This city of 110,000 on the shores of Lake Nicaragua is vacation central whether you’re a tourist visiting the country or a native Nicaraguan. Along it’s cobblestone streets, you’ll find antiquated cathedrals and buildings dating back to Spanish colonial times. The centre of the city is remarkably intact even though American military filibuster William Walker burned the city in the 1850s, razing much of it. Economic, cultural and tourist life revolves around the city’s central square, where you can hire a horse-drawn carriage, eat at one of the many food stands, take in the main food market and browse the many shops nearby. Stay at: Hotel Dario – Centrally located, comfortable rooms inside neoclassical building painted in distinct green and white, with dining and pool. Rates start at US$85. www.hoteldario.com; Casa San Francisco — Located in the historic district, rates at this attractive, quiet hotel start at $45. There’s a wading pool and rooftop deck that’s a perfect place to unwind. www.csf-hotel-granada.com
Leon
The artistic and intellectual centre of the country, Leon is home to 175,000 people and boasts Nicaragua’s national university. The city was home to the country’s beloved poet, Ruben Dario. His former house is now one of the city’s many museums. And colonial architecture, featuring grand 18th and 19th century cathedrals, fortresses and monuments, is everywhere you turn. Leon was a hotbed for the Sandinistas and the revolution in the late 1970s to ’80s, evidence of which is still around, from a number of murals to ruins and bullet holes pock-marking buildings. About 40 km from Leon are the ruins of the original Leon, located at the foot of the Momotombo volcano, which have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. Many of the country’s volcanoes may be accessed via Leon as well. Stay at: Hotel el Convento — This former convent, which was all but destroyed during the revolution, is built around a lush, gorgeous courtyard, has refreshingly cool hallways that holds a variety of art religious and otherwise. Its well-priced cafe and restaurant is recommended. Across the street is the city’s highly regarded Centro de Arte gallery and museum. Rates star at about US$85. www.hotelelconvento.com.ni; Hotel La Perla – A handsome former hacienda in the city’s centre has been painstakingly remodelled into first-class, neoclassical lodgings. Well-appointed rooms feature luxurious, hand-crafted furniture. Restaurant and bar. www.laperlaleon.com
Managua
Nicaragua’s capital city is its largest, boasts almost two-million people and has most services you’d expect to find in a major centre, such as U.S. chain stores and hotels, but also its own fascinating history and energy. Twice it the 20th century, Managua was ravaged by earthquakes, most recently in 1972. The result: A more-modern urban landscape thanks to reconstruction in the city’s centre, with a number of ruins that stand to this day as reminders of the devastation. Stay at: Seminole Plaza Hotel — Quiet, comfortable rooms within walking distance of restaurants and bars, close to the airport. Rates start at US$139; Hotel Contempo — It’s located in nearby Masaya, but well worth the 11-km jaunt there. Sleek, modern, a boutique hotel you’d expect to find in a large metropolitan centre in the U.S. or Europe. And the hospitality is outstanding. www.contempohb.com
San Juan del Sur
You’re just as likely to see a blond surfer strolling down the side streets of this ocean-side community of 15,000 as you are a ‘Nica’. At night, its beachfront avenue teems with locals and ex-pats alike frequenting the restaurants, bars and hotels. San Juan del Sur has a large port that has just begun seeing cruise-ship traffic. It’s popular with tourists as well as with real-estate developers and with the international surf-seeking crowd in search of killer waves. Oh, and the sunsets on the Pacific are magnificent. Stay at: Pelican Eyes – Hilltop condo-hotel resort boasts stunning suites and rooms, views of the perfect horseshoe bay, infinity pools, well-manicured hillside gardens. Rates start at US$190. www.piedrasyolas.com
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