Head for the hills of Lisbon

They call Lisbon the City of Seven Hills for good reason: When we've gone for walks we're almost always going up somewhere or coming down from somewhere.

The inclines may be steep or slight, but two things are sure: Each offers dramatic views and is filled with vibrant life. Maybe a demonstration is getting underway, maybe there's a wedding at an old stone church, maybe a tiny cafe crowd is spilling onto the alleyway. That's what makes Lisbon a lively, even sensual city, one you feel embraced by an hour after arriving.

There's another less known aspect of Lisbon: Its past always lives in its present. Even terrible events -- like Nov. 1, 1755, when 30,000 or more residents perished in what is called The Great Earthquake -- are still there.

"Portuguese speak of it constantly as if it just occurred," says writer Marion Kaplan, who has lived in Lisbon for many years. "They speak of it as a personal experience. In some ways it is."

That is Lisbon's life. It's part of "saudade," the longing for the past, which is never truly past. As you stroll its passageways in the evening, this nostalgic pining is evident in the melancholy songs of fado that float from tiny tavernas.

This time in Lisbon, my wife and I -- joined by our son, his wife and small son -- chose Hotel Tivoli on the main promenade, Avenida da Liberdade. The avenue is 100 metres wide, lined with huge palms and sweeps north for about 1.5 km, in places resembling the grand boulevards of London or Paris.

Hotel Tivoli, opened in 1933, is the dream of a young businessman and a lawyer friend. It's a slightly formal place with a gleaming lobby and courteous staff.

The location is ideal for those who, like us, prefer to be close to what we want to see. It's easy to explore on foot using the three funiculars -- or elevadores -- that take you up the inclines. The main old neighbourhoods with names that are part of the city's vocabulary -- Bairro Alta, the Baixia and the most historic, the Alfama -- are perfect for walking.

It's probably true that of all Lisbon's neighbourhoods, the Alfama is the most enduring. It wasn't destroyed by the Great Earthquake and has some of the city's oldest buildings.

It's worth spending part of a day wandering its streets (called becos) which are the narrowest you may ever walk -- sometimes only 2 metres across. No map can help -- it's a maze atop a maze.

You'll see small artifacts of very old Lisbon, when Alfama was the most stylish of neighbourhoods, and signs of past opulence in the small white and blue azulejos (glazed tiles) created by Arabic Moors or those whose came after them. When the Moors left, Alfama became a neighbourhood of working people, often fishermen and stevedores.

Walk to the grounds of ancient St. George's Castle, where you're at the top of Lisbon's highest hills. A stroll through the castle grounds' olive groves and cork trees is pleasurable.

Make time to stop awhile at Alfama's historic Se, or cathedral, Lisbon's oldest building, contructed in the 12th century. Despite its sombre exterior, it's worth entering to see the historic treasures, including the font where the revered Anthony of Padua, Portugal's patron saint, was baptized soon after it was created so very long ago.

And do return for one last view over the castle wall: The scene below of Lisbon's Alfama is almost beyond spectacular.

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In early 1955, Calouste Gulbenkian lay on his death bed in Lisbon. Born in Turkey of Armenian parents and a Portugal resident since 1942, Gulbenkian was said to be the wealthiest man in the world back then, mainly through oil investment.

But he was also renowned as perhaps the world's foremost art collector. He began collecting as a young man and is said to have spoken one line about his standard as a collector: "Nothing but the best is good enough."

Gulbenkian's acquisitions reveal a man of superb taste as well as great gifts of negotiation. In time he owned 5,000 pieces in every artist's medium, from every period and every culture. His will establishing a charitable foundation, made his treasure available for public viewing.

As someone said of him: "For Portugal he was a treasure of pure gold."

No visit to Lisbon, makes sense without a visit to The Gulbenkian Museum housed in a low building, shaded by park-like landscape on Avenue de Berna and still walkable from our hotel. You could spend days here, seeing so many fine objects of every kind and age. I filled several pages of my notebook with reminders like these: Superb prehistoric funerary statue; a 16th-century painting of a Moorish chimney; incredible etched Greek coins; and European masters by Monet, Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyck and more . It was not our first visit to the Gulbenkian, I truly hope it won't be our last.

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Lisbon, being a place of vibrant life is thereby a place of cafes. Most remain unpretentious family places on narrow alleys, where mother, father, often sons and daughters, have tended to kitchen and table for years, which suits us well.

I walked to one -- Restaurante O Forninho Saloio -- repeatedly with Barbara, our son, daughter-in-law and grandson. The cafe was along a narrow alleyway -- Travessa Das Parreiras -- and had panels of azulejos on its walls, about a dozen tables and customers who were obviously regulars. One told us it was a bakery long ago, until a family bought it about 20 years ago.

Sometimes we had codfish -- a staple the Portuguese call bacalau and claim they can cook 365 ways -- and a couple of times I had a tasty shish kebab. We always had a bottle of wine, deliberately choosing the house offering, which in Portugal is invariably pleasant, gull and smooth, usually from Alentejo, the country's best wine producing region.

One day on the last walk, we came upon a restaurant of such striking decor, we returned later for dinner. It was The Trindade, a cafe on the site of a monastery built eight centuries ago. (In the 1830s, it became a brewery.) Its rooms are large and warm with colour and its artistic wall panels speak of profound history.

"In these rooms," says its official record, "we can safely say there has not been a single day over the past seven centuries, when it has not received visitors ..."

Naturally, in an atmosphere filled with such echoes of Portugual's yesterdays, you'll be reminded one more time of how deeply the past is, indeed, part of the present in Lisbon.

BOTTOM LINE

WHAT'S ON

In June, Lisbon celebrates its saints. At nighttime, festivities take over the historic centre. Neighbourhoods such as Castelo, Mouraria, Graca, Alfama, Ajuda and Bairro Alto are festooned with garlands and the streets are filled with dancing and folk music. The main celebration is dedicated to St. Anthony, the city's patron saint and matchmaker. Festivities peak with a collective wedding ceremony, a folk parade on June 12 and a public holiday -- St. Anthony's Day -- on June 13. Other saints celebrated are St. John (June 23-24) and St. Peter (June 28-29).

PENNY-PINCHER TIP

Lisbon is Western Europe's least expensive capital. Visitors can save even more with a Lisbon Card, which is good for public transporation and free or discounted admission to top attractions. Prices run about $27-$54 for cards good for 24 to 72 hours.

MORE INFORMATION

For details on travelling in Portugal, visit the country's official tourism website, visitportugal.com or call 1-800-767-8842.

Tahiti might be a bargain

Q: My husband and I are newlyweds and haven't taken our honeymoon yet. We are cash-strapped but interested in pursuing any out-of-the-box ideas on how we might be able to enjoy an island honeymoon. One of my fantasies is discovering a secluded spot somewhere in French Polynesia.

-- T. Jackson, Mississauga

A: Polynesia is not generally regarded as a budget destination but this year you may find a great deal. Tahiti Tourism has a North American office (tahiti-tourisme.com or toll-free 1-800-365-4949). From their homepage, look for links to Tahiti travel deals and Tahiti Specialist Locator for a list of travel agents in your area who specialize in Tahiti vacations. Your travel agent may also have the latest info on island deals.

And here's a long shot to explore: French Polynesia has an online video contest called "Invest In Your Love." The prize is a dream trip to French Polynesia. Videos can be submitted to investinyourlove.com and should showcase why the entrant needs an escape to the legendary islands. See the website for full details.

"We want to see everything from romantic and heartwarming -- to fun and offbeat," says Al Keahi, managing director for Tahiti Tourism North America. "Show us why you deserve a vacation to the islands of Tahiti. If you have been to Tahiti before, share your favourite experiences and memories. Be original, be creative and most of all have fun with the videos."

Tahiti Tourism will handle all travel arrangements, including flights with Air Tahiti Nui, inter-island transportation, six nights' deluxe accommodations for two, daily breakfast and dinner.

Q: This swine flu outbreak is really troublesome. I'm scheduled to take a trip to the Caribbean (not Mexico) next month but am now reconsidering. What should I do?

-- G. Gupta, Richmond Hill

A: I can only tell you of my own recent experience. I just returned from Cuba, where airport staff were wearing masks. I encountered no issues with H1N1. I followed the advice of health officials, including:

- Wash your hands frequently or use hand sanitizers or disinfectant wipes especially when leaving public places where you have touched door handles, elevator buttons or handrails.

- Listen to local health advisories.

- Cover your nose and mouth with a tissue when you cough or sneeze. Throw the tissue away after use.

- Avoid touching your eyes, nose or mouth. Germs spread that way.

The Public Health Agency of Canada has updates at 1-800-454-8302 or at phac-aspc.gc.ca/alert-alerte/swine_200904-eng.php.

Cheap countries to visit now

The latest resident of the recession-era bargain bin: a private island in Fiji. Paul De Domenico, a former food industry executive who'd been asking $35 million for his 800-acre slice of paradise, is lowering his price by nearly 20%.

"The good old days are over," says De Domenico, 74. "I'm at the age now where I'm trying to liquidate some assets."

Fortunately for the rest of us, a trip to Fiji can be had without making such a pricey commitment, thanks to a sagging local currency. Though roundtrip airfare will set you back about $1,600, the greenback gained 40% on the Fiji dollar over the past year--which means that once you get there, everything is on sale at a deep discount.

In Depth: 15 Cheap Countries To See In The Recession

Fiji is just one of many places that's suddenly more affordable to American travelers.

Top on our list is Hungary, buoyed both by airfares in the $590 range and a currency that the dollar has gained 30% on over the past year. Sweden, our second-ranked country, offers nearly identical currency perks. The dollar has gained a full 50% on Poland's zloty, meaning that $100 can now get you a $150 hotel room in Warsaw.

On top of the dollar's increased value, Americans will find tremendous deals on rooms as hotels around the world try to entice reluctant visitors.

"Middle-range hotels have definitely been lowering rates," says Michelle Finkelstein, vice president of sales at Our Personal Guest, a San Francisco-based travel agency. "A lot of high-end hotels haven't lowered their rates because it's hard to get them back up. So they've been throwing in free nights and other perks."

Behind the Numbers
To figure out which countries are cheapest to visit in this recession, we looked at all the non-North American currencies against which the U.S. dollar has gained 15% or more over the past year. We then ranked these 28 countries by the dollar's value in local currency, and by airfare. We based the latter on prices from Kayak.com for a roundtrip coach flight from a New York-area airport to each country's capital, departing on Friday, June 12 and returning Sunday, June 21. Ties in the overall rankings were broken by lowest airfare.

