Cajun cooking sizzles

Layers of cardboard and newspapers cover the tables. There's no cutlery, just containers of hot sauce and several giant-size rolls of paper towels.

We're at Boudreau and Thibodeau's. It advertises Cajun cooking, as do many eating places in and around Houma, an hour's drive southwest of New Orleans.

The appetizers, all deep-fried, arrive on plates: onion rings, shrimp, oysters, and boudin, a Cajun blood sausage. A few bites and you've reached your cholesterol limit for the week, possibly longer.

The main course ingredients, all boiled, arrived in buckets: shrimp, potatoes, a spicy Cajun sausage called andouille, and corn on the cob, followed by crawfish, freshwater critters resembling miniature lobsters.

I haven't eaten since breakfast. Neither has the journalist from Montreal's La Presse sitting across from me, so we wreak havoc on the mound in front of us. "C'est bon, c'est bon,'' she keeps exclaiming. Bits of shell go flying, seafood juice splatters shirts and slacks. It's great fun, particularly washed down with bottles of Abita Amber, a Louisiana beer that puts the ubiquitous Bud Light to shame.

Cajuns, if you remember your high school history, are descendants of Acadians, French Catholics expelled by the British from Nova Scotia in 1755. Some started trickling into Louisiana a decade later and flourished.

Cajun cooking, a local chef explained, is a mix of seven cultures -- French, Native American, Spanish, African American, Germany, Italian and British. So you find gumbo, an African word for okra but used to describe a popular stew-like soup, and bread pudding, a British favourite, on the same menu.

Of the four Cajun restaurants we visited, A-Bear's Cafe was tops. (The name is a play on the French pronunciation of the owners' name, Hebert).

A typical lunch special is smoked sausages with red beans and rice and either potato salad or cole slaw for $6.75 or a big bowl of gumbo, either shrimp or chicken and sausage, with potato salad for $6.95.

Appetizers include crab fingers, fried cauliflower, crawfish pies, catfish, hush puppies, fried okra and popcorn shrimp. Sweet potato fries is a popular side dish.

Jane Hebert, whose husband, Curly, does the cooking, brought us a taste of grilled catfish. When I asked about the sauce, she replied: "It's a buttery-based secret.''

I did learn why their red beans are superior to what I eat at home: Theirs are made from scratch, not via a can-opener.

Houma chef Roy Guilbeau says you boil the beans, dump the water, and boil them again. In the second cooking he includes what he calls "the holy trinity'' of Louisiana cuisine -- celery, green peppers and onions -- which he sautes first. He adds oregano, parsley and green onions at the end of the second cooking, along with chopped smoked sausage.

The Cajun food at Bayou Delight, about 10 kilometres from Houma, near Gibson, is also tasty. The lunch special the day we visited was only $5.99, and that included homemade peach cobbler.

Dinner at Big Al's Seafood Restaurant in Houma resulted in a mass swearing-off of anything deep-fried. The frog's legs were OK, but the crab claws, alligator and other bits and bobs had been left in hot oil so long they tasted pretty much alike.

One word I didn't see on any menu was "blackened.''

In the 1980s, famed New Orleans chef Paul Prudhomme introduced this term for searing meat and fish with pepper and other spices.

Blackened meat and fish became all the rage. But heavy-handedness with the hot stuff led to the belief that Cajun cuisine was super spicy.

The real stuff isn't.


Treasures of the East

Cruising on a budget

NEW YORK - The cruise industry bills cruising as a great value. For one upfront price, your accommodations, meals and trip are paid for.

But most cruisers end up spending more. Carolyn Spencer Brown, editor of CruiseCritic.com, says her rule of thumb is to assume she'll spend half the amount of the cruise fare on incidentals. She recommends an online cruise budget calculator to help estimate all your costs at http://www.independenttraveler.com/travel-budget-calculator/.

Wendy Perrin, consumer news editor at Conde Nast Traveler magazine, also cautions that "the cruise fare you see advertised is not the price you'll end up paying. The advertised fare, which is usually for the smallest, windowless cabin, does not include mandatory taxes and port fees, mandatory gratuities, or highly recommended additional charges, such as cruise insurance." Perrin blogs about travel at http://perrinpost.com.

You'll also have to buy plane tickets to the departure port if it's not within driving distance. But there are ways to keep costs down. Here are a few:

CABIN SELECTION: The cheapest cabins will be inside - no balcony, no windows. This might sound depressing, but on many cruise ships, public spaces are so vast and appealing that you won't want to be in you're room unless you’re sleeping.

There are multiple decks with pools, atriums and libraries - all to be enjoyed for free - not to mention the scenic views. On an Alaska trip, you'll spend part of a day at sea cruising past an enormous glacier - an incredible sight, no extra charge.

FREE ACTIVITIES: Plenty of things to do on a cruise ship are free, like using the fitness center or catching live performances, from comedy to musical variety.

The Celebrity Solstice, which launched in November, features the first "Hot Glass Show" at sea, where glassblowers from New York's Corning Museum of Glass give free glassblowing demonstrations. The Solstice also has a deck with real grass called the "Lawn Club" where you can play bocce or croquet or putt golf balls for free.

On Princess Cruises, one way to lure you out of your room is a giant poolside screen, 300 square feet, that shows feature films (including first-run movies and family shows), concerts and even telecasts of events, from the inauguration to the Super Bowl to the Oscars. Princess calls the program "Movies Under the Stars" but there are broadcasts all day as well as at night. The screens are now on Caribbean Princess, Crown Princess, Emerald Princess, Ruby Princess, Grand Princess, Star Princess and Sea Princess, and they’ll be installed in 2009 on Golden Princess, Dawn Princess and Coral Princess.

Heidi Allison-Shane of CruiseCompete.com notes that on many lines, if you book a suite, you get additional freebies, for example complimentary passes to thermal lounges in spas.

AVOID TEMPTATION: If you're counting pennies, skip the casino, spa, specialty restaurants that charge extra, the gift shop, art auction, fitness classes, lattes in the cafe and cocktails at the bar.

But don't underestimate how hard it is to resist the repeated announcements and flyers promoting these things and others. Additional pressure comes from hearing other passengers rave about massages, yoga class, or in-port helicopter tours.

"You kind of feel like maybe you're missing out if you don’t try this or that," Perrin said.

One compromise: Give yourself a daily budget for extras, and if you skip a day, you’ll have that much more to spend the next day.

KIDS STUFF: A huge plus for families: Most cruises offer free children's programs and kids usually enjoy them. But children like to spend money on cruises too - in the arcade room, for example; on milkshakes and other goodies which may be extra; and for activities like rock climbing.

Give kids a daily allowance so you don't have to negotiate or be constantly nagged - $5, or if you're feeling really generous, $10 a day. If they're hoping for something in the gift shop, they can save up over a few days.

Do buy the wristband or card that covers unlimited soft drinks. It pays for itself in no time. You'll want one for yourself too.

SIGHTSEEING: Do your homework about different types of cruises. For fun in the sun, cruise to a beach destination or warm island. A cruise can be a "wonderful way of island-hopping," Perrin said.

But to explore a destination in depth, a cruise may not leave you feeling satisfied, and could entail hundreds of dollars extra for ground transportation and tours, Perrin said.

"You might have eight hours in port or 11 hours in port, but depending on the destination, it could take hours to get from the port to the city," leaving much less time for sightseeing, Perrin said. For example, on a Mediterranean cruise, getting from the port nearest Rome to the city center and back can take four hours.

Shore excursions booked through cruise lines are also usually priced higher than if you made arrangements yourself. "You can often have a better time for less money hiring a car and driver," Perrin said.

But there are advantages to booking excursions through the ship. Cruise lines screen tour companies for quality, and if there's a delay in ground transportation, the ship will wait for you if you've booked the tour through them.


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Mayan hotels offer super service

The woman at the front desk flashed a 1,000-watt smile. The dining room host greeted me by name. The bartender took one look, said "gin and tonic,'' and started mixing me one.

And I'd only been there one night.

At 97 rooms, the Azul Beach Hotel is easily the tiniest all-inclusive I've ever used, and proof that small can be beautiful.

I was there to experience a concept called Gourmet Inclusive, created by Karisma for the six resorts it manages on Mexico's Mayan Riviera. Three belong to Azul, which welcome children; three are adults-only El Dorado properties.

According to Karisma's website (www.karismahotels.com), Gourmet Inclusive "addresses and defines every detail of the guest experience from the decor and atmosphere to the variety and quality of services, amenities and cuisine.''

Let's look at cuisine.

One of the Azul Beach's three restaurants features an all-lobster menu, and there's a tequila lounge serving more than 30 varieties of Mexico's most famous liquor.

Every guest entering one of the newly opened Azul Sensatori's six dining places is greeted with a big spoon containing a tiny appetizer.

At the El Dorado Royale, candle-lit dinners under thatched-roof palapas are staged every night.

With Gourmet Inclusive, it's a la carte dining at every meal. The Azul Beach's only concession is an optional breakfast buffet for guests anxious to get going on the day's activities.

I wasn't surprised to learn, given the hotel's small size, that restaurant reservations weren't needed. But nor are they required at the El Dorado Royale, which has 644 rooms plus an even more upscale "casitas'' section with 169 suites.

Youngsters get something of a VIP treatment at Azul resorts when the family checks in. While mom and dad are enjoying chilled facecloths and champagne, the tykes receive a welcome drink, often a chocolate milkshake, a small gift and their own registration cards.

