Discounts wait in Vienna

Q: Does Vienna offer a discount card for city attractions similar to Toronto's City Pass?

-- B. Feder, Toronto

A: Yes, the "Vienna Card" provides more than 210 discounts on admissions to museums and attractions plus free bus, tram and underground transportation across the city. Good for 72 hours after validation, the card (18.50-euros, about $26) can be purchased online from the Vienna Tourism Board, from various hotels, at the tourist information centre on Albertinaplatz (open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.) and at the tourist info kiosk at the airport (open daily from 6 a.m. to 11 p.m.). The card comes in a 120-page booklet of coupons with instructions. See wien.info/en/travel-info/vienna-card.

Q: We recently booked a trip to Costa Rica and will be flying home through New York City. I was planning to buy some Costa Rican rum and would like to know how much I can bring back.

-- D. Leon, Toronto

A: The federal government has specific rules for bringing alcohol back from abroad. The legal limit for alcohol such as rum is a total of 1.14 litres or 40 ounces.

"If the value of the goods is more than your personal exemption, you will have to pay for both the duty and taxes, as well as provincial/territorial assessments," states the Canada Border Services Agency website, cbsa-asfc.gc.ca.

If you buy rum in Costa Rica remember to pack it in your checked baggage. You will need to go through security in New York City, which like all airports, prohibits liquids in your carry-on except those that conform to the 3-1-1 rule (3-oz -- 100 mL -- or smaller bottles of liquid that fit inside a 1 quart-sized -- or 1 litre -- bag and limited to one bag per person.

Many people buy alcohol at duty free shops in airports then find they can't carry the item aboard their connecting flights. For more on what you can and cannot bring back to Canada, read I Declare, an online document you can download at cbsa-asfc.gc.ca.

Q: I plan to visit New York City's Morgan Library and Museum in November or December. Do you have any information on their upcoming exhibitions?

-- G. Broome, Toronto

A: Founded in 1905, the Morgan is a museum, independent research library, concert venue and architectural landmark. It has a star-studded list of exhibitions year-round.

David Delacroix and the Revolutionary France: Drawings from the Louvre continues through Dec. 31. This period in French history (1789-1852) produced an incredible amount of artistic talent, and the exhibit has excellent works on paper on loan from the Louvre in Paris.

These pieces are rarely permitted to travel and the Morgan is the only venue for this important show.

For fans of Charles Dickens, the Dickens at 200 exhibit showcases the library's collection of Dickens' manuscripts and letters. Continuing through Feb. 12, 2012, the collection is the largest in the U.S. and one of two great collections in the world.

Another fascinating show features the New Years' standard Auld Lang Syne. Written by the great Scottish poet Robert Burns, the original 1793 manuscript will be on view at the Morgan along with rare printed editions, and multimedia displays.

A few years ago, the Morgan underwent a massive restoration of the original building designed by American architect Charles McKim as well as Pierpont Morgan's private library. It's open Tuesdays through Sundays (closed Mondays). Admission is $15 US for adults and $10 US for students and seniors, 65 years and older. (Free on Fridays from 7 p.m. to 9 p.m.) Contact themorgan.org or 212-685-0008.

Q: Can you snorkel around Trunk Bay in the U.S. Virgin Islands?

-- B. Deardon, Toronto

A: Yes. Part of the Virgin Islands National Park (nps.gov/viis/index.htm), Trunk Bay has one of the world's first marked underwater snorkelling trails. The self-guided trail is well protected and showcases coral reefs with a variety of tropical fish species.

Q: With the dollar so strong, our cross-border shopping trips have been more frequent. Besides malls, we are wondering what else is worth checking out in the Buffalo area this fall.

-- J. Frost, Mississauga

A: There are plenty of exhibits, festivals and other events in Buffalo year-round. For full details, consult the online events calendar from the Buffalo Convention and Visitors Bureau visitbuffaloniagara.com.

ilona@mycompass.ca

Tasty Montreal fare suits any budget

Mentioning fast food and Montreal cuisine in the same breath is probably blasphemous. Eating, after all, is passion - some say religion - there.

But you go looking for alternatives when your hotel's room service prices are ridiculous and breakfast is buffet-only at $25.01, including tax but not tip.

Or when you're scheduled to have a bang-up supper and just need something to keep your tummy from grumbling.

A dozen or more options lay literally right under my feet, in the food court of one of the huge underground retail complexes that make up what professional tour guide Ruby Roy described as "the weatherproof city.''

Food courts, an old standby for shoppers and office workers, are also a godsend for travellers who aren't on expenses.

So minutes after leaving my room, I could chose from menus as American as A&W or as Quebecois as Duo Poutine. Most were geared to the lunch crowd - food 'n drink combos for $5 and up - but at least one had breakfast items for $2.15 to $4.99.

A tiny taco from Los Dias Mexican Cuisine did the trick.

That bang-up supper was at F Bar, a new Portuguese bistro on rue Jeanne-Mance, in the Quartier des spectacles, where the big summer festivals are staged.

The server seemed to know his stuff so I went with his recommendations - seared scallops, then a special, halibut cheeks, served in a metal pot. Mopping up the buttery sauces with crusty Portuguese bread put dessert off limits.

I was travelling with eight writers and bloggers from China, Brazil and India. That meal was, by consensus, our best in four days.

And it didn't cost an arm and a leg. The five choices of "plat,'' or main course - veal, fish and duck - ran from $24 to $27. Appetizers - often called entrees in Quebec - were $11 to $15, but you can shave the bill by sharing one or going straight to the main event. They also had a bar menu with only one of six "plats'' costing more than $20. F Bar is on rue Jeanne-Mance.

Les 400 Coups, on rue Notre-Dame Est and another Roy recommendation, was more upscale, a high-ceilinged room with an original tin ceiling and a mural dominating one wall. It's small and elegant, yet none of its main courses topped $30, and a five-course tasting menu similar to what we ate was only $65.

Lunch with a view? L'Arrivage Cafe, atop Pointe-a-Calliere, Montreal's museum of archeology and history, overlooks the port. An "express menu'' of soup, salad and coffee starts at $10.95 and mains are in the high teens. It was packed when we visited.

After a few days of rich food - ie. fries cooked in duck fat - it was a relief to grab a beer (Griffon is local) and a smoked meat sandwich at Marche du Vieux Cafe on rue Saint-Laurent in Old Montreal. A sandwich with soup or salad in this fine food store and bistro-cafe is $12.95.

When it comes to eating places, Montreal is an embarrassment of riches. Ruby Roy had already shown us some, so I asked Nathalie Thivierge, a culinary guide, for three recommendations.

Two were in Old Montreal: Garde Manger, on rue Saint-Francois-Xavier, whose chef, Chuck Hughes, was the first Canadian to beat the celebrated American Bobby Flay in an Iron Chef competition; and, for lunch, Olive et Gourmando, on rue Saint-Paul Ouest, whose specialty is little sandwiches. Thivierge says both are pricey. The third, Le Brasseurs de Montreal, is a microbrewery in the southwest neighourhood of Griffintown, which she described as "well priced."

Google the name of any of the spots mentioned to find phone numbers and locations. Most also show the nearest stop for the Metro (subway), which so many Montrealers use to zip around.

Travellers admit they 'smuggle' liquids

More than a quarter of travellers admit they've smuggled liquids through airport security, either accidentally or in full knowledge they were breaking the rules.

Almost 1,000 people responded to a survey by European travel website Skyscanner.

Nearly half (42%) said the current legislation, which allows passengers to carry only 100 ml of most liquids in their carry-on luggage, is too restrictive, with 18% complaining that different airports seem to have different rules and that the regulations should be standardized.

Four percent of respondents admitted they knew the rules but purposely snuck liquids through - and got away with it.

The "100 ml rule" came into effect in 2006 after a terrorist plot to detonate liquid explosives on flights from the U.K. to Canada and the U.S. was discovered.

 

Statue of Liberty turns 125

Happy birthday to the Statue of Liberty!

One of New York City’s and, indeed, the entire world’s, most iconic landmarks, marks its 125th anniversary on Oct. 28.

It was 1886 when "Liberty Enlightening the World," a massive gift from the French to the United States was dedicated on Liberty Island.

"The Statue has evolved in meaning since she first graced our shores 125 years ago," David Luchsinger, superintendent of the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island, said in a press release. "She began as a symbol of friendship between France and the United States, evolved into a symbol of our great country, and is known today as an international symbol of freedom for people everywhere. This coming Friday is an opportunity to celebrate her complete legacy."

Events to mark the anniversary will kick off at 10 a.m. with a ceremony filled with song and performances, as well as the dedication of a gift back to the people of France. A small flotilla of government and private vessels will offer a salute to close the ceremony, reminiscent of the flotilla that sailed to Liberty Island to greet the statue in 1886.

A "torch cam" is also being installed on the torch of Lady Liberty to honour her 125th year, giving armchair tourists a bird’s-eye-view of Liberty Island from home via the EarthCam or National Park Service websites.

The day will conclude with a fireworks display by Macy’s. The 12 minute show will originate on two barges that will flank the Statue.

 

Statue of Liberty to sport webcams on torch

The Statue of Liberty is getting accessories -- with five webcams attached to the torch held high in New York harbour offering views not seen by the public in nearly a century.

The webcams go live on Friday during a ceremony on Liberty Island marking the 125th anniversary of the dedication of the copper-clad monument, which was a gift from France to the people of America.

From computers afar, viewers will be able to watch live video streams of traffic, boats and airplanes in high-resolution panoramic images showing the Manhattan skyline, the city's borough of Brooklyn and neighboring New Jersey.

"For people who don't come to the Statue of Liberty, it will be a whole new opportunity for them to see the statue, what's around it and how it fits into the whole cityscape," Stephen Briganti, president of the Statue of Liberty-Ellis Island Foundation, said in an interview on Tuesday.

Officials closed the torch to the public in 1916 during World War One, following an explosion at a nearby munitions depot, blamed on German saboteurs, that damaged the statue.

Since then, the sweeping views have been seen only by a handful of people involved in the statue's maintenance.

"It's a heck of a climb," said Briganti, who last made the difficult ascent in the statue's right arm in the 1980s.

The cameras are housed inside steel containers slightly smaller than shoe boxes, he said.

One points directly straight down, offering an unusual view of the statue's crown and anyone milling around the statue's base some 300 feet below.