Last year, Forbes predicted that the dollar, which had been pummeled by steady rate cuts by the Fed, was poised for recovery--and that high-flying foreign currencies were in for a rude awakening. We suggested that countries like Brazil and Poland would see their currencies drop as the dollar recovered. Indeed, the greenback is up 26% on Brazil's real and 50% on Poland's zloty.

"Our currency has weathered the storm better than many," says Dan O'Neil, executive vice president of futures at OptionsXpress in Chicago. "We've been a lot more proactive in combating the downturn, we're seen as a more dynamic and resilient economy, and the dollar has traditionally been a safe haven currency."

And now, instead of paying exorbitant exchange rates abroad, American travelers are reaping the benefits of a strong dollar.

Iceland on Sale
Of all industrialized nations, Iceland has been perhaps the hardest-hit by the global recession. Starting in 2003, Iceland's financial industry metastasized, growing from a few billion dollars in assets to nearly 50 times that amount by 2008.

Unfortunately for Icelanders, that included a plethora of highly leveraged deals made at the top of the market, much of it in foreign real estate. Unlike the U.S., the island nation of 300,000 had no strong federal safety net to save it when everything came crashing down. The country's stock market is off 95% over the past 12 months.

That's bad news for Iceland, but great news for American travelers, whose dollars are worth 60% more in Iceland than they were a year ago.

"The economic collapse has brought hardship on many people," says Urdur Gunnarsdóttir, spokeswoman for Iceland's Ministry for Foreign Affairs. "But it has made life much easier for tourists, that's for sure."

Though peak nonstop fares from New York to Reykjavik exceed $1,000, midweek fares are often available for less than $600. Once in Iceland's capital, a beer in a swanky downtown bar is about $5; a posh hotel room can be had for $80 or so. It's not exactly cheap, but the dollar goes twice as far in Reykjavik as it does in Europe's cosmopolitan capitals like London and Moscow.

Keep taking discount vacations, and you might just be able to save up enough for an extreme vacation in Sierra Leone, which doesn't make our list but will certainly be affordable--though far from luxurious--upon arrival.

Better yet, you could pack your bags for Fiji--for good.

"It's a really good buy," says De Domenico of his 800-acre, $35 million island. "People pay that much for a condo in Manhattan."

In Depth: 15 Cheap Countries To See In The Recession

 

Disney World on a dime

LAKE BUENA VISTA, Fla. - Disney World has been on our kids' minds this year, but it wasn't in our family budget.

What's a parent to do?

Approach a trip to the Magic Kingdom and the rest of the sprawling Walt Disney World Resort with the same mind-set as the old Midas muffler commercials: I'm not gonna pay a lot for this vacation. It turns out, you really don't have to.

With a disciplined approach to the Big Three expense categories - food, lodging and admission fees - it's possible to "do Disney" without piling up bills that are scarier than The Twilight Zone Tower of Terror (a ride at Disney's Hollywood Studios that left my six-year-old screaming to do it again, and me searching for my stomach).

With a little extra effort and planning, you can even avoid a lot of the killer extras - like US$31 a day to rent a double stroller.

If the economic meltdown has a silver lining, it's evident in the deals to be found in resort areas like Orlando. Disney itself is laying on more discounts and specials for Mouseketeers than travel experts can recall in recent history.

"It's a great time to go," says Bob Sehlinger, author of "The Unofficial Guide to Walt Disney World," which is not affiliated with the resort. "It couldn't be better."

But read no farther if your Disney vacation musts include first-class meals, brand-name Mickey and Minnie souvenirs and staying in the closest hotel to the monorail. This article is for penny-pinchers only.

LODGING: Figure out this piece of the puzzle first, since it will affect your strategy for the others.

Sehlinger's advice on this count is simple: "You're always going to save a lot of money if you stay in a non-Disney property outside of Disney World."

There are hotel discounts galore, thanks to the slow economy, and you can take your pick by shopping websites like http://www.roomsaver.com. Simply by poking around the web, our family of four booked five nights in a sprawling two-bedroom suite at a beautiful new resort for just over US$500 - and we didn't even have to listen to a time-share presentation.

There also is a plethora of fabulous private homes, often with private pools and amenities like home theatres, available to rent at tempting prices. Many are owned by Brits and other foreigners who fly in for weeks at a time and turn their vacation homes over to management companies when they're not around. Sehlinger cites http://www.allstarvacationhomes.com as one particularly user-friendly website. Another site - http://www.vrbo.com - lists homes being offered directly by owners.

If you want to stay at one of the more than 20 Disney owned-and-operated resorts - and they do come with perks such as extended theme park hours, free parking, free airport shuttle and free luggage delivery service - a handful fall into the "value" category. You can even pitch a tent at Disney's Fort Wilderness Resort and Campground, with campsite fees starting at $43 a night.

For most stays between Aug. 16 and Oct. 3, certain Disney resorts are offering a free Disney Dining Plan when you buy a five-night room and theme park package. (The package has to be booked by June 21.) There also some specials for members of the U.S. military.

To find the latest deals, your best bet is to go to Disney World's website - http://disneyworld.disney.go.com/ - and click on the "special offers" tab.

FOOD: Your lodging decision will have a big effect on your food bill: book a private home or a suite with a kitchen, and you can more easily avoid paying amusement-park prices for food. Even a cooler in your hotel room (or the mini-fridge at a discount hotel, where it won't be stocked with overpriced snacks) for OJ, milk and lunch meat can work wonders at cutting breakfast and lunch costs.

The bottom line from Sehlinger: "The more meals that you eat outside of Disney World, the better off you're going to be."

Eat breakfast in your room, or snag one of the many hotel deals that include a continental breakfast.

Head into the theme park with a backpack stuffed with snacks, sandwiches and drinks, and you're good till dinner.

It really can be done: we prowled five theme parks over four days, and spent exactly $8.25 for three ice cream sandwiches.

Everything else came out of the backpack. (Which has the side benefit of allowing you to avoid those snaking food lines.)

Our kids didn't even mind, because we let them eat sugary breakfast cereals and snacks that they don't normally get at home.

One of my favourite moments at the Magic Kingdom was lunch on a picnic table under a shade tree on Tom Sawyer Island.

At dinner time, there are plenty of offsite restaurants to explore - and by then you may well be ready for a theme-park break anyway.

And if you're paying the $12 a day to park at Disney World, you can leave for dinner and come back without an additional parking fee.

For people flying in to Orlando and debating whether to rent a car, says Sehlinger, "the savings that you'll obtain by eating outside of Walt Disney World will probably more than pay for the rental car."

If you do opt to eat at the theme parks, there are a range of restaurants that run the pricing gamut. And Sehlinger says the portions are generous enough that in some cases two people can share an entree and not go away hungry.

ADMISSIONS: This is the toughest nut to crack: nominal discounts are typically the best you can hope for on admission fees at Disney World.

You can score a coup if you time your visit to coincide with someone's birthday: You get in free on your birthday throughout 2009.

There also is a generous deal running for current and retired members of the U.S. military and their families and friends. Check out http://www.disneyworld.com/military.

If you're planning to hit some non-Disney attractions in the area, such as SeaWorld or Universal Orlando studios, discounts may be more plentiful.

The independent website http://www.mousesavers.com compiles one of the best lists around for reputable deals - at Disney and elsewhere.

Because Disney offers all sorts of ticket options - one-to 10-day passes, no-expiration upgrades, annual passes, etc. - it's best to plot out how you plan to spend your time so you don't buy more than you need. In general, the longer you stay, the cheaper the tickets.

The website http://www.touringplans.com, affiliated with Sehlinger's guide book, has a free "least expensive ticket calculator" that will help you figure out the cheapest route.

NOT-SO-LITTLE EXTRAS: You can make all the right moves on the big-ticket items and still spend a small fortune at Disney World if you don't watch the extras.

Rides tend to dump you out in the middle of shops overflowing with tantalizing souvenirs. There's that pricey stroller rental fee. The refrigerator rental fee at Disney resorts. The locker fee at the water parks. Think it all through in advance, and you can hold down the add-ons.

At http://www.DisneyWorldMoms.com, a panel of Disney-wise parents offer tips about budgeting and other matters.

The unofficial Disney online guide at http://www.wdwinfo.com/ has good discussion boards for planning every aspect of your trip, including a "budget board" where you can get tips on everything from where to buy Disney souvenirs to deals on air fare. You can even orchestrate a "stroller swap" with other families - a stroller is donated and passed from one vacation family to the next.

THE BOTTOM LINE: How did my family do with the Midas challenge?

Even Sehlinger was impressed: We spent $200 on gas to drive from Virginia, about $510 on accommodations, and not much more on food than we would have spent at home. We'd paid for our no-expiration theme-park tickets five years earlier (and gotten a AAA discount, of course), so that was no hit at all. And the kids both stuck within their $20 budgets for souvenirs.

Ah, but there was that impulsive $8.25 binge on ice cream. Next time, I promise we'll do better.

Top U.S. beaches

HANALEI, Hawaii - If life is a beach, Hanalei Bay must be heaven.

This remote, three-kilometre crescent-shaped beach on Kauai where the emerald mountains meet the sparkling sea was selected No. 1 on "Dr. Beach" Stephen P. Leatherman's 2009 list of top 10 U.S. beaches, which was released Friday.

Hanalei beat out other shores stretching from San Diego to Cape Cod.

"The sheer beauty of Hanalei Bay is breathtaking," said Leatherman, director of Florida International University's Laboratory for Coastal Research. "It's really an idyllic setting."

Hanalei features postcard views from every angle and is untouched by the feverish development that has transformed the coastlines of other islands. It's cherished by both locals and tourists as the perfect spot to swim, surf, snorkel or simply escape and unwind.

"It's just gorgeous," said Annie Meredith, who regularly surfs in the bay. "You've got green mountains, white sand, blue ocean - that's kind of hard to beat."

The runner-up on Leatherman's list was Siesta Beach in Sarasota, Fla., followed by Coopers Beach in Southampton, N.Y., on Long Island; Coronado Beach in San Diego; Hamoa Beach in Maui, Hawaii; Main Beach in East Hampton, N.Y., on Long Island; Cape Hatteras in Outer Banks, N.C.; Cape Florida State Park in Key Biscayne, Fla.; Coast Guard Beach on Cape Cod, Mass.; and Beachwalker Park on Kiawah Island, S.C.