"We treat children as guests,'' sales manager Alejandra Montufar told me.

A menu of baby amenities includes organic Gerber baby food, which is one less thing for parents to pack. Family rooms come with a stroller, crib, bathing table and infant-size bathrobes that match the grownups' ones. There are also electronic baby monitors for parental peace of mind.

Two Gourmet Inclusive features that were a huge hit with the vacationers I talked to at the Azul Beach were the beach beds and the beach butler service.

Lining the beach are wood-framed cabanas with king-size mattresses and pillows, and gauzy curtains for a bit of privacy. A staff of butlers provides sun products, reading material and fresh towels. Drinks are available at the wave of a hand, and every 45 minutes a tray of snacks is brought around.

"The staff goes to the guest, not the other way around,'' Montufar explained.

Indeed, superior service was what most impressed me.

Culinary activities are another hit, she said. The Azul Beach does four a week. At one, the chef shows guests how make paella, a Spanish favourite. On Fridays, a fishing boat lands on the beach and the catch of that day is grilled then and there.

How much does all this cost?

Air Canada Vacations' fall-winter brochure lists a one-week package at the Azul Beach, including return air from Toronto, at $2,479 per person, plus taxes and service charges, for early January, which is when I was there.

The El Dorado Royale was $2,369.

Other Canadian tour operators also offer package holidays to some of the Azul and El Dorado resorts.

Another option would be to fly from Detroit, as I did. Northwest does daily non-stops to Cancun.

Room reservations can also be made directly with Karisma.


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Treasures of the East

KAGA, Japan -- Across the Pacific on the edge of the Ishikawa prefecture, visitors will find a little piece of Canada at The Kayotei.

Masanori Kamiguchi, head of the family run Kayotei, has many treasures on display in the inn's public spaces -- ornate chests, handpainted screens, antique sake cups, fine lacquerware and Canadian maple syrup in maple-leaf-shaped bottles.

The Kayotei's ties to Canada were forged several years ago when one of Kamiguchi's daughters and her husband, Jiro Takeuchi, moved to British Columbia.

Takeuchi worked for Vancouver's Sutton Place Hotel for a time and during family visits, Kamiguchi fell in love with Canada -- hence the maple syrup and the warm welcome given to our small group from Toronto and Montreal.

Maple syrup aside, Canadian connections are not the primary reason people visit The Kayotei. Visitors -- both local and foreign -- come to the inn for an authentic Japanese experience including onsen -- or hot spring baths.

When established in the mid-1970s, the 10-room inn -- or ryokan -- was quite a departure for the Kamiguchi family, which had previously owned a large hotel and restaurant business.

"They had a 200-room hotel but went against the trend (at the time) and opened a small ryokan that offered traditional, personal Japanese hospitality," says Takeuchi, now general manager of The Kayotei.

Kamiguchi had rightly predicted a change in travel habits and sensed that people were looking for more intimate experiences based on Japense culture, Takeuchi says.

More importantly, he wanted to make The Kayotei a bastion of minimalist calm in a busy world, a place where tabi socks and kimono-clad hostesses await visitors at the front door.

The suites -- some as big as apartments -- are outfitted with tatami mats and floor-hugging kotatsu tables. Translucent shoji screens open to forest views. At night, cushy futons are set up for sleeping.

Menus change with the season and are based on locally sourced ingredients. The cuisine is kaiseki style -- many small dishes such as sashimi, tempura, grilled fish, soup and rice -- all beautifully prepared and artistically presented on lovely dishes manufactured in the Ishikawa area.

In ancient times, a multi-course kaiseki meal was served before the traditional Japanese tea ceremony.

The Kamaguchi family is passionate about maintaining traditional ways but in a little nod to modernity, lounges and suites have Wi-Fi access and bathrooms are equipped with those wonderful hi-tech Japanese toilets that do everything except tuck you in at night.

There are separate baths for men and women plus a private bath on an outdoor patio, which overlooks the treetops along the Kakusen Gorge.

The gorge is famous for its links to celeberated haiku poet Matsuo Basho, who wrote about the scenic spot after stopping there for several days while trekking through the region in 1689.

"Here I have found the genuine joy of travelling," Basho wrote of the region.

Steps from the inn, there's a leafy 1.3-km walking trail, which passes a hut and a stone monument dedicated to Basho, before continuing along the gorge to the Ayatori Hashi Bridge. Also called the Cat's Cradle Bridge, the red metal structure carries walkers across the river. The intricate design was created by master flower arranger and filmmaker Hiroshi Teshigawa.

The trail ends at Yamanaka, once a separate town but now officially part of Kaga. The community of 9,000 is popular with Japanese tourists and has a small museum dedicated to Basho plus galleries, and shops selling ceramics, souvenirs and lacquerware.

The Chrysanthemum Public Baths have separate facilities for men and women, and there is also a footbath for those who may have lingered too long in the shops.

Lacquerware is a specialty of the area and Kayotei guests can tour the studio of Satake Yasuhiro, a local artisan with an international reputation.

Yasuhiro is passionate about his traditional craft and also has connections to Canada -- his younger son, Yasushi, spent two years studying wood-turning on Salt Spring Island.

Despite the artistry that goes into his work, Yasuhiro says each beautiful wooden bowl, cup, etc., he makes is meant to be used not put on a shelf.

* * *

Chef Shin-ichiro Takagi knows all about creating and using beautiful things.

At Zeniya, his restaurant in Kanazawa, it's hard to say what is more beautiful -- the eye- and-palate pleasing dishes Takagi painstakingly prepares or the vintage serving pieces on which he presents them. Both are intergral parts of the Zeniya dining experience.

Located on the Sea of Japan, Kanazawa is the capital of the Ishikawa prefecture, where the traditional cooking -- Kaga cuisine -- is based on seafood and hearty vegetables.

Takagi is a master of Kaga cuisine and at Zeniya he embraces what he calls a "kaiseki inspired" approach.

Zeniya is not a place for people looking for teriyaki chicken and North American-style sushi -- in fact there is no set menu at the restaurant. It is a place for foodies and others looking for an authentic Japanese fine dining experience.

"I like to make the best dishes everyday, and create the best menu, according to what kinds of ingredients are available," says Takagi, who shops daily at Omicho market in central Kanazawa.

Dishes can include hamo fish in a delicate broth, sea bream with salt and citrus, salmon roe with chrysanthemum, abalone seared on a hot stone and steamed rice with chestnut, ginko nut, chicken, potato and black sesame seeds.

Each course arrives piping hot in an eclectic array of dinnerware -- vintage Wajima lacquerware soup and rice bowls, 18th-century blue-and-white plates from China, mid-19th-century Japanese ceramics, Kutani pottery -- even a wooden bird cage.

"We don't use a dishwasher," Takagi says.

Takagi's talents were put to the test last year when he was asked to prepare a Kaga meal for the who's who of New York City's food scene. Held at the home of Japanese ambassador Motoatsu Sakurai, dinner guests included top chefs, Zagat co-founders Tim and Nina Zagat and food editors from The New York Times and Fortune Magazine.

Takagi packed up his tableware and flew to New York City, where he created a 10-course sake-pairing menu.

"We needed nine suitcases just for the dishes," Takagi remarks casually. "But if you don't care about the dishes, it's not Japanese kaiseki."

Anyone who watches TV food shows might expect Takagi's kitchen to be fraught with tension. But that's not the laidback chef's style.

"If you push staff too hard, it doesn't make them better. In the chef world, sometimes people get too emotional. Not in my restaurant."

Instead -- like The Kayotei -- Zeniya is a little pocket of calm, where traditional ways still exist and guests from Canada are always welcome.

---

BOTTOMLINE

MORE INFORMATION

We flew to Tokyo with Japan Airlines and after a few days continued on by train to Kanazawa. Rail passes can be purchased through the Japan National Tourist Organization website, which also offers holiday packages, including some with Japan Airlines. For flights only, see jal.com/en. For train passes and other travel information, contact the Japan National Tourist Organization in Toronto at 416-366-7140 or visit jnto.go.jp/canada. For information on dining at Zeniya in Kanazawa, e-mail Chef Takagi at zeniya@yu.incl.ne.jp.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Rooms at the The Kayotei are about $115 but rates vary depending on the season. For more information, visit ryokancollection.com and follow the links to the Luxury Ryokan Collection, call 0761-78-1410 or e-mail kayotei@fork.ocn.ne.jp. In Kanazawa, the recently renovated and centrally located Hotel Nikko Kanazawa has rooms from about $225 per night. See hnkanazawa.co.jp.


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Buddy Holly's final gig named landmark

CLEVELAND - The Rock & Roll Hall of Fame has added the Surf Ballroom in Clear Lake, Iowa, to its list of designated rock 'n' roll landmarks.

The Surf was where Buddy Holly, the Big Bopper and Ritchie Valens played their final gig on Feb. 2, 1959. The three died in a plane crash after the performance. The anniversary is being marked with a weeklong commemoration culminating in a Feb. 2 anniversary concert at the Surf.

Other sites in the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame's Landmark Series are the Whisky-a-Go-Go in Los Angeles where the Doors were resident performers; Brooklyn High School in Brooklyn, Ohio, where Elvis played his first concert north of the Mason-Dixon line; and The Crossroads in Clarksdale, Miss., cradle of the blues.