"I call that the 'Hi Mom!' view," Briganti said, suggesting that visitors to the statue might arrange to wave to friends and family at home.

Two other webcams are being set up in Brooklyn, pointing at the statue.

EarthCam, a New Jersey-based webcam technology company, donated the cameras.

Internet users will be able to access the streams from EarthCam's website and the National Park Service's Statue of Liberty website.

Officials are planning a day of events on Friday on Liberty Island to mark the anniversary, including a reading of Emma Lazurus' poem "The New Colossus" by actress Sigourney Weaver and renditions of both the French and U.S. national anthems.

To mark the statue's role as a symbol of hope for immigrants seeking a better life in America, 125 immigrants will be naturalized as U.S. citizens as part of the celebration.

After the celebration, access to the statue's interior, including its crown, will be closed for about a year while the statue is renovated, although Liberty Island will remain open to visitors.

 

Canadians planning winter vacation

The global economic turmoil is not grounding Canadians, with almost two-thirds saying they still plan to take a vacation in fall or winter this year, according to a new poll.

Sixty-one per cent plan to take a holiday, compared with the 79% of Canadians who took time out in summer, says a BMO poll. One in five said they will take advantage of the strong loonie to travel outside of the country.

The U.S. remains the top external destination, with 20% saying they planned a trip south of the border and 5% expecting to travel elsewhere. Although affordability came out as the top concern for Canadians considering whether to go away, only 13% said they were using reward points to help lower costs.

BMO's 2011 Fall/Winter Travel Survey was conducted from Sept. 6 to 8, 2011, by Leger Marketing. The sample was 1,506 Canadians 18 years or older. The margin of error is plus or minus 2.5%.

 

Bon Jovi opens charity restaurant

Rocker Jon Bon Jovi has stepped onto the culinary stage and opened a restaurant -- one with no prices on the menu and only a suggested donation to cover the cost of the meal.

The JBJ Soul Kitchen, which opened on Wednesday in Red Bank, N.J., offers gourmet meals to diners who can choose to either pay a nominal charge, or volunteer their time in lieu of payment.

"At a time when one in five households are living at or below the poverty level, and at a time when one out of six Americans are food insecure, this is a restaurant whose time has come," New Jersey-born Bon Jovi said in a statement.

"This is a place based on and built on community -- by and for the community," he said of the restaurant located in a former mechanic shop.

The JBJ Soul Kitchen, which was two years in the planning, serves meals to people who have earned them through volunteering at the restaurant or at other local organizations, the Jon Bon Jovi Soul Foundation, the rocker's anti-poverty charity, said on its website.

Volunteers earn their meals through food-prep, busing tables or stocking shelves.

Cash-paying customers who pay a suggested donation of $20 for a three-course meal are also welcome at the restaurant, which sources ingredients from its own organic gardens, with natural foods also donated by local merchants.

 

How to research a hotel before booking

Q: I am researching a hotel we plan to visit but haven't found as much detail as I was hoping for on their website. Am I doing something wrong?

-- T. Lavigne, Mississauga

A: Information can be limited at some hotel websites. Try calling the property and speaking to the front desk or concierge. Major hotel chains often have toll-free reservation lines that will sometimes put you through to the property or call direct on their local line.

Another idea is to check social media sites, where travellers post comments and photos.

A new one is the Room77.com hotel database and search engine. Only about 3,000 hotels are currently listed but the site is working to build a worldwide index of every hotel room rated three-stars or better. There is a Room77.com app available through Apple, and it also provides a virtual look at the view outside your room window.

Q: Do you know of any companies that have packages to Egypt. Is it okay to travel there now?

-- B. Amato, Toronto

A: Tourists are slowly returning to Egypt.

In the summer Taleb Rifai, secretary-general of the United Nations World Tourism Organization, visited the country and said: "Throughout my visit it has been very clear that the Egyptian tourism sector is fully operational and ready to receive visitors."

While visitor numbers will certainly be off for 2011, nearly 100,000 Canadians travelled to Egypt in 2010, an increase of 8.8% from 2009, and industry publication TravelWeek reported, "Official estimates predict that nearly 11 million international tourists will visit Egypt in 2011."

For travel information, visit the Egypt Tourism Office at en.egypt.travel. In addition to the usual travel information, it has a multimedia section with video clips on popular tourist destinations like the Red Sea, the desert, The Nile, Cairo, Luxor and more.

The Egypt Tourist Authority lists over 500 holidays from Canada through companies such as Abercrombie & Kent, Adventures Abroad, APT, Canadian Travel Abroad, GM Tours, ElderTreks, Uniworld, Globus and more. A good travel agent will have more information on tours.

Q: I have enrolled in a cooking class but would also like to take a culinary vacation in Ontario. Do you know of any places that offer these?

-- O. Noor, Brampton

A: Ontario has plenty of places to expand your culinary knowledge:

-- In Nipissing Village, the vegetarian haven Piebird B&B has food-and-wellness packages with plenty of workshops. Choose from such themes as herbs for culinary and medicinal use; strawberry jam canning; vegetarian stew and homemade artisan bread; vegan baking, and more. This hideaway scores high marks for both relaxation and culinary delight. Contact 705-724-1144 or piebird.ca.

-- Norwood's Thirteen Moons has several rustic weekend retreats focusing on cooking. Upcoming themes are cooking with super foods (Nov. 6 and Mar. 6) and culinary transitions (Feb. 24-28). Package usually include two nights' accommodation in a shared room and meals. For more information and prices, contact 705-652-9329 or thirteenmoons.ca.

-- Collingwood has the Collingwood Cooking Academy, which has a great Bed and Breakfast day course for people interested in learning how to run their own B&B. Topics include finding the right property, how to market the business, and food. The package includes three hours of in class instruction, a one-night stay at Willow Trace B&B, and a hands-on two-hour lesson on cooking breakfast. Contact 705-445-9003 or collingwoodcookingacademy.com for details.

-- Niagara-on-the-Lake, known for its wines and culinary delights, will be cooking up a storm at the Wine Country Cooking School said to be "Canada's first winery cooking school." The school promotes hands-on learning with participants working in teams of two. A variety of packages for one, two and five-day culinary vacations are offered at participating properties including the Harbour House Hotel, the Shaw Club and the Riverbend Inn. Contact 905-468-8304 or winecountrycooking.com.

-- For more on culinary tourism in the province, visit Ontario Tourism at ontariotravel.net.

Send your travel questions to ilona@mycompass.ca

Spirited Traveller: Cocktails emerge in Dallas

Change is afoot in Dallas, according to barman Michael Martensen, with self-proclaimed "cocktail bars" opening at rapid-fire pace. He should know: As the proprietor of Cedars Social, which opened in Dallas just a few months ago - and a second bar slated to open soon - he's part of the trend.

"Dallas is breaking into the foodie culture, and with them come the drinkers," Martensen says. "The drinking scene is prevalent and coming on strong."

It helps that Dallas is a business-oriented city with "a hotel on every corner," he adds, as many of the new establishments are opening up within or in walking distance of these hotels to accommodate thirsty travellers.

As in other areas of Texas, tequila is the iconic Dallas spirit, particularly when mixed into a Margarita. Further, Dallas is credited with creating the frozen Margarita when Dallas restaurateur Mariano Martinez first used a soft-serve ice-cream machine to whip one up in 1971.

"You'll find a Margarita on every restaurant menu in Dallas," says Martensen. "You'll also find a Tequila Sour on every menu," a sophisticated addition to the tequila drink canon.

So where to knock back some tequila? Naturally, Martensen gives a nod to Cedars Social, where he serves a strawberry-spiked Tequila Sour in a "1960s bachelor den" setting. But he's not the only fan; earlier this month, the Dallas Observer gave Cedars the nod for "best bar" as well as "best cocktail" in Dallas.

Martensen's other picks skew toward the steakhouse genre, including Al Biernat's, where attorneys and oil men peruse the hefty wine list, and Bailey's Prime Plus - the drinks list includes the aptly named High Maintenance cocktail, made with Cryovac-infused cantaloupe Milagro tequila and garnished with melon-mezcal foam.

Beyond the steakhouse, Martensen suggests a post-deal celebratory cocktail at Marquee Grill and Bar, with a view of Highland Park and a drink menu created by New York mixologist Jason Kosmas. Look for the Trial Margarita, made with "found fruit" and Texas honey.

Further afield, business travellers staying at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek can find excellent drinks at the Mansion Bar, such as the Marga Dita, sassed up with chipotle and a touch of rose syrup.

RECIPE: Tequila Por Mi Amante (Courtesy of Michael Martensen)

This refreshing Tequila Sour, served at Cedars Social in Dallas, dates back to 1937. Translated, the name means "tequila for my lover".

2 ounces Don Julio silver tequila infused with fresh strawberries

½ ounce lemon juice

½ ounce simple syrup or cane syrup

Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Shake and strain into an ice-filled Collins glass. Top with club soda.

 

Walking ghosts of Lewiston

LEWISTON, N.Y. -- Niagara-on-the-Lake residents say spirits from the past haunt their community.

Likewise, locals in the tiny village of Lewiston N.Y., just across the Niagara River on the American side of the border make the same claim.

I decided on a Saturday evening to find out if there were any spirits hanging out in the lovely village of Lewiston.

To determine if there were any ghosts I joined about 200 brave souls who were about to take a Marble Orchard Ghost Walk Tour. These 1 1/2 -hour walks occur every Saturday evening in September and October beginning at precisely 7 p.m. The cost is $12 for adults and kids 12 and under $6.

The last walk this year is on Oct. 29. A word of caution, bring along a lump of salt or a turkey vulture feather to ensure you don't bring any of these ghost back home with you.

We started the eerie walk on a night filled with a full moon. It doesn't get any spookier then this folks. Eva Nicklas, who deliciously portrays the hoity-toity Queen Bee, Sally Tryon of historic Lewiston said, "This is a walk on the dark side where we learn about the grim and ghastly deeds of Lewiston's best and worst. Even though these events occurred a very long time ago these ghost still haunt our village."

She cautioned me, not to walk on any of their graves or I might bring someone home with me.

OK, I'm not that superstitious but I admit I was very careful where I walked.

