10 ways to get hotel upgrades

When 24/7 Real Media chairman and founder David J. Moore arrived at Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas, it could have been one of the worst travel experiences of his life. His flight had been repeatedly delayed, it was 4 a.m. and he had to wake up early the next morning for a conference. Instead, he scored an upgrade to the best room in the hotel: the top executive suite, replete with mirrored ceilings and an enormous hot tub.

That was 15 years ago. These days, with fewer reservations on the books and less money changing hands, hotel upgrades are harder than ever to come by. But that doesn’t mean they’re impossible. Many seasoned travelers attribute their most impressive upgrades to a combination of luck and overbooking, but our insider, a front desk manager at a luxury Atlanta hotel, says there are a few measures you can take to put yourself in a more favorable position to be upgraded.

See our slideshow on Getting Hotel Upgrades.

“Staying only one night, coming in late and traveling when there’s a conference in town make it easier to give someone an upgrade,” he says. That’s because short stays and late arrivals free up the staff to move people around, and traveling during major events makes it more likely all of the smaller rooms will be occupied, allowing the management to offer the top suites as an alternative to relocating guests to another hotel. And while our insider concedes that the best upgrades are partially a function of luck, he says the front desk staff has more control than most patrons realize.

“We want to keep people happy,” he says. “We could be under-booked, and if someone comes up and is really pleasant, but obviously exhausted, I’ll give him a nicer view, or a bigger bed.”  

Even if you’re well rested, just starting a brief conversation with the staff about events you have planned on your vacation can confer benefits. Guests who are celebrating birthdays or anniversaries, or who just need extra room to work can often procure an upgrade by mentioning their situation to the front desk managers, says former Opus hotel manager Daniel Edward Craig.

Playing nice with the management is important for another reason as well: It will make them more likely to remember you, and hotels are big on loyalty. Quintin Payton, a New York City-based freelance stylist, has experienced the benefits of customer loyalty first-hand at the Savoy Hotel in Miami, where he regularly stays for both business and pleasure. “I’ve stayed there so often, even the maid recognizes me,” he says. “Now, when I go, they always give me the same room, no matter what I booked; I never have to pay for parking, which is supposed to be $30 a day; and they never charge me for the mini-bar.”  

So, if you’ve booked your favorite hotel during the 31,000-strong Society for Neuroscience conference, and have arrived haggard looking in the middle of the night, but no upgrades seem forthcoming? “Just ask,” says our informant. “If you’re nice and you act important, we’ll probably give you something.”

See our slideshow on Getting Hotel Upgrades.



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10 restaurants full of history

Although America has always had its taverns and inns serving food ever since the Pilgrims got here, the restaurant as we know it — a place where you can sit at your own table, have your own waiter, and order from a menu — is of rather recent origin. None is more famous than Boston’s Durgin-Park café, still serving much the same kind of New England fare, although you’ll sit just as they did when it opened in 1827, at common tables with visitors from all over the world.

Full-fledged restaurants began to open in Paris after the fall of the monarchy (the royal cooks needed the jobs), but the word “restaurant” doesn’t even appear in American print until 1824 when novelist James Fenimore Cooper made note of the “renowned Parisian restaurants.” Seven years later, however, a Swiss sea captain named Giovanni Del-Monico brought the concept to New York’s Wall Street area and named it after himself, Delmonico’s. Its success made him and his family rich, and he opened successive Delmonico’s further and further uptown, the last at 44th St. and 5th Avenue. The second of these, opened on Beaver Street in 1832, is to this day one of the most popular restaurants in lower Manhattan.

See our slideshow of 10 Restaurants Full of History

By then the restaurant had become synonymous with fine dining, and just about every important personage in New York and famous visitor to the city, including Charles Dickens and William Makepeace Thackeray, dined at “Del’s,” as its competitors, like Rector’s and Louis Sherry, became equally notable for the grandeur and scale of their décor and cuisine.

Other restaurants took their lead from the New York model, and in 1840 Marseilles-born Antoine Alciatore opened Antoine’s Restaurant on New Orlean's Rue St. Louis in 1840, becoming so much a fixture of the city’s social life—surviving the Civil War, Prohibition, and Hurricane Katrina—that local food writer Gene Bourg contends, “New Orleans without Antoine’s would be like Giza without the Great Pyramid.” It was at Antoine’s that dishes like oysters Rockefeller were created, and generations of New Orleanians claimed not only their favorite dining rooms but the same waiters over decades.

As American expanded westward so did the restaurant concept, most often in grand new hotels like the Palmer House in Chicago, the Sinton Hotel in Cincinnati, the Planters Inn in St. Louis, and The Brown Palace Hotel in Denver, which opened in 1892. Still the best hotel in the city, with four stars from the Mobil Travel Guide, The Brown Palace has maintained the glorious Gilded Age décor of its Palace Arms restaurant, a richly paneled, sumptuous place whose wine cellar has a “Best of Award of Excellence” from Wine Spectator. Every U.S. president since Teddy Roosevelt, except Coolidge, has visited The Brown Palace.

Jack’s has been on Sacramento Street in San Francisco’s Financial District since 1864 and was one of the few buildings to escape destruction from the 1906 earthquake. It is now owned by French chef Philippe Jeanty, who has attached his name to it as Jeanty at Jack’s, but has kept the beautiful Belle Epoque décor and serves many of the classic French dishes the restaurant was known for.

Ethnic restaurants—German beer halls, Jewish delis, Italian pizzerias, Mexican chili parlors—proliferated at the end of the 19th century, including many that are still going strong, like Barbetta (1906), Gargiulo’s (1907), Katz’s Delicatessen (1888), and Heidelberg Restaurant (1936), all in New York; Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana (1925) in New Haven; Locke-Ober in Boston; and El Cholo, which debuted in Los Angeles in 1923 as one of the first Mexican eateries to attract a Hollywood celebrity crowd. The L.A. Times has said, “the El Cholo restaurants have pretty much defined Mexican restaurant food in the Southland, and, by extension, most of the rest of the country.” The original, on South Western Avenue, has pretty much kept most of the décor and all of the leafy garden ambience of those days, and finely honed the hospitality for which it has long been famous. You may still find stars like Jack Nicholson, Warren Beatty, Nolan Ryan, Elizabeth Taylor, and Tom Hanks dropping by for the margaritas and enchiladas.

See our slideshow of 10 Restaurants Full of History

Prohibition crippled fine dining in America throughout the 1920s, when most of the grand dining halls like Louis Sherry’s and Rector’s went out of business for lack of a drinking clientele. In their stead came the speakeasies, most of them seedy places serving dreadful food and bad booze. One exception was the notorious '21' Club in New York, which catered to New York society, show biz, and politicians—Mayor “Beau” James Walker entertained showgirls in the private wine cellar. The liquor was the best money could smuggle in and the food, while outrageously expensive, among the finest in New York. Today '21' is thriving at its original location on West 52nd Street, its colorful jockey statues still stand on the stairs out front, its Remington paintings and sculptures are still arrayed, and its great bar room still hung with corporate toys. Scenes from All About Eve, Sweet Smell of Success, and Wall Street were filmed here.

Of course, many of the grandest restaurants are in historic American resorts, which once catered only to the very wealthy but which now have large family clientele, and numerous restaurants for every taste. The Breakers, which opened in 1896, in Palm Beach is as spectacular as any resort in the world, with its magnificent verandah and long colonnaded hallways, and its superbly ornate award-winning L’Escalier dining room, which has one of the greatest wine cellars anywhere.

Much smaller—just 23 rooms—is the Hotel Maison de Ville, opened in New Orleans’ French Quarter in 1905. Tennessee Williams wrote “Streetcar Named Desire” here, and James Audubon lived in one of the seven Audubon Cottages nearby. Its Bistro at Maison de Ville has a reputation for Chef Greg Picolo’s easy-going French fare with a Louisiana lagniappe. The New York Post called his BLT salad one of the best meals in New Orleans.

Few resorts can match the magnificence and period style of the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island, Mich., opened in1887, with its 660-foot verandah, suites named after First Ladies, pristinely maintained village, and fabulous main dining room where breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served along with its more rustic, Carleton Varney-decorated Woods restaurant, with beamed ceilings and stag’s horns like a Bavarian hunting lodge, and a menu of German specialties like wiener schnitzel, pfferesteak, and tafelspitz.

Great food can be found in the most out-of-the-way places, the smallest hole-in-the-wall, and the most spectacular new Vegas casino hotel. But when you add a large dose of American history to the dining experience, you will have a sense of what it was like when sheer wonder was part of the pleasure of dining out.


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10 travel traps to avoid

Consider this hypothetical situation: John thought he scored big when an advertisement for a $199 round-trip flight from New York to London popped up on his computer screen. When his credit card wasn't approved, the online booking agent suggested he wire the money. Unable to resist the bargain fare, John foolishly sent the cash. But he never got to see Big Ben. The cheap ticket was a scam.