Leatherman based his selections on 50 criteria, including water quality and temperature, cleanliness, weather, sand, safety and facilities. And Hanalei is his personal favourite "getaway beach" in Hawaii.

"If I want to get away from it all and forget about the rest of the world, Hanalei is about the best place to go, as far as I know," he said.

Hanalei is located on Kauai's North Shore around the corner from the Napali Coast, the most stunning corner of the state. One side offers lush valleys, dramatic waterfalls and sculpted mountains with peaks that rise 1,200 metres. On the other is the Pacific, where dolphins and sea turtles can be seen.

The big attraction here is that it's not a big attraction. Unlike in the high-rise jungle of Waikiki, where thousands of glowing-pale tourists sprawl across the sand like eggs in a carton, there's plenty of breathing room in secluded Hanalei.

Newlyweds Dirk and Courtney McNealy, of Gainesville, Fla., noticed that there were only about 50 people along the entire two miles of beach on a recent weekday.

"Back in Florida, it seems there's 50 people in a 10-foot stretch," Courtney McNealy said.

The McNealys chose the so-called Garden Island for their honeymoon because they wanted a peaceful retreat.

"The water is nice. The sand is nice," Courtney McNealy said. "It's really beautiful."

Duane Kutsch, of Richland, Wash., said he enjoyed the slower pace and the space.

"It doesn't seem so big and commercial like Oahu," he said. "Oahu to me feels like Chicago, a huge city on the edge of the water. This still has a hometown feel to it."

The flight to Kauai from Honolulu takes less than a half hour. The 50-kilometre drive from Lihue Airport to Hanalei, however, takes nearly an hour along two-lane Kuhio Highway. The roadway eventually runs down the mountainside and crosses a one-lane bridge before entering the tiny town of Hanalei.

Egos, shoes and watches should be checked at the bridge. No one's in a hurry in this ultra-mellow community.

The village is a throwback to old Hawaii. There are sprawling plots of taro, which is used to produce poi, a staple in the Hawaiian diet. Neighbourhood kids sell fresh leis on the corner. Gift shops, art galleries, surf stores and casual restaurants line the main drag.

"Most of us who live in the city are used to the hustle and bustle. This is anything but that," Leatherman said. "It's about as laid-back as you can get."

In the winter, swells and rip currents pick up in the bay and lifeguards are kept busy. Hanalei and surrounding areas have several top surf breaks. This is where three-time surfing world champion Andy Irons lives and honed his skills.

Even when the surf is up, parts of the bay are protected by an outer reef, so people can still swim safely. However, visitors should be aware of conditions and posted signs and check with lifeguards.

"Because of the beauty, it's deceiving," said Mark McKamey, who has been a lifeguard in the area for 17 years. "It's paradise so it gives them a false sense of security."

In the summer, the waters flatten out. Locals can be seen throw-net fishing, catching opelu and akule, a Native Hawaiian tradition.

"There's a good vibe overall," said McKamey.

There are three parks within the bay: Black Pot, Hanalei Pavilion and Waioli. Several surfing schools offer two-hour sessions for US$50-$60 and rent gear.

Nestled between two rivers, Hanalei is the largest bay on the island of Kauai.

Leatherman said one of his favourite views of the bay is from the St. Regis Princeville Resort, located on the bluff. The 252-room hotel reopens in October after nearly a year of renovations.

Hanalei first gained fame when the hit musical "South Pacific" was filmed here five decades ago, and it hasn't changed much. The sailors sang "There Is Nothin' Like a Dame" at the bay, while neighbouring Lumahai Beach is where Mitzi Gaynor made famous "I'm Gonna Wash That Man Right Outa My Hair."

More recently, the North Shore served as the backdrop in films from "Raiders of the Lost Ark" to "Tropic Thunder," which starred part-time local resident Ben Stiller, one of many celebrities who vacation or live here.

Ranked No. 2 in 2008, Hanalei will now be retired from the Dr. Beach's list. Its selection returns the top spot to Hawaii, which has won 12 times since Leatherman started the list in 1991. Florida beaches have been named tops six times, including last year with Caladesi Island. North Carolina won once. California placed No. 4 this year with Coronado Beach but has never claimed the top spot.

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On the Net:

Dr. Beach's Top 10: http://www.drbeach.org

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Here are the winners going back to 1991 of Florida International University professor Stephen P. Leatherman's annual Best Beach award. Winners are retired from later lists.

2009 - Hanalei Bay, Kauai, Hawaii

2008 - Caladesi Island State Park, Dunedin, Fla.

2007 - Ocracoke Lifeguarded Beach, Outer Banks, N.C.

2006 - Fleming Beach Park, Maui, Hawaii

2005 - Fort DeSoto Park - North Beach, St. Petersburg, Fla.

2004 - Hanauma Bay, Oahu, Hawaii

2003 - Kaanapali, Maui, Hawaii

2002 - St. Joseph Peninsula State Park, Port St. Joe, Fla.

2001 - Poipu Beach Park, Kauai, Hawaii

2000 - Mauna Kea Beach, Hawaii

1999 - Wailea Beach, Maui, Hawaii

1998 - Kailua Beach Park, Oahu Hawaii

1997 - Hulopoe, Lanai, Hawaii

1996 - Lanikai Beach, Oahu, Hawaii

1995 - St. Andrews State Park, Panama City, Fla.

1994 - Grayton Beach State Park, Santa Rosa Beach, Fla.

1993 - Hapuna, Hawaii

1992 - Bahia Honda, Big Pine Key, Fla.

1991 - Kapalua Bay Beach, Maui, Hawaii

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Hanalei Bay in Hawaii tops list of 10 best beaches

HANALEI, Hawaii - Here is the list of top 10 U.S. beaches for 2009 from Stephen P. Leatherman, director of Florida International University's Laboratory for Coastal Research, also known as Dr. Beach. He has compiled the list annually since 1991 using 50 criteria, including water quality and temperature, cleanliness, weather, sand, safety and facilities.

1. Hanalei Bay, Kauai, Hawaii

2. Siesta Beach, Sarasota, Fla.

3. Coopers Beach, Southampton, N.Y.

4. Coronado Beach, San Diego.

5. Hamoa Beach, Maui, Hawaii.

6. Main Beach, East Hampton, N.Y.

7. Cape Hatteras, Outer Banks, N.C.

8. Cape Florida State Park, Key Biscayne, Fla.

9. Coast Guard Beach, Cape Cod, Mass.

10. Beachwalker Park, Kiawah Island, S.C.

Ready for a road trip?

TORONTO - While the recession may be putting a crimp on overseas travel plans, those opting to stick closer to home may still be keen to hit the road for a day or overnight trip, particularly as the holiday weekend approaches.

But put the brakes on before packing bags, kids and pets into your sedan, minivan or SUV: experts say there's more to being road ready than simply filling the tank.

Be Car Care Aware, a consumer education campaign spearheaded by Car Care Canada, has developed the Family Road Trip Guide to help Canadians gear up for spring and summer driving.

The new guide, available online for free download, shares suggestions on ways individuals can stay safe while also saving gas and protecting the planet.

It also offers tips on keeping kids entertained by setting aside portions of the trip as "non-plugged in" time for interactive games and activities.

"It was more about the whole process," said former race-car driver and Be Car Care Aware spokeswoman Kelly Williams. "Yes, we want people to take care of their car, but let's take it back to its roots of going on a road trip, playing Punch Buggy or I Spy."

In addition to preparing a roadside emergency kit with items including flares, booster cables and a fire extinguisher, motorists are advised to put together a DIY road-trip first-aid kit.

Items like bug spray and sunscreen can be added as needed with the likes of traditional kit items like bandages and gauze.

However, at its core, the emphasis is still on vehicle road readiness. Motorists are encouraged to conduct a 10-minute road-trip check-up before heading out.

The check-up includes the basics of checking fluids, including engine oil, power steering, brake and transmission fluids. The guide also advises checking hoses and belts, exterior and interior lighting and wiper blades during the check-up.

Spot checks, like pulling the dipstick in your vehicle, are a way to assure peace of mind and are a small inconvenience "for the big inconvenience that it could turn into," said Williams, who has been conducting car-care clinics since last March.

Williams said while checking belts and hoses can be done visually, it may be better to take your vehicle to a technician. If you notice something unusual when checking fluids, also consider having the vehicle inspected professionally, she said.

The guide advises checking tire inflation at least once a month, and to look for bulges and bald spots on tires during the 10-minute check-up, as well as inspecting treads for uneven wear - an indication of the need for wheel alignment.

Failure to check tire pressure can potentially harm the environment as well as the pocketbook.

For each five per cent a tire is under-inflated, one per cent more fuel is consumed, the guide explains.

What's more, improper tire maintenance results in 1.5 million tonnes of carbon dioxide being released into the environment, and costs light-duty vehicle owners in Canada nearly 643 million litres of fuel. Calculated at 79 cents a litre, that translates to more than $500 million in wasted fuel.

Beyond getting vehicles road ready, motorists are also being advised to be aware of those the Canada Safety Council says are generally classified as "vulnerable road users" - pedestrians, cyclists and motorcyclists.

The council said this trio of road users are at greater risk of potential injury or death should they be involved in collisions on the country's roadways.

In 2006, nearly 40 per cent of all collisions at intersections involving vulnerable road users were fatal. While half were pedestrians, 64 per cent of cyclists and 45 per cent of motorcyclists were seriously injured at intersections.

The council has partnered with DriveWise for a week-long awareness campaign to highlight the importance of road users of all stripes to take precautions on the streets, including wearing proper safety gear and adhering to rules of the road.

The majority of fatalities and impaired driving deaths occur on roadways during summer, said Raynald Marchand, general manager of programs for the Canada Safety Council.

Fatigue is also a "real concern," accounting for 15 per cent of all fatalities, he said. Marchand said it's important motorists not go too long without stopping because they may just fall asleep behind the wheel.

"Heading to the cottage on Friday night after a heavy meal and you're tired because you got up at 5 o'clock in the morning to go to work isn't a good thing," he said.

"(People) should share the driving, making sure that you stop periodically, walk about, make the blood move, have a coffee if need be."

-

On the Net:

Be Car Care Aware: www.carcareCanada.ca

Canada Safety Council: www.safety-council.org

Natural attractions

SAINT-ALEXIS-DES-MONTS, Que. -- Of all activities that were planned during a visit to the Mauricie Region, a heavily forested area between Montreal and Quebec City, the one I was looking forward to the least was fishing.

