Condor Travel has several narrated tours of Lima (and beyond). The half-day Lima tour is an excellent introduction to the city and includes a knowledgeable guide and visits to about a dozen top attractions including Love Park, the Plaza Mayor (with a tour of the cathedral), and the Monastery of San Francisco.
A four-hour tour, which runs daily at 9 a.m. and 2 p.m., is about $35. A separate tour (four hours) to the Larco Museum runs daily at 9:15 a.m. and 2:15 p.m. for about $55. See Condortravel.com.
Sonesta Hotel El Olivar, named for the historic Olive Grove Park (which you see on the city tour) across the street, is in a quiet, pleasant neighbourhood of San Isidro. The service is friendly and the rooms are comfortable and luxurious. Frommer's Peru guidebook gives the hotel top marks for value. Check sonestaperu.com.
WRITER@INTERLOG.COM
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