So what are French poets waiting for? Surely, in a land revered for its cuisine, an ode to the much-loved macaron is long overdue.
These delicate morsels of sweet seduction may not have been food for the gods, but they were a favourite of at least one French Queen. Marie Antoinette was reportedly captivated by the airy confection, which even today can be found in fashionable Parisian cafes or bakeries such as Laduree on the Champs Elysees.
Perhaps if Marie had said, "let them eat macarons" -- instead of that faux pas about cake or brioche or whatever -- she might not have incited the wrath of revolutionaries and her descendants might now be living at the uber-fancy Chateau Versailles.
But back to the macaron. Not to be confused with a macaroon of the chewy coconut kind, a French macaron is a light meringue-based sandwich cookie filled with buttercream, ganash, jam, etc. The biscuits and filling are often tinted to match in colours that -- like all French fashions -- often change with the season.
The sweet is typical of French cuisine, skilled chefs take simple fresh ingredients -- in this case egg whites, ground almonds, sugar and icing sugar -- and whip them into something sumptuous to eat and pretty to look at.
At L'Atelier Cuisine de Patricia, we learn from teacher-owner Patricia Boussaroque that the popular confection may not be entirely French.
Many believe the original macarons were created by Italian chefs in the 1500s and later "refined by the French," Boussaroque says as she distributes fuschia-coloured aprons to students at her cooking l'atelier.
Our small group of Canadians has gathered at the second-storey school in the market area of Versailles for a cooking class. In a two-hour lesson, the Cordon Bleu trained chef will teach us how to make chicken fricassee and -- the piece de resistance -- giant pink macarons with fluffy vanilla-cream filling and raspberry coulis.
While getting started, Boussaroque confesses she prefers the Italian method of making meringue to the French. Instead of just beating the ingredients together, Italian chefs boil the sugar into a syrup before adding it to the beaten egg whites, which makes a more stable meringue that is glossier and easier to work with. This method also allows the finished macarons to be frozen.
"Most of my lessons are based on traditional French cooking but I am open minded to all kinds of cooking," Boussaroque says as she demonstrates that making macarons is "not a miracle" but it does involve many picky -- and tricky -- steps.
Considering the effort required, baking extra and freezing them for future use makes sense, so I'm with the Italians there.
The stove-top fricassee is considerably easier to make and -- along with the boneless chicken breasts, onions, mushrooms and asparagus -- has a delectable sauce made from port and heavy cream.
Once the cooking is complete, the work table is transformed into a dining table where we enjoy the fruits of our labour. Between courses, Boussaroque explains why she opened the school and her approach to cooking.
She has been giving cooking classes -- in English and in French -- since last fall. Cooking and baking are lifelong passions, but running the school is a second career for the former human resources director.
"For the rest of my work life, I wanted to be no longer under pressure. (I didn't want to work) for an international company that asks you to fire people all the time," Boussaroque says. "I wanted to do something else for the end of my career."
All of her recipes call for fresh ingredients -- nothing preserved or manufactured.
"In France, we have a saying," Boussaroque says. "A good dish is when you can recognize the taste of each ingredient."
Before class, we had joined her on a shopping foray to Versailles market, where we marvelled at the mounds of fresh seafood, tender-crisp vegetables, and a riot of cheeses from every region of France. Then we crowded into Boussaroque's favourite bakery, where it seemed as if the whole town of 90,000 were lined up for the just-baked baguettes.
A combination of indoor shops and outdoor stalls, the Versailles food market is well regarded. Many Parisians and tourists make weekend treks to the town about 18 km southwest of Paris to buy food and also browse in the antique market.
Of course, cooking and shopping are not what draw most of the three-million-plus annual visitors to the town. That would be Chateau de Versailles, the most opulent palace in France.
Started in 1624 as a hunting lodge for Louie XIII, the royal chateau evolved haphazardly over the course of 170 years, guide Cecile Delorme tells us during a private tour, adding that the various architectural styles include baroque, classic, rococo and neoclassical.
Each of its 700 ornate rooms has stories to tell -- some about the glory days of the French court, or the triumphs and tragedies of kings and queens, about wars, famine and eventually the revolution that saw the beheading of King Louis XVI and his queen consort, Marie Antoinette.