For more information about the Surf anniversary event, which is called "50 Winters Later," visit http://www.50winterslater.com. While the Surf Ballroom is still a venue for concerts and other events, there is also a museum at the site dedicated to preserving musical history. Details at http://www.surfballroom.com.

The Rock & Roll Hall of Fame and Museum is located in Cleveland but recently opened an annex in New York City at 76 Mercer St.; details at http://www.rockhall.com.

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Museum a mash note to beer

Museum a mash note to beer

AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS -- The sweet smell of barley mash fills the brewing hall. Water and foam spritz down on visitors' heads as they watch a film about fermentation, as seen from the perspective of beer. Next up: The tasting.

No wonder they call this the "Heineken Experience."

One of Amsterdam's most popular attractions among young adults, the Experience has reopened after a year of renovations.

Long gone are the days when the tour, located on the site of Heineken's former brewery in Amsterdam, was mostly a way to drink unlimited amounts of booze.

The remodelled version lives up to its name, a cross between corporate museum and a chance to achieve rapture with one of the world's most-recognized beer brands.

Though for cynics the Experience may feel like one long advertisement, for those who love the beer it's "a pilgrimage," says Bob Rogers, a branding expert who advised Heineken on the museum's renovations.

"We wanted to bring back the connection with beer-making, and the history of Heineken, to help people see it, touch it, taste it," he says.

The new Experience updates its offerings with several hi-tech exhibits targeting the "YouTube generation."

For instance, visitors can perform karaoke of the cheesy Dutch classic song Tulips from Amsterdam against a backdrop of canals -- and instantly send a video clip of the event by e-mail to their friends.

SHORT FILM

The tour begins with a short film designed to praise Heineken's history, in which the word "quality" is mentioned a dozen or more times.

It gets better from there.

After wandering through historical Heineken artifacts, visitors are offered a chance to see and touch barley and hops, two of the main ingredients of beer.

Next they enter a stylish art-deco hall filled with massive copper brewing kettles.

An actor plays the part of master brewer, explaining the brewing process while stirring a steaming cauldron full of "wort" -- the mash that is mixed with yeast before beer is fermented.

Next is the low-impact "Brew U" ride, where visitors are encouraged to "be the beer" and witness brewing and bottling from the perspective of the amber liquid.

At the halfway mark, visitors are offered their first taste of the holy Heineken itself.

A bartender demonstrates how to tap a beer properly -- a head of foam keeps a beer at its best -- and gives helpful tips on tasting.

Along the way, visitors are initiated into some of the secrets of Heineken. For instance, Heineken uses its own proprietary strain of yeast, the beer equivalent of Coca Cola's secret formula or Kentucky Fried Chicken's secret recipe.

There are homages to the advertising savvy that made Heineken popular internationally, including one room full of Heineken posters.

Other attractions include a chance to order a bottle of Heineken with a personalized label, or to see your own image superimposed on one of Heineken's James Bond adverts.

At the end of the tour comes -- what else? -- a bar stocked entirely with Heineken.

The roof is decorated with thousands of the company's hallmark green bottles.

As a gag, bartenders serve water to anybody who tries ordering a Bud.

---

HOPS TO IT

The Heineken experience is located at Stadhouderskade 78, Amsterdam; www.heinekenexperience.com.

Reachable by trams 16, 24 and 25 from Central Station. Open daily 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Tour costs $25 (15 euros) and the price includes two beers.

Under Dutch law, people aged 16 and older can drink alcohol.


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Eiffel Tower you haven't seen

A model of refined simplicity on the outside, the iron lady that symbolizes Paris is a complicated piece of work inside her elegant A-line figure.

Custom-fitted pumps, heaters and long-life bulbs keep the 119-year-old Eiffel Tower working and sparkling, while industrial-sized cogs, gears and cables spin, bump, grind and purr deep inside the structure’s innards, in places no tourists see.

Caring for the monument’s hidden core is a daunting, sometimes dangerous task that goes on out of sight but keeps the tower looking its picture-postcard best. More than 500 people — from welders and plumbers to security guards and cooks — work within the structure.

“It’s a village here, full of life and very specific life forms,” said Yves Camaret, technical director of the company that runs the tower, as he led The Associated Press on a tour of its many no-go areas.

Cavernous basements tucked beneath the tower’s legs house massive hydraulic motors that power the two visitors’ elevators. Descending the spiral staircase into the “fosse,” or pit, is like stealing onto the set of “Modern Times,” Charlie Chaplin’s 1936 vision of industrial society. Oversized cogs spin slowly, gears painted vibrant primary colours chug, and metal cables with the circumference of a dessert plate uncoil and recoil like anacondas.

A 3,785-litre tank full of water, which was once pumped in from the nearby Seine, provides the counterbalance needed to hoist the roughly 18,000 visitors per day up to the 115-metre-high second-level landing.

The motor’s myriad clanking parts need frequent oiling, and workers inspect them daily. Even a short, half-hour breakdown of one elevator can double the lines of visitors.

The City of Paris owns the tower, which made more than US$250,000 in 2006.

It draws some seven million visitors annually, making it one of the world’s top tourist attractions and a potential target for terrorists, though so far only in fantasy, as in the 1980 movie “Superman II.”

“It’s a symbol, therefore it’s a target,” said Camaret. The tower’s security detail is “extensive,” he said, declining to give details.

Guards also have to watch for suicides — one jumper a year on average, Camaret said. The last was a man who leaped to his death early last year, he said.

Designed by the tower’s architect and namesake, Gustave Eiffel, the visitors’ elevators were installed in 1899 — 10 years after the tower opened. Together with the more modern elevators that go up to the 276-metre-high summit observation deck, they travel more than 100,000 kilometres up and down each year.

The wear and tear takes its toll. A restoration is under way to replace all the pieces of one of the aging, hydraulic motors. Exact copies of each and every original gear, wheel and screw are being cast in foundries in France and Germany, for $28 million, said Eric Trahand, from the elevator maintenance team.

Aside from visitors, everything else goes up and down on a modern electric elevator.

From knickknacks on sale in the gift shop to baguettes and bubbly served in the restaurants — celebrated French chef Alain Ducasse’s chic Jules Verne and the casual Altitude 95 — everything goes through X-ray machines. They are then packed into sealed containers, like padlocked refrigerators on wheels, for the trip into the sky.

Subterranean pumps send water shooting up to tower-top sinks and toilets.

Dozens of kilometres of plumbing are integrated into the structure of the monument, exposing the pipes to the elements. Mini-heater coils prevent them freezing when the thermometer drops, so the sinks run and toilets flush even in the harshest winters.

It takes a team of 30 painters working full-time over 18 months to spruce up the tower with a fresh coat of its signature bronze paint.

Even changing a light bulb becomes a major production.

To replace one of the 360 spotlights, specially trained technicians don mountain-climbing gear to scale the iron crossbeams. Working in pairs for safety, they are fastened by nylon climbers’ cords to the structure at all times, with their tools strapped to their belts to prevent accidents.

“If you drop something, anything, even a thing as small as a screwdriver can kill,” said electrician Henri Pellier, 44, who has worked at the tower for 14 years.

Neither Pellier, nor his partner, 32-year-old Eric Auzolles, had any climbing experience before they were hired. They were trained by experienced mountain climbers.

“For me, climbing is a pleasure,” said Auzolles as he strapped himself into a yellow harness and donned a hard hat. “It’s like being on top of a mountain... We’re missing out on the snow and the sun, that’s all.”

It can sometimes take the pair up to an hour to replace a single spotlight. Luckily, the 20,000 mini-flashbulbs that make the tower sparkle every hour on the hour throughout the night are guaranteed to last 10 years.

The centrepiece of the 1889 World’s Fair, the tower represented an architectural revolution. Not only was it the world’s tallest building — a title it held until the 1929 inauguration of New York’s Chrysler Building — but it also marked a radical departure from Paris’ hallmark low stone buildings.

Its construction in the heart of the French capital, on the elegant Champ de Mars lawn, sparked a whirlwind of controversy. Celebrated artists, writers, architects and other prominent Parisians railed against the tower, calling in an 1887 open letter for a stop to the planned construction of the “useless and monstrous” structure.

The tower was originally meant to be demolished after twenty years, but it slowly gained public favour — and proved useful as a communications tower — thus escaping the wrecking ball.

Southern exposures

PUERTO VARAS, Chile -- Octavio Chrismar Gebauer sits in a tiny tourist booth near the Plaza de Armas in Puerto Octay collecting statistics on the nationalities of visitors who stop in his village.

So far, his list includes 368 from Chile, 272 from Argentina, and about a dozen people each from Australia, Britain, Spain and Uruguay. No Canadians visited during the month of December, which is summer in Chile.

Not that they'd be missing much in Puerto Octay -- where the main landmarks are the Hotel Centinela and a 100-year old church -- but the Lake District, where the village is located, is definitely worth exploring for its spectacular scenery.

Located in southern Chile , it's a land of parks, waterfalls, volcanoes, small towns with a European flare, and of course plenty of lakes. Chief among them is Lake Llanquihue -- the third largest lake in South America.

I set off one morning on a day-long road trip around this pristine body of water with my guide Cristobal Fierro Becker of Protours. We began at the southern tip of Lake Llanquihue in the gorgeous city of Puerto Varas, (population 33,000) which has a 3-km-long crescent-shaped beach and views of two snowcapped volcanoes: The perfect cone of Osorno (2,680 metres) and the shattered cone of Calbuco (2,015 metres).