There are about a dozen re-enactors who portray various characters from Lewiston's grisly past. As you meet these folks along the way you're encouraged to shine a flashlight on them as they speak. The effect is spooky. Even though I didn't see any ghosts I did feel their "spirits'" were amongst us.

The walk begins at historic Frontier House (circa 1824) on Center Street. We all looked carefully to see if we could spot the silhouette of a young lady or an elderly man who supposedly hangs out here. Nothing.

We moved across the street to explore past historic haunted buildings. On the front steps of the Lewiston Museum that was once the St. Paul's Episcopal Church (circa 1835) we met our first re-enactor. Kathryn Sirianni brought the character of Catherine Hustler alive. Catherine, along with her husband, owned Hustler's Tavern. It's where the cocktail was reportedly first invented in the early 1800's. She told a classic ghost story that put chills up my spine. I won't give it away. You have to be there to appreciate it.

We moved next to the Village Cemetery where it got even creepier.

Tim Henderson brilliantly portrayed Josiah Tryon, a local tailor and the deacon of a Presbyterian church. He stands beside his tombstone and recounts tales about how he and a group of volunteers broke the law and secretly escorted fugitives to Canada via the Underground Railway. It's recorded that he hid most of these slaves in the cellar of his brother and sister-in-law Sally Tryon's mansion that still exists today on the banks of the Niagara River.

Frank Filicetti, as Bates Cook dressed all in black related graveyard etiquette. Did you know why in a Christian cemetery graves are placed with feet to the east? That's so when you stand up in your afterlife you'll be facing the Lord. When you see a cherub on a tombstone it's almost always the grave of a youngster. Listen carefully to hear how the term, "dead ringer" came about.

Filicetti has us all on edge when he related the tale of Skadotti, a man-beast that continues to live on the edge of the Niagara Escarpment that sits nearby. Don't be scared when you hear the beast howl. It's only a tale -- or is it?

For Karen Scalzo and Nancy Sexton of North Tonawanda it was the first time they took the walk. They told me, "It was fascinating, very educational, interesting and spooky."

Contact George Bailey at wonderful.life@sympatico.ca

- - -

HOW TO GET THERE

From Niagara, Ont. take the Lewiston- Queenston Bridge to Highway 104 East to 476 Center Street, downtown Lewiston, N.Y.

Marble Orchard Ghost Walks -- www.artcouncil.org/events or 716-754-0166.

 

Weird, wonderful Wales

LLANWRTYD WELLS, Wales -- Drinking and cycling may be inadvisable, even illegal in some places, but not in this town -- at least not during the annual Real Ale Wobble. The wacky, non-competitive event -- which takes place on Nov. 19 this year and marks the start of the 10-day Mid Wales Beer Festival -- involves participants cycling on routes ranging from 24 to 35 km through the Cambrian Mountains while quaffing ale made at the Heart of Wales Brewery.

By now, you're either thinking "that sounds like fun," or "how irresponsible!" But before becoming outraged by the potential dangers of guzzling a few brewskies on two wheels, you may be relieved to know the wobble is an off-road event. The only person you may slightly hurt is yourself (if you don't pad yourself with plenty of extra clothing).

The wobble is just one of many quirky events and attractions in Wales, a country that seems enamoured with anything offbeat. That's actually part of its charm. Along with the stunning scenery, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and a whopping 641 castles, you'll find a lopsided church, a "bleeding" Yew tree (in Nevern), and the smallest house in Britain.

The same outfit that organizes the Real Ale Wobble, Green Events, has a slew of other kooky annual events, including Man vs. Horse, Chariot Racing, and, perhaps the one that gets the most media coverage, the World Bog Snorkelling Championship, which also takes place in Llanwrtyd Wells.

It involves snorkelling two lengths -- totalling 109 metres -- in a cold and murky peat bog. The event, which takes place every August, typically attracts about 200 competitors from around the world. Oh, and if you wear a "fancy dress" you only have to complete one lap!

A few places I discovered or learned about while travelling around this country (sober in a car, not tipsy on a bike):

Small town, big name

Pity the traveller on the island of Anglesey who stops to ask for directions to a curious village with one of the world's longest names -- Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch! Never mind that it's 58 letters long, how exactly would you pronounce it? I would sooner memorize what it means: "Saint Mary's Church in a hollow of white hazel near the swirling whirlpool of the church of Saint Tysilio with a red cave."

A popular thing to do in this community of about 3,000 mostly Welsh-speaking souls, is have your photo taken next to a sign (such as the one at the railway station) of the village's name. Apparently you can also call the village Llanfair PG or Llanfairpwll, for short.

Bog snorkelling is not for the faint of heart. Participants in the championship must snorkel through a cold murky bog in Llanwrtyd Wells, Wales. (Courtesy Visit Wales)

Planning a trip? App lets friends help

A new mobile app enables travellers to plan trips with a little help from their friends.

The app, called Trippy, links the users with friends in their social networks who have information on a particular city, either through living, studying, or travelling there, who can offer recommendations.

"We're in a less is more time now. If you want information on Tokyo, there are a thousand different sites, each with a thousand different ideas, reviews and comments that you're forced to sift through," said J.R. Johnson, founder and CEO of Trippy.

"You need your friends who know you best to narrow the field and tell you where you should be spending your time."

The app is based on the idea that friends have an understanding of the likes and dislikes and the personal circumstances of the person planning the trip.

It also allows users to access their itinerary while traveling, along with their friends' tips for each venue. Each venue is plotted on a map, complete with its address and phone number.

Users can also create a trip album and share photos directly from the venues that their friends recommended.

"That's something that falls through the cracks sometimes. Getting that thank you or acknowledgement back that they took you up on something you said," said Johnson.

Hotels can be booked directly through the Trippy website, which is how the company plans to generate revenue.

Although there are many companies building applications on the social graph to deliver personalized recommendations, Johnson said the travel industry has been slow to adopt the technology.

"In 1999, user-generated content was new and hot, and crowd-sourcing was what everyone was talking about at the time," said Johnson, who founded travel review website VirtualTourist, which was bought by Expedia in 2008.

But Johnson said fake reviews have hindered the crowd-sourcing model. He cited a recent study by Cornell University researchers who developed a computer algorithm for detecting bogus reviews on hotel websites.

"If people are building algorithms to detect this then you know it's a big problem," he said.

Competitors include Gogobot, a similar travel site that is also aiming to tailor travel recommendations based on a user's social network, although there is less emphasis on the collaborative aspect.

The Trippy app is available on the iTunes store.

 

48 hours in laid-back Niamey

Nestled on the banks of the Niger River, Niamey stands at the crossroads of the Sahel and sub-Saharan Africa with a population of nearly 1 million people who take pride in their city’s reputation as one of the continent’s most laid-back capitals.

Unlike the 32 dignitaries of former Libyan leader Muammar Gaddafi’s regime who have sought refuge here but remain under surveillance with limited movement, you will be able to visit some of the panoramic countryside which surrounds Niamey, enjoy all the local cuisine on offer and hit the nightlife.

Due to kidnapping threats from al Qaeda in the Islamic Maghreb, several Western embassies have issued travel warnings limiting non-essential travel to Niger and visits outside the capital especially to the north of the country are forbidden.

But if you are a traveller with some experience in visiting difficult places, Reuters correspondents with local knowledge can help you get the most out of 48 hours in the usually relaxed and friendly city of Niamey with its tree-lined streets despite soaring temperatures.

Friday

5 p.m. Check into one of Niamey’s fine hotels on the east bank of the Niger River with a view of river and the plains beyond. You have the choice between four-star accommodation — the Gaweye or Grand hotel where prices range from about 65,000 CFA francs ($134) per night — or a budget hotel such as the Sahel or Terminus further up the road for half that price.

6 p.m. Hire a local taxi for about 5,000 CFA francs an hour or 30,000 CFA francs per day and head out to the Kayergorou dune, about 20 km outside Niamey, on the west bank of the Niger.

Atop the dune, witness the magnificent orange afterglow as the sun sets on the horizon. If possible, pack a picnic basket with a bottle of bubbly to toast the sunset.

From the desert dune, you can also admire Niger’s contrasting geographic relief. Looking eastward, you can see the silver outline of the Niger meandering southward, leaving in its wake, a lush marshland on both banks.

8 p.m. Back in Niamey; make your way to the terrace of the Grand Hotel with a view of the river, to sample its famous brochette - grilled meat kebabs, washed down with the local Biere Niger, popularly called "La Conjoncture."

The beer was named after the French term "conjoncture economique" following a severe economic crisis in the mid 1980s which forced the local brewer to scale down the size of the bottle but left the price unchanged, making it affordable for hard-hit consumers. The popular bar at the terrace sometimes hosts a jazz band on Thursday and Sunday nights.

10 p.m. Catch a cab and go check "La Flotille" Bar Restaurant on banks of the river where the Orchestre du Sahel, an ensemble of Nigerien musicians plays music from around the world on Fridays and Saturdays.

Saturday

9 a.m. After breakfast, go shopping and sightseeing at Niamey’s markets, starting with the Grand Marche, as the name suggests, the big market of the capital. You can buy anything from colourful fabrics to fresh fruit and local spices.

10 a.m. Continue the shopping and sightseeing tour at the spectacular Kataco market and visit the meat section at the edge of the market where cowhides, legs, heads and tails are brought from the abattoir to be chopped, de-boned, washed, roasted and sold in the local market or exported to neighbouring Nigeria, Benin and Ghana.

12:30 p.m. Head back to the hotel to cool down and refresh. Drink a lot of water. By midday, temperatures in Niamey can rise as high as 40 degree Celsius (104 degrees Fahrenheit).

1 p.m. Lunch at Le Pilier restaurant. One of Niamey’s finest restaurants, Le Pilier is an Italian eaterie favoured by expatriates. A wide variety of dishes are served including fresh pasta, cheeses and tiramisu for dessert. If you are back in the evening for dinner, try the lamb tagine with prunes and almonds served with couscous. Beer is served in iced-cold mugs.

2:30 p.m. Take the scenic drive to the Koure Biosphere Reserve, about 60 km outside Niamey on a very good road to see a herd of the last-surviving West African giraffes. If you are lucky, during the rainy season, from June to September, you will not need to drive far into the savannah to spot them and get really close as they feed on the acacia shrubs.

5:30 p.m. Back in the city, visit Niamey’s racecourse. You may catch a race on a Saturday evening or watch jockeys train their horses.