Now one of the world's most visited museums, the rooms that speak loudest are the royals' private rooms -- or Grand Apartments -- where we learn that court life was not very private for kings and queens.
Delorme says the monarchs' daily rituals, such as getting dressed and dining, were often very public events with as many as 100 people -- relatives, dignitaries, courtesans -- in attendance. Bodyguards were always nearby and slept on cots in ante-chambers outside the monarchs' bedrooms.
King Louis XIV's south-facing bedroom is said to be the most gilded room in France, reflecting his nickname -- the "Sun King."
Even brighter is the newly restored Hall of Mirrors, which almost defies description. Bedecked with crystal chandeliers and golden scuptures, the 73-metre-long hall is flanked by 17 mirrored arcades facing 17 arcaded windows, which overlook the palace gardens.
"At sunset, it looks like it's on fire. Everything shines," Delorme says, adding that unfortunately the sun usually sets when the palace is closed so few people see the spectacle.
The ceiling is adorned by paintings that illustrate the accomplishments of Louis XIV. But many of the hall's other treasures, including solid silver tables, were melted down and sold to finance wars.
Visitors could tour Versailles a dozen times and not see everything it has to offer. Various guided tours are available, including private tours on Mondays when the palace is closed to the general public, and tours that include a visit to the royal stables and a theatrical performace by the Academy of Equestrian Arts.
There are also several ways to experience the gardens -- 800 hectares of meticulously groomed lawns, flower beds, sculptures and fountains. Options include walking, hopping aboard the tram, renting a bicycle or golf cart, or joining a guided Segway tour.
Visiting either the chateau or gardens is guaranteed to be a workout, so afterward head to a local cafe and indulge in a few macarons with your coffee. Marie Antoinette would approve.
----
IF YOU GO TO VERSAILLES
GETTING THERE
We flew Air France from Toronto to Paris. Along with excellent service, the airline currently has very attractive rates. Round trip Voyageur class fares to Paris from Toronto, Montreal or Ottawa are $839 including taxes and fees. Tickets must be purchased by Feb. 20 for travel until May 6.
Air France, which is marking 60th years of service in Canada, is phasing in a new class of service -- Premium Voyageur -- on its long haul flights. The new cabin offers larger seats with more legroom, larger tray tables, computer connections, interactive video screens and noise-cancelling headphones. It will be rolled out on selected Montreal departures this spring and selected Toronto flights in October.
The airline also has a loyalty program called Flying Blue that allows members to earn points from Air France, KLM, Air Europa, Kenya Airways and Aircalin and its SkyTeam partners.
After landing at Charles De Gaulle airport, an Air France coach is a convenient and economical way to get into central Paris (15-16.5 euros one way, 24-27 euros round trip). Coaches serve every terminal at CDG and make several stops in Paris. For Air France information and reservations, see airfrance.ca or call 1 800 667 2747.
From Paris, there are frequent trains to Versaille.
TOURING INFORMATION
For information on travel to France, contact the France Tourism Development Agency -- ATOUT FRANCE -- at Franceguide.com. Also see tourisme.yvelines.fr and Versailles-tourisme.com.
For information on cooking classes at L'Atelier Cuisine de Patricia, call 01 71 42 82 42 or visit lateliercuisinedepatricia.com.
For information on Chateau de Versailles, see chateauversailles.fr and click on the English icon.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Versailles has a variety of accommodations ranging from B&Bs to five-star hotels.
A short walk from the chateau, the Pullman Versailles has winter rates from $140 euros per night including breakfast and 50% off a second night. See accorhotels.com.
Part of the Waldorf Astoria Collection, the chic Trianon Palace overlooks the gardens of Versailles. A favourite of heads of states and celebrities -- Jack Chirac, Michael Jackson, John Travolta, Sean Connery, Pierce Brosnan and the Prince of Wales have all stayed there -- the hotel also has historic connections. In 1919, the Treaty of Versailles was drafted in its Clemenceau Room.
The property includes a Gordon Ramsay restaurant with two Michelin stars, a Guerlain spa and a pool. Winter rates start as low as $172 euros per night. Packages are available. See trianonpalace.com.
Titanic Bidding for sunken Bugatti at Bonhams retromobile sale in ParisTales aboard a Baltic cruise