Maybe it had something to do with two previous fishing trips -- one in the Florida Keys where it rained, and another in the B.C. interior, where my line got horribly tangled in some tree branches. In both cases I caught nothing.

My belief in beginners luck was restored, however, at Lac Vacance, where I managed to hook not one but two speckled trout. Though in truth, credit should go to the guide who put the worms on the hook and others who offered valuable rapid-fire tips as I reeled-in the catch. The barbecue shore lunch that followed with these and other trout that were caught, was one of best meals of the trip.

Fishing is a popular activity in Mauricie, but the main attraction for me was the chance to stay at some of the half of dozen inns that are located deep in the vast forest and to travel between them by floatplane. We spent one night each in three of them and visited a fourth -- the Pourvoirie du Lac Blanc in Saint-Alexis-des-Monts, which organized our fishing trip.

All of the properties offered a quiet and relaxing getaway in the woods with activities such as canoeing, kayaking, hiking, swimming, and bear and beaver watching. We tried to sample a bit of everything on offer.

AUBERGE LAC-A-L'EAU-CLAIRE, SAINT-ALEXIS-DES-MONTS

At one of the newest properties, Auberge Lac-a-l'Eau-Claire (Clear Water Lake), we took a leisurely boat tour of the lake where we saw beaver dams and eagles and enjoyed wine and hors d'oeuvres, while our guide relayed his experiences of hunting for moose. There's also a tree-lined path around the lake, which we explored the next day on all-terrain vehicles.

At one stage we turned off the main path onto a side road that lead to another lake. Here, a family of three in a canoe was pulling up to the dock with their catch of the morning -- seven trout, which they proudly displayed.

Highlights: Spacious rooms with a fireplace, a restaurant menu that includes freshly caught trout prepared several different ways, and the semi-Olympic size pool. For more, check lacaleauclaire.com or call 819-265-3185.

HOTEL SACACOMIE, SAINT-ALEXIS-DES-MONTS

Of all the places we visit, Hotel Sacacomie, constructed of huge White Pine logs and perched on a rocky cliff set in 500 sq km of wilderness, is the most eye-catching. Inside, logs crackle in the lobby's fireplace and animal skins adorn the walls along with artwork by the hotel's owner Joyce Plante.

The 111-room hotel built in 1996, attracts an international clientele and even, occasionally, celebrities. Actor Johnny Depp was here with his wife during filming of the movie Secret Window.

It takes about 15 minutes to get to Hotel Sacacomie by floatplane or half-an-hour by car from Auberge Lac-a-l'Eau-Claire. The plane lands at the hotel's private beach. Nearby is a trapper's lodge and a long house. Since our visit the hotel opened a $5-million spa for its guests.

Highlights: The three-hour beavers and bears (we saw both) wildlife excursion; a tasty four-course dinner for $39; and relaxing on the terrace high above the lake. For more, check sacacomie.com or call 1-888-265-4414.

SEIGNEURIE DU TRITON, LAC EDOUARD

Once an elite private club, the Seigneurie du Triton is a historic inn, whose guests over the years have included Churchill, Roosevelt, Truman and Rockefeller. With its original furniture and walls adorned with historic artifacts, old photos and hunting trophies, the place still has the air of bygone days. Except now it's open to regular folks who also like fishing, boating, hiking and sitting around a campfire listening to the wolves howl.

The hotel was built in 1893 by A.L. Light, a hunting and fishing enthusiast who was the engineer responsible for the construction of the Montreal to Jonquiere railway. Today it's still relatively remote.

There's no road to the 50-room hotel, which can only be reached by boat or floatplane. We flew from Hotel Sacacomie in about an hour. You can also take a train to Triton station and arrange for someone to pick you up by boat from the hotel. Among the specialties on the dinner menu is locally smoked fish and seafood.

Highlights: Curios and historic artifacts in the club house including the Roosevelt rocking chair, canoes that date from the hotel's early days, and a shirt worn by former world ski champion Melanie Turgeon, who stayed at the hotel; and a visit to the nearby Innusit Village for aboriginal story-telling, tea and music.

Contact seigneuriedutriton.com or 418-648-0557.

WRITER@INTERLOG.COM

Step into nature at best time

There couldn't be a better time to take a hike.

Hit the trails and step into nature on Ontario's 64,000 kilometres of walking, hiking and biking paths.

A good way to get started is at one of the "open houses" during Trails Open Ontario, a "natural heritage tourism program" held by the Ontario Heritage Trust.

Trails traverse some of Ontario's most beautiful and remote destinations and "infuse the urban areas with a healthy dose of nature," the trust says.

Here are some opportunities to get in touch with nature:

- The Grand River Conservation Authority's Chesney Wilderness Area will have guided hikes of its Hemlock Trail as part of Doors Open Oxford on May 23.

Hikes on the four-kilometre trail from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. pass a sphagnum bog with associated plants including the lady's slipper.

Hawthorn scrub in the north part of the property east of Woodstock near Drumbo is home to the blue-winged warbler. www.doorsopenoxford.ca/chesneyhemlocktrail.html

- Strathroy Conservation Area's Nature Walk and Bagel Breakfast, presented by the St. Clair Conservation Authority, takes place June 6 from 9 a.m. to 11 a.m.

There will be guided nature hikes followed by a toasted bagel breakfast. Pre-registration is required. www.scrca.on.ca; (519) 245-3710.

- Webster's Falls in the Spencer Gorge Wilderness Area will unveil its Hiking Hamilton Waterfalls guide June 6, International Trails Day, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

This booklet lists 10 self-guided walks that pass multiple waterfalls throughout the Hamilton Conservation Authority area. www.conservationhamilton.ca; 1-888-319-4722.

- Grey Sauble Conservation Authority staff will host interpretative hikes at the Inglis Falls Conservation Area on June 6 and 7 from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

The walks will pass mill-pond sink holes and cedar growth forest as well as the old filtration plant and its lighted cavern. www.greysauble.on.ca/trails_open_2009.html; (519) 376-3076.

- Woodstock Trails Day is July 14 from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. at the Upper Thames River Conservation Authority's Pittock Conservation Area.

Activities include a half marathon, five-kilometre trail run, fun run, guided hikes and trail biking, an introduction to safe paddling, dragon boat and fishing demonstrations, barbeque and live entertainment. www.trailsdaywoodstock.ca

Experience a gem on Ontario's West Coast, the MacNaughton-Morrison section of the South Huron Trail including the famous white squirrels of Exeter.

- The Ausable Bayfield Conservation Authority invites hikers to the Morrison Dam Conservation Area July 4 from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Events include a four-kilometre, all-season trail from through the picturesque Ausable River Valley between MacNaughton Park in Exeter and the conservation area. www.abca.on.ca; 1-888-286-2610.

- An arboretum hike featuring the "Wonderful World of Trees" is presented by the Grey Sauble Conservation Authority at the Inglis Falls Conservation Area on July 11 from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m.

This is an "easy" trail hike to learn about Carolinian trees and those of Grey and Bruce. www.greysauble.on.ca/trails_open_2009.html; (519) 376-3076.

- Hike the Bognor Marsh and view wildlife from the observation tower, bird watch along the boardwalk and visit the Ducks Unlimited dam.

This happens at the Bognor Marsh Conservation Area on Aug. 8 from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. and includes tips from outdoor survival expert Geno Ferri. www.greysauble.on.ca/trails_open_2009.html; (519) 376-3076.

- Hikers can explore one of Kettle Creek Conservation Authority's trails at Dan Patterson Conservation Area Aug. 22 from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. www.kettlecreekconservation.on.ca; (519) 631-1270, ext. 229.

- The Peninsula Bruce Trail Club's sixth annual Outdoor Festival runs Sept. 18 to 20 with guided hikes, workshops and special presentations highlighting the diverse ecology of the area.

Visitors can explore the peninsula's rugged trails and breathtaking views of Georgian Bay. www.pbtc.ca

- Search for hidden gems during the Geocaching Treasure Hunt at Lorne C. Henderson Conservation Area on Sept. 13 from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.

The St. Clair Conservation Authority event invites visitors to bring or borrow a GPS (Global Positioning System) unit to locate a hidden cache in the 115-hectare wetlands/forested habitat. www.scrca.on.ca; (519) 882-2399.

- The Laurel Creek Nature Centre in Waterloo offers guided hikes on Sept. 19 from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. as part of Doors Open along with children's programs. www.grandriver.ca

- Join the Salamander Festival at the Credit Valley Conservation Authority's Belfountain Conservation Area on Oct. 3 from 11 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.

A leisurely family hike will explore the Niagara Escarpment along the West Credit River. www.creditvalleycons.com; 1-800-267-0980.

- A Fall Colour Walk in Backus Woods Conservation Area in Port Rowan is planned by the Long Point Region Conservation Area on Oct. 18 at 2 p.m. and includes a hike along the Sugar Bush Trail. www.lprca.on.ca; (519) 586-2201.

IF YOU HIKE

For more information on Trails Open events and hiking areas across the province, go to www.heritagetrust.on.ca and click the link.

The Doors Open Ontario guide that includes Trails Open Ontario information is available at tourism centres or call 1-800-ONTARIO (668-2746); E-mail: marketing@heritagetrust.on.ca

10 free things to do in Europe

NEW YORK - If you're taking advantage of the relatively strong dollar this year by heading to Europe, you'll be looking for ways to save even more when you get there. Here is a list of 10 free and fun things to do in Europe, compiled by the European Travel Commission:

-In Madrid, the Palace of Liria, the 18th century residence of the Duchess of Alba at Calle Princesa 20, offers a collection of Spanish art, along with Flemish, German, Dutch, Italian, English and French paintings, with guided tours Fridays at 10 a.m., 11 a.m. and noon.

-Rome's picturesque Trastevere area on the Tiber's west bank, a charming and colourful neighbourhood, hosts a festival the European Travel Commission describes as "Fellini-esque" for eight days in the second half of July, the Festa di Noantri, with a religious procession, food and entertainment.

-In Leipzig, Germany, Porsche gives free factory tours where you can see cars like the Cayenne and the new Panamera assembled on antiseptically clean floors. The tour includes a museum with exhibits covering Porsche history. If you feel like upgrading your free tour, various packages for purchase include lunch and even driving experiences on a track. Details at http://www.porsche-leipzig.de.