6:30 p.m. Visit Niamey Grand Mosque constructed with financial aid from former Libyan leader Muammar Gaddafi. The guard can give you a guided tour and take you up the minaret for a splendid view of the city.

8 p.m. After rest, hit Niamey’s Saturday night circuit where several open-air bars and restaurants (known locally as "maquis") are ready to cater for your needs. You can kick off the night with dinner at the popular Maquis 2000. Food from across west Africa is served in a convivial atmosphere. You can also try the Djinkounme, which also serves popular Togolese and Nigerien dishes.

10 p.m. You have the choice to cap off the night at Niamey’s trendy Alizee bar discotheque at the corniche on the bank of the river and dance to the latest tunes at its open air dancefloor with a view of the river. The El Rai night club at the Gaweye Hotel is the scene for Niamey’s young hip crowd while the Cloche is a favoured spot with expats and an edgier crowd.

Sunday

9 a.m After breakfast, a visit to Niger’s national museum and zoo is a must. The museum is described as among the best of West African national museums with its brightly coloured blue and white buildings. Artifacts of Nigerien history and customs are on display and some are on sale including traditional homes, instruments and costumes.

11 a.m. Go art and craft shopping at the Artisan Village in Wadata were local craftsmen work cattle and other animal rawhides to produce handbags, belts, sandals, small decorative boxes, and other items. You can watch them deftly create an item for you if you have the time to spare.

Also visit the Tuareg craft market in the Chateau I district where you will find handmade silver jewelery with traditional Tuareg motifs.

1 p.m. After lunch, head down to the river for a long leisurely canoe ride to spot hippos and view rice farms on the banks of the river. You can hire a covered motorized canoe for a reasonable price especially in a group or family depending on how far you want to go.

8 p.m To cap off your stay in Niamey, reserve a table at the Tabakady restaurant, known as Niamey’s finest eatery. The French restaurant is known for its excellent cuisine and charming decor with striking photos of the desert and Sahel life on the walls.

Canadian masters showcased in London

While travelling overseas, Canadians often go to art exhibitions showcasing European masters. But starting Oct. 19, they can view art by Canadian masters in Europe.

That's when Painting Canada: Tom Thomson and the Group of Seven opens at London's Dulwich Picture Gallery. The exhibition of 122 landscapes -- most displayed with their original sketches -- includes not only iconic works from public institutions (the National Gallery of Canada, the Art Gallery of Ontario, the McMichael Canadian Collection, to name a few) but also a significant number of seldom-seen paintings from private lenders.

Dulwich director Ian Dejardin is the exhibit's lead curator. A long-time fan of the ground-breaking Canadian artists, Dejardin hand-selected each painting -- everything from Thomson's The Jack Pine and The West Wind to Fred Varley's Stormy Weather, Georgian Bay, to Lawren Harris' Isolation Peak.

In Toronto recently to promote the show, Dejardin said the works are extraordinary not only for their originality and sense of place but also because of the rigours faced by the artists. Not many painters had to "carry a canoe" through the woods or venture into "wilderness" to follow their muse.

Dejardin said the exhibit is "huge" for Dulwich -- some 30,000 people are expected to visit -- and will be the highlight of the gallery's 200-anniversary celebrations. He called the generosity shown by lending institutions "startling."

"We asked for the crown jewels ... it was a little like asking the Louvre for the Mona Lisa -- and you agreed!"

Dejardin confesses to having particular admiration for Thomson's work. And the painter's sketchbox will have pride of place at the entrance to the exhibit, which "begins with Tom Thomson and ends with Lawren Harris ... with a wonderful journey in between."

In addition to the show, Dulwich has hired Liz Jory as a Canadian Teaching Artist in Residence, and there is a trans-Canada blog by Julian Beecroft, who is travelling across the country visiting the landscapes that were the inspiration for the paintings (see dulwichonview.org.uk). A mobile app will soon be released that will take users on an artistic cyber-tour.

The show continues through Jan. 8 in London, then travels to the National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design in Oslo (Jan. 29-May 13) and the Groninger Museum in the Netherlands (June 3-Oct. 28).

Bubble artshow is first step to flying city

Shimmering giant bubbles carpeted with exotic plants are suspended within the vaulted hallway of a former Berlin railway station, in a new exhibition of the artworks of Tomas Saraceno.

Visitors can enter the soap-like bubbles and experience a sense of floating in a futuristic galaxy at Berlin's contemporary art museum and former station, Hamburger Bahnhof.

The "Cloud Cities" exhibition, which runs until January 15, aims to offer a utopian vision of architecture and to stimulate contemplation on space and the earth's fragile ecology.

Saraceno, 38, says he wants to bring people who can no longer see the stars due to light pollution to a better awareness of the way the earth is floating in a galaxy.

"We are flying at the very moment, the question is: are you aware of it?" said Saraceno, who is something of a renaissance man bridging science and art in his works.

"These bubbles are biospheres, like the earth which is flying around the sun at a very high speed."

The Argentine artist, who prefers to describe himself as a "citizen of planet earth," studied architecture and art in Buenos Aires and Frankfurt, as well as completing a NASA space program in Silicon Valley.

Ultimately he aims to create a flying city of his biosphere-bubbles, which he says would lift skywards as the sun heated up the interior and the air pressure changed within. He uses plants with no roots, as earth would weigh the bubbles down.

"You feel like you are in another realm, like an astronaut," said nine-year old museum visitor Jan Benno, excitedly bouncing around in one of the bubbles suspended above the ground. "Or like a fly caught in a spider's web."

Saraceno has exhibited works worldwide including at the 2009 Venice Biennale but this is the first exhibition to show 20 of his bubbles in one go.

INTERACTIVE SPIDER'S WEB

Saraceno, who is wary of explaining his work too directly, wants museum-goers' physical interaction with the artworks to stimulate their own imagination and thought processes.

Twenty plastic bubbles of varying sizes, some covered with plants, are strung from a wire spider web sprawling within the massive Hamburger Bahnhof, which served as the terminus for trains from Hamburg in the 19th century.

Saraceno has long been fascinated by the strength and flexibility of spider webs, creating giant webs for his Biennale show "Galaxies Forming along Filaments, like Droplets along the Strands of a Spider's Web."

"Scientists and journalists try to explain the geometry of the universe as a three-dimensional spider web," said Saraceno, who, with arachnologists, scanned Black Widow webs into a computer in order to conceive how to construct one himself.

Steep, rickety ladders lead up to the two largest bubbles, with diameters of 7 and 12 meters. Inside, the exhibition appears from another, muted, perspective. It feels like a bouncy castle and when you move, the web of wires stretches.

Saraceno says he wants to reflect on social and environmental interconnectedness: "By moving one, the whole system reverberates through space conveying a sense of responsibility."

He added: "By building a flying city, we may learn how to live better and more sustainably on a flying earth."

Visitors must carefully close flaps behind them on entering the bubbles to sustain an adequate level of air pressure. If one bubble deflates, it impacts the whole constellation. The plants, inside or covering the bubbles, are carefully kept humid.

"It is a very delicate equilibrium when you are trying to build up an ecosystem," he said. "You have to have the right temperature, the right amount of air."

FLOATING MUSEUM?

Saraceno says he was exciting about using the space of the former station, built in neoclassical style in the mid 19th century. The station was turned into a traffic museum in the early 20th century, and finally into an art museum in 1996.

"It's like nothing I've ever seen before," said 80-year old museum-goer Lorna Mattison, from Britain, gazing up at the bubbles. "And very Berlin: enterprising and forward-looking."

Saraceno, who caused some consternation among his architect colleagues when he said he wanted to create a floating city, says he is now working with engineers on a floating museum.

While he likes Berlin, he also misses the sun of his native Argentina, and a floating museum would enable him to get above the city's grey cloud-cover.

"People talk about traveling exhibitions, but what if the museum itself was traveling?" asked Saraceno. "At the moment, it is just in my mind, but hopefully it will catalyze someday!"

 

Tour of Montreal tasty culinary treat

You can take a guided culinary walking tour of Montreal for $55, including samples.

But there are a couple of do-it-yourself options as well.

A writing trip last month put me in touch with all three.

Nathalie Thivierge guided our group around Old Montreal.

First stop was Les Delices de L'Erable, specializing in maple products. I knew Quebec produced most of the maple syrup in Canada. I didn't know there were five types.

Assistant manager Mark McDonough, who was dispensing information and samples, told us they range from light to the late-season amber, the richest.

Nor did I know maple syrup had fewer calories than honey. Good thing, given what I saw next.

A tall, handsome, impossibly slim young man who looked as though he'd stepped out of a high-fashion ad bought a 100-millilitre bottle of syrup, unscrewed the top and stood nonchalantly swigging it like soda pop while chatting with friends.

Even McDonough was surprised.

"Some people love it that much,'' he remarked.

Our other two stops were Europea Espace Boutique, where the servers were scrambling to serve tiny pastries and coffee to a larger tour group, and Marche de la Villette, a cute little place that's a butcher's, deli and restaurant rolled into one.

Visites de Montreal does 2 1/2-hour tours of Old Montreal and Little Italy every Saturday, May through October. Visit vdmglobal.com/en/tours-individual.html.

You could do this tour on your own for the cost of whatever you consume. Marche de la Villette, which Thivierge said is popular with folks working in the area, could double as a lunch stop.

I'd add two Montreal landmarks -- St-Viateur Bagel, 263 St-Viateur St., and Schwartz's, a deli at 3895 Saint-Laurent Blvd.

St-Viateur operates several cafes but the original bakery, started in 1957, is an authentic experience. Open 24 hours, it's piled high with bags of flour. Stepping in on a wet, chilly day, the heat and the fragrance from the ovens was a real welcome.

Saul Restrepo, busy making dough, told me they Fedex bagels all over the place and ship them frozen to Metro stores in Ontario.

Their hand-rolled bagels are lighter and fluffier than any store-bought ones I've tried. One bite of a fresh one and the difference was obvious.

Schwartz's, open since 1928, is even more famous. Our guide thought its smoked meat was still the best in town. I have memories of a sandwich so thick I had to practically unhinge my jaws.

The cheapest tour would be to one of the city's four public markets.

Jean-Talon, in Little Italy, covers 3 1/2 city blocks and may be the biggest outdoor one north of Mexico.