Becker suggested we bypass the main road and take a less travelled dirt road instead, which offered more views of the lake and a bucolic landscape. The drive was pleasant. We passed farmland, where 10 varieties of potatoes grow, and saw many more cows and sheep (and occasionally llamas) than people. Every so often one of the volcanoes would come into view.

It was an hour before we saw another vehicle -- a truck carrying salmon-filled tanks. Salmon farming is the most important industry in the area and Chile, Becker explained, is the third biggest salmon producer in the world after Norway and Canada.

"We have a very precise way to know if it's going to rain in this area," my guide explained, changing the subject. "If the wind is blowing from the south that means good weather for sure. If it's from the north that means water, rain."

There's no wind at all when we stop in Frutillar, the most German town in Chile, where you can buy apple strudel, drink Kunstmann beer or stay at the Hotel Klein Salzberg.

Frutillar, like Puerto Varas and a few other towns along the lake, was settled by German immigrants beginning in the 1850s. Apparently Chile encouraged settlers to the area to prevent a potential land grab from neighbouring Argentina. Today 35% of the town's population is of German descent. It seemed appropriate that Becker, whose mother is German, should be the one showing me around town.

A good historic introduction to the town can be found at the Museo Colonial Aleman de Frutillar. Behind a large garden out front is a watermill, replicas of two German colonial homes with furnishings, a circular barn with agricultural machinery inside and a blacksmith's shop where, for good luck, you can have your name engraved on a horse shoe for 3,000 pesos ($6).

Frutillar is also known for its highly regarded classical music festival, which takes place annually in late January and early February at Teatro del Lago (Theatre on the Lake).

By mid afternoon we're driving towards Las Cascadas, an area known for its empanadas (stuffed half-moon shaped pastries), then veer east for Petrohue on a paved road, where for the first time I catch sight of the Puntiagudo Volcano. I feel lucky to glimpse it's conical peak, which is usually obscured by clouds.

"There's a puma around here," said Becker. "They call it the Chilean lion, we may see one." Southeast of the lake, past fields of daisies, we enter the Vicente Perez Rosales National Park -- the oldest and one of the biggest national parks in Chile. A few metres past a souvenir shop selling alpaca sweaters for about $25, we take the short "Sendero los Saltos," trail where water spills over basalt columns against the backdrop of the Osorno Volcano.

The puma was nowhere in sight when we stopped at a placed called Bella Vista on the way back. We were told the animal, which had been on the property for 18 years, was gone. There was, however, a stunning view, as the name suggests, as well as an emu and lots of llamas milling about.

Having skipped lunch I decided to splurge on dinner back in Puerto Varas. I went looking for authentic Chilean cuisine and eventually found it at my hotel -- the Melia Patagonia.

If the meal was anything like the lodging I knew I'd be satisfied. And the price was right. I ordered a traditional dish -- lightly battered Sea Bass "a lo pobre," with onions, fries and a fried egg, which came to just 6,000 pesos ($12) -- not bad for an upscale eatery.

It turns out the scenery isn't the only thing worthy of a five-star rating in Chile's Lake District!

---

IF YOU GO

MORE INFORMATION

Puerto Varas is a good base for day trips in the region. The Melia Patagonia, on a hill above Lake Llanquihue, is a two-minute walk from the beach and the town centre. A comfortable and modern newish five-star hotel with 91 rooms, it has large outdoor patios overlooking the Osorno Volcano and spacious common areas with cozy couches and coffee table books about Chile to read. Check solmelia.com.

A few steps from the hotel is a very good wine shop, El Mundo del Vino, and the small new Schneider Museum with an impressive collection including Indian artifacts, old coins and a variety of antique armaments from colonial times.

Protours can be reached at protourschile.com or info@protourschile.com.


South America’s sexiest beaches

World's culture capitals

Where in Europe does one go to experience a little culture? Paris? Milan? Perhaps, but in 1990, the place to go was Glasgow, Scotland . That year the city was named European Capital of Culture by the European Union, and Glasgow's done its best to uphold that reputation ever since.

A number of new cultural institutions and buildings opened, including the Museum of Education in 1990 and the Gallery of Modern Art in 1996. By 2005, almost 30,000 people were employed in Glasgow's tourism industry.

The boom continues: City officials have promised to inject $300 million into cultural buildings and projects between 2006 and 2011. The city wants to keep selling itself as a vibrant place to work, live, invest and study. "Glasgow: Scotland With Style," is a slogan the city strives never to lose--and thus reaps the rewards. In Depth: World's Culture Capitals

Glasgow is just one example of a place that has pegged itself as a culturally dynamic destination in order to attract a growing number of "cultural tourists," or those traveling for more than sun, sand and a drink with a little umbrella in it.

Culture Sells
In 2007, 898 million people were classified as cultural tourists, compared with 538 million in 1995, according to a Jan. 14 report released by the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD), a Paris-based group of 30 democratic countries that provides economic and social statistics and data. The 159-page report, entitled "The Impact of Culture on Tourism," examines the economic and social significance of culture on tourism in several places around the world.

The report's take-home message: Follow Glasgow's lead. Reinforcing the importance of culture has stimulated economic growth, and made the city a desirable destination.

Same goes for Barcelona, Spain . Many thank the 1992 Summer Olympics for the city's revitalization. But Greg Richards, a partner at Barcelona- and London-based research firm Tourism Research and Marketing and the primary writer of the OECD report, says that it wasn't until the early 2000s--when the city launched a campaign promoting the historic importance of Catalonian architect Antoni Gaudí's work--that true culture vultures took notice.

"For quite some time and up until the 1970s, La Pedrera was a bingo hall," says Richards of one of Gaudí's most famous buildings. "What Barcelona has done very successfully is develop culture first and foremost. In return, they've seen an increase in tourism."

Due--at least in part--to its focus on cultural tourism, the city saw 11 million overnight visitors in 2005. But other than a lot of material to work with--including nine World Heritage Sites, great restaurants and captivating artwork--Barcelona had another element working in its favor. The city had the manpower to organize its cultural programs.

"You can have the cultural resources--historic buildings, etc.--but the key thing seems to be able to use those assets," says Richards. "You need to be able to manage and market it effectively."

Developing-World Challenges
That's the struggle facing places such as Kenya's Amboseli National Park. While there are special homesteads where tourists can experience Maasai culture, and learn about Kenya's 40-some ethnic groups, the politically troubled nation is on the U.S. Travel Warnings List. With few resources to help improve infrastructure and safety, it's difficult to draw in the crowds.

Singapore , by contrast, is better equipped than a developing nation like Kenya to become a center of culture. In 2008, Singapore officials branded the city-state "Global City for the Arts," drawing attention to the Singapore Art Museum (which exhibits Southeast Asian modern and contemporary art), as well as by adding a children's wing to the Asian Civilizations Museum. The new Singapore History Museum also opened last year.

While many perceive Singapore as a sterile business center, its cultural presence in the East is now undeniable.

Same goes for Luxembourg , which in 2007 became the first country ever named a European Capital of Culture. During the yearlong festivities, the area welcomed 3.3 million tourists and saw 6% growth in hotel occupancy from 2006. The event generated about $44 million for the local economy. Big draws were Musee d'Art Moderne, which opened in 2006 and the Philharmonie Luxembourg, a concert hall in Luxembourg City.

Young Travelers Fuel Growth
Ramping up the arts may not be enough, however. Richards believes that, for regions looking to cash in on their local culture, young travelers might be the key. Although youth travelers tend to spend less money per day than their elder counterparts, their vacations tend to last longer, which often generates more profit than the short, expensive trips taken by baby boomers.

Peru , for example, has marketed itself to young travelers--offering discounts for those with an International Student Identity Card--with significant results. Known both for its textiles and folk art as well as ancient structures and biodiversity, the OECD says that, today, Peru classifies 93% of its tourists as cultural tourists. And according to the Peruvian government, the country's tourism dollars reached $2.22 billion in 2008, an 11% increase from $2 billion in 2007.

"In a downturn like this, many young people will choose to travel at the end of their degree, rather than immediately embarking on a career," says Richards. "They might be the most effective target [for cultural tourism]."

So it seems there is hope for other culture-rich destinations, like Turkey's Çorum Province, the former center of the ancient Hittite civilization. Efforts there have been stonewalled by everything from a lack of accommodation to paved roads. That is, until now.

Following in the footsteps of successful centers of culture, the Turkish government's Ministry of Culture and Tourism held a workshop in 2008, encouraging local businesses to invest in cultural infrastructure. Because of this effort, a five-star hotel is now in development, according to the OECD.

It's too early to determine whether Çorum will succeed. However, Richards points out that every city has a story to tell. The better the residents tell it, the more tourists will come. In Depth: World's Culture Capitals


South America’s sexiest beaches
Interested in an Alias? ZAP is taking orders!
BAT 11dk: A Concept with a Cause

Robbie had a way with girls

ALLOWAY, Scotland -- From simple beginnings in a crofter's cottage to worldwide recognition, the birth 250 years ago of poet and lyricist Robert "Robbie" Burns is being widely celebrated in the highlands and lowlands.

Called Scotland's favourite son, the "Ploughman Poet" and "Bard of Ayrshire" spent his first seven years in this village on the River Doon.

Throughout the year, families and more than 100 communities are preparing celebrations. Tourism officials hope Scots around the world -- and descendants -- will visit, including for clan homecoming called "gatherings."

BOILED PUDDING

Even those who know little of Burns likely know of his Ode To A Haggis.