-In Paris, the Friday Night Fever - http://www.pari-roller.com - is a mass group tour by inline skaters of the city at night. Meeting point is Place Raoul Dautry in the 14th Arrondissement, between the Montparnasse office tower and the Paris-Montparnasse train station, at 10 p.m. The route varies every week but always covers roughly 30 kilometres and returns to the starting point at 1 a.m.

-Visit a sculpture park in Oslo with more than 200 works by Norway's most famous sculptor, Gustav Vigeland. The figures depict people in all stages of life and various emotions; details at http://www.vigeland.museum.no.

-In Lisbon, the Gulbenkian Museum houses a magnificent collection of Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Islamic, Asian and European art. Exhibits include Japanese prints, Persian tapestries and European paintings from Rembrandt to Rubens to Renoir.

-Sandeman's New Europe tour company is offering walking tours of nine European cities - including Paris, Madrid, London and Berlin - free of charge except for optional tipping. The latest addition to the list is a three-hour tour of Prague. Details at http://www.sandemans-new.com.

-Zurich is known as an expensive city, but a visit to the Church of Our Lady (Fraumunster) is free and the13th century building includes two modern art treasures: a large stained-glass window done by the artist Alberto Giacometti in the 1940s, along with five stained glass windows designed by Marc Chagall in 1970.

-A monument to Frank Zappa, creator of the 1960s band the Mothers of Invention, can be found in Vilnius, Lithuania. Zappa is of Lithuanian descent, and the monument is located in an area known as Uzupis, known for its countercultural leanings, cafes, galleries and other artists' hangouts.

-In Amsterdam, at the Wooden Shoe Factory, you can watch typical Dutch wooden shoes being hand carved and painted while learning the lore behind them, which dates to the 14th century. Details at http://www.woodenshoefactory.com.

Vancouver Island's response to life

OYSTER BAY, B.C. - Forget the kayaking package, followed by a full spa treatment the day after bouncing around in a boat on a fishing expedition.

Lots of Vancouver Island resorts offer those seaside amusements, but others are opting for the other end of the spectrum - quiet, meditative, thoughtful.

This is a part of the country with a reputation for embracing organic food and mysticism. These days, some hippy-era retreats of me-centred contemplation have keyed their offerings to a wired world in deep recession.

John Shields, executive director of Haven on Gabriola Island, says that despite the economic downturn, his facility's month-long program for couples in August has already 40 participants registered - just about full capacity.

It's not always that full, he says.

"As (people's) anxiety goes up, their interest in coming to Haven to work with their personal demons really does continue," Shields says.

"I think there might be a direct correlation between tougher economic challenges and people's need to have more resiliency and have more ability to respond to life's challenges."

The retreat's signature month-long self-exploration program is also booking up. The Come Alive program runs 20 times per year and encourages participants to use breathing, relaxation and group-circle techniques.

It is "an opportunity to unblock your energy, discover your resources and realize your full potential," says the Haven's website.

Adds Shields: "It's exhilarating work."

When the Hollyhock retreat was first established on Cortes Island in 1982, the focus was similarly on inner work.

But these days, Hollyhock bills itself as offering "learning holidays."

It's more about "bringing what people learn back home and putting it to practical use, rather than just gaining your own personal insight," says Greg Osoba, Hollyhock's marketing director.

This month, for example, the retreat is offering a four-day workshop on non-violent communication, with an aim to breaking "through old limiting patterns" to teach participants "a powerful way of communicating that is deeply satisfying and ultimately liberating."

There's also a five-day course on spiritual chanting with Krishna Das, and there's the option of spending five days with the spa's head organic gardener, chef and naturalist.

"Hollyhock exists to inspire, nourish and support people who are making the world better," said Osoba. "That's our mission statement."

Osoba said his facility has definitely been affected by the recession, but added that things haven't been as tough on Hollyhock as in some other places.

Visitors are hoping to come away from their holiday at Hollyhock with some "practical skills" to weather the downturn, he said.

Hollyhock covers all the bases, though. Kayaking, full spa body treatments and top-end organic food are also on offer for anyone wanting a more traditional resort holiday.

Ocean Resort, at Oyster Bay on Vancouver Island, has deliberately chosen not to offer those types of packages.

Lucas Stiefvater says he was once in the pampering business, providing guests at another Vancouver Island resort with massage sessions and gourmet food.

But a trip to India changed his life, and now the 60-year-old businessman says he's focused on providing guests at Ocean Resort, just south of Campbell River, with something more internal and transformational.

He calls it stillness, or "that place of calmness, peace, contentment and joy, and sort of lightness within."

"After I got in touch with the stillness, not just intellectually, but really had the feeling of what stillness really is, I said I want to create a place where the stillness can be experienced, the stillness is honoured and the stillness can be practised," said Stiefvater, who owns the resort.

He says in these economic times people are looking for answers.

Visitors have the opportunity to meditate in a sanctuary overlooking the Strait of Georgia and Desolation Sound, read or watch spiritual DVDs in the library, participate in life coaching sessions, or just sit in a sauna and work out in the exercise room.

Soon they'll also be able to walk a driftwood labyrinth, currently under construction.

Perfect place for a wee dram

NEAR KILLEARN, Scotland -- Hunched over the row of beakers, I felt like a mad scientist. I was in the midst of a master blender class at Glengoyne Distillery trying to determine which of the eight whiskies in front of me I would combine to blend my very own, perfect dram.

Over the course of an hour or so, and with the assistance of our whisky instructor, Lauren Wylie, our group swirled amber liquids, added a few drops of this, a bit more of that, laughed and wondered whether it was all going to be drinkable when we were finished.

The master blender class is one of several tours and tastings available at the award-winning Glengoyne Distillery, which has been producing single malt whisky since 1833. Located in a beautiful wooded valley near Killearn, it is about 24 km north of Glasgow.

If you are travelling in the area, don't bypass Glasgow. Once easy to miss, in the last decade or so, it has come on strong as a capital of fashion, design, arts and music. Seasoned clubbers like to party there, and for shoppers, it's retail therapy to the max.

Glengoyne is the southernmost distillery in the Scottish Highlands. The village of Balloch at the southern end of Loch Lomond is just 19 km away. Gorgeous Loch Lomond's rugged peaks and hidden glens are steeped in mystery and romance. This is the land of the legendary Rob Roy MacGregor, immortalized by Sir Walter Scott, and visitors can visit his cave and the farm where he was born.

In one of those quirky things that make Scotland such an engaging place to visit, the Highland line, which notionally divided Highland from Lowland Scotland, splits the distillery in two. Glengoyne is distilled in the Highlands and matured in the Lowlands. There's no doubt this is an ideal spot for making whisky. Clear, soft water is filtered through the rocks of Dumgoyne Hill that towers behind the distillery and flows through the wooded glen to the waterfall at the distillery. It imparts a delicate flavour to the whisky that reflects the milder climate of the southern Highlands.

As we learned on the tour, Scotch whisky is made with just three ingredients: Water, barley and yeast. The distillation process for all whisky is basically the same, but the fascinating thing about Scotch is how different it tastes depending on how many years it is aged, the skill of the craftsmen, and especially, on the region where it is made.

Traditionally there are four main whisky regions in Scotland -- the Lowlands, the Highlands, Campbelltown and Islay, along with a couple of areas such as Speyside (where more than half of Scotland's distilleries are located) and the Islands (Mull, Skye, Orkney, Arran and Jura), which are subdivisions of the Highlands. The Lowlands in the south produce soft, light spirit with a refined, delicate flavour; and the mountainous Highlands to the north result in a variety of characteristics from dry and heathery to sweet and fruity, and some with a hint of smoke. Campbelltown single malts are full bodied and known for their slightly salty finish with a peat flavour similar to that found in an Islay malt. The Islands produce robust whiskies with a coastal salty tang and fresh sea air. And Speyside produces mellow, sweet, malty and particularly fruity malt whiskies.

BLENDING SESSION

Along with the distillery tour, we sampled Glengoyne's 10-year-old offering, a light, golden-coloured whisky with a sweet, apple flavour that is a good introduction if you're not too familiar with the liquor. For those with a more knowledgeable palate, there is an opportunity to sample from Glengoyne's full range that includes 12, 17 and 21-year-old whiskies. Then it was on to the blending session.

You don't have to be a whisky expert to enjoy the class. Nose (smell) each whisky, taking note of its characteristics and colour and then just mix as you please. The certificate of excellence we each received recorded the amounts of our special formula, and although I can't divulge the recipe, mine was a blend of two grain whiskies, plus a bit of Glengoyne, and others from the Lowlands, the Highlands, Speyside and the Islands.

Each of us got to take home a wee bottle of our blend, and it was every bit as tasty as I hoped it would be.

DETAILS

The master blender session is L30 (about $53) per person and includes a welcome dram of 10-year-old single malt Highland whisky, guided distillery tour, a dram of Glengoyne's award-winning 17-year-old single Highland malt whisky, and the master blender class complete with a 100 ml bottle of their own blend.

Other activities include: The Glengoyne Tour (about $10) per person, which includes a welcome dram of 10-year-old whisky, a video and guided tour; Wee Tasting Tour (about $13.50), includes the Glengoyne Tour, plus an additional tasting of 17-year-old whisky; Tasting Tour ($27), includes the Glengoyne Tour above, plus additional sampling of the 12-year old, the 17-year-old and 21-year-old whisky. See glengoyne.com for more.

As part of Homecoming Scotland 2009, May has been declared Whisky Month. More than 30 festivals, events, special distillery tours and tastings, are taking place across the country. These include whisky weekends, a whisky auction and Whisky Galore -- A Musical. See homecomingscotland2009.com for details. For information on travelling in Scotland, see visitscotland.com and visitbritain.ca.

Top campgrounds in the West

MENLO PARK, Calif. - Sunset magazine's May issue is listing 50 scenic spots to pitch your tent. Here are 10 of the 50, all of them coastal campgrounds with cheap and beautiful seaside views:

-Kirk Creek, Big Sur, Calif.

-Big Lagoon County Park, Trinidad, Calif.

-Gerstle Cove Campground, Salt Point State Park, north of Jenner, Calif.

-Mattole Campground, north of Shelter Cove, Calif.

-Refugio State Beach, northwest of Santa Barbara, Calif.

-Jalama Beach County Park, west of Lompoc, Calif.

-Leo Carrillo State Park, Malibu, Calif.