Guide Ruby Roy, who happens to lives nearby, said it's strictly food, with 90% of it coming from near Montreal.

The fruits and vegetables displayed one of three types of flag denoting whether they were local or imported. A fleur-de-lis, for example, meant grown in Quebec.

You can nibble, sip and munch your way around -- for free. Besides maple syrup, Quebec is renowned for cheese -- more than 250 kinds are made there, more, they boast, than in France.

I had a sliver of blue at a stall whose name I didn't note, sampled some of the 40 types of olive oil stocked at Olive & Olives, but couldn't wait for the corn to boil at Le Rois du Mais, which cooks two kinds for customers to try before they buy.

Not that I needed it. We'd just breakfasted at a market bakery, Premiere Moisson: steaming bowls of cafe au lait, apricot pastries, chocolate almond croissants (their specialty), fresh baguettes and cretons, an oh-so-tasty-but-oh-so-bad-for-you Quebec pate, to spread on them.

Doug English can be reached at denglishtravel@gmail.com or by mail c/o London Free Press, P.O.E. Box 2280, London, Ont. N6A 4G1.

Montmartre vintner bottles a bit of Paris

The famous hill of Montmartre, Paris' bohemian enclave of artists, cafes and cabarets, is well known for its Sacre Coeur church, its spectacular views, and a flurry of tourists.

But a closer look along the slopes of its steep incline reveals some 16,000 square feet (1,500 square metres) of Pinot Noir and Gamay vines -- the makings of up to 2,000 bottles of "wine of Montmartre" every year.

It has taken 15 years for vintner Francis Gourdin to cajole these temperamental vines into what he calls an "honest red wine that has found its audience."

In 1995, the mayor of the Paris neighborhood where the vineyards lie set Gourdin the challenge of turning around the reputation of Montmartre wine, which, according to a salty centuries-old proverb, was more famous for its diuretic properties than its bouquet.

"When the mayor contacted me, I warned that I wouldn't perform miracles, but I promised to make a proper red wine," said Gourdin.

"The clos Montmartre has always had a bad reputation," said the 50-something whose grandparents were vintners before him. "But today, it's a real wine, a deep red. Beforehand, it had an indeterminate color, more or less rose."

In the past decade and a half, Gourdin has improved the soil quality and the irrigation system of the small vineyard that has its roots in Gallic-Roman times. Nuns from a nearby abbey tended grapes on these slopes until the end of the 18th century and in 1930, the city of Paris saved the plot by rejecting a bid to build an apartment building, opting to plant new vines instead.

"It's not an easy vineyard because it faces full North," said Gourdin, who notes that nevertheless he doesn't have a problem with urban pollution or lead in the soil.

Gourdin sold his wines over the weekend for 40 euros ($53.61) a bottle at a "Fete des Vendanges," or grape harvest fair, held each year in Montmartre since 1934. The profits will go toward social programs funded by the local mayor.

Festival organizers said Tuesday that rain failed to keep wine enthusiasts away from Montmartre and Gourdin said the wine was well received.

"It was perfect, just like every year!"

 

Top 10 travel budget busters

Last-minute flights and getaways are sometimes the way to go if your goal is to travel on the cheap. But when it comes to avoiding extra travel costs, it's planning ahead that's the guaranteed remedy. Online travel experts Cheapflights.com offers its top 10 budget busting travel mistakes for travellers to avoid. Reuters has not endorsed this list:

1. Keep it light ... don't overpack

Fliers nowadays aren't just dealing with the ever-ballooning baggage fees. They're also dealing with weight limits, which unfortunately have come down as the price of fuel has gone up. The penalty for going over weight is high enough that passengers are unloading clothes in the middle of airports just to beat associated fees. Beyond that, having more bags than you can carry leads to porter and bellboy costs every time you move from point A to B. Our tip: Plan your wardrobe ahead of time and pack versatile staples - like a black dress or nice pair of jeans - to save luggage space.

2. Currency gotchas

Exchange rates matter, so be sure to research the currency value of whatever country you're travelling to before making pricey flight decisions. Destinations in Canada, Australia and pretty much anywhere in Western Europe currently boast strong currencies, so instead of Paris, try Budapest; instead of London, try Prague; and instead of Vancouver, try Hanoi. Obviously swapping Canada out for Vietnam is a bit extreme, but it pays - literally - to know how much the Vietnamese Dong offers in getting the biggest bang for your bucks. Also, be smart about where you change your currency (not at the airport).

3. Weather whoops

An amazing number of people don't check the forecast before taking off on a trip. The result: they end up the lucky owners of overpriced sweatshirts, flip flops and umbrellas. While an I heart London hoodie and Minnie Mouse umbrella may serve as lasting souvenirs, they can also burn up your pocket-change before you even leave the hotel lobby.

4. Keep in touch ... without the phone charges

Roaming, data chargers, third party carriers - there are as many ways to rack up extra costs as there will be zeroes added to your phone bill. But only if you aren't paying attention. Before departure, call your cell phone company to ensure you understand exactly what your provider charges its customers abroad. To avoid a devastating bill, upgrade temporarily to an international calling plan, use local Wi-Fi, invest in a SIM card, or - if you're really brave - leave your phone at home.

5. Forgotten tech toys

Tech-savvy travellers should write a checklist - whether on an iPad or pad of paper - of travel essentials. Free Wi-Fi at your local airport is useless if you've left your computer's adapter plugged in at home or the office. Catalog the items you use and their accessories to guarantee chargers, batteries, earbuds and other often-forgotten gadgets make it out the front door. Otherwise, you may find yourself taking a big bite out of your budget by paying airport prices for duplicate tech toys.

6. Following the crowd

Cut costs on your next vacation by going off the beaten path or dodging your destination's high season. Push your ski vacation in British Columbia back to the spring and avoid January's packed mountains. Or take the kids out of school early in the year for a long weekend in Disney; the parks are significantly less crowded and nearby beaches offer just as much 80 degree charm as they do in summer months. With autumn around the corner, schedule an autumn foliage tour in North Carolina and skip the New England cluster. Savvy planning and a few pulled strings are all it takes.

7. Tips for service ... different in every country

Do your research and learn the customary tipping habits of whatever country you're visiting. Mexican servers expect a 10-15% tip for sit-down service, while in Fiji, tipping is discouraged and almost no one tips the bartender at pubs in Britain.

8. Buy insurance

A travel emergency, whether as simple as a cancelled flight or as scary as a hurricane or heart attack, can simultaneously take the fun out of a trip and leave you with a massive bill. Protect yourself against unexpected hotel and transportation costs - or uncovered doctors or hospital charges - by investing in insurance. Don't know where to start? Check out our travel tip on buying travel insurance.

9. Overlooking ground transportation

Stepping off a long-haul flight often times results in stepping into an expensive form of transportation. If frugal travel is your priority, pass on the cab and opt instead for a form of public transportation from the airport. Research ahead of time - our flight guides are a good place to start - to identify what trains, trolleys, ferries and other modes of cheap transport could replace a high-priced taxi or private car service. In Chicago, for example, a metered cab costs passengers $35-40 to get downtown. A short ride on the "L" - Chicago's elevated train system - is only $2.25.

10. Frequent flier miles ... don't miss out

Though it's a hard commitment to make, loyalty to airlines, credit cards and hotels pays off. Make the effort to fly with a certain few airlines - typically the heavy hitters based at your local airport - and register as a frequent flier to qualify for free flights and travel savings. Also consider using credit cards linked to major airlines.

 

Tickled pink on Bonaire

Wherever you go on this tiny Caribbean island, flamingos are sure to follow. Okay, maybe they don't so much follow you, as precede you. The slender pink birds seem to make an appearance, in one form or another, at so many of the island's attractions, they almost act as harbingers of places you should visit.

During three days on the island, I encounter them at a national park, a sanctuary, an open-air market in the capital city Kralendijk, and even in somebody's garden! And I'm not even visiting in the spring, which is nesting season and the best time to see the birds.

Turns out the flamingo is the national bird of Bonaire (as well as a few other countries). The island is home to no fewer than 10,000 of these graceful creatures and is one of the largest flamingo breeding grounds in the western hemisphere.

In Kralendijk, a flamingo in flight is the logo on the sign for the tourist information office, where you can pick up good maps and brochures. The bird is also immortalized in plaster-work art on the facade of at least one building, while at local shops and open-air craft markets, the flamingo seems to be the creature most frequently featured on the vast array of souvenirs from beach towels to salt and pepper shakers.

Yet, for all that, the country actually has another claim to fame -- as a world-class diving (and snorkelling) destination. Its spectacular coral reefs and tropical fish are part of the Bonaire Marine Park, which incorporates the island's entire coastline and the nearby islet of Klein Bonaire.

Although it doesn't have as many long sandy beaches as other Caribbean islands (most of the beaches here are full of coral), it makes up for it with its marine life, laid-back vibe, and -- for an island its size -- several surprisingly good restaurants.

One of these is Sunset Bar and Grill, which claims to have the best burgers on the island. But for a true measure of chef Kirk Gosden's impressive culinary skills, I'd recommend items such as tortellini, seafood chowder or spotted lobster accompanied by an exceptional shellfish infused butter. Divine!

Located in the southern Caribbean, 81 km from Venezuela, Bonaire is small -- only 290 sq km and a population of about 15,000 -- with an absence of large-scale tourism development. That is part of its appeal and one reason for its high visitor return rate. Together with Aruba and Curacao, it forms a group referred to as the ABC islands, all of which share Dutch heritage.

Few other Caribbean islands are as zealous about protecting their environment as Bonaire. On one snorkelling excursion, our guide warns us that anyone who damages the fragile slow-growing coral by touching or standing on the reef will be asked to return to the boat. And the Flamingo Reserve, on the southern tip of the island, is off-limits to vistors (in order not to disturb the birds) although it's possible to spot them from the road, as we did.

Flamingos gravitate to the island's many salt pans, which contain their food source -- the tiny pink brine shrimp that give the birds their pink colour. Washington Slagbaai National Park has at least seven salt pans, and we see the birds at a few, but the varied natural landscape is the real attraction.

It's possible to hike or drive through the 14,820-hectare park, which is on the site of a former plantation that once produced aloe and charcoal. Short on time,

we choose to drive, passing dramatic rock formations, picturesque and secluded beaches, a blow hole, a lake and Mt. Brandaris, Bonaire's highest peak at 241 metres.