Scottish organizations mark his birth on Jan. 25 with banquets opened by someone reciting his best-known poem, then plunging a knife into the traditional dish.

The boiled pudding is usually blended sheep organ meats, minced onion, oatmeal, suet, spices, salt and liquid stock, but vegetable versions are also available.

On a recent return to the land of my ancestors, my grandfather's nephew, Dr. Findlay Macdonald, drove me south from Glasgow along the Clyde River. It was our first visit to the clay and thatch-roofed Burns cottage, which is filled with originals and copies of his letters and memorabilia.

The impoverished family moved to a farm in 1766, where heavy work left him permanently stooped and weakened.

SCANDALOUS

He and his six younger siblings were mostly taught at home by their father, tenant farmer William Burness, and a local teacher.

Burns' first poetry and songs were for girls he loved.

Scandalously drawn to dance and drink, he attracted church-goer wrath, especially when his first out-of-wedlock child was born to a servant.

Mind you, Burns was also wooing Jean Armour, daughter of a stonemason. After she bore him two of their nine children, her father relented to their marriage.

The first collection of his verses was printed in 1786. Poems, chiefly in the Scottish dialect, was a major literary event.

Invited to Edinburgh to oversee a revised edition's production, he became a society darling and greatly influenced Walter Scott, who became a famous Scottish historical novelist and poet.

Continuing social, romantic and writing pursuits, Burns penned over 400 songs, collected folk tunes, rejected invitations to be a journalist and a politician, and reconciled with his wife.

The most famous Burns song, Auld Lang Syne, performed around the world each New Year's Eve, is a promise to remember old friends.

With a weak heart and a bacterial infection after a tooth extraction, he died at 37 on July 21, 1796, in Dumfries.

The museum here houses copies of his works, written in both Scottish dialect and English, plus biographies, criticism of the church, the class structure, poverty and sexuality.

There is also great humour, expressed in bawdy tales, support for carousing, Scotch whisky and socialism. Above all, Robbie Burns keept alive the history of Scots in folklore and verse.

Taste of Burns poetry

To give you a taste for the poetry, if not the meal, the original Ode To A Haggis in Scottish dialect begins:

"Fair fa' your honest, sonsie face,

Great chieftain o' the puddin'-race!

Aboon them a' ye tak yer place,

Painch, tripe, or thairm:

Weel are ye wordy o' a grace

As lang's my airm."

A translation on Wikipedia, is perhaps better understood today:

"Nice seeing your honest, chubby face,

Great chieftain of the sausage race!

Above them all you take your place,

Belly, tripe, or links:

Well are you worthy of a grace

As long as my arm."

---

DETAILS

The cottage and museum are in the Burns National Heritage Park, on Alloway's main street, near Ayr, a railway and port town south of Glasgow Prestwick International Airport.

For more information on parades, festive evenings and other events, go online at homecomingscotland.com.To book Jan. 23-26 Burns Night accommodations, including a festive dinner, parades and golf, visit best-of-scotland.co.uk.


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World’s culture capitals

America's best snowy drives

As a record-breaking Arctic front settles over much of the Northeast this week, perhaps the best way to enjoy the sub-zero weather isn't by the fireplace but in your car.

From Alaska's Seward Highway to the Lake George Loop in New York, there are several great places to take a drive through snow-covered landscapes. There's even a road that runs through high desert--Utah's Scenic Byway 12 in Bryce Canyon--that probably doesn't immediately come to mind when considering snow.

Each route combines picturesque landscapes and ample amounts of snow over a course manageable in one day. These roads don't automatically close for the winter, but they still get enough of the white stuff to satisfy. In Depth: America's Best Snowy Drives

With an elevation of 9,318 feet and snowfall of more than 200 inches each winter, the village of Silverton, Colo.--surprisingly, for some tourists--doesn't close during the winter. In fact, it's a time of year the locals make the most of.

"We're kind of nestled in a volcanic caldera, so there's this nice little valley, a flat valley among four mountains, and driving upon Silverton is like this hidden gem in the mountains," says Gina Carmack, vice president of the Silverton Chamber of Commerce. "And the snow is so white and sparkly, we kid around and say it's like Cool Whip, because it's just so pristine. It's not like snow you see in the cities."

Onward and Upward
One of the roads on our list, the Payette River Scenic Byway, takes drivers along the Payette River from Boise to McCall, Idaho, gaining more than 2,000 feet in elevation along the way. It gives drivers access to hundreds of miles of ski and snowmobile trails, not to mention stunning views of the Payette River and a local landmark, the 106-year-old Rainbow Bridge.

The route starts out in the sage-covered foothills of Boise (population 198,638), but, by the time it reaches McCall (pop. 2,592), visitors can expect 4 to 6 feet of snow on the ground, says Delta James, a business and community development specialist living in Donnelly, Idaho.

"It follows the river, and it gradually becomes more wooded, so they'll see the snow-covered trees, pine trees, tamaracks, aspen trees, and they'll see the river in wintertime, which is really beautiful," James says. "It'll have snow piled on tops of rocks and things like that, so gradually they'll see more and more snow."

A perfect excuse to make the drive: McCall's annual Winter Festival, famous for its parade, snow sculptures, craft fair and music. The event, to be held Jan. 30-Feb. 8 this year, attracts thousands of visitors.

A New Look
If Idaho is a bit too far out of the way, try General's Highway in Sequoia and King's Canyon national parks in California, part of a region that sees 1.5 million visitors each year (most of them during the spring and summer). Seeing General Sherman, the largest tree in the world by volume, takes on a whole new meaning during the winter.

"Seeing giant sequoia trees in the winter with snow is a fantastic experience," says Jody Lyle, a spokeswoman for the National Park Service. "People tend to think of the trees in warm weather and all of that, but seeing them in the quiet snow is great."

The same applies for the Bryce Canyon, Zion and Arches national parks in Utah. While most people picture them as hot desert landscapes complete with jutting monoliths, the upper elevations get more than 100 inches of snow a year--and provide a haven for winter wildlife like elk and eagles.

"You cannot miss the Utah parks," Lyle says. "It's a spectacular landscape to see in the snow."

Prepare for Powder
The best way to get the most out of a scenic winter drive is to prepare for it--and that starts by calling ahead to check road conditions and for temporary road closures. Another good thing to know: Most parks have entrance fees, which usually apply per car and last for seven days.

Follow recommendations on whether or not to carry traction devices, and pack a flashlight, small shovel and matches in case a three-hour tour turns into something more taxing. (Mountainous regions and national forests get spotty cellphone service at best.)

"You might want to also keep a blanket or blankets, one for each person in the vehicle with you, or warm clothing--something that you can use if you do get stranded," says Ted Plank, road supervisor for Boulder County in Colorado.

Also be sure to build in time for photos or even stops at popular spots like Ben & Jerry's Homemade Ice Cream factory along Vermont's Route 100 and the Tony Award-winning theater along Massachusetts' Mohawk Trail.

Idaho's James suggests making time to grab lunch at Kit's Riverside Restaurant near Horseshoe Bend and to visit the local hatter, Randy Priest, at his Silver Tip Hat Company in Donnelly (pop. 147).

"You can go in, and he can make you a custom cowboy hat, or you can at least go in and learn about the process," James says.

 

Wherever you take a snowy drive, the main thing to remember is not to stay confined to the car. Do what the locals do, from watching snow-dusted bison in North Dakota's Theodore Roosevelt National Park to taking the annual polar bear plunge in Seward, Alaska.

 

"[People] live there because of the scenic quality and the recreational opportunities," James says. "I mean, that's why we live here."

And that's what visitors should take time to experience, if only briefly. In Depth: America's Best Snowy Drives


Romantic getaway in Mexico
Preparation and maintenance can reduce winter’s toll on your vehicle’s interior
South America’s sexiest beaches

Romantic getaway in Mexico

If you're going on your honeymoon, you want to be treated like Royal-ty.

And that's exactly how every guest feels at the Real Royal in Playa del Carmen, Mexico.

Newcomers at this adults-only resort are greeted by friendly staff and handed a mimosa within seconds of arriving at the resort.

After a quick check-in, you're free to explore the grounds of the Royal, which are in immaculate condition, thanks to an unparalleled workforce of 665 employees.

Royal general manager Beat Muller takes great pride in the work his employees provide in order to make your vacation one to remember.

"We have more employees than other resorts because we want to make sure our guests are comfortable," Muller says.

"We love God, our families and our guests. That's the main way we look at it.

"We want every person to feel welcome."

Mission accomplished.

Even at the Spice restaurant, which is a magnificent buffet of every food imaginable, the young staff hustles to meet the needs of every diner.

There are numerous restaurants to choose from, featuring the best menus from around the globe.

It's impossible not to find one great meal after another. My wife is a vegetarian. I eat meat almost exclusively. We both found fabulous food at each of the resort's six restaurants.

It's probably impossible, but if you can't find what you're looking for, the chefs will prepare it.

Guests are also encouraged to try the restaurants across the street at The Gran Porto Real, the resort's sister hotel.

The Royal resort in nearby Cancun is also available to vacationers.

The Playa del Carmen resort was expanded from 312 to 459 rooms last year to keep up with increasing demand.

"This is one of the fastest-growing cities in Mexico," Muller says.

All Master and Presidential Suites include free international telephone calls and a free test drive of a Mini Cooper. Oceanview rooms come with a Bose music system and an iPod.

And the resort is located right off of cosmopolitan 5th Ave., a popular shopping destination.