There are lots of stories like this out there. BusySky.net, CheapClouds.com and CrazyTickets.net are three now-defunct Web sites responsible for these sorts of schemes. Other sites are still active.

Travel tricks and traps cost consumers more than $10 billion in 2008, according to the Better Business Bureau. And with an influx of travel discounts designed to woo recession-weary, deal-driven consumers, the number of travel traps stands to skyrocket in 2009.

In Depth: 10 Travel Traps To Avoid

"There are obviously a lot of great deals out there right now," says Anne Banas, executive editor of Smartertravel.com, a Boston-based Web site. "But if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is."

When booking tickets, beware of uncertified travel agents masquerading as pros. Always ask for credentials from a reputable program, such as the Travel Institute in Wellesley, Mass.

Other travel traps are less obvious than outright scams. While frequent-flier miles might eventually add up to a free trip abroad, airlines can tack on extra fees for taxes and baggage (which can range from $40 to $150 per ticket, depending on the carrier and destination). The best way to avoid these fees is to book as far ahead of time as possible. For example, along with a $25 ticket "processing" fee on every flight, United Airlines charges $75 for tickets bought seven to 20 days before the flight, and $100 for tickets purchased six or fewer days before departure.

On top of frequent-flier ticket charges, many airlines now charge for checked or overweight bags. Delta, for example, charges $90 extra for 50- to 70-pound bags and $175 for bags weighing 71 to 100 lbs.

Many U.S. airlines, including Southwest, United Airlines and Jet Blue, no longer accept cash for food, drinks or duty-free items on board. Travelers pay the same amount as they would if the airlines accepted cash, but those who don’t pack plastic may find themselves starving on a transcontinental flight.

Another new hidden airline fee: A service charge for speaking to a human being. American Airlines, for example, bills an additional $15 for any itinerary changes made over the phone.

In Depth: 10 Travel Traps To Avoid


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Cast off those fishing doubts

Be forewarned. They'll try to get you hooked, too.

"It can start innocently as making your first cast, tying your first fly or just an excuse to be out on the water on a beautiful summer's day. Then, it suddenly turns into a lifelong obsession and you're hooked."

So says John Fox (no relation), who chairs this year's Canadian Fly Fishing Forum to be held Saturday and Sunday at the Holiday Inn Burlington Hotel and Conference Centre.

Fly-fishing aficionados are out to lure you to the event sponsored by volunteers from the Izaak Walton Fly Fishing Club.

Forum publicist Mario Carr said this is a "great place to learn about fly fishing" from the experts while helping to support conservation measures.

This is "no longer just a sport but a lifestyle," Fox said, noting that getting started is not as easy as it looks.

"From tying your first fly to casting techniques, the forum has a beginner's program that has been tailor-made to teach people how to start in this fascinating hobby," he said.

The forum is not just for beginners as there are also more advanced programs as well.

It will feature speakers from the sport, including Ian Collin James, Bill Spicer, Colin McKeown and Phil Rowley.

They'll share their tips at 32 seminars designed for both beginners and the expert fly "fisherpersons" as many women have taken up the sport.

Topics include Fly Tying and Casting for Beginners; Tricks for Trout; Graphite and Bamboo Rod Building; Ontario Destinations; Fly Fishing for Gar; Tackle Basics; Designing the Fly You Need; and Knots and Leaders for Beginners.

Booths at the Exhibit Hall will feature International Showcase Fly Tyers, guides, equipment manufacturers, artists, lodges and more.

As well, next Saturday the club will hold its annual award and fundraising banquet starting at 6:30 p.m. with raffles and a silent auction to support conservation measures.

Guest speaker at the banquet will be Phil Rowley.

Money raised at the non-profit forum will aid fisheries conservation, with the club over 32 years donating more than $200,000 for habitat improvements, education, scholarships and other activities.

* * *

Here are some other upcoming opportunities to fall "hook, line and sinker" for fishing:

* The 28th Annual Orillia Perch Festival takes place at Tudhope Park (Highway 12 South and Atherley Road) from April 18 to May 9 on Lake Simcoe and Lake Couchiching. The family-fun derby has dozens of prizes for catching tagged fish in adult and children's categories in the live-release program. There's one tagged perch worth $5,000 and more than 60 that will return $500 each. Entry fees are $15; $6, children, $30, family package. For more, go to www.orillia.com/perchfestival or call 1-888-326-4424.

* The Tim Horton Trout Derby is at Springwater Pond (8079 Springwater Rd.) in Aylmer April 25 to May 3. The final day will include a children's derby. Rainbow trout are stocked each year to create a safe and easily accessible fishing opportunity. It costs $7.50 a person; no charge to children to age 14. www.catfishcreek.ca; (519) 773-9037.

* A Trout Derby runs from April 25 to May 3 at the Falls Reserve Conservation Area in Benmiller, near Goderich. "Bring your fishing tackle and tie into a tagged trout at our stock fish pond to claim your prize," say the organizers, the Huron Fish and Game Conservation Association of Clinton. Park entry fee applies. www.mvca.on.ca; 1-877-325-5722.

* Greensville Optimist Club's Fishing Derby at Christie Lake Conservation Area in Dundas is May 9, 6 a.m. to 11 a.m. Tagged fish are worth $50 each and anglers will be given an opportunity to win a Hamilton Conservation Authority family prize package. Registration is $5; $2, children to age 16 plus park admission. www.conservationhamilton.ca; (905) 628-3060.

Jim Fox can be reached at onetanktrips@hotmail.com

IF YOU GO

The Canadian Fly Fishing Forum is at the Holiday Inn Burlington, 3063 South Service Rd. (off the Queen Elizabeth Way east of Guelph Line). Tickets are $10 a day (no charge for children to age 16 with an adult) and $12 each for seminars. Pre-register for a two-day package at $75 that includes entry both days and all seminars.

Details: www.iwffc.com; 905-276-6345. The Holiday Inn offers special rates for show-goers: www.holiday-inn/burlingtoncan; (905) 639-4443.


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Orleans sizzles in summer

NEW ORLEANS -- Some of New Orleans' most popular events will be drawing visitors this spring, while the city is counting on a series of big conventions to keep tourism going this summer.

The New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival celebrates 40 years of music with performances April 24-26 and April 30-May 3. The French Quarter Festival is scheduled for April 17-19.

One new event taking place this year during the French Quarter festival is the Louisiana premiere of the opera Cabildo, written in 1932 by American composer Amy Beach. The April 18 performance will take place in the courtyard of the Cabildo, a historic government building that is now a museum. Admission will be free.

Tourism to New Orleans usually slows down in the summer, but the industry is expected to get a boost from seven major conventions booked for June and July.

"It's the biggest June and July we've ever had," said Steve Perry, president of the New Orleans Metropolitan Convention and Visitors Bureau.

Overall, convention business in the city is projected to be down 5-7 per cent this year, but Perry said that's actually good news compared with other cities.

"You take cities like Las Vegas or Orlando, they're looking at 12-30 per cent drops," he said.

Tourism is the No. 2 industry in Louisiana and the top industry in New Orleans, where it generates $5 billion US in visitor spending and $250 million to $300 million in tax revenues, according to the New Orleans Metropolitan Convention and Visitors Bureau.

Meanwhile Lt. Gov. Mitch Landrieu says crime in New Orleans -- or the perception of it -- is the No. 1 inhibitor in building tourism in the city, even though crime statistics for 2008 released by the New Orleans Police Department show a drop in all categories of crime except auto theft.

Murder was down almost 15 per cent. Total crime for the year, compared with 2007, dropped by 6.76 per cent.


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Booking air travel on a budget

Booking air travel on a budget

If you’re on a budget but you’d like to fly somewhere for your next vacation, there’s good news.

“Domestic fares are down 9 percent over a year ago and summer fares to Europe are down 19 percent,” said Mike Fridgen, product manger for Farecast.com.

“Bargains are out there,” agreed George Hobica, founder of AirfareWatchdog.com.

Examples: JFK to Paris, for under $500 roundtrip; Southwest’s $49 one-way tickets, and once-in-a-lifetime dream fares from Newark to Hawaii, in the mid-$400s, including taxes and fees.

These and many other deals are easy to find online. But there are some strategies you can use to make sure you get the lowest possible airfares. Here are some tips from the experts.

RESEARCH: “The most important thing is to do your homework,” said Michele Perry, spokeswoman for TripAdvisor.com, which just launched a new flight search aggregator.

To do your research right, you’ll need to compare fares from many different sources. “Too many people get cozy with their favorite search engine, blithely thinking that it’s the best,” said Hobica. If there were one best Web site, he added, “the rest would be out of business by now.”

“There’s not one Web site out there that has the cheapest fare,” agreed John E. DiScala, founder of JohnnyJet.com.