It wasn't surprising to see flamingos in the park but what are they doing in Yenny Rijna's backyard? "Yenny's Garden" is an offbeat visitor attraction just off Kralendijk's main street. Its entrance is guarded by life-sized dolls, including one seated on a motorcycle and another of a woman with a bowl of fruit on her head. Many more of these characters, wearing castoff clothes and assorted jewellery, are found inside the gate, along with an eclectic collection of animal skulls, conch shells, paintings of local scenes, and kitschy decorations that sit atop cactus plants.

Around the back, past the turtle pond and near the well, several flamingos are drinking water from a kiddie pool. Yenny, who is throwing fish pellets to the birds, and speaking to them as if they're her pets, tells me her husband isn't crazy about her pastime of turning other people's trash into art, but that her grandchildren love the fantasy land she has created. A few curious visitors also stop in every day.

"Some people come just to see the flamingos," she admits.

I'm not surprised.

For more, check tourismbonaire.com.

Brooklyn earns distinction as dining destination

Forget Manhattan. Brooklyn is vying to become New York City's hip and cutting-edge dining destination.

"We got everything here in Brooklyn. They can keep Manhattan," said John Coppola, co-owner of the grilled sandwich trunk, Foodfreaks.

The 31-year-old native of Brooklyn, one of New York's City's five boroughs, and brothers David and Stephen Cusato are among a new breed of ambitious cooks who think they can succeed outside of Manhattan.

Cheaper rents in growing neighbourhoods have allowed chefs of diverse backgrounds to elevate hot dogs and other comfort food or popularize foreign dishes like jerk chicken.

Food critics seem to agree that Brooklyn has arrived as a foodie haven.

Last year, the Michelin restaurant guide gave two stars to Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare -- the first such distinction for a Brooklyn eatery.

Brooklyn still lags behind Manhattan, which has nine two-star Michelin restaurants and five eateries with three stars, the highest rating. But earning culinary prestige does not seem to be a priority for Brooklyn chefs.

Joshua Sharkey abandoned working at high-end Manhattan restaurants more than two years ago and partnered with another chef, Brandon Gillis, to open Bark Hot Dogs.

"We had the underdog mentality. We were the 'other borough.' We now have some of the best food in the city," Sharkey said during the recent New York City Wine & Food Festival.

Less financial pressure has fuelled more risk-taking among Brooklyn chefs and allowed restaurant owners to focus on cultivating a regular clientele.

"I think Brooklyn chefs are not afraid to make an impact. There is a lot of freedom because the rent is lower," Elise Rosenberg, a co-owner of the restaurant Colonie said.

Colonie's head chef Brad McDonald has worked in the kitchens of acclaimed chefs, including Alain Ducasse, Thomas Keller and Rene Redzepi.

Brooklyn's burgeoning dining scene has even developed a following among Manhattan food lovers.

"I have a lot of Manhattan customers who drive in," said Emily Elsen, who co-owns the Four & Twenty Blackbirds with her younger sister Melissa.

The 30-year-old former sculptor student makes pies using seasonal ingredients in recipes inspired by her grandmother in South Dakota.

Despite Brooklyn's growing reputation as a food destination, its chefs are not worried about pleasing tourists.

"We see ourselves as a neighbourhood restaurant. We are just serving a neighbourhood with food," said Jean Adamson, chef and co-owner of Vinegar Hill House.

 

Canadian fighter gets her kicks in Chiang Mai

Cathay Cheng gave up everything to fight on the other side of the world.

The 25-year-old grew up in Vancouver and had been casually practicing muay thai for five years. But, after working as a pharmacist for a year and a half, she decided to pursue her dream of fighting in Thailand.

"If you're going to do muay thai, Thailand is the place to be," Cheng said.

A combination of martial arts and kickboxing, muay thai is Thailand's national sport. Although the technique is said to be thousands of years old, the first permanent arena was built in 1920 in Bangkok. Today, muay thai is practiced world-wide and is on the brink of becoming an Olympic sport.

"There's a rush when you fight," Cheng said. "You go into the ring and you just do your thing. It's amazing."

Cheng left her friends and family behind for an indefinite amount of time. She has been in Chiang Mai, Thailand, more than six months and loves it. In Canada, her fights were often cancelled and her training schedule conflicted with her everyday life, she said. In Chiang Mai, she can fight competitively and train twice a day, six days per week.

"I think training almost every day is a challenge," she said. "It's hard work but I love the end result." 

Since moving to Thailand, Cheng has won her first fight. She attributes success to her training regimen and support she receives from her gym, Kaisingthong Muay Thai.

"Everyone in the gym is like family," Cheng said. "We take care of each other since we spend so much time together."

Cheng's trainer, Andy Thomson, is a tranplanted Canadian who has been working as an instructor in Thailand for 15 years. He enjoys the sport because it's unique.

"The beauty of muay thai is that it's about the individual who practices the art," he said. "We are all different and muay thai allows that individuality to come out, rather than be strictly structured like many other forms of martial arts."

Thomson said he trains people from all over the world, but most of his students are from Australia, the United States and Canada.

Ajahn Suchart Yodkerepauprai is a muay thai master at Toronto's Siam No. 1 Muay Thai Club. He has almost 400 students, of which about 40% have travelled to Thailand to fight, he said. Some stay for a few weeks, others for several months.

"Everyone who has been wants to go back right away," he said.

He thinks the trip appeals to Canadians because Thailand's weather allows for year-round training, and students can experience the culture that parallels the sport.

"Muay thai is so beautiful," he said. "It's even performed at special occasions in Thailand."

Some of those occasions include New Year's celebrations and the king's birthday. Muay thai brings forth the Thai culture through a dance called the ram muay, which is performed by the boxers before each match.

"Each pose that is performed pays respect," Yodkerepauprai said. "It's respect for their teacher, parents, culture and the art."

Yodkerepauprai started practicing muay thai when he was eight years old, which is normal for Thai boys. He came to Canada 26 years ago and is happy to bring part of his culture with him.

Back in Chiang Mai, Cheng is preparing to fight a female boxer from Thailand. The arena is packed with tourists and locals who are placing bets. The odds are against Cheng. While her hands are being taped, music starts to play, signalling her time to step into the ring.

As she puts on her red padded gloves, she turns to Thomson and says, "I feel like I got this. I think I'm going to win."

After that fight, Cheng's record is now 2-0.

If you go to Thailand

See tourismthailand.org.

Ultimate destinations for globe-trotters

Lucky are the travellers who encounter something that moves, thrills or inspires them.

Here are some that have done that for me:

India: The Ganges River in Varanasi, India, at sunrise. My wife and I arrived when it was still dark. Little urchins sold us bits of lighted candles sitting on leaves, which we set adrift from our hired rowboat.

On the riverbank, the dead were being cremated in pyres of wood. Nearby, the living were going about their daily rituals of brushing their teeth, washing themselves and their clothing, saying their prayers. Mind-boggling.

Turkey: Military cemeteries at Conk Bayiri, Gallipoli. One held Ottoman troops, another Commonwealth soldiers - casualties of the First World War battle. Almost all were very young, and some of the inscriptions made me weep.

Jerusalem: The Dome of the Rock. This golden-topped shrine is where Mohammed is said to have begun his ascent to heaven. You don't have to be Muslim, or even particularly religious, to feel you're in a special place.

Jordan: Petra, a city carved into sheer rock faces by the Nabataeans, who settled there more than 2,000 years ago. Visitors enter through the Siq, a narrow, kilometre-long gorge with 80-metre-high cliffs soaring overhead. I did it 20 years ago on horseback, led by a cheeky Bedouin boy, an experience in itself. At the end of the Siq is your first glimpse of Petra's most-photographed building, the Treasury, carved in the 1st century for a king.

Argentina: Iguazu Falls. Not one waterfall but a system of 275 falls spanning 2.7 kilometres, located where Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina meet.

Italy: Venice's old city. Try to visit St. Mark's Square very early in the morning, before, as one Italian guide told me, "the people outnumber the pigeons.''

Thailand: The Grand Palace complex in Bangkok, which contains Thailand's most sacred site, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.

Australia: Circular Quay and the harbour bridge in Sydney, Australia. The quay is a transportation hub abuzz with ferries coming and going and folks strolling along the promenade. Even better at night.

Works of art that have made a lasting impression include the marble statue Winged Victory, in the Louvre, in Paris, which stopped my wife in her tracks, and Michaelangelo's towering David, in Florence's Galleria dell'Accademia, which did the same to me. Also in Florence: two Botticelli masterpieces, the Birth of Venus and La Primavera, both in the Uffizi gallery.

Most of what's on this list is made-made. That's partly because I've yet to visit some of the world's greatest natural wonders, such as the Grand Canyon and Victoria Falls.

But there are some dazzlers here at home.

Newfoundland, for icebergs. I remember standing at the edge of a cliff outside Twillingate, overlooking what they call Iceberg Alley, and marvelling as scores of chunks of polar ice in assorted shapes and shades drifted past.

Alberta: The Banff-Jasper Highway, with its icefield and views of the Rockies. If you're driving, take turns, otherwise the driver will miss much of it.

Ontario: Niagara Falls, impressive in any season, but my lasting memory is of a sunny, winter day when nearby trees sparkled with frozen spray.

British Columbia: Tofino, for ocean views and huge waves rolling in at beaches near Pacific Rim National Park.

Quebec: Upwards of 70,000 northern gannets gathered on Bonaventure Island in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, just off the village of Gaspe. You can walk to within two metres of the nesting area.

My most memorable view was from the tiny balcony of our hotel room in Ravello, perched 335 metres above the Tyrrhenian Sea on Italy's Amalfi Coast. Tour boats bound for Capri resembled toys in a tub, and traffic snaking along the cliff-hugging coast road could be seen but not heard.

Doug English can be reached at denglishtravel@gmail.com or by mail c/o London Free Press, P.O.E. Box 2280, London, Ont. N6A 4G1.

Lennon's artwork on display in New York City

Yoko Ono has put John Lennon's artwork on display in New York in a bid to promote world peace.

The late Beatles star was an avid artist in his spare time and Ono has now chosen to show off over 100 of his limited-edition drawings and re-printed song lyrics at the Gimme Some Truth exhibit at a pop-up gallery in SoHo.