While some resorts have been known to use cheaper brands of alcohol, that isn't the case at the Royal, which proudly displays all of its high-quality liquor at its many bars. Each room also has its own dispenser featuring four different kinds of alcohol, as well as a stocked mini-bar.

The convenient swim-up bar and massive Lobby Bar are two of the most popular hangouts.

Guys, it's probably not advisable to spend your honeymoon watching football. But let's face it. If there's a big game on, we gotta watch it.

Maybe you 'accidentally' stumble into the enormous Lobby Bar -- where there just happens to be three huge screens. You won't be alone here.

Later in the evening, the Lobby Bar plays host to a different entertainment act every night.

If you want to push the envelope even further, there are numerous pro golf courses nearby -- the Playacar Golf Club, Puerto Aventuras, Pok Ta Pok, Cozumel Country Club and the Melia Cancun Golf Club, to name a few.

You may be able to get away with a round or two if you send the wife to the European-inspired SpAzul.

The spa offers a full range of treatments, including facials, massage therapies and body waxing. A separate steam room, sauna and whirlpool are also on site.

Twenty-four hour room service is available.

And if you're taking advantage of the Jacuzzi, which is found in every room, you won't have to worry about scrambling to the door.

The Royal's 'magic box' allows resort staffers to deposit your order in a secure closet that you can access at your convenience.

There's plenty of activities during the day -- both on and off the grounds. There are numerous adventure tours to choose -- from touring the ancient ruins at Tulum to swimming with the dolphins in Cancun.

Check out Mexico's finest vacation destination at www.realresorts.com or call 1-800-543-7556 to book a reservation.


World’s 20 tallest & biggest
Preparation and maintenance can reduce winter’s toll on your vehicle’s interior
South America’s sexiest beaches

World's 20 tallest & biggest

The Tower of Babel, whose top was meant to reach unto heaven, was destroyed by an angry God, who wished to punish human hubris and reserve the best views for himself. 

As we humans have, inevitably, built our way back into the heavens, we have also continuously competed over the record for the world’s tallest building. That record is currently held by the Taipei 101 Tower in Taiwan. Built in 2004, the Taipei 101 rises to 1,671 feet easily beating out the Ancient Babylonian Ziggurat scholars name as a possible source for the Biblical tower (which stood around 300 feet tall). But Taiwan has little time to gloat. The Burj Dubai Tower is scheduled for completion in 2009, and its height—a closely guarded secret—is rumored to be over 2,200 feet.

See our slideshow of World's 20 Biggest and Tallest. Complicating matters is the definition of “tallest building” itself. Until 1998, the Sears Tower in Chicago (1,730 feet) was considered the tallest building in the world. Then along came Malaysia’s Petronas Towers, whose antennae, in a direct slap at Midwestern supremacy, extended 30 feet higher than that of the Sears Tower. (The Patronas Towers building without the antennae is, in fact, smaller than the Sears). Finally two organizations—Emporis, a real estate data company headquartered in Germany, and the imaginatively named Council on Tall Buildings and Urban Habitat located in Illinois—stepped in to clarify matters.  The term "building" is now defined as a “continuously inhabited structure,” thus creating the new category of “tallest free-standing structure,” a title currently held by the CN Tower in Toronto. Architectural height is now measured in four separate categories: Height to Architectural Tip (including spires but excluding antennae); Height to Top of Roof (excluding spires); Height to Tip (including everything) and Highest Occupied Floor (a measure of the tallest building with continuously occupied floors). Currently the Petronas Towers has been superseded in all four categories. Problem would seem to be solved, though the dispute rages on in cyberspace, where the CN Tower, for instance, still proudly refers to itself as the “tallest building in the world.” Of course Worrell’s Seafood Restaurant in Wilson, North Carolina, also claims to have the “World Tallest Replica of the World’s Tallest Lighthouse” in its parking lot, so clearly you can’t believe everything you read on the Internet. Nevertheless, here are 20 interesting record-holding places to visit throughout the world.

See our slideshow of World's 20 Biggest and Tallest.



South America’s sexiest beaches
AJAC announces top three finalists for Car of the Year Awards
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South America's sexiest beaches

South America’s sexiest beaches are not limited by which hotel you choose to stay at, which island you have access to or which beach club knows your name. If you are looking for exclusivity, this is not your place. However, if you are seeking boiling-hot beach culture, barely-there bikinis and staggering scenery, you have come to the right place.

“If you want to come to a beautiful beach to not just sit around, but also to have a lot of fun and to meet beautiful people, then you should come to South America,” says Rio de Janeiro local, surfer and, of course, soccer player Tiago Mello Silva.

Even the most highly regarded and world-famous of South American beaches—Brazil’s Copacabana and Ipanema or Uruguay’s Punta del Este—are part of a broad, welcoming beach lifestyle that feeds off of the energy of the thousands of beachgoers from all walks of life. But what truly makes South American beaches such iconic and sexy places is not just the vibrant beach cultures, but the fact that those characteristics are combined with natural beauty nonpareil.

See our slideshow of South America's Sexiest Beaches.

South America is a land of raw natural splendor and physical extremes. It is widely known that the land is home to the world's longest exposed mountain range, The Andes; the largest river, the Amazon River; and the largest rainforest in the Amazon Basin. Less known is the fact that the Amazon rainforest is in the same continent as the Atacama Desert, the driest desert outside of Antarctica; the low-lying Amazon River is not so far from Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world, and the formidable Andes range runs near the continent’s seemingly endless coastline. The coastline, most of which falls between the equator and the Tropic of Capricorn, is brimming with excellent beaches. Only two South American countries, Bolivia and Paraguay, do not have any coast. The waters are relatively warm and swimmable year-round off of every bit of the continent except for the Southern extremes of Chile and Argentina.

These powerful physical characteristics supply the foundation to the sexiness factor of South American beaches and inform the sexiness of the frequently extroverted and vivacious cultures. Brazil has the longest coastline along the Atlantic Ocean, with some 7,491 miles of waterfront real estate. The country’s beaches range from remote spots only accessible by dune buggy to world-renowned hot spots backed by massive cities like Rio de Janeiro. Brazilian scenery and beach culture are perhaps the most famous of the continent and among the most famous in the world. In Brazil, the beach is not just a place to go for recreation or relaxation; it is a way of life and a deep thread embedded in the national culture.

See our slideshow of South America's Sexiest Beaches.

Uruguay is home to Punta del Este, a sandy peninsula that has long attracted an international fan base, from President John F. Kennedy to the swarms of Argentine nationals who seek the warmer waters and sandier coastline on the other side of the River Plate. Buenos Aires native and perennial Punta del Este seasonal visitor Diego Lalo says, “Punta del Este is part Buenos-Aires-sophistication and part sunny-beach-bliss. It is the perfect balance.” Moving farther north up the coast, Colombia and Venezuela both have numerous gorgeous beach destinations and a sexy culture. Many travelers do not intuitively associate these countries with sexy beaches, but that is simply because Colombia and Venezuela have been off the international tourism radar until recently. Ecuador, Peru and Northern Chile are also becoming increasingly popular as beach destinations, surfing destinations and sexy world-class beach spots. Even southerly Argentina—home to much of the storied, yet chilly Patagonia region and Aconcagua, the highest peak in the continent—brings some sensuous beaches to the table. 

It should be noted that there are few major topless or nude beaches on the continent. While women, particularly in Brazil, wear tiny bikinis and men often wear Speedos, people tend to like to leave a little bit to the imagination.


World’s 20 tallest & biggest
AJAC announces top three finalists for Car of the Year Awards

Orleans kicks off Carnival

NEW ORLEANS - Roll out the king cakes, plastic beads and Mardi Gras masks. Carnival season has begun in New Orleans.

Jan. 6, the 12th night on the biblical calendar, marked the beginning of the 153rd annual pre-Lenten celebration. Before it wraps up Feb. 24, almost 100 parades will have rolled in the area and thousands of riders will have thrown tonnes of glitzy gee-gaws to what organizers hope will be huge crowds.

"The celebration is pretty local for a couple of weeks," said Mardi Gras historian Errol Laborde. "But the parades kick in just before the end of the month, and then it's pretty much nonstop."

Mayor Ray Nagin acknowledged the start of the season with the city's annual king cake party, slicing up dozens of pastries covered with purple, green and gold icing, and each holding a tiny, plastic baby. Tradition has it that the person getting the baby in their slice of cake must supply the next king cake.

King cakes, believed to have originated in France around the 12th century, are eaten throughout Carnival season, but on 12th night, or the Feast of the Epiphany, they mark the arrival of the three wise men bearing gifts 12 days after Christmas.

In New Orleans, with its tourism-oriented economy, the rowdy celebration represents both fun and business.

"This is a time of year when everybody can kind of get together and do their own thing and make money at the same time," Nagin said. "So we're looking forward to it."

Unlike last year, when the NBA All-Star game and the Bowl Championship Series title game were added to the city's usual lineup of the Bayou Classic, New Orleans Bowl, and Sugar Bowl, this year Mardi Gras will stand as the solitary big money draw between the Sugar Bowl and Jazz Fest.

A study by a Tulane University economist in 2000 showed a steady growth in Mardi Gras attendance and spending over a decade. Although that dropped after hurricane Katrina in 2005, the event has been rebuilding since then.

Mardi Gras generates more than US$1 billion in spending each year, said Mary Beth Romig of the Greater New Orleans Visitors and Convention Bureau.