-Porcupine Campground, Chugach National Forest, Alaska

-China Beach Campground, Juan de Fuca Provincial Park, Vancouver Island, British Columbia

-Cape Disappointment State Park, southwest of Ilwaco, Wash.

Something fishy in New Brunswick

DOAKTOWN, N.B. -- Perched on the bank of the Southwest Miramichi River in central New Brunswick, and tucked behind some homes in the heart of the village of Doaktown, is a hidden treasure -- the Atlantic Salmon Museum.

It's not hard to drive right by.

But together with an adjacent aquarium, the museum features displays, an outstanding collection of artwork and a spectacular view of the river.

On any given day, that view might include salmon jumping a metre or more into the air, fly fishermen casting their lines, and bald eagles soaring overhead or swooping down for a salmon meal.

For the husband and wife team of Bev and Linda Gaston, it's a great place to go to work every day.

Linda is the museum manager, while Bev is a licensed guide on the river and offers an informative tour.

"Our museum not only tells the story of the salmon, but it also tells the story of the heritage of the people," Linda said.

"When you go through the museum you're going to learn all about the Atlantic salmon, what it looked like many years ago, what it looks like today, the trials and tribulations of the Atlantic salmon -- because it's an amazing creature," she said.

The walls throughout the museum are covered with photographs and a collection of paintings by artists such as Henry McDaniel and John Swan. There's also a well-stocked gift shop.

In the mid-1970s, the North American population of Atlantic salmon was about 1.6 million. It's now less than a third of that.

Many things have contributed to the decline, such as overfishing, dams, pollution and climate change.

One of the few areas where the population has begun to rebound is the Miramichi River.

There are no dams on the river to block the salmon as they return to spawn, and the majority of salmon caught here are carefully released.

As well, the museum and other groups have programs to restock the river and educate the public on the importance of conservation.

"We have what is called the Fish Friends Program, and schools all over the province can participate," Linda said. "They raise their salmon from eggs, (and) when their eggs become fry they come to the Atlantic Salmon Museum and we release them into the river."

"Of 200 fry that we put into the river, it's lucky if one of them survives, so that's why the program is so important."

The work being done at the museum is getting kudos from the Atlantic Salmon Federation.

"They do an excellent job," said Sue Scott, a federation spokesperson.

Chocolate in Brussels

BRUSSELS, Belgium -- It was a tough job but somebody had to do it. During a recent visit to Belgium, I volunteered to sample as much chocolate as I could, comparing chocolate grown from different regions in the world (yeah, Ecuador!) and trying some of the new artisanal flavours that included tequila, green tea, lavender and tobacco (the last one is not my fave).

Belgium is world renowned for its high quality chocolate based on the use of top-notch ingredients and exceptional production practices. In fact, there are more than 2,100 chocolate shops around the country, and more than 172,000 tons of chocolate are produced every year.

The country takes its chocolate very seriously. In 2000, a European Union decision allowed for up to 5% of the cocoa butter in chocolate to be replaced with vegetable fat and still be called chocolate. This offers chocolate makers a huge cost savings as vegetable fat is cheaper than cocoa butter. However, chocolate purists and artisanal producers under a designation called AMBAO (Swahili for cocoa) use only 100% cocoa butter, preserving the integrity and taste of their chocolate.

Even in a chocolate mecca like Belgium, there is a lot of cheaper chocolate available. Just keep in mind that price is a real indication of quality and cocoa content. You get what you pay for. For better quality chocolate, look for names such as Neuhaus, Galler, Le Chocolatier Manon, Pierre Marcoloni, Mary (official purveyor of chocolate to the Belgian court), Wittamer (which started in Austria) and Leonidas (cheaper than the others, but still quite good).

A pilgrimage site for chocolate lovers is the Neuhaus store on Galerie de la Reine in Brussels, which has existed on the site since 1857 when Jean Neuhaus arrived from Switzerland and opened his shop of tasty treats.

It was his grandson, also named Jean Neuhaus, who put Belgium on the map when he created pralines in 1912. He developed the technique for these individual, hand-crafted delicacies that consist of a "couverture" chocolate shell that hold all kinds of fillings including caramels, hazelnut, creams and ganaches. Common today, it revolutionized and expanded chocolate offerings from that day forward.

Christian Manon of Le Chocolatier Manon prides himself on his authentic, traditional, handmade pralines. He makes all his own fillings -- 65 different kinds -- from fresh ingredients such as butter, cream, nuts and fruits.

"People aren't informed enough about quality chocolate. Much of the factory-produced chocolate has way too much sugar and fat in it. Eat a few pieces and you'll find the fat sticks in your throat. Butter doesn't, so you'll know it's good," he says.

One of Manon's most popular flavours is a multi-layered chocolate called "bouchon" that includes dark chocolate with cognac buttercream. Believe me, it's delicious. (In Toronto, you can buy Manon chocolates at Chocolates & Creams on Queen's Quay West.)

Many of today's artisan chocolatiers are distinguishing themselves by the originality and flavour of their fillings. Chocolatier Pierre Marcolini's high-end store on Rue des Minimes looks like a designer fashion boutique. And like haute couture fashion, he launches different summer and winter chocolate collections, plus special editions for Christmas and Easter. The exquisite packaging rivals that created for the finest perfumes.

Increasingly, he has been creating chocolate that emphasizes the origin of the cocoa beans, from places such as Ghana, Ecuador and Venezuela. Sampled in this way you really taste the difference, the cocoa reflecting its origin much like terroir affects the flavour of wine.

At the modest Musee du Cacao et du Chocolate (mucc.be) just off the Grand Place, visitors learn all about how cacao beans are grown and processed, as well as production techniques for making chocolate.

Excellent chocolate shops can be found around the country. If you're in the charming, historic city of Brugges, don't miss The Chocolate Line on Simon Stevinplein. Self-described "shock-o-latier" Dominique Persoone has crafted some unusual flavours of chocolates: Marzipan with black olives, fresh basil and sun-dried tomatoes, cola and almond praline that pops in your mouth, and tequila and sea salt.

Also stop by Chocolaterie Sukerbuyc on Katelijnestraat. At Sukerbuyc (sugarbelly in English), you can watch the chocolatiers at work from a glassed viewing area. Its tea room called "de Proeverie" is situated opposite the shop and is famous for its hot chocolate. Its dark chocolate hazelnut pralines are divine.

BOTTOMLINE

For information on chocolate tours and events, go to visitbelgium.com/chocolate.htm. For travel information, see visitflanders.us.

The best & worst of the Yukon

The Yukon's heyday -- the Klondike gold rush -- is long gone. Nowadays, it's tourists who come for its other riches.

The allure of this remote and rugged territory includes Canada's highest peak, 5,959-metre Mount Logan, glaciers more than 3-km wide in places, and Dawson City, arguably Canada's most colourful town.

I had my first taste of the Yukon in a week-long trip last August. Riding in a brute of a SUV called, appropriately, a Yukon, a group of us made a 1,500-km loop from Whitehorse to Dawson and back.

Here's a purely personal list of favourites, surprises and disappointments.

BEST ACTIVITY

A helicopter flight over the glaciers in Kluane National Park. Every turn of the head and every increase in elevation brought into view more of these ice rivers that give birth to liquid ones. Pilot Ben Drury told me he doubted the virgin snow below had ever seen a footprint, or ever would. This was one of my all-time top travel experiences.

An hour's ride in a Trans North four-passenger Bell Jet Ranger IIIs worked out to $225-$350 per person. Sifton Air was charging $150 a head for a similar flight in a small plane.

BEST SCENERY

Kluane National Park, bordering Alaska and British Columbia. The jumping-off point is Haines Junction, two hours' drive west of Whitehorse. Parks Canada staff do guided hikes three days a week and a Sunday campfire talk from late June through August.

FAVOURITE TOWN

Dawson City, with its board sidewalks and frame buildings that either date to the early 1900s or look it.

ODDEST STOP

Chicken, Alaska. Seems the early arrivals wanted to name it after their favourite game bird, the ptarmigan, but couldn't spell it so settled for chicken. This is a chance to buy a "Cluck U -- Grade AA education" T-shirt or a fridge magnet proclaiming "I got laid in Chicken.''

BEST VALUE

Parks Canada's interpretive programs in Dawson. I joined a walking tour, visited an old sternwheeler and learned about the life and poetry of Robert Service (The Cremation of Sam McGee, among others). A pass for any three of seven attractions is only $13.70.

WORST VALUE

A Holland America-Gray Line self-drive jeep tour of the Dawson goldfields, poorly narrated via two-way radio, for $94 per person.

BIGGEST SURPRISE

Consistently good food. I half-expected hot hamburg sandwiches and got seared tuna and risotto, washed down with Yukon Gold lager, marketed as "beer worth freezing for." Some menus feature caribou and Arctic char.

BIGGEST DISAPPOINTMENT

Not seeing any wildlife, unless you count gophers.

FAVOURITE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE

Sundog Carving School in Whitehorse, where government-sponsored programs help young people become self-supporting artists. Visitors can watch the kids work and shop for carvings and prints. All proceeds go to the artists.

MOST FUN

Watching -- and becoming part of -- the floor show at Diamond Tooth Gerties Gambling Hall. It's run by the Klondike Visitors Association, so the profits go toward community attractions and visitor services.

I loathe casinos but Gerties, with its lack of glitz and its 10 cents slots, is good fun.

Male patrons are routinely dragged on stage to dance with the can-can girls. I escaped that only to have the lead singer stroll over, clasp my face to her bosom and demand to know if I'd "broken the heart" of anyone else in the audience. Two women -- strangers, I swear -- raised their hands. So did one man. And that definitely called for another drink!

Our land has vacations aplenty

Considering a made-in-Canada holiday this year? Here's a coast-to-coast-to-coast selection of ideas.

Newfoundland

On the 100th anniversary of Robert Peary's first expedition to reach the North Pole, Maxxim Vacations has developed a fly/drive itinerary to honour Robert Bartlett, the Newfoundland-born explorer who captained the ship that took Peary there. Visit www.maxximvacations.com or phone 1-800-567-6666.

Nova Scotia

The Joggins Fossil Cliffs, along the Bay of Fundy, north of Springhill, are so renowned for their 300-million-year-old fossils they've been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Guided tours leave from a new interpretive centre. Visit www.jogginsfossilcliffs.net

Prince Edward Island

Experience PEI offers half-day and day-long activities such as going out with an oyster fisher, learning to tie a fishing fly or digging for your dinner. This firm won the 2008 Parks Canada Sustainable Tourism Award. Visit www.experiencepei.ca.