Sign up for newsletters and e-mail alerts from airlines that serve the routes you’re shopping for, and from sites like AirfareWatchdog, JohnnyJet, Farecast and others, including FareCompare, Kayak, Orbitz and Travelocity. Many airlines post their best fares only on their own Web sites, including Southwest, Allegiant Air, SAS, Aloha, Aer Lingus, Qantas, Alaska, Air New Zealand, and JetBlue, Hobica said.

Absurdly cheap fares, like a recent $14 flight on JetBlue from New York to San Francisco, don’t show up on booking sites because the sites can’t earn a commission on them. But that fare was mentioned in an alert from AirfareWatchdog, in JetBlue’s e-mail stream and on Twitter, Hobica said.

“They Twittered to death that $14 fare, but it was not on Kayak, Travelocity or Expedia,” Hobica said.

Airlines may also make deals with some sites and not others, so you may find fares differ for the same flight on different Web sites.

Another source for news about cheap fares, DiScala said, is the message boards of Webflyer.com.

And don’t overlook promotional codes. “If you sign up for an airline’s frequent flyer program or the airline newsletter, some airlines will generate a promotional code that you can use to get a discount when you book,” Hobica said. Often these codes are generated individually and can only be used once, so you won’t find them on Web sites.

Finally, as crazy as it sounds, check out package deals. Sometimes it’s cheaper to book a hotel and airfare package even if you don’t need lodging.

DiScala said he recently saw an airfare on United for $590, but on Travelocity, the same airfare was $480 including four nights in a hotel. That’s because hotels and tourism agencies sometimes subsidize airfares to bring people in.

NOW OR LATER: You’d need a crystal ball to know for sure whether fares will keep going down or if they’re stabilizing.

TripAdvisor’s Perry says “there’s anticipation that we’re fairly close to rock bottom,”

But Hobica says the news on the economy just keeps getting worse, and “the airlines are panicking again. Spring fares softened and they’re softening more. I expect to see summer fares soften, too.”

He added that “we’re seeing a lot more low fares with no advance purchase, or just three days’ advance, because the airlines realize that people are afraid to plan way ahead in this uncertain economy.”

If you book now and the fare goes down later, some airlines, including JetBlue, Southwest and Alaska, give a voucher good for future travel for the difference, said Hobica. Others will refund the difference but charge a fee of $150 or more.

WATCH THE HYPE: Sometimes a fare is so low it seems too good to be true. And it just might be.

First, a lot of really cheap deals are one-way, and the return fare may be more, depending on when you want to come back.

Second, look for those pesky little asterisks next to the price. On international flights, taxes and surcharges could add up to several hundred dollars.

“You’ve got to be careful about the hype around the deals,” Perry said. For example, she recently checked out one of Southwest’s famous $49 fares, “but when I priced it, it wasn’t the cheapest option with taxes and fees, plus it’s only one-way.”

TripAdvisor’s new Flights finder comes has a “Fees Estimator“ function that can also help you keep track of little things — charges for food, checking baggage, even headphones. “If you’re traveling with a family of four and everybody sends a bag, you could end up spending the price of a ticket on checking your luggage,” said Perry.

DATES MATTER: Look for deals early in the week: “A lot of airlines release their sale fares on Tuesday,” said Perry.

And be flexible about when you travel. “It’s usually cheapest to fly midweek,” she said.

You could also save big on summer fares if you fly early or late in the season, during the shoulder periods of May to mid-June or late August to September, in the weeks before and after peak summer travel, according to Fridgen of Farecast.com.

Newark to Honolulu, for example, is on sale in the mid-$400s through early June, but “once you get to June 15 on, it’s up it bumps up $200 a ticket,” Fridgen said.

Similarly, JFK to Paris, Fridgen found a sample fare departing June 24, returning July 2, for $567. Push the departure date forward just one day to June 25, and the price goes up to $822.

Hobica recommends using a flexible date search. “Orbitz and CheapTickets.com search over any 30-day period, and include all international routes; Travelocity and CheapAir.com search over a 330-day period, but don’t offer all international routes,” he said.

COMPARE ROUTES: “Connecting is usually cheaper than a nonstop if you’re willing to take a connecting flight,” said Perry.

But weigh the risks: If you’re switching planes, is there enough time to make your next flight? If there’s a long layover, are you going to blow a day of your vacation in the airport, spending money on food?

And check out alternate airports. Perry’s home airport is Logan in Boston, so she always looks at flights out of Providence, R.I., and Manchester, N.H., too. “Sometimes nearby airports will be cheaper,” she said.

AirfareWatchdog has a search option to see the cheapest fares to any destination from a wide range of cities at a glance — for example you can ask to see all the lowest fares to Paris from anywhere in the U.S.

In Europe, the cheapest destination airports include Dublin, Frankfurt, Shannon, and London Gatwick (not Heathrow), Hobica said. Even if you’re not headed to those cities, you might save money by flying in and connecting to a cheap European airline like Ryanair or EasyJet to get where you’re going.

For a quick directory of which budget airlines serve which markets, visit WhichBudget.com.

Just remember that it’s not always easy to transfer between two airports near one city. It could take hours and cost a bundle to travel between London’s Heathrow and Gatwick airports.


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You condo it in a breeze

The Dominican Republic is best known for its beaches and hot weather, but did you know that in the small northern town of Cofresi, there is a perfect breeze every afternoon?

And the most optimal spot to experience this breeze is sitting on the spacious balcony of your own private condo.

Which is exactly where I was every afternoon during my week-long stay in the beach community just outside of Puerto Plata.

Yes, I was just another Canadian on vacation in the Caribbean during the cruel winter months, but my trip was not your ordinary trip down south.

While up the road from me, other tourists sporting multi-coloured wristbands were sharing their designated beach areas, I was sitting on my private balcony in the Condos Club Paradise complex, overlooking the private pool and the ocean metres away.

Yes, this was the luxurious vacation most people envision when they think of the Caribbean.

My travel companions and I also had our own private maid/cook for the week who took us grocery shopping to pick whatever local foods we wanted her to cook for us throughout the vacation.

Every morning we woke up to a home-made Huevos Rancheros or breakfast burritos, or some other Dominican dish -- and every evening we came home to dinner waiting in the oven, everything from exotic local dishes to fried chicken with rice and beans.

We also had a concierge who would come by our unit to help us arrange day trips and tell us about his country and his family over afternoon drinks on the balcony.

And our own personal driver gave us a cellphone so we could call him to pick us up any time, day or night --and he even came out with us at night, at no extra cost, to act as our personal bodyguard/dance instructor.

But the best part of this arrangement was that it was cost-efficient.

A sparkling clean two-bedroom condo in Condos Club Paradise costs US$1,000 a week in high season, or $250 a person -- and US $700 a week in low season.

And that includes all the fixings, plus 24-hour security guards.

Despite all this, renting your own condo is still a fairly well-kept secret, says property manager Luis Francisco, as most tourists aren't comfortable venturing beyond the standard resort experience.

"When you're in a condo, you get the feeling like you need to travel on the island to get what you want," he says.

"It's not just beach, cocktails and palm trees as in a resort."

Once you experience the independence of staying in a condo though, you probably won't go back, says Chris Brawn, a Calgary-based software developer who has owned a condo in the complex for 18 months.

"You go beyond being a tourist when you're there," he says, adding it's not uncommon for condo owners to invite staff members' families over, and be invited into staff members' homes.

"You're not an ex-pat or a local, but you have a connection with the community and the people in the community."

For more info about Condos Club Paradise, e-mail paradisecondos@codetel.net.do or call 1-809-970-7576.


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Blooming wonderful

PHOENIX, Arizona -- There are many better places to spend time in Arizona than the Phoenix Sky Harbor airport. I had just arrived from Sedona by shuttle bus and was hoping to squeeze in a visit to the Desert Botanical Garden on the last day of my trip. But where was the taxi?

"It'll be there in five minutes," the dispatcher had assured me. An hour-and-a-half and three follow-up calls later, the cab finally arrived.

"And how are you today?" the driver asked with a cheerful smile, oblivious of my long wait. It was still an hour's drive to the garden and daylight was slipping away. Naturally, I wasn't in the best of moods.

But once I entered the Harriet K. Maxwell Desert Wildflower Trail, one of five themed trails in the garden, everything changed. Almost immediately I felt enveloped by a sense of tranquillity and calm.

Perhaps it was the sight of butterflies fluttering between the desert marigolds and the Angelita daisies, or the way the late afternoon sun cast an outline of glowing light on the fuzzy Teddybear cholla plant.

There were only a few other people around this late in the day. Most of the time it was just me, a few reptiles basking in the sun, rabbits hopping to and fro, and 50,000 desert plants to enjoy.