Similar but smaller celebrations are held along the French-influenced Gulf Coast.

Despite the financial downturn nationally and a sluggish tourism economy, hotel bookings for Mardi Gras are ahead of last year's pace, said Mavis Early, executive director of the Greater New Orleans Hotel and Lodging Association.

"We are very happy with Mardi Gras bookings to date, and we expect to have the best year yet since Katrina," Early said.

Billed as the "Greatest Free Show on Earth," there is no charge to those attending the parades, but for those riding on the floats, the cost can be high. The riders shoulder the cost of all "throws" - the strings of beads, toys and trinkets showered on crowds along the parade route.

At Randazzo's Camellia City Bakery, one of more than a dozen bakeries that ship king cakes nationally and internationally, orders for king cakes began coming in before Christmas, said saleswoman Cindi Picou, and will continue through "Fat Tuesday."

"We'll send out more than 2,000 cakes in the next few weeks," Picou said Tuesday.

As the season kicked off Jan. 6, the group Phunny Phorty Phellows was scheduled to take its traditional streetcar ride up St. Charles Avenue, signalling the official start of the season.

The Phorty Phellows, an historic Mardi Gras organization, this year was hosting the king and queen of Zulu, the traditional black Carnival organization that is celebrating its 100th anniversary.

"The Phorty Phellows is a low-key event," Laborde said. "It's just one streetcar full of people, but there are people along the route who set up tables and have buffets and champagne to mark the passing. It's a symbol of the opening of the season."

Rendezvous with history

PANAMA -- Before sunrise, hundreds of sleepy passengers begin to gather on the forward decks of the Zuiderdam to watch the ship's progress into the first set of locks at the Panama Canal.

Pink-edged clouds hover low in the sky and threaten to soak those who rose early to witness the spectacle. Even at 6:30 a.m., it's hot and the humidity is oppressive.

The heavy air is abuzz with anticipation. For many people, this is the main event, the highlight of Holland America Line's 10-night Southern Caribbean & Panama Canal Sunfarer Cruise, which makes a partial transit of the canal from the Caribbean, through the locks into Gatun Lake and back.

Each year, almost 15,000 ships -- from private yachts to enormous freighters to cruise ships -- routinely pass between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans through these locks.

A complete transit of the locks from ocean to ocean takes about eight to 10 hours, during which time three sets of double locks raise ships 25.9 metres (about eight storeys) above sea level, carry them across the Continental Divide and lower them back down to sea level on the other side.

While it's a routine procedure today, building the 77-km shipping route is the stuff of legend. Christopher Columbus was the first of many to envision such a link, says Zuiderdam travel guide Dr. Richard Detrich.

An ex-pat American, a few years ago Detrich and his wife retired to a small coffee farm in Panama's Chiriqui Mountains. The author, motivational speaker and former minister is passionate about his adopted homeland, its history and its culture. He loves sharing his passion with passengers during entertaining lectures and informal "chats" around the ship.

Detrich says visionaries could see that building a canal across the narrow S-shaped Isthmus of Panama would eliminate the need for merchant ships to make the treacherous journey around Cape Horn, off the tip of South America, and shave thousands of kilometres and considerable expense off the voyage between the two oceans.

But the idea remained a dream for centuries.

Starting in 1881, the French were the first to attempt to dig a canal through the dense rainforest of the Isthmus. Massive landslides, heat and diseases such as malaria and yellow fever claimed the lives of some 21,900 workers before the project was abandoned.

In the early 1900s the United States -- under U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt -- took over the project, which would claim another 5,600 souls before the completed canal opened its locks to international trade on Aug. 15, 1914.

As the Zuiderdam waits for its turn to enter the Gatun Lock, there is informative commentary from the bridge and a mimosa toast on deck. Panama rolls and hot chocolate are also served.

Passengers who want to immerse themselves in the canal experience can sign up for a shore tour that will take them to an excellent visitor centre at the Miraflores locks.

For many people on board, the canal is the primary reason for selecting this itinerary. But the 10-day cruise provides many other diversions as well.

Sailing roundtrip out of Fort Lauderdale, Fla., the Zuiderdam also makes port calls at Half Moon Cay in the Bahamas, the islands of Aruba and Curacao -- part of the Netherlands Antilles -- and Puerto Limon, Costa Rica.

Each stop has it's own personality and its own allure.

During our cruise, windy weather made it impossible for us to stop at Half Moon Cay so we were treated to a pool party on board instead. But in general, the Bahamas have some of the best beaches in the Caribbean making Half Moon Cay -- Holland America's private island -- ideal for a lazy day beach day with lots of tall cool fruity beverages and frothy novels.

In Aruba, passengers can hit one of many great beaches, take shore trips -- diving, snorkelling, windsurfing, jeep tours etc. -- or exercise their credit cards in Oranjestad.

Aruba, like Curacao, has historical links to the Netherlands. Visitors will find reproduction Dutch-style buildings painted in pretty pastels and Dutch-style souvenirs, but the ambiance is more Caribbean with a touch of Europe.

In Curacao, Willemstad, is a charming port. Its historical city centre -- some 750 authentic Dutch colonial buildings with unique Caribbean touches such as brightly coloured facades, wooden shutters and verandahs -- are designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Like many Dutch towns, Willemstad's narrow streets lead to leafy squares. And there is a mix of cultural influences -- including African, West Indies and Spanish. But the vibe is distinctly South American, probably owing to the island's proximity to Venezuela 65 km away.

Along the waterfront in the Punda area, Venezuelan merchants sell fresh produce and fish from small boats.

A walk across the floating pontoon bridge takes you to Otrobanda (the other side) and more historical buidings. A huge section of the former Kura Hulanda slum has been rehabilitated into a historical area and the Rif Fort has been transformed into a picturesque cobblestoned pedestrian shopping and dining area.

Our last port stop before sailing for Florida is Puerto Limon. Costa Ricans have embraced eco-tourism and the country offers many opportunities for visitors to take in its natural beauty. We opt for the Caribbean Train, Eco-cruise and Countryside excursion that combines a boat trip up the Tortuguero canal for wildlife viewing and a steam train ride to a banana plantation.

Known as the "Amazon" of Costa Rica, lush rainforest lines both sides of the canal. While gliding across the still water on the canal boat, our guide points out sloths hanging from trees, teeny tiny tree bats, ferocious sounding howler monkeys, tropical birds, and lizards and iguanas that blend so well with their surroundings they are almost invisible, proving the guide's point that there are 300 shades of green in the rainforest.

During the train ride to the banana plantation we stop along a beautiful stretch of beach that looks as if it has been untouched by humans.

Before reboarding the Zuiderdam, we stroll around the little market at the port. There's an excellent selection of Costa Rican coffee and locally made jewelry. A makeshift salon offers mini massages for tired passengers.

Fortunately there are two sea days left to recuperate before we dock in Fort Lauderdale and have to face up to the reality of a Toronto winter.

Back on board, there's lots to do: Dining in the Pinnacle Grill -- where both the food and the service rival that of many restaurants on land -- relaxing over afternoon tea -- both Dutch and Indonesian style -- indulging in the midnight dessert buffet, and attending a cooking demonstration in the slick Culinary Arts Centre (you'll feel like you are in the audience of a TV food show).

And, contrary to urban legend, there are cruise activities that don't involve eating.

The thermal suite at the Greenhouse spa has a hydrotherapy pool, sauna, aromatherapy room and heated ceramic loungers that face out to sea -- calorie free and tres relaxing.

The evening shows have been taken up several notches with elaborate sets and costumes by fashion-designer-to-the-stars Bob Mackie.

And even though it's only two days, there is still time to relax on the deck of our verandah suite and take in the simple pleasures of life at sea.

---

BOTTOMLINE

CRUISES

This winter, Zuiderdam will be sailing a 10-day Southern Caribbean & Panama Canal Cruise itinerary through April 8. The cruises resume Oct. 14 for the balance of 2009.

Sample fares for this itinerary listed on Holland America's website start from $890 for an inside cabin, $995 for an ocean view cabin, $1,258 for a verandah cabin, and $1,888.95 for a suite. The cruise only fares are per person and based on double occupancy. For details, see hollandamerica.com.

PANAMA CANAL

For more on the Panama Canal, including the Miraflores Visitor Center, visit the Panama Canal Authority website at panamacanal.com.

FLIGHTS

Several airlines fly direct to Fort Lauderdale from Toronto's Pearson International Airport.

Beach bums on wheels

There are few spots in the U.S. that can make a teenager's eyes pop wider than the beach scene in Los Angeles. From its California skaters and surfer girls to its basketball courts and bike parks, the enormous strand of white sand along the Gold Coast from Santa Monica to Venice and beyond sees a lot of outrageous, trend-starting action.

One of the most interactive ways to experience it first hand is on a bike -- available for rent at beachside kiosks by Legends Beach Bike Tours and Rentals. For about $35 per person, you can rent practically any type of bike on the market, or upgrade to an eye-opening guided bike tour.

Our tour was led by company owner Richard Chacker, a self-described SoCal (Southern California) beach bum and ex-hippie who, after years of beachside debauchery, turned his beach hangout into a lucrative business.

A typical tour starts at the enormous Santa Monica Pier, which juts into the ocean so far it has space for a ferris wheel and carousel. Chacker points north toward Malibu to the beach beyond where Pamela Anderson and David Hasselhof shook their booties on Baywatch.