New Brunswick

EdVentures, billed as Atlantic Canada's largest learning program in craft and culture, begins its second season July 6 in Fredericton. There will be more than 120 workshops, plus cultural events and free evening entertainment. Visit www.edVentures.ca or phone 1-888-850-1333.

Quebec

Eco-Odyssey is a six-kilometre-long water maze near Wakefield, in the Outaouais region. Visitors travel by pedal-boat and learn about animal and plant species. Michel Leclair, former animal conservation officer in Gatineau Park, developed the maze on nearly 30 hectares of marshland. Visit www.eco-odyssee.ca.

Hamilton's a great place to view waterfalls. More than 100 have been identified. Peak viewing time ends in mid-May, so you need to hurry. A new Cascades and Waterfalls of Hamilton website arrives this summer, along with a Hiking Hamilton Waterfalls brochure. Visit www.conservationhamilton.ca or call 1-888-319-4722.

Manitoba

The Costume Museum of Canada, in downtown Winnipeg, has more that 30,000 items. It focuses on clothing and accessories from 300 years of Canadian and world history. Among this summer's exhibits is The Dirty Thirties. Visit www.costumemuseum.com.

Saskatchewan

The RCMP Heritage Centre in Regina uses exhibits, multimedia technologies and programming to tell the story of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police. The centre is on the grounds of the RCMP Academy, Depot Division. Visit www.rcmpheritagecentre.com. Don't forget the Sunset Retreat Ceremonies on Tuesday evenings July 1- Aug. 12.

Alberta

Before it became the RCMP it was the North West Mounted Police. Its history comes to life in the fort from which the community of Fort Macleod took its name. The NWMP Musical Ride first took place there in 1876, and daily shows are held from July 1 to Labour Day weekend, except Tuesdays. Visit www.nwmpmuseum.com.

British Columbia

The new Peak 2 Peak gondola at Whistler is the longest and highest of its type. It stretches from the top of Whistler Mountain to the top of Blackcomb Mountain, travelling 4.4 kilometres in 11 minutes. Visit www.PEAK2PEAKGondola.com.

Yukon/Northwest Territories

The Dempster Highway, Canada's first all-weather road to cross the Arctic Circle, starts near Dawson City, in the Yukon, and ends 671kilometres later near Inuvik, in the N.W.T. Tourists rave about scenery and wildlife; truckers rant about ruts and potholes. The highway is open approximately June 10-Oct. 14 and Dec. 15-April 30. For road conditions in the N.W.T., phone 1-800-661-0752 or visit www.dot.gov.nt.ca/_live/pages/wpPages/roadConditions.aspx; for the Yukon, 1-867-456-7623 or www.511yukon.ca.

Nunavut

Cruises to this remote territory are so popular that booking far in advance is recommended. You can choose a High Arctic cruise or a South Baffin one. Visitors watch for whales, explore fjords and buy fine pieces directly from Inuit artists.

Visit www.nunavuttourism.com for a list of tour operators.

10 countries to avoid now

Though many travelers have crossed Mexico off their summer wish lists, it's not the only region with a travel alert.

In April alone, the U.S. government warned against travel in Yemen, Georgia, Sudan and the Central African Republic. Terrorism, crime and civil unrest are among the reasons the State Department's Bureau of Consular Affairs warns Americans to avoid these countries.

To put together our list of 10 countries to avoid now, we took into account both the health and security risks in Mexico. The swine flu outbreak there is now rated a stage five pandemic by the World Health Organization. In addition, the State Department released a travel alert for Mexico on April 20, citing an increase in drug cartel violence, especially along the border with the U.S. As most travelers know, the U.S. is advising against any nonessential visits to Mexico.

In Depth: 10 Countries To Avoid Now

Beyond Mexico, we looked at countries most recently flagged by the State Department as unsafe for Americans. The list includes a total of 29 nations the U.S. government deems unsafe.

In Yemen, for instance, a suicide bomber hit a South Korean motorcade near the Sana'a airport on March 18. In the Central African Republic, armed rebel groups, bandits and poachers make all areas beyond the capital, Bangui, dangerous.

Since January 2009, Madagascar has experienced violent clashes and crime due to political unrest. American citizens have not been targeted to date, but the State Department still warns against any travel to the area.

And while the State Department says that the situation in Columbia has improved over the last few years, it still says traveling there is not a good idea. Violence by narco-terrorist groups continues to affect some rural areas as well as large cities, particularly Buenaventura, a Pacific Ocean port primarily known for drug trafficking and violence.

One small ray of light for travelers who had hoped to vacation in Mexico this spring: Some companies are making it easier for travelers to change plans. On April 28, American Airlines said it would offer cancellations without penalty for flights to Mexico through May 16.

Given the plethora of travel warnings, and the bleak economic outlook worldwide, the dreaded "staycation" never seemed more appealing.

In Depth: 10 Countries To Avoid Now

Sicily fuses times and cultures

MONREALE, ITALY -- I am inside one of the most glittering monuments to Christianity -- the mosaic-filled cathedral of Monreale -- talking to a conservator, whose apron is covered in Arabic script, about U.S. President Barack Obama.

As our chat about possible new American policies in the Middle East interrupts his excruciatingly slow restoration of the Duomo's 900-year-old floor mosaic, I can't help but think, only in Sicily.

Throughout its 2.5 millennia of history, this jarringly gorgeous Mediterranean island has been at the crossroads of drastically different cultures. Miraculously, it has managed to fuse those contrasts peacefully. The fruits of that fusion make Sicily one of the most intriguing parts of Europe.

Twice during the past decade, I've done week-long tours of the island, marvelling at everything from Catholic chapels bejeweled by Muslim artists to the everyday heroism of anti-Mafia businesses. A visit to Sicily is a study in the unexpected fusion of times and cultures. And these are a few of my favourite pairings:

Multicultural devotions: Bleary-eyed from the overnight ferry that took me from Naples to Palermo, Sicily's capital, I made a beeline for the Cappella Palatina, the chapel built in the early 1100s by the Norman king in his palace complex. At 8:30 a.m., I had it for myself for a few minutes before the tourists arrived, enough to be transported by the glitters of gold chasing each other from the wall mosaics into the painted kaleidoscope that is the carved wooden ceiling.

Under the patronage of Sicily's first Catholic king, Muslim artists executed the ceiling, while Greek artists created mosaics representing Christ and New Testament scenes in the Byzantine tradition. Straight from the era of the crusades comes the most dazzling artistic and cultural synthesis of the medieval Mediterranean world.

Antiquity Alive: Ancient Greek colonizers snapped up the best vistas in Sicily. I can't decide if the most scenic archeological site in the Mediterranean is Segesta in its splendid valley isolation among pines and honey-scented wildflowers; Selinunte, framed by eucalypti on its Africa-facing sandy shores; the Taormina theatre opening over the sea and the volcano, Mount Etna; or Agrigento's Valley of Temples, by sheer size the most stunning of them all. I like the latter best in the late afternoon, when the wind-eroded stone of its two best-preserved 450 BC Greek temples -- the nearly intact Tempio della Concordia and the Tempio di Giunone up the ridge -- turn strawberry gold in the dusk and then are floodlit among the dark silhouettes of olive trees and agave plants.

Revitalizing hidden treasures: If Sicilians 2,500 years ago stunned by vistas, those who built palaces and piazzas in the Baroque era astonished by intricacies. Noto, Ragusa Ibla and my favourite, the Ortigia island neighbourhood of Siracusa, are full of churches and palaces exuberantly carved with mythical figures and floral arrangements. Once crumbling in decay, they have been scrubbed to a shine like aristocratic drawing rooms.

Two palaces to stay: The countryside villa of Baron Luigi Bordonaro di Chiaramonte, built in the 13th century inland from Agrigento, and the gorgeously frescoed Palazzo Ajutamicristo of the Barons Calefati di Canalotti in Palermo's historic centre. Both young owners are gambling that tourism will help their historical treasures stay vital.

Anti-Mafia food: Young Sicilian Angelo Fabio Conticello and his brother own the iconic Palermo restaurant Antica Focacceria San Francesco, so famous that when I visited it, I thought the squad cars in the square outside were there to protect some celebrity gorging on their octopus or fried vegetable plates.

The golf's just getting better

BILOXI, Miss. — Memories of the devastation of Hurricane Katrina are never
far from charter boat captain Mike Moore's thoughts.

The mother of all storms, which ripped through New Orleans and Mississippi's
Gulf Coast Aug, 29 of 2005, deposited 28 feet of water in some parts of Moore’s home,
then later nearly killed him after he picked up a rare disease (Gillian Beret Syndrome).

“After Katrina, there were boats, houses, you name it, in the middle of the street,” says Moore. “Hurricanes have no prejudice. There were people from lower to higher class that were suddenly homeless.”

It would have been easy for Moore, his wife Brandy (then his girlfriend), her
son Bradley and her uncle to pack their bags and move away. But, with the
presence of humvees and blackhawk helicopters making the area look more like
a war zone, they lived in a 400-sq-ft loft while rebuilding their home.

One day, while working on his boat, he began to feel the effects a strain of the rare disease, a strain known as Miller Fish. One morning, he woke up on the floor, barely able to move. He got himself to the hospital, calling his wife to tell her that their wedding three days later in Mexico would have to be called off. He was back moving around a week later and the wedding was back on three weeks after that.

“Not only did I beat the storm, I beat that (disease), too,” says Moore. “You have to roll with the punches. And there have been a lot of punches.”

Through it all, through the personal losses, Moore loves the Mississippi gulf
coast, a sentiment pretty widely shared by the folks who live there ... the
people who would love nothing better than to have "y'all come visit us
soon."

"There’s so much to be thankful for,” says Moore. “This area has so much going for it. We've got the deep-sea fishing, the casinos, the fine dining and the golf
... and the beach didn't go away."

"The sky's the limit for this place. It can be a world-class destination."

World-class and inexpensive. The Mississippi Gulf Coast offers plenty of value ... and year-round
fun.

Mardi Gras, which runs early in the year, is a tamer version of the
boob-fest that rocks New Orleans. More than 85,000 men, women and children
lined the Biloxi streets during this year's final parade in February, hooting and
hollering for beads.