My timing couldn't have been better. During spring, the Arizona landscape blooms with wildflowers. Desert plants and cacti sprout new leaves, branches, arms and pads. Animals are active in the daytime gathering food, building homes and enjoying warmer days.

It was a surprise to see the prickly pear cactus, which typically begins to bloom in early May, already flowering in April. It's a sure sign of spring when spikes of fiery red, tubular blossoms flame at the end of the whip-like branches of the ocotillo shrub.

The show-stopper was the canopy of yellow blossoms on the Palo Verde trees. It made me think back to the time I'd spent at the Boulders Resort, which has a lovely desert garden.

In an effort to keep everything looking pristine, the grounds keepers, to my dismay, had raked up all of the tree's golden blossoms. But here, the flowers remained where they'd fallen, creating a spectacular yellow earthen carpet, too beautiful to ignore.

Even when not in bloom, Arizona's state tree, a native species of the Sonoran Desert, is worth admiring for its green-coloured trunk and branches. (Palo Verde is Spanish for green stick).

Using the free trail map, I tried to identify the various animals to be found here. No sign of the desert tortoise or the Gila woodpecker, but I did see a few cactus wrens and Gambel's quails, lots of black-tailed jackrabbits, and Anna's hummingbirds, as well two shy desert spiny lizards.

Mention the word "desert," and for many it conjures an image of a vast desolate region. But the number and variety of desert plants is actually quite astounding. The Desert Botanical Garden alone has more than 21,000 plants representing 139 plant families.

Nestled amid the buttes of Papago Park, it claims to be the only botanical garden in the world whose mission from its inception was to focus solely on desert plants. Founded by environmentalist Gertrude Divine Webster in 1939, the garden is a "Phoenix Point of Pride," and one of 36 botanical gardens in the United States accredited by the American Association of Museums.

Spread out over 58 hectares, the collection is especially strong in cactus, agaves, aloes and the flora of the Sonoran Desert. You'll also find 169 rare, threatened or endangered plant species from the world's deserts, especially the southwestern U.S. and northern Mexico.

If you can't make it in April, the months referred to as dry summer -- May and June -- are equally beautiful.

That's when the Saguaro cacti and queen of the night plants bloom with bats and moths drinking their nectar at night.

Watching the sunflowers bend with the fading light I realized it was time to leave.

"How was it?" asked my taxi driver, when I emerged at closing time.

"Great," I chirped, feeling thoroughly recharged.

It's amazing what the desert in springtime can do to lift your spirits.

WRITER@INTERLOG.COM

---

MORE INFORMATION

Desert Botanical Garden is at 1201 North Galvin Parkway. Admission is $15 (prices in U.S. dollars) for adults, $13.50 seniors (60 and up) $7.50 students, $5 children (age 3-12), and free for children under 3. See dbg.org. For travel info, check visitphoenix.com or scottsdalecvb.com.

You may want to time your visit to coincide with one of three events this spring.

- Spiked! presents Chihuly Nights. Every Thursday night until May 14, one of the garden's will feature a different glass sculpture by artist Dale Chihuly paired with a Chihuly-inspired cocktail. Price $25.

- The Spring Jazz in the Garden concert series continues Fridays nights through June 26. Price $20 for non-members.

- Butterfly exhibit: Butterflies will surround you as they flutter about the Marshall Butterfly Pavilion. Until May 31 you can view the scaly-winged friends up close at a "discovery station." Price $3 for non-members.


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Bookends to paradise

Largest Hawaiian island expands

HAWAII VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK, Hawaii - The largest and southernmost of the Hawaiian islands is shaking, spitting, and stretching as it slowly expands into the ocean.

You'll see and feel reminders of this almost everywhere during a trip to Hawaii Island, which most locals call the Big Island.

On the southern shore, streams of lava pour into the ocean where they form new land.

In some neighbourhoods, you'll see fields of black, cooled lava that have poured from Kilauea and Mauna Loa volcanoes in recent decades.

Sometimes the ground shakes as gravity pulls on the accumulated piles of lava. But don't let a fear of temblors prevent you from visiting: the vast majority of these earthquakes are far too weak to feel. Big earthquakes measuring magnitude 6 or more tend to only hit the state about once a decade.

Volcanoes have been central to stories told by Hawaiians for centuries.

Legend says the volcano goddess Pele dug fire pits as she travelled from island to island looking for a home with her brothers and sisters.

She finally settled at Kilauea's summit, where she lives at Halemaumau crater. It's said that Pele stomps on the floor of her fire pit when she wants to summon lava, hot rocks, steam and smoke.

You can see for yourself how Pele's lava is building the Big Island if you visit now. Kilauea volcano has been erupting simultaneously in two places for over a year, something that's unprecedented in 200 years of its recorded history.

The first of these eruptions has been spilling lava across the southern part of the Big Island since 1983, swallowing roads, homes and even entire towns.

Fresh flows from this eruption are currently slithering into the ocean near Kalapana, a formerly robust town that was mostly buried in lava in 1990.

Kilauea is also erupting from Halemaumau crater at the summit. That's where a large explosion opened a vent in March 2008, leading to the daily release of hundreds of tons of sulphur dioxide. Kilauea has spit small fragments of lava from Halemaumau but hasn't released any lava flows from here.

You can watch the summit eruption from a lookout point inside Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. It's humbling to see the crater's gas plume rise hundreds, and sometimes even thousands, of feet into the air from a vent larger than a football field.

From the visitor's centre inside the park, you can join ranger-guided hikes to see cinder cones and now-solidified lava lakes created by previous eruptions. Some of the walks meander through rainforests. Visitors can even venture into an old lava tube - a tunnel through which lava once streamed.

Getting near flowing lava can be dangerous, so it is vital that visitors follow guidelines set by the national park and Hawaii County.

Park ranger Mardie Lane said most visitors comply with the rules and have no problems. But in 1993, a lava-watcher was swept away when the unstable lava bench he stood on collapsed. Nine years ago, two visitors died after inhaling steam near a point where hot lava enters the ocean.

Hawaii County, which operates the ocean entry lava viewing point near Kalapana, outside the park, has designated a safe lava viewing area and cordoned off fragile lava benches.

Don't be disappointed if you are prohibited from standing next to the lava flow. Watching lava slide into the ocean is powerful even from a distance.

At the Hawaii County lava viewing point one recent evening, a few dozen visitors oohed and aahed as they watched a large steam plume rise into the air as scalding hot lava hit the chilly sea near Kalapana.

The plume glowed pink whenever lava slithered into the ocean from an above-ground lava tube prompting viewers to gasp and murmur.

County workers on duty at the viewing site have spent most of their lives next to lava.

Emily Hauanio saw her hometown of Kapaahu submerged in molten rock in the 1980s. She says Pele was cleansing the land so she wasn't upset.

"There was a lot more people coming in. Our famous swimming holes were getting polluted," said Hauanio, a Hawaiian whose family has lived in the area for generations. "It was time for her to come in and clean up the mess. That's the way I felt. And that's what she did."

Another county guide, Malia Mendes, whose grandmother's home was one of the only Kalapana structures spared by lava, was also accepting.

"It's nature's way. It was meant to be," said Mendes, who is also Hawaiian.

Hawaii's volcanoes are created by an underwater "hotspot" where magma from deep inside the earth has been poking through the earth's crust for at least 80 million years.

Few other places on Earth have a hotspot forming new land. One is the North Atlantic, where a small island called Surtsey grew off the southern coast of Iceland in the 1960s.

The Hawaiian Islands were formed as the Pacific plate - one of the earth's eight major tectonic plates - has slowly edged northwest over t he stationary hotspot.

The Big Island, the newest in this chain, is made up of five adjacent volcanoes, most of them still active.

Kilauea is the youngest of the five, having started erupting underwater 300,000 to 600,000 years ago. Between 50,000 to 100,000 years ago, Kilauea grew tall enough to emerge from the sea.

Most of the volcanoes on the other, older Hawaiian islands are now extinct. The exception is Haleakala on Maui which last erupted in the late 1700s.

-

If You Go...

HAWAII VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK: http://www.nps.gov/havo/. The site will give you the latest information about where the lava is flowing into the sea, and what the summit eruption is doing. It also has information on hiking and camping within the park. The park is located on Hawaii's Big Island.

GETTING THERE: Round-trip flights from Honolulu to Hilo, the nearest city, run frequently throughout the day, take about 45 minutes and can be booked for about US$100. There are also some direct flights to Kailua-Kona, a city on the west side of the Big Island, from Los Angeles, San Francisco and a few other mainland cities. The Big Island has limited public transportation so renting a car is your best option for getting around and exploring the island. Official Hawaii tourism site: http://www.gohawaii.com.

WHAT TO BRING: Flashlight, sunscreen, water, sweater, parka, hiking boots or sneakers. You'll need some warm clothes as Kilauea summit is 1,200 metres above sea level and temperatures there are much lower than the coast. Check for temperatures by looking up the weather for the town of Volcano, which is just a few kilometres from the park entrance and the Kilauea summit area.

FURTHER READING:

-"Hawaii Island Legends: Pikoi, Pele and Others," by Mary Kawena Pukui and Caroline Curtis. Kamehameha Schools Press.

-"Volcanoes of the National Parks in Hawaii," by Gordan A. Macdonald and Douglass H. Hubbard. Hawaii Natural History Association.


Bookends to paradise

Bookends to paradise

TAHITI, French Polynesia -- The itinerary reads like the script of a daydream: Two days at the laidback Intercontinental Tahiti Resort, island hop around French Polynesia aboard the luxe Silver Shadow, sail around the Hawaiian Islands, then rest up at the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua on Maui before flying home.

Silversea Cruise's literature for the 10-night sailing with pre-cruise and post-cruise hotel stays promises an extraordinary journey -- the ultimate romantic voyage. Or in my case, the ultimate "ro-tic" voyage -- romantic without the man, who is unable to accompany me due to previous commitments.

The lure of exotic explorations is too good to pass up despite the absence of my significant other. The solution: Take a gal pal. There may not be dancing under the stars but there are still plenty of thrilling experiences to make a heart skip a beat or two.

These include exploring the remote islands of Rangiroa and Nuka Hiva, sailing across the equator, touring Volcanoes National Park on Hawaii's Big Island, making a pilgrimage to Pearl Harbor memorials on Oahu and hitting the high elevations of Haleakala National Park on Maui.

* * *

French Polynesia has always been high on my "go to" list. Once difficult to reach, it still enjoys an "end of the earth" mystique.

The Intercontinental Tahiti does not disappoint. Recently renovated, it's typically Tahitian -- palm trees fringe the beach, the infinity pool has a sand bottom and swim-up bar, the open air Tiare restaurant provides poolside dining with ocean views. Our room has a balcony and looks across turqouise waters to Moorea. Every afternoon guests can watch staff feed colourful tropical fish at the Lagoonarium. Some days there are cultural presentations.

The new Deep Nature Spa by Algotherm (opened since our visit) features Polynesian Hei Poa and Tahitian Wave massage, plus seaweed wraps and marine body scrubs.

We dine with new friends at the resort's Lotus restaurant in an over-water palapa. The service is seamless. The open air setting is magical. The meal is memorable. I could stay forever but Silver Shadow awaits at the dock in Papeete.

* * *

If a ship that measures 186 metres long, weighs 25,635 metric tonnes and carries 382 passengers can be considered "small," then the Silver Shadow gets my nomination for the title "Tiny Perfect Cruise Ship."

The "tiny" designation is in comparison to the mega-liners plying the waters today. Some of these floating cities weigh 10 times more and carry 6,000 passengers and a couple of thousand crew. Passengers face rush-hour traffic jams at the buffet and theme-park- style lineups to disembark.

Still, there are some who revel in the carnival-like atmosphere of a really big ship. These leviathans do create a buzz when they sail into ports large enough to handle them.

But my tastes have always run more to low key sophistication and off the beaten path exploration so this "small" ship is more my style. For all it's "smallness," Silver Shadow is actually one of the larger vessels in Silversea's five-ship fleet, which includes a new expedition ship, Prince Albert II, that carries 132 passengers.

What truly makes her "perfect" is -- apart from kitschy things like boxing rings -- Silver Shadow has all the essentials of a large ship but on a human scale.

The spacious cabins -- most with verandas for watching the world go by -- are immaculately kept by attentive stewards who stock the minibar with your favourite libations -- everthing from Champagne to Scotch. (Alcohol and gratuities are covered on this all-inclusive line.)

There are three restaurants, a fitness centre, a spa, a library, a show lounge and a casino. All are less than five minutes' walk from anywhere on the ship.

The swimming pool and whirlpools are seldom crowded. And there's a level of old world service befitting a five-star luxury cruise line.

Silver Shadow is kept shipshape under the watchful eye of Captain Angelo A. Corsaro, who also updates passengers on sea conditions, the ship's progress and ports of call.

Cruise Director Helga Reiss plays the role of gracious hostess. Passengers seem to be naturally drawn to Reiss, an outgoing Newfoundlander with a melodious speaking voice.

A classically trained pianist, Reiss turned to singing after an injury forced her to give up the piano. An adherent of the "when one door shuts, another opens," philosophy, Reiss says she "ran away to sea" like her Norwegian grandfather before her, and found a new career as a singer and cruise director. She has performed with jazz greats Oscar Peterson and Charlie Biddle and performed for the Royal Family.

Since joining Silversea, her show, Big Time, has become a passenger favourite that allows her to showcase her considerable singing talents.

After calling at Rangiroa and Nuka Hiva, Silver Sea sails for Hawaii. There isn't much between French Polynesia and the Hawaiian Islands except endless vistas of Pacific Ocean. People new to cruising worry they might be bored on sea days. But more than a dozen cruises has taught me to cherish this special time suspended between here and there.

Sea days are for sleeping late, soaking up sunshine, having a massage, catnapping between chapters of a murder mystery, relaxing over afternoon tea, watching the sunset from your veranda and indulging in a beautiful dinner -- dessert and all.

One afternoon, there is some general silliness on the pool deck as Silver Shadow crosses the equator and passengers pay their due to Neptune. Each of us is awarded a handsome certificate and we enjoy an unearned sense of accomplishment.

After four days at sea, we dock in Hawaii. By now, the ship feels like home and disembarking feels like work, but then we imagine the discoveries that await on the Big Island, Oahu and Maui.

* * *

A few days later, saying goodbye to Silver Shadow proves to be hard but saying hello to the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua turns out to be a welcome transition from sea to land.

The lush grounds of the beautifully renovated resort resemble a botanical garden. Our room is spacious and tastefully decorated. The three-tier pool is calling.

There are activities for everyone -- everything from golf to the new children's program, Ambassadors of the Environment. Launched with Jean-Michel Cousteau, it includes rainforest hikes, reef snorkelling and underwater photo sessions all designed to teach about Hawaii's ecosystems.

As we bid farewell to Maui, it occurs to me that my vision of French Polynesia has always been of oceans and beaches while Hawaii sparked images of palm trees and fiery-hot volcanoes. Now, it is people and colours that come to mind: A collage of friendly locals greeting Silver Shadow in every port, a riot of blooms growing wild, a shifting palette of Pacific blues, inky black lava and the gold-red hues of Haleakala.

Silversea calls this a cruise. I call it heaven.

---

BOTTOM LINE

SOUTH PACIFIC

Silversea Cruises specializes in unique voyages to exotic destinations. In 2009, Silver Shadow will visit French Polynesia twice: First on a 16-day sailing from Los Angeles to Papeete, departing from L.A. on March 7, and later on a cruise from Papeete to Sydney, Australia, departing March 23 from Tahiti.

SILVER SAVINGS

Silversea Cruises has some very enticing offers this year. These include up to 50% off select cruises, free and specially priced airfare, and a $1,000 onboard credit that can be used for shore excursions, spa treatments, etc. In addition, all three offers are available on some cruises. See silversea.com/enticing for details.

MORE INFORMATION

For Silversea Cruises information, see silversea.com or your travel agent. For more on the Intercontinental Tahiti Resort, see intercontinental.com. For the Ritz Carlton Kapalua, see ritzcarlton.com.


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Beach setting for resort wedding

The wedding guests sat on chairs covered in white on the beach, facing the vivid blue-green waters of the Caribbean instead of an altar or stained-glass windows.

Some wore short-sleeved shirts and dress shorts. Nearby was a basket with a sign reading "shoes optional.'' It was pretty much full.

This was my first experience with a Mexican resort wedding. A kind soul at the Azul Beach Hotel, near Cancun, noticed I was dining alone and invited me to join their table.

They were from British Columbia and were there for a wedding. I ate with them the next evening, , and ended up meeting most of the wedding party, including the bride, who insisted I attend the nuptials.

That's how I came to be sitting, slathered in sunscreen, while Katharine, a Brit, and Liam, a Canadian, stood waiting to become man and wife.

It was a civil ceremony, conducted in Spanish with another woman translating everything into English.

It was pretty dry stuff, until Katherine and Liam exchanged vows that sounded like they'd written them themselves. It was those heartfelt expressions of love and hope that made the event intensely personal, and had some reaching for their tissues.

Hotel staff had cordoned off a stretch of beach before the ceremony. Swimsuit-clad resort guests watched from the sidelines. Some even snapped photos.

Louis Armstrong's version of It's a Wonderful World came over the sound system. A little mop-haired boy solemnly distributed flower petals for guests to toss when the time came.

Dark clouds moved in, a few drops fell, and plans for post- wedding drinks on the beach were quickly shifted under cover.