38-KM OF PATH

The cycling tour then heads south. There's 38 km of path total -- Chacker says it's the longest continuous paved trail in America -- leading from Santa Monica, past Venice, Manhattan and Hermosa Beaches all the way down to Torrance Beach. The most popular stretch is the 11 km between Santa Monica and Marina Del Rey -- the birthplace of many a hot trend.

"This is where surfing got its start in America," says Chacker. The modern version of lifeguarding and beach volleyball started on this stretch of beach, too -- there are dozens of sand courts full of buff players at all times of the day. And it's in the parking lots behind Santa Monica Beach that inline skating began. The home of Dogtown and Z Boys and their skateboard culture is not far from the pier.

Just south of the Santa Monica Pier is Muscle Beach, which from 1934 to 1958 was as big in America as surfing and skating are now. It was the start of the fitness craze and the infamous hangout of bodybuilders like Joe Gold (of Gold's Gym) and Arnold Schwarzenegger.

Santa Monica is also the home of more than 85 art galleries. Says Chacker: "Locals consider Santa Monica to be the cultural centre of L.A."

Inland slightly from Venice Beach are the meandering canals that inspired this location's name back in 1820.

VENICE OF AMERICA

It's worth hopping off the bike and strolling along the canals, if only to peek at the bohemian houses that line the shores, with their little docks, kayaks and paddle boats parked out front.

They say Julia Roberts lives here somewhere, along with many other celebs.

For details on bike rentals along L.A.'s Gold Coast or the Legends Beach Bike Tour, visit perryscafe.com.

Kangaroo country

SYDNEY, Australia -- Can you visit Down Under without the cost going up and over? Too right, mate.

Australia is a long way from just about everywhere else and the airfare alone will blow a big hole in any travel budget. But in Sydney, the country's largest city and one of its major drawcards, some of the best things to do and see are free, or nearly so.

THE HARBOUR

From the landmark Sydney Opera House and the harbour bridge to towering skyscrapers, parks and multimillion-dollar mansions, Sydney huddles around the glittering azure waters of Port Jackson.

The best way to see it all is by boat, though a charter cruise can cost thousands. Instead, take one of the ferries that shuffle workers to and from downtown each day,

From Circular Quay, ride past the opera house, the former prison island of Fort Denison and some of the city's most exclusive properties (ask a local if they can point out Russell Crowe's apartment at Woolloomooloo) to Watson's Bay for about $4.30 return, sydneyferries.info.

Buy takeout fish and chips on the wharf and brave the seagulls on the small beach before retiring to the Watson's Bay Hotel beer garden -- watsonsbayhotel.com.au/ -- to watch the sun set over the city skyline.

THE ICONS

The white sails that form the roof of the Sydney Opera House -- sydneyoperahouse.com -- make it one of the world's most recognizable buildings, and one of the greatest meldings of architecture and art. You can take a guided tour of the interior for about $23 and hear the tragedy-tinged story of architect Joern Utzon's masterpiece. But the real appeal is the exterior, and it costs nothing to look. The thickest crowds are at dusk, when kids run up and slide down parts of the building and people mill around the steps.

From there, it's impossible to miss the Sydney Harbour Bridge, known as "The Coathanger." Guided climbs to the apex are very popular, but prices start at about $149 -- bridgeclimb.com. But you can walk across it at street level for nothing and still get a look at the opera house and the harbour.

THE BEACH

Bondi Beach, one of dozens that cut into the cliffs along Sydney's coast, is one of the world's most famous. During summer, thousands vie for space in the sand. In winter, latte-slurpers huddle behind glass windows or under gas-fired heaters in the cafes and restaurants along the strip.

Sydney's rail network doesn't quite reach Bondi, but a train and bus "Link Ticket" will get you from Central Railway Station right to the promenade for about $6.50 return, cityrail.info.

When you're done with the sun, hit the Bondi Icebergs club -- icebergs.com.au -- for a cold beer, pub-style food and stunning views. If the traditional southerly afternoon buster (a stiff wind) is bringing in a storm, there are few places better to watch thunderheads roll in from the sea. The south end of Bondi marks the start of a walking path along a spectacular coastline of sheer rock cliffs and beaches to Coogee about 6 km away.

FOOD

Sydney's multicultural makeup is reflected in its food, from tapas at Captain Torres, 73 Liverpool St., or other eateries in the Spanish Quarter to falafel and creamy tadziki at Abdul's, at Cleveland and Elizabeth streets in Surry Hills. On Goulbourn St. in Chinatown, the unpretentious BBQ King offers some of the best Chinese food outside of Asia. Go early or be prepared to wait.

ACCOMMODATION

Sydney's tourist districts are dotted with hostel and backpacker-style accommodation. See yha.com.au for listings. Or try an Internet site such as wotif.com and needitnow.com.au, which offer deals on late-notice hotel bookings. For real local flavour, gumtree.com.au lists short-term rentals of Sydneysiders' homes.

Canada's best hotels

Canada's finest luxury hotel experiences are as diverse as the country itself, featuring historic city hotels, island retreats and mountain ski lodges. They reach literally high and low—from the Canadian Rockies to the Pacific shoreline—while stretching from Vieux Québec to Vancouver Island. You'll find the finest of them on this year's list of Canada's 10 Best Hotels, an honor roll of luxury properties chosen by the Forbes Traveler 400 board of experts, who gathered to determine the world's finest luxury hotels and resorts.

We'll begin, as French colonial settlers did, with the city of Québec, starting with the Hotel Dominion 1912 in the city's original Old Port district. The neighborhood itself visibly mixes four centuries of tradition while reflecting a distinctly 21st-century sensibility. Art galleries, cafés and specialty boutiques line some of the city's most historic streets—and this boutique hotel, described by one Forbes Traveler expert as "charming, with a perfect location," reflects much the same vibe, mixing classic 1912 iron and stone architecture with modern design and high-end amenities.

See our slideshow of Canada's 10 Best Hotels.

Montreal's Old Town is the home of the Hotel Le St-James, a restored 1870 landmark building that once housed the city's largest bank. The Hotel Le St-James was praised by several experts as "wonderful" and having "excellent service." The top end here is a 3,500-square-foot apartment suite whose private 1,500-square-foot terrace has exceptional city views. For a bit of extra luxury, the hotel maintains a Rolls-Royce Phantom, a Bentley Continental and a Mayback 57S, all available for airport transfers or private city tours.

The Four Seasons Toronto is one of the top business hotels in Canada's top business city, located in trendy Yorkville just outside the central commercial district. In addition to the level of comfort and elegance that Four Seasons has helped standardize worldwide, guests will also find a 24-hour business center with computers, mobile phones and secretarial services available. The highlight here is Truffles, a spacious French contemporary restaurant among the city's best. Also in Yorkville, the Windsor Arms is a splendid all-suite boutique hotel whose cold Victorian architecture belies its warm interiors and up-to-date style. A favorite of visiting artists and musicians, the Windsor Arms ("a hidden gem," in the words of one Forbes Traveler expert) also offers high tea in a French-style tea room and an excellent steakhouse.

The Canadian Rockies are represented by the Fairmont Banff Springs, where golf, skiing and the stunning beauty of the mountains themselves are celebrated in a huge 770-unit structure modeled on a Scottish baronial castle. Your body will get a workout here, whether on the slopes, on the links in the 38,000-square-foot Willow Stream spa—one of the finest in the country. Spring for a room with a mountain view, breathe the crisp mountain air for a few days and enjoy the fleeting thoughts of never leaving.

See our slideshow of Canada's 10 Best Hotels.

World-class skiing is also on tap at the two of the hotels on this list. Whistler's trails were chosen to host alpine skiing events for the 2010 Winter Olympics, and both the stylish Four Seasons Whistler and the larger Fairmont Chateau Whistler offer high-end accommodation while you're carving your way through some of the world's finest powder. The Fairmont Chateau has better access to Blackcomb, but the Four Seasons takes a slight edge for service. Both hotels offer quality spa and dining facilities, multiple whirlpools and similar amenities; both hotels were also described by different Forbes Traveler experts as having Whistler's "best location." Your choice will come down to personal preference.

On Vancouver Island, the Sooke Harbour House was the clear choice in the British Columbia capital of Victoria. Located on Whiffen Spit Beach, where seals, otters and passing whales are not uncommon, and facing the Olympic mountains across the Juan de Fuca Strait, each of the 28 rooms features a woodburning fireplace, antique furnishings and a private terrace or balcony with dramatic ocean views. The restaurant grows its own vegetables and herbs in a nearby garden, and the wine list is one of the country's best. Further outside the city, the Wickaninnish Inn in Tofino hugs the western edge of the island through wind, rain, and long winter nights—all the better for enjoying the warmth and comfort of the Ancient Cedars Spa.

Finally, in the city of Vancouver, the Opus Hotel is a youthful 96-unit boutique property in the fashionable Yaletown district, walking distance from the city's business district and wobbling distance from some of Vancouver's best watering holes. (A complimentary car service is available in case you need to go elsewhere downtown.) Guestrooms are designed in five distinct flavors, ranging from clean lines to funky, vibrant colors; amenities are top-shelf; and the business, fitness, food and concierge services target savvy urban professionals with eclectic tastes and unpredictable work hours.

There's no one thread that connects all ten Canadian properties on this year's Forbes Traveler list—but in a country like Canada, where multiculturalism and a broad diversity of lifestyles is celebrated as a strength, that's entirely appropriate.