She tells the New York Post, "There was a time when it seemed like the whole world was attacking me, and John was there to protect me. Now I protect John's legacy because his art promotes peace... The more art and music like John's, the bigger chance we all have for peace...

"(At first) I thought it would never fly (be popular) because of the elitist attitude in the art world. In music John was revered, but many people in art just thought he was dabbling. They didn't know these paintings were a window into his soul."

A portion of the works will be up for sale, with proceeds benefiting Citymeals-on-Wheels, a meal delivery service for senior citizens.

The show is set to close on Monday.

 

Chavez eyes Venezuela tourist islands

President Hugo Chavez said his government would seize private homes on the idyllic Los Roques archipelago in the Caribbean and use them for state-run tourism in the latest move to implant socialism across Venezuela.

"I’ve always said we should nationalize Los Roques," the ever-pugnacious Chavez said, making the announcement in a telephone call to state television late Wednesday.

Lying just north of Venezuela’s coast, Los Roques’ dozens of islands are one of the South American nation’s favorite — and most expensive — tourist spots, with pristine white sand beaches, coral reefs and teeming sea life.

While many of the islands are deserted, some have small lodges and private homes.

"There are some houses that were illegally built. We’re going to take them over," Chavez said, without giving a timeline.

"There are some supposed owners. They privatized it, so to speak, the high bourgeoisie, including the international set."

Since coming to power in 1999, Chavez has nationalized large swathes of the OPEC member’s economy, alienating many in the business community but often delighting supporters, especially in the poor areas where he has his power base.

The 57-year-old leader, who is mainly communicating with the nation by phone calls to state media during his convalescence after cancer treatment, said the government would build hostels on Los Roques "for the people."

Yachts confiscated from fugitive bankers would be used to transport tourists, he added.

Representatives of property owners on Los Roques could not be immediately reached for comment.

As a state-administered national park, it is unclear how people have been able to obtain property there.

Chavez is seeking re-election in October 2012 and has often sought to bolster popular support in the past by taking aim at Venezuela’s elite and wealthy.

Dine with long-necked buddies

Giraffe Manor in Nairobi is among the world's most exotic hotels or vacation rentals.

Guests actually dine with giraffes at a cost of $460 per night.

You can also sleep in a construction crane in the Netherlands for $475 a night or rent an entire wine country village in Germany for $48,351 per night.

Giraffe Manor is one of Nairobi's most iconic historical buildings dating back to the 1930s.

A herd of eight resident Rothschild giraffes tend to visit the manor in the mornings and evenings to greet guests and sniff out some snacks before venturing out to their 140-acre sanctuary.

The manor features 10 luxury rooms and was originally the home of a couple whose lifelong ambition became the preservation of the Rothschild giraffe.

If giraffes aren't your thing you can also spend a night in a tree house in France for $188 or bed down in a circus caravan in Switzerland for $56 a night.

Check out www.wimdu.com for more information.

Spice Island getaway

Often called the Spice Island, some properties on Grenada have fall promotions. Le Phare Bleu Marina & Boutique Hotel is offering seven nights for $720 US, including airport transfers, breakfast and VAT, Oct. 7-Nov. 30. Visit lepharebleu.com. Maca Bana Villa, a lovely hilltop complex I used a few years ago, is giving a $250 US resort credit with every six-night booking until Nov. 30. Visit macabana.com.

For more deals, contact the Grenada Board of Tourism at 416-595-1339 or visit grenadagrenadines.com.

Fly, ride and sail

The Floating Dutchman, a combination boat and bus, is the latest addition to the list of excursions available to travellers with time to kill at Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport. The vehicle goes from the airport to Amsterdam, enters the canals, emerges and returns to Schiphol. Visit floatingdutchman.nl/en. For details on other airport-based tours, visit amsterdamcitytours.com/schiphol-tours.html.

Helping hands

GoVoluntouring.com is described as a one-stop shop for people looking for volunteer vacation experiences. Founded by an overseas volunteer from Vancouver, the site lets users search through a directory of programs and projects, and customize their responses through search filters such as destination, age range and fitness level.

Fall fun at Ontario parks

Halloween and birdwatching are fall traditions in southwestern Ontario where milder temperatures and late fall colours attract families to Ontario parks along Lake Erie and Lake Huron.

At several provincial parks, campers decorate their campsites for kids' trick or treat and park natural heritage education programs offer unique ways for kids to learn about creatures associated with Halloween.

At least one southwestern Ontario park has an exceptional ghost story to share. At another, young families can learn to golf and still more have some of the best fall birdwatching in Ontario.

Rock Point Provincial Park is at the east end of Lake Erie, 45 minutes southwest of Niagara Falls.

This peninsula park was a coral reef 350 million years ago. Park staffers lead hikes to the reef where exposed fossils are embedded in limestone shelves on one of the park's beaches.

A platform high above the park dunes is perfect for watching migrating songbirds and hawks.

Halloween events are planned for Oct. 8.

More than 900 campers are expected at Turkey Point Provincial Park's Halloween event on Oct. 8.

Long Point Provincial Park may not celebrate Halloween but it does have a good ghost story.

A massive ship graveyard that has been coined the Graveyard of the Great Lakes now lies at the end of the massive sandpit.

Port Burwell Provincial Park is a fall bird lovers' haunt. Every year thousands of hawks pass through the park.

Sports tourism sizzles in Saskatchewan

Effervescent Viv McGunigal and five equally bubbly Saskatoon lady friends warmly greet me in Regina's Delta Hotel lobby before today's CFL game between her beloved Saskatchewan Roughriders and the Toronto Argonauts. They sport green and white Rider jerseys and paraphernalia.

"There's so much hype and fun and colour," she says. "You see a sea of green bodies, and you don't know how people get so creative. You spot watermelon heads, and will not be able to buy a watermelon in town today. Last year a guy in 30-degree-Celsius weather wore a long fur coat, dyed green!"

The Delta (all 174 rooms sold out) represents a fan microcosm, the restaurant and front desk staff in Rider colours, in support of a team that has played in an amazing 11 consecutive western finals and five Grey Cup games, winning more games from 1966 to 1976 than any professional team in the world.

At Mosaic Stadium, Steve Mazurak, VP of sales and marketing, says, "Here, the emphasis is on fan, not record or players. There's no NHL or pro soccer, so football is significant, despite being the smallest CFL market. Our campaigns are geared to the fans." 

I witness this walking past the nearby business headquarters, where there are more huge pictures of fans displayed than those of players. Their website -- riderville.com -- promotes "fan of the day" pictures and the Rider Oath, which seems somewhat sacred.

Sheila Kelly, executive director of the Saskatchewan Sports Hall of Fame concurs with the religious theme: "Game day IS a pilgrimage, not just for those in Saskatchewan but ex-pats from the United States who coordinate holiday schedules to take in a football game."

The Hall's current exhibit showcases 100 years of Saskatchewan football.

"The Riders are the only pro sports team that wears the provincial name, so it unites everyone in Rider pride," explains Kelly. "It's also a prairie thing. We think nothing of jumping into a car and driving for four hours. It's just what we do."

Mazurak reports they sell $250 shares, part of the public team ownership concept adapted from the Green Bay Packers in Wisconsin. It's similar to a "membership" purchase at Ontario's Stratford Shakespearian Festival, allowing benefits, discounts, payment options etc., but no financial return.

"Our merchandising embraces technology. Last year, sales topped $10,000,000, placing Saskatchewan in the midpoint of NFL teams and ahead of NHL teams!" Kelly says. "The economy, for the first time in my lifetime makes us a 'have' province, and for the last three years with the team performing well, that gives everybody a reason to be upbeat and proud."

Craig Reynolds, Roughrider's CFO, reports $38 million in total gross revenues in 2010. Not only did the club sell out its regular-season games, but total gate receipts were $11.3 million, surpassing the previous year's record by 9%.

Amanda Cachia, former curator at Regina's Dunlap Art Gallery, suggests, "There are two large banners on each side of Mosaic Stadium with prominent players George Reed and Ron Lancaster wearing the green jersey with bold capitalized words emblazoned across the top: PRIDE LIVES HERE. This captures the relationship that the Saskatchewan Roughriders fans have for their team." 

I watch a documentary that reveals after Grey Cup victories, the Riders returned home each time to their stadium, where 10,000 loyal fans waited in sub zero weather.

Do the fans travel to Winnipeg and Calgary, and how do they get there? 

"Yes and by any means!" Kelly laughs. "There was a classic Internet picture last year with the Grey Cup in Edmonton, several combines roaring across prairie wheat fields with the caption -- 'Rider fans on way to the Grey Cup.'"

At the Hall of Fame, Ken Danby's iconic painting of a Rider centre, quarterback and two backs graces the entrance. There are more paintings by local artists, Joel and Drew Hunter, but the big surprise is Rider colours were originally black and red. Cash-strapped and their existence in peril in 1947, Regina businessman R.J. Fyffe, while in Chicago, came across a sports shop selling a set of used football jerseys at a giveaway price. The catch -- they were green and white. The rest is history.

"Sounds corny, but that's what happened," Kelly says.

Mazurak says, "We are in a bubble here with a strong economy, and agriculture, formerly number one, is now three or four behind potash, uranium and oil." He emphasizes the importance of game-days sponsors, a sizeable female fan base and security -- fans are not unruly so it's a great family outing. 

Precisely what I encounter -- happy campers gathered in an adjacent roped-off field with drinks in hand, PlayStations for the kids, artists painting faces and room to show off outlandish Rider outfits. During the game, there are fireworks after scores, a steady stream of prizes and fan photos displayed on the scoreboard.

Before the game, I encounter George Reed, one of the aforementioned two gods resident on the huge stadium banners. Reed maintains most Rider rushing and scoring records, and now works for Casino Regina. Besieged for autographs, he still gives back to the fans. 

A symbol of Rider Nation solidarity was my encounter with a three-generation family of fans: Wayne Harker, 69, fan for 55-plus years, son Dave Harker, 45, fan for 35-plus years and his son, Nolan Wilson-Harker, 7, fan since birth. Wayne was born in Regina and grew-up in what is now the north end zone. He watched games from his garage roof as a boy. Retired, he lives in Edmonton, but has remained true to the spirit of Rider football.

The game itself? Sold-out as usual: 29,048 fans. The crowd roars in support of their defence while the Argos control the ball for most of the first half, racking up a 12-7 lead. 