Weddings -- and such followups as anniversary celebrations and renewals of vows -- are a huge business at sun-destination resorts.

One advantage is obvious -- a combined wedding and honeymoon for the bride and groom, a holiday for the guests.

Katherine gave me other reasons for flying thousands of kilometres to say her "I do's'' in a foreign country.

It equalized, to some extent, the distance the guests had to travel. Katherine's mom and dad live in England and Liam's mother lives in France, but there was a large contingent from B.C.

And it relieved Katherine's elderly parents of having to host guests and show them around, something she said they would felt obliged to do had the wedding been held in Britain.

She and Liam picked the Azul Beach because it is small -- a 97-room all-inclusive -- and has a policy of holding only one wedding a day.

Couples interested in a sun- destination wedding can deal with a resort directly or use one of the major Canadian tour operators. They offer discounts for group bookings and some have resort partners that will do the wedding for nothing if a certain number of rooms is booked. A travel agent can steer you in the right direction.

Presentations

Novack's Talks With Travellers, 7 p.m., Monday, 211 King St., London. Yosemite & San Francisco, with James Cowie.

What's new in Britain

- A skeleton of a Tyrannosaurus Rex is among the exhibits at the new Great North Museum opening this spring in Newcastle upon Tyne. Local interest will be represented by an interactive model of Hadrian's Wall. The museum will be open daily and admission will be free. Visit www.greatnorthmuseum.org.

- A 65-metre-long sprayed concrete "cocoon'' housing millions of insect and plant specimens will be the architectural highlight of the Darwin Centre, which opens at the Natural History Museum in London, England, in September. The museum is open daily and admission is free. Visit www.nhm.ac.uk.


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Treasure Coast lives up to name

Celebs' favourite places on Earth

WASHINGTON - A new book from National Geographic asks celebrities to name their favourite places in the world, and the answers range from Nepal to Brooklyn.

Destinations mentioned in the book, called "My Favorite Place on Earth," include Jerusalem, mentioned by actress Natalie Portman, who was born there; Arud, in Bali, Indonesia, named by travel guru Arthur Frommer; Kauai, Hawaii, listed by Matt Groening, creator of "The Simpsons"; Runyon Canyon Park in Los Angeles, where dogs can walk off-leashed, named by dog whisperer Cesar Millan; Trinidad, the choice of basketball legend Kareem Abdul-Jabbar, whose grandparents emigrated from the island; and Monument Valley on the border of Arizona and Utah, chosen by George Lucas, "Star Wars" creator, who spent time there as a young man making a short abstract film.

Nepal was chosen by Lonely Planet founder Tony Wheeler, and Brooklyn was named by fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi. But not the Brooklyn Bridge or Coney Island or any of the other tourist attractions in the famous New York City borough. No, the Brooklyn mentioned by Mizrahi was a garage in the Midwood neighbourhood where he staged puppet shows. Mizrahi lived in a house there as a child and created a theatre using the rusted frame of a swing set. He carved his own marionettes from wood, painted them, made costumes with glitter and feathers, and even composed and tape-recorded his own music. "It was a precursor of the work I do now," he said.



Hog wild for St. Kitts
Mitsubishi’s Outlander GT Prototype readying for New York Launch

Treasure Coast lives up to name

SEBASTIAN INLET, Fla. -- From the boardwalk behind the McClarty Museum, I could see on the beach below, a man moving about with a metal detector.

I suspected he was not looking for a ring or a bracelet dropped by a vacationer. He was probably hoping to find a gold doubloon or maybe some silver pieces-of-eight dating from the early 18th century.

Such treasures are still being found on the beaches of this barrier island. But it's out to sea a little bit, just past the submerged reef, that the real treasure lies: Gold, silver and jewelry worth millions.

That's why this stretch of Florida's central Atlantic shore is known as The Treasure Coast. The McClarty Museum, in a state park here, fills in the history.

It tells how, in 1715, a Spanish fleet returning to Cadiz with the booty of Spain's South American colonies was riding the Gulf Stream north, prior to the Atlantic crossing, when it was overtaken by a hurricane and driven on to the reef.

Eleven of the 12 galleons floundered. Some survivors -- no one seems to know how many -- made it to shore while the 12th ship sailed back to Havana to raise teams of salvors.

The survivors set up camp on the very spot where the McClarty Museum now stands and waited for the salvors to arrive. Then, by hold-your-breath diving over the next few years, they recovered perhaps 50 per cent of the treasure.

Then the whole thing was forgotten. Forgotten until the 1950s when the late Kip Wagner came on the scene. As he tells it on a video in the museum, he was walking on the beach when he found some "flat stones." He rubbed one and found it was a gold piece.

He formed a salvage company and soon his divers were bringing up gold ingots, pieces-of-eight, emeralds, jewelry, rare porcelain, even a treasure chest. On one occasion, he says, they found 3,500 gold coins in just a few days.

Wagner died in 1972 and his salvage efforts wound down. But, the video tells us, "untold millions remain,'' for some of the 11 wrecks haven't yet been found.

Exhibits in the museum include some items of the treasure and more mundane artifacts such as a cannon, musket balls, armour, a rosary, swords and plates, and bowls.

There's more treasure in the Mel Fisher Museum, in the town of Sebastian, on the mainland nearby. Fisher, who died in 1998, was Florida's -- and maybe the world's -- most famous treasure hunter, the man who found the wreck of the fabulously rich treasure ship Nuestra Senora de Atocha off Key West in 1985. He carried on the search here for some years after Wagner's death.

In the museum shop you can buy original Spanish "reales," pieces-of-eight and facsimiles of jewelry taken from the wrecks.

For more information, visit the websites atocha1622.com/mcclarty.htm and melfisher.com. Tourist information on Florida is available at visitflorida.com.


Hog wild for St. Kitts

Under the Tuscan sun

CHIANTI, Italy -- On a cold winter day in 2007, my sister asked me if I'd like to join her on a trip to Tuscany. I didn't have to think long to give her my answer -- yes!

Now, 18 months later, we're on our way to Muricciaglia, our villa in Tuscany. After a couple of days in Umbria, we have decided to take the country roads, as opposed to the superstrada. This proves to be a slower route, but very rewarding. We get a feel for life in small-town Italy as we meander through villages and pass farmland with corn and sunflower fields on either side of the narrow roadway.

As we leave Umbria and enter Tuscany, we pass the hilled town of Cortona, which is famous from the movie Under The Tuscan Sun. That is in fact what got us interested in coming to Italy, but our villa beckons so we must remember Cortona as we saw it on film.

OLIVE GROVES

The countryside is subtly changing, with grapevines and olive groves now appearing and the road is beginning to twist and turn as we go upward into the hills. We believe we have found the zoom-zoom road from a certain car commercial and at this point I am glad I'm in the backseat enjoying the view and not behind the wheel. Fancy European cars and motorcycles whiz by us as we travel through ancient towns. We have arrived in Tuscany and just have to locate our villa.

The villa we have booked for a week's stay came highly recommended by our travel agent. Muricciaglia is ideally located just off the road from Castellina to Radda in Il Chianti. Our hosts, Mimma and Franco Ferrando, have provided excellent directions and we find it easily. As we turn off the highway and onto the gravel road to the villa, my sister and I look at each other and smile -- we're finally here!

Mimma welcome us with a glass of wine and then gives us a tour. Muricciaglia sits on 65 hectares of woodland, olive groves and a small vineyard. There have been dwellings on this property for more than 500 years. There are two villas for rent -- we are staying in the Fienile, an old hay barn. It has two bedrooms, two modern bathrooms, a loft with twin beds, a living room, a modern kitchen and laundry facilities.

There is a beautiful infinity pool all guests share. The temps this week are a bit cool and the pool is not heated, so we'll have to settle for sitting by the pool and not in the pool. Mimma is a chef that travels the world teaching the fine art of Italian cooking and offers classes to her guests. We did not book a class this time and promise ourselves to do so on our next visit.

The location of our villa is perfect for day trips to explore Tuscan towns. On our first full day in Tuscany we make the short trip to Panzano for Sunday market day.

There also happens to be a wine festival taking place, so the town is bustling. We find a parking spot on the edge of the narrow roadway and walk the short distance into town. The market place has vendors selling goods ranging from leather purses to clothing to cheese. We stop at a butcher shop and purchase a pork loin for dinner. Upon leaving Panzano we find a quaint roadside restaurant to have lunch at. We dine outdoors, enjoying fresh homemade pasta and washing it down with wine. Our view is that of a painting -- hills covered in vineyards with the dark purple grapes hanging heavy on the vines and large stone villas surrounded by tall cypresses.

The next day we decide to journey the 20 km to Siena. The medieval historic centre rises high above the rest of the city. After we park our car we travel up five escalators to take us through the ancient walls. Following the narrow streets lined with shops we eventually find ourselves at the famous Piazza del Campo. The famous sloped square is surrounded by restaurants and vendors selling postcards and souvenirs.

Twice a year, horse races take place in the piazza. Since the middle ages, representatives of the town districts have competed in the race around il Campo. Spectators fill the bowl of the piazza while the horses and riders in colourful costumes run around the perimeter three times trying to become the winner of the prestigious Palio di Siena. These events take place in July and August. I can picture the horses tearing around the piazza with the spectators cheering for their favourite.

BREATHTAKING

We tour the famous gothic cathedral, which was built between 1196 and 1215. The workmanship is unbelievable. The inlaid marble floor and marble pillars are breathtaking. Before lunch we manage to find some time to shop and purchase some leather purses and wallets. The selection is great and the prices seem quite reasonable. We dine outdoors at a small restaurant in the Piazza del Campo. We again enjoy fresh pasta and a bottle of local wine and take in the sights and sounds of the piazza.

Another day trip takes us to San Gimignano, a walled medieval town with 14 towers. At one time there were 72 of these towers, which are believed to symbolize the wealth and power of the medieval families that resided here. This is another wonderful town to explore the winding, narrow streets and go in and out of the numerous shops. The small stores offer a great selection of linens, leather goods, ceramics, cheeses and wine. We spend a few hours here sightseeing, shopping and having a delicious lunch at Hotel Bel Soggiorno, which offers a great view of the surrounding countryside.

Upon leaving San Gimignano we journey the short distance to Monteriggioni. You can see this impressive walled town in the distance long before you arrive. It was built in the 1200s and has not changed much over time. There is a church, a couple of restaurants, small shops and homes all within the stone walls. It is a marvel to see how dwellings have survived the wars and elements over time.

On our last full day in Tuscany we venture out to discover Volpaia, a tiny hamlet up in the hills behind Radda. After thinking we've taken the wrong turn we end up on the correct route -- yet another narrow, winding road to the village. Volpaia is like most towns in Tuscany, you will see your destination long before you reach it. Most towns are perched high on hills. This was done in order to protect them from rival neighbouring towns centuries ago.

Volpaia proves to be a most interesting stop. We enjoy a cappuccino in the small town square before venturing out to walk the narrow cobblestone streets. We pick up some locally made wine and vinegars before stopping for lunch at one of the two restaurants. Our view is again spectacular and the food equally good.

Most restaurants offer indoor and outdoor dining and we choose outdoor as often as we can. The food in Tuscany is everything I thought it would be. Every restaurant offers a wide selection of fresh pasta plus different meats. Pork, wild boar and rabbit appear quite often on the menus, roasted or in stews. The wine menus are extensive, highlighting the Classico Chianti, for which the region is famous. We take every opportunity to sample the local favourites either on our plates or in our glasses.

The day is still young when we depart Volpaia so we decide to try and find a castle we were told we should not miss. We head in the direction of Gaiole and a few kilometres further down the road we find ourselves at the Castello di Brolio in Chianti.

Built in 1000 A.D. the castle has a long, colourful history. The Ricasoli family have owned it since 1141 and continue to live in a portion of the enormous fortress. Nearby, the family owns a winery that produces the famous Brolio wine.

We walk around the outside of the 50-foot-high walls before entering the gate and touring inside, where a chapel houses generations of tombs of the Ricasoli family. We continue along the south terrace, where on a clear day you can see Siena in the distance. Below is a view of the gardens, olive groves and vineyards. The surrounding hills are covered in cypresses and conifers. You can almost picture the scene centuries ago as rival armies would assault the castle attempting to gain possession. This happened many times until the mid 1500s.

Our week-long stay in Tuscany is over much too soon, even though we still have two weeks in Italy, visiting Florence and then Rome. I think back on the friendly people we've met, delicious foods we ate and the unbelievable sights we saw and start thinking of a return trip to Tuscany.

Hog wild for St. Kitts

ST. KITTS -- An oversized pig lives on a beach here, playful monkeys frolic everywhere and tourists hide out in Elephant's Ears. Did we mention the goat who was locked up for drunkenness? Welcome to St. Kitts!

A lot of local people told me Cockleshell Bay was their favourite beach, so naturally I went to have a look. It was on this golden stretch of sand that I first encountered Wilbur. He was sleeping in the shade of a palm tree -- snoring.

Not many beaches have a resident pig, let alone one that weighs 317 kilos. Wilbur is somewhat of an island mascot, adored by tourists and locals alike. I watched as people took turns petting the hog and even hugging him while posing for photos, none of which seemed to disturb the sleeping Wilbur.

A few hours later, in the heat of the midday sun, the friendly hog got up and waded into the water up to his knees. A small crowd gathered on the beach to watch. One man began pouring water on Wilbur's back to cool him off. The pig seemed to enjoy that.

"That's got to be the biggest pig in the world," an astonished tourist remarked. Wilbur gets lots of attention, and it would seem, lots of food -- mostly leftover scraps from the Reggae Beach Bar and Grill, owned by Gary Pereira, Wilbur's keeper.

"He's a very smart pig," insisted Pereira praising his beloved pet, which he got from a friend seven years ago.

More recently, the restaurateur has begun caring for a baby goat named Mocha and an 8-month-old green -- or Vervet -- monkey called Oliver, both of which were abandoned by their mothers.

"It's like an orphanage of animals here," mused Pereira.

Oliver sometimes wanders around freely on the beach and other times he's in a big cage for his own protection (the Vervets are very territorial).

When I returned a few days later, Wilbur was napping (again), Oliver the monkey was playing on the beach with Lion Paw the dog, and Mocha the goat was, oddly, in Oliver's cage.

"She got into somebody's rum punch," explained Heidi Fagerberg, who takes care of the animals when she's not giving sailing lessons. "We found her swerving and staggering, so we put her in the cage until she sobers up."

They say there are twice as many monkeys on the island as people. Most of them are wild. But quite a few, like Oliver and another one I encountered at the sugar mill ruins of Wingfield Estate, are pets.

This Vervet, named Bruce, seemed to take an interest in grooming any visitors it got close to. If you visit, don't be surprised if you walk away with a new hairdo.

Two things you shouldn't miss while on the island are a trip on the St. Kitts Scenic Train (where you'll see old sugar mills, villages and monkeys) and a visit to Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It had been such a silly week, with Wilbur, the monkeys and all, that when I saw one of those wooden soldier cut-outs at the hilltop fort, I poked my head through it just like the kids.

I wasn't the only one "hamming" it up though. On a Sugar Plantation Heritage Tour with Greg's Safari, one of our stops was a hilltop viewpoint where our knowledgeable guide Greg Pereira, Gary's brother, pointed out some giant leaves called Elephant's Ears. One woman got the idea to climb in behind these green giants while her spouse snapped her photo. Soon, everyone else on the tour was lining up to do the same. If Wilbur and Oliver could talk I'm sure they'd approve.

For more information on St. Kitts, visit the St. Kitts Tourism Authority at stkittstourism.kn. Greg's Safaris offers three tours: Mount Liamuiga Volcano Hike, Sugar Plantation Heritage Tour, and The Valley of Giants Rainforest Hike. Check gregsafaris.com. For more on Reggae Beach Bar and Grill, visit reggaebeachbar.com.

WRITER@INTERLOG.COM


Under the Tuscan sun

Treasure Coast lives up to name

SEBASTIAN INLET, Fla. -- From the boardwalk behind the McClarty Museum, I could see on the beach below, a man moving about with a metal detector.

I suspected he was not looking for a ring or a bracelet dropped by a vacationer. He was probably hoping to find a gold doubloon or maybe some silver pieces-of-eight dating from the early 18th century.

Such treasures are still being found on the beaches of this barrier island. But it's out to sea a little bit, just past the submerged reef, that the real treasure lies: Gold, silver and jewelry worth millions.

That's why this stretch of Florida's central Atlantic shore is known as The Treasure Coast. The McClarty Museum, in a state park here, fills in the history.

It tells how, in 1715, a Spanish fleet returning to Cadiz with the booty of Spain's South American colonies was riding the Gulf Stream north, prior to the Atlantic crossing, when it was overtaken by a hurricane and driven on to the reef.

Eleven of the 12 galleons floundered. Some survivors -- no one seems to know how many -- made it to shore while the 12th ship sailed back to Havana to raise teams of salvors.

The survivors set up camp on the very spot where the McClarty Museum now stands and waited for the salvors to arrive. Then, by hold-your-breath diving over the next few years, they recovered perhaps 50 per cent of the treasure.

Then the whole thing was forgotten. Forgotten until the 1950s when the late Kip Wagner came on the scene. As he tells it on a video in the museum, he was walking on the beach when he found some "flat stones." He rubbed one and found it was a gold piece.