"New Orleans has a bit more of an edge," says Richard Forrester, executive
director of the Mississippi Gulf Coast CVB. "It's more of a joyous family
atmosphere over here. This was my first experience here and we were pretty
much overwhelmed looking at that huge crowd of people.

"I'm a big bah humbug guy, but there was a need for this kind of
celebration."

While visiting Biloxi for three days, I got in a couple of rounds of golf at
Windance and Grand Bear, two of the many majestic area courses. There are
also wonderful tracks like The Preserve, Shell Landing and The Bridges. As strange as it seems, the golf experience may be even better post-Katrina.

"We were open 30 days after (Katrina)," says Windance golf pro David Lee.
"We had coolers in my office. It became our food and beverage office. Some
of the courses that were too difficult became better. They opened up a bit.”

In between rounds of golf, I got an afternoon of fishing in, courtesy of Capt. Robert Brodie, who
laughed while telling the story of a fisherman who, after latching onto a
black drum fish, suddenly jumped into the water. With his wife laughing, the
man finally surfaced with rod, and no fish. The fish had yanked the rod out
of the man's hands and he jumped in to retrieve it. While I'm not much of a
fisherman, one of my boatmates for the day — James Allmon Sr., a wonderfully
pleasant gentleman — hauled in a mammoth black drum, a 65-pounder.
So why do tourists take such a liking to Biloxi?

"The No. 1 reason is the people here," says Kevin Drum, executive director
of the Mississippi Gulf Coast Golf Association. "The way you're treated when
you come here is a natural thing to the people that live here. You'll get
the 'How y'all today?' It's the way they are. It sounds quirky, but it's the
truth. We're very fortunate."

"The term southern hospitality is there for a reason," says Grand Bear's head golf pro Mike Buckley. "Everybody down here is friendly. You get a
pretty comfortable feeling around them."

"We've got great weather, great golf, nearly 60 miles of Gulf of Mexico
coastline and 11 great casinos."

Canadian golfers have certainly taken a liking to Biloxi. Drum says there
are more enquiries from Ottawa than any other Canadian city, but there are
plenty of snowbirds from all over making the trek.

Grand Bear offers tranquility and serenity — along with a dynamic golf
layout.

"There are no cars, no houses here," says Buckley. "That's one of the first
things people notice is that you don't hear cars going by. There's no
traffic.

"I've been here 10 years and I still get that warm, fuzzy feeling when I
see a deer walk out onto the course."

If grabbing some tasty food weighs into your decision for a holiday
destination, the Biloxi area takes a back seat to few others.

We dined at the Hard Rock Hotel and Casino (where I drank sake for the first
time), the exquisite Beau Rivage, Mary Mahoney's Old French House (always a
highlight) and also grabbed a pre-Mardi Gras breakfast at Burger Burger.
If you're in the area, Mary Mahoney's has to be on your list.

You can find Bob Mahoney on Page 57 of John Grisham's Runaway Jury. The food
is that good and he's that famous.

"My mama got this place goin'," says Mahoney as he holds court over our
table. "All I have to do stop from screwing it up."

Forester says the Gulf Coast has plenty going for it.

"You can fish, gamble and golf, all in the same place," he says. "This is a
place where you can get a lot for your money. There's a comfortableness
about the destination and I think people are seeking that."

There's no questioning the value. Many of the courses rival anything you'll
find south of the border.

"You can get Top 100 golf courses for around $100. You can't find that
anywhere in the U.S.," says Buckley.

"This whole destination is built on value," says Lee. "And we're getting
back to that, getting away from the upper scale."

Sounds like a destination that y'all should consider visiting.

Top online travel companies

With the economy in the dumps and swine flu in the headlines, many people are probably thinking about sticking close to home this summer. But that isn't keeping online travel booking services from coming out with ads and promotions aimed at getting people to hit the road.

Since travel deals differ only by a few dollars, online travel companies have to somehow differentiate their sites and offers. Expedia, Orbitz, Travelocity and Priceline are duking it out with ads and promotions.

For example, Travelocity, a company that touts its customer service and guarantees in its ads, is rolling out new broadcast spots to inspire people to plan weekend getaways. The ad features a young couple on a Mission Impossible-like quest to get away from the house and kids and into a peaceful hotel for a weekend. Another company, Priceline, is airing TV commercials in which pitchman William Shatner, as the "Negotiator," encourages people to haggle for better deals. In one spot, Shatner drops racy pick-up lines to get a hotel clerk to lower her fees. "You're so naughty," Shatner tells the clerk after she lowers the fee from $299 to $99 a night. In Pictures: Top 10 Travel Destinations

Expedia, meanwhile, slashed service fees for its Web site--used to book airplane seats, hotels and rental cars--in April. (The company is perhaps category's largest advertiser; it spent $139 million on ads last year, according to TNS Media Intelligence.) Competitors Orbitz and Travelocity quickly followed suit. Customers can now save, on average, $7 a night on a hotel by booking through those services.

This, however, costs the travel companies, which make their money on surcharges and are already feeling pinched by the economy. Expedia said on Thursday that its first-quarter net income fell 20% to $39.8 million on revenue that fell 7.6% to $635.7 million.

Orbitz changed its marketing pitch last June, as the economy began to unravel; the Chicago company rolled out a "Price Assurance" promotion that promised customers refund checks if airlines or hotels lowered rates or fares after they had booked an airplane seat or a hotel room. "If you buy a ticket and someone else buys a cheaper ticket after you, you'll be reimbursed for the difference," says Orbitz spokesman Brian Hoyt, adding that the company would "rather spend our money on our customers than buy ads on American Idol."

Not to be outdone, Travelocity launched its own "assurance" program shortly after Orbitz--but just with vacation packages. Considering the unlikelihood of two people booking the same exact flight and staying at the same exact hotel when creating a package, it's really just a clever marketing scheme--one that won't cost it a lot of money--says Carroll Rheem, a director at travel research firm PhocusWright.

Executives at the online travel companies say they hope that wooing customers now when they're tightening their purse strings will mean that these same customers will return when they are willing to spend more money on travel. Travelers tend to compare prices on at least three outlets before booking flights or hotel rooms on their preferred site, says Victoria Treyger, Travelocity's CMO. "When they actually sit down to book, they go to their preferred site."

The marketing war is likely to escalate now that there are more travel search engines, such as Kayak.com and Travelzoo's Fly.com, that make it easy for customers to compare deals offered by these big online travel companies and smaller fry in snapshot comparisons. More travelers will become aware of these sites when they start advertising more aggressively. Kayak, for one, will launch a national branding campaign with TV spots and print ads by year's end.

Airlines have chimed in with more Web-exclusive deals in the past few weeks, says Tom Parsons, founder of travel site BestFares.com. Business is down for the industry now, he says, but with Jet Blue offering $29 flights and competitors racing to match them, it may not be long before it'll pick up again. "I've seen airlines throwing in everything but the kitchen sink on airfare specials," Parsons said.

Helen Coster contributed reporting.

In Pictures: Top 10 Travel Destinations

Airlines likely to lose your luggage

Lost or damaged luggage tops the list of most vacationers' travel nightmares.

With the summer holiday season approaching, fliers may want to check out a helpful monthly consumer report from the Bureau of Transportation Statistics.

Tucked next to stats on flight delays and overall customer complaints is a section on mishandled luggage. The report covers passenger-reported cases of bags that were lost, stolen, damaged or delayed in transit.

In Depth: Airlines Least Likely To Lose Luggage

Between March 2008 and February 2009, passengers traveling with the 19 largest air carriers reported roughly five incidents of mishandled luggage per thousand passengers. Given that these airlines carried 585 million people, that's 150,000 passengers who lived through a luggage nightmare.

The airline that earned the best baggage rating may surprise travellers: low-fare AirTran Airways, headquartered in Orlando, Fla. For every 1,000 AirTran passengers, the carrier received only 2.59 reports, more than two fewer than the average and just under half the number reported by the airline in the middle of the rankings: United.

AirTran Airways spokesman Christopher White credited his carrier's success to automated luggage handling and to cooperation with security. Working efficiently with the Transportation Security Administration, he said, helped the company improve its industry-leading mishandled bag stats. "We have seamless hand-off from the airline to security and back to the airline before [baggage] goes to the side of the plane."

The worst of the 19 airlines: American Eagle Airlines. A regional operator contracted to American Airlines that serves the Eastern and Southern U.S., American Eagle carried 16 million passengers between March 2008 and February 2009, and averaged 9.13 reports per 1,000. American Eagle did not return requests for comment.

Discount airlines did disproportionately well, with JetBlue ranking fourth and Southwest, seventh. JetBlue spokesman Bryan Baldwin said that some of the advantage for low-cost carriers lay in route structure. "Every time you eliminate a touch point, you reduce the number of connecting customers." More direct flights means fewer opportunities for passengers--and luggage--to miss connections.

By contrast, regional operators under contract to major carriers performed poorly. Joining American Eagle in the bottom six were (from lowest to highest) Atlantic Southeast Airlines, Comair, Mesa Airlines, SkyWest Airlines and Pinnacle Airlines. These carriers offer connecting flights for the big airlines or maintain code-sharing agreements. Because their passengers are so frequently connecting with other flights at regional hubs, the likelihood of baggage mix-ups increases.

The major airlines had a better showing. Northwest earned third overall with 3.18 reports per 1,000 and Continental came in fifth with 3.61 reports. In the middle of the rankings, U.S. Airways took eighth with 4.17 per thousand, United Airlines scored tenth with an even five per thousand, and American, 11th, with 5.20. Delta came in at the thirteenth spot.

In the rest of the list, Hawaiian Airlines finished second (2.83), Frontier Airlines, sixth (3.89), Alaska Airlines, ninth (4.29), and Expressjet Airlines, 11th (5.56).

The data seems to reveal some good news for travelers: Airlines are mishandling fewer bags than they used to. In 2007, fliers reported between six and eight bag screw-ups per thousand. In 2008, that number fell to 4.88 per thousand.

But it may be that the numbers have come down because fewer people are flying in the economic downturn, and travelers are schlepping fewer bags. Since May 2008, most carriers have been charging for a second piece of checked luggage. Deterred by the fees, increasing numbers of fliers are leaving items at home or cramming them into carry-ons.

The December data alone show sharp improvement. Though the number of passengers only fell by 2.5 million from 2007 to 2008 (5.3 per cent) the number of baggage reports plummeted 27 per cent.

In Depth: Airlines Least Likely To Lose Luggage