"Don't worry," says the young man beside me. "We're a second half team; we'll come back."

And they do, winning 30-20. Fans merrily stream out of the stadium in a steady river of green and all is well again in this remarkable Rider Nation.

If You Go to Regina

Where to stay: Regina Delta Hotel. I was on the 24th floor and could see the entire city.

deltahotels.com/delta-regina

Saskatchewan Roughriders: See riderville.com.

What to see: Saskatchewan Sports Hall of Fame and Museum, sshfm.com.

whattravelwriterssay.com

Flight connections never easy

"Two hours? Plenty of time."

Add those to the list of famous last words from airline passengers connecting to another flight. Or from flight attendants trying to reassure them when their first flight is running late.

Two hours usually is ample time for flights within Canada and to the U.S. unless:

Your initial flight is delayed.

You're connecting at a major airport, such as Toronto Pearson or Atlanta's Hartsfield-Jackson.

You have to clear immigration, particularly when large numbers of international flights are arriving.

Any combination of the above and lotsa luck.

I hit the trifecta -- all three factors -- on a trip in June from London to Roanoke, Va., via Chicago. And, as a bonus, I had to go through security again in Chicago.

My flight from London to Chicago O'Hare was scheduled to depart at 4:49 p.m. and arrive in Chicago at roughly the same time because of the one-hour time difference. My connector to Roanoke was leaving three hours later.

The incoming flight was late reaching London and we sat on the tarmac until 5:25 p.m. waiting for air traffic control at O'Hare -- where late-afternoon congestion is normal -- to give us the green light.

At 5:45 p.m. I joined a line at immigration that stretched to the back of the holding area.

O'Hare is the third busiest airport in the world, after Atlanta and Beijing. Most of those ahead of me had just arrived from northern Europe and had to have their fingerprints and palms scanned. Canadians are exempt but are still slowed by that requirement.

The line moved at a glacial pace. Standing on concrete is hard when you have arthritis in the hips or knees. But at least I wasn't encumbered with fractious kids and mounds of luggage.

By 6:45 p.m. I was worried. If and when I ever got through immigration, I still had to clear customs, take a train to another terminal, go through security and reach my gate.

I flagged down an airport worker and explained my dilemma. Nothing he could do, he said, but maybe I could ask people ahead of me to let me go in front of them.

I'd already queue-jumped until I encountered a foursome who were in the same boat.

Boarding time for my connector was 7:30 p.m. I reached an immigration officer at 7 p.m. and he whipped me through. Customs was a breeze. The train took just minutes. The security line was surprisingly short, and my gate was nearby. My Roanoke flight was called a minute later.

One hour and 15 minutes is my longest wait at immigration. But I read of a Toronto journalist taking 21/2 hours to pre-clear at Pearson.

I could have avoided a long wait with a NEXUS card. It costs $50 and is good for five years. Applicants are interviewed, fingerprinted and have digital photos take of their face and irises. Visit www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/prog/nexus/menu-eng.html for details.

Next time I flew through O'Hare, I insisted on an early-morning arrival, when O'Hare has few international arrivals.

But there's a downside -- security is often swamped at that time, particularly at Terminal One.

There's a way around that. If your connection is from No. 1, get off the train at Terminal 2. Go through security there, where the lines are usually smaller, the walk to No. 1. I ran this idea past a TSA agent and a frequent flier who works in corporate travel in Chicago and both approved it.

O'Hare does have something that'll raise the spirits of older travellers. When I ordered a beer in a restaurant, my server, whose nametag read "Eunice," looked slightly embarrassed.

"Can I see some ID?" she asked.

I'm 75 with grey hair and a limp. I thought it was hilarious.

"It's airport policy," she explained with a grin. "You can tell your friends you were carded at the airport."

Thank you, Eunice, for making my day.

Doug English can be reached at denglishtravel@gmail.com or by mail c/o London Free Press, P.O.E. Box 2280, London, Ont. N6A 4G1.

48 hours in Munich for Oktoberfest

Got 48 hours to spare in Munich during Oktoberfest, the world's largest fair?

Oktoberfest was first celebrated 201 years ago when Crown Prince Ludwig married Princess Therese and invited Munich's citizens to join the party on the Theresienwiesen ("Wiesn").

These days the festival is held mostly in September as October gets too cold. This year it runs from Sept 17 to Oct 3.

Reuters correspondents with local knowledge help visitors get the most out of a visit to Oktoberfest, where a record amount of beer -- 7.1 million litres -- was consumed last year.

Friday

5 p.m. - Gear up for the Oktoberfest by shopping around for your own Bavarian garb, which has come back into fashion over the past decade.

Try wearing lederhosen (if you're a man) or a dirndl (for women) if you're up for the authentic feel. The regional clothing now exists in a dazzling spectrum of styles from the austere and traditional to modern and mildly pornographic.

You can often lay your hands on the kit anywhere in Munich from the luxury boutiques on Maximilianstrasse to the second hand shops tucked away in side streets, as well as online.

Other regional dress, from Scottish kilts to Dutch dress and clogs, are also warmly welcomed.

Clad in your new outfit, take a first stroll across the "Wiesn" to soak up the atmosphere: the aroma of cotton candy, roasted almonds and the scent of barley and hops of the main protagonist, the beer.

Some 6.4 million visitors from Germany and as far afield as the United States attended the Oktoberfest last year.

7 p.m. - Take it easy tonight if you plan to return for another session tomorrow.

If you're keen to rub shoulders with celebrities, head to the Hippodrom tent where Bayern Munich footballers, former tennis star Boris Becker and German actors are often sighted.

Young locals favor the Schuetzen-Festzelt tent, famous for its suckling pig in maltbeer. Even younger locals head to the Schottenhamel where Oktoberfest's first keg is tapped.

Traditional charm can be found in the Hacker tent -- decked out in white and blue, colors representing Bavaria's skies -- at the Braeurosl or Augustiner tents. The latter is the only brewery that still uses wooden kegs for storage. Its beer is also served in the Fischer Vroni tent.

The Oktoberfest tents serve local delicacies such as oxen, pork knuckles and cunningly thirst-provoking, salty pretzels. But for a less pricey version and possibly more authentic Munich meal, try one of the city's many beer gardens.

The Augustiner near the Central Station is a favorite after-work meeting spot. The Chinese Tower in the English Garden is a classic, but farther away from the main festivities. Hirschgarten is more suited for families.

If the weather is not being kind to you, you could head to the area around Marienplatz to check out the city hall and the cathedral and find a restaurant in the pedestrian zone. The Bratwurst Gloeckl offers good traditional food.

Saturday

11 a.m. - If you want to get into a beer tent but have not made a reservation, be prepared to turn up before noon. Tents open at 9 a.m. on the weekends and while there is seating for some 115,000 people in total, they shut once they are full.

On the final weekend last year, access to the entire Wiesn site had to be shut off for several hours due to overcrowding.

For your first view of the fair, try a turn on the Ferris wheel. For the more adventurous, try one of the stomach-turning rollercoasters now, rather than after sampling the beer.

The Toboggan, offering the sight of punters trying to stay upright on an uphill conveyor belt, is an all-time favorite. Its entertainment value makes up for its lack of gut-churning potential.

Once you are inside a tent, where the oompah of the brass bands mingles with the cheer of merry drinkers and sing-alongs, find a table, order drinks and food, and have fun. Prost!

Be aware though that the beer not only comes in a 1 liter 'mass' glass but at around 6 percent is also stronger than the brew you might be used to. Pace yourself or risk becoming a Bierleiche (literally translated: a beer corpse).

The liter will cost between 8.70 euros ($11.87) and 9.20 euros this year, roughly 35 cents more than last year.

Learn a few key Bavarian phrases to navigate your way around the tents: Biddscheen for please, Bierdimpfe for "tavern potato" for a notorious beer drinker (hint: don't become one) and Heisl for toilet.

11 p.m. - All but a few tents have served their last round now and will close shortly. A few places, like the Schuetzen-Festzelt, have a ritual last song of the night. So if you're into Rainhard Fendrich -- an Austrian pop star who goes down well with the Bavarian crowd too -- head to the Schuetzen for a recital of his love song "Weus'd a Herz host wia a Bergwerk" ("Because you have a heart like a mine." Yes, it works better in German).

You can either go on to Weinzelt (the wine tent) or the Kaefer tent, both of which still serve alcohol after midnight.

Alternatively, there are after-parties all over the city. Follow the locals. Surely, by now you will have befriended some. If you haven't, it may be because you didn't check out Oktoberfest's very own Bavarian dictionary at: www.oktoberfest.de/en/lexikon/.

In Schwanthalerhoehe, the district that lies downtown just beyond the monumental statue of Bavaria, many bars remain open and rowdy all night long.

If clubbing is your thing, however, and you want to dance off some of those beer-calories, try out the stylish -- if a tad pretentious -- P1 club.

Located underneath the Haus der Kunst art museum, a Nazi-built structure which hosted the infamous 1937 exhibition of "degenerate art," P1 is a favorite haunt for Munich's upper class and celebrities.

The doormen are ruthless in their entrance policy, so glam up or you'll be left standing in the cold.

Sunday

9 a.m. (or whenever you can make it out of bed) - To cure your hangover, try a walk around the English Gardens, a rare oasis of tranquility during the Oktoberfest and one of the world's largest urban parks -- more expansive than even New York's Central Park.

Don't be taken by surprise if you wander into the area reserved for naked sunbathers. The Free Body Culture (FKK) movement was founded in the early 20th century and succeeded in taking much of the smut and embarrassment out of nudity.

Another curiosity is the surfers riding the small waves at the mouth of an artificial stream running through the gardens.

An alternative relaxing destination just out of town is Lake Starnberg, formed from ice age glaciers from the Alps and offering stunning mountain views on a clear day.

The hardy can attempt a dip in the 21-km long freshwater lake, go windsurfing or sailing, while the more laid-back can simply stroll along the shore with its brightly painted wooden boathouses or hop on a ferry.

And if you still haven't had enough of the Oktoberfest, return to the Wiesn to check out more beer, rollercoasters and amusement rides.

Look after your belongings, however. So far this year's lost and found's list of curiosities includes: 460 personal identity cards, 130 mobile phones, a Viking helmet, a walking frame and several wedding rings.