He formed a salvage company and soon his divers were bringing up gold ingots, pieces-of-eight, emeralds, jewelry, rare porcelain, even a treasure chest. On one occasion, he says, they found 3,500 gold coins in just a few days.

Wagner died in 1972 and his salvage efforts wound down. But, the video tells us, "untold millions remain,'' for some of the 11 wrecks haven't yet been found.

Exhibits in the museum include some items of the treasure and more mundane artifacts such as a cannon, musket balls, armour, a rosary, swords and plates, and bowls.

There's more treasure in the Mel Fisher Museum, in the town of Sebastian, on the mainland nearby. Fisher, who died in 1998, was Florida's -- and maybe the world's -- most famous treasure hunter, the man who found the wreck of the fabulously rich treasure ship Nuestra Senora de Atocha off Key West in 1985. He carried on the search here for some years after Wagner's death.

In the museum shop you can buy original Spanish "reales," pieces-of-eight and facsimiles of jewelry taken from the wrecks.

For more information, visit the websites atocha1622.com/mcclarty.htm and melfisher.com. Tourist information on Florida is available at visitflorida.com.


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Central Vietnam a tranquil treat

As we continue our whirlwind two-week tour of Vietnam, we bid a thankful farewell to the noise, chaos and pollution of Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) as we fly to Danang in the Central part of country.

The ninety-minute flight transported us to a region vastly different from the south. Central Vietnam is much quieter, cleaner and verges on the tranquil.

Our delightful guide Tam met us at the airport and whisked us to a quaint hole-in-the-wall restaurant for a bowl of Pho (pronounced fir) soup before we embark on a two-hour, 30 km bike ride from Danang to the ancient city of Hoi An.

En route we pass lush rice fields, stunning beaches, mountains made of marble and delightfully friendly locals.

As time was restricted, we had to miss spending time on famed China Beach.

However, if even half the high-end resorts planned see completion, Danang and it's China Beach are destined to become Vietnam's Waikiki.

Hoi An lies on the banks of the Thu Bon River. Occupied by early western traders, Hoi An is a well-preserved example of a Southeast Asian trading port dating from the 15th to the 19th century and was recently declared as a world heritage site by UNESCO.

Hoi An has a distinct Chinese atmosphere with low, tile-roofed houses and narrow streets; the original structure of some of these streets still remains almost intact.

All the houses were made of rare wood, decorated with lacquered boards and panels engraved with Chinese characters. Pillars were also carved with ornamental designs.

Must-see sites include relics of the Sa Huynh and Cham cultures while a visit to the local market is pure fun.

Tailor made garments can be whipped up in a matter of hours and one of the best 'factories' in town is Yali. Prices are very reasonable and the quality is acceptable.

We had the good fortune of staying at The Nam Hai-one of the world's most exclusive and exquisite resorts. Spectacular grounds, unparalleled accommodations and superb dining do not come cheap so The Nam Hai is not for the budget traveler.

November is supposedly the tail-end of the rainy season. Mother Nature was definetly having a spell as we ended up experiencing some of the heaviest rains the region had seen for years.

However, for we cold-blooded Calgarians, the rain proved a respite from searing heat and debilitating humidity.

Our next leg of the trip took us 108 km north to Hue (pronounced whey).

Hue, located on the northern bank of the Perfume River,is a quiet, relaxing city, big enough to be interesting but small enough to leisurely stroll around.

Steeped in history, the imperial city of Hue served as the country's political capital under the rule of the Nguyen Dynasty from 1802-1945. It was then that Bao Dai, the last emperor, abdicated to the government of Ho Chi Minh.

The city was severely damaged in the 1968 Tet Offensive. House to house fighting lasted for weeks but blessedly, many of the city's historic sites still stand.

Must-sees while here include: the old Imperial complex; the Citadel and the Forbidden Purple City; 300 year-old pagodas; and the many tombs of the emperors which lie a few kms. south of the city. Each tomb is a walled compound containing temples, palaces, and lakes. Top of the list is surely the magnificent Khai Dinh tomb.

Accommodations in Hue are varied. If you can, stay at La Residence Hotel and Spa located on the banks of the Perfume River at 5 Le Loi Street.

Listed in 2007 Conde Nast Traveler's Hot List, La Residence a has a storied history-and a beautiful Art Deco vibe.

Once the private mansion of the colonial French Resident Superieure, 5 Le Loi Street has played host to all manner of guests from the Viet Cong to the military governor of Danang and his family.

For many years after the war ended in 1975, La Residence languished on it's heels as a three-star hotel.

The facility was renovated and re-opened in 2005.

The next leg of our Vietnam adventure takes us north Halong Bay.

Stay tuned.

TRIPS TIPS

- Tour Operators: Viet Orient Tours has hosted many Calgarians. Owner Nguyen Viet can customize any type of tour you wish from biking to hiking, shopping to sightseeing. Visit www.vietorienttours.com

- Getting there: Daily flights from Vancouver to Hong Kong. Overnight in Hong Kong. Vietnam Airlines flies directly to Danang.

- Visa: You must have a visa to get into Vietnam. You're advised to have the visa before arrival-however, you can purchase your visa at Saigon airport but this can be a challenge.

- Vaccinations: There are no requirements at present but ensure you take a general antibiotic with you just in case. Vaccinations against tuberculosis and hepatitis B are sometimes advised.

- Safety:Travel in Vietnam is generally safe and violent crime is uncommon.

- Weather: July, August and September are the rainy months. Many areas experience severe flooding during this time. December, January and February are historically the driest months.

- Currency: the Dong is Vietnam's official currency. ATM's are common throughout Vietnam.


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10 ways to get hotel upgrades

When 24/7 Real Media chairman and founder David J. Moore arrived at Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas, it could have been one of the worst travel experiences of his life. His flight had been repeatedly delayed, it was 4 a.m. and he had to wake up early the next morning for a conference. Instead, he scored an upgrade to the best room in the hotel: the top executive suite, replete with mirrored ceilings and an enormous hot tub.

That was 15 years ago. These days, with fewer reservations on the books and less money changing hands, hotel upgrades are harder than ever to come by. But that doesn’t mean they’re impossible. Many seasoned travelers attribute their most impressive upgrades to a combination of luck and overbooking, but our insider, a front desk manager at a luxury Atlanta hotel, says there are a few measures you can take to put yourself in a more favorable position to be upgraded.

See our slideshow on Getting Hotel Upgrades.

“Staying only one night, coming in late and traveling when there’s a conference in town make it easier to give someone an upgrade,” he says. That’s because short stays and late arrivals free up the staff to move people around, and traveling during major events makes it more likely all of the smaller rooms will be occupied, allowing the management to offer the top suites as an alternative to relocating guests to another hotel. And while our insider concedes that the best upgrades are partially a function of luck, he says the front desk staff has more control than most patrons realize.

“We want to keep people happy,” he says. “We could be under-booked, and if someone comes up and is really pleasant, but obviously exhausted, I’ll give him a nicer view, or a bigger bed.”  

Even if you’re well rested, just starting a brief conversation with the staff about events you have planned on your vacation can confer benefits. Guests who are celebrating birthdays or anniversaries, or who just need extra room to work can often procure an upgrade by mentioning their situation to the front desk managers, says former Opus hotel manager Daniel Edward Craig.

Playing nice with the management is important for another reason as well: It will make them more likely to remember you, and hotels are big on loyalty. Quintin Payton, a New York City-based freelance stylist, has experienced the benefits of customer loyalty first-hand at the Savoy Hotel in Miami, where he regularly stays for both business and pleasure. “I’ve stayed there so often, even the maid recognizes me,” he says. “Now, when I go, they always give me the same room, no matter what I booked; I never have to pay for parking, which is supposed to be $30 a day; and they never charge me for the mini-bar.”  

So, if you’ve booked your favorite hotel during the 31,000-strong Society for Neuroscience conference, and have arrived haggard looking in the middle of the night, but no upgrades seem forthcoming? “Just ask,” says our informant. “If you’re nice and you act important, we’ll probably give you something.”

See our slideshow on Getting Hotel Upgrades.



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Europe on a shoestring

It's coined the students' rite of passage. I'm sure you're all familiar with the scenario -- a recent post-secondary graduate, with degree or diploma in hand and an itching to do just about anything to avoid the dreaded 9-5, bids farewell to familiar surroundings and hops a plane to the beginner backpacker's mecca: Europe.

It's an absolute cliche, but also an absolute must, so that's exactly what I did -- solo for a month.

With a pack stuffed with clothes and camera in hand, I hit my first destination -- Amsterdam -- and never looked back.

Starting my travels in a liberal city with a fairly fluent English speaking population served as a stepping-stone, a way to ease into the myriad languages and culture shocks I would no doubt encounter.

After settling into my hostel, I took to the streets to digest the vibrant Dutch culture awash with street performers, international cuisine, celebrated museums and an abundance of bicycles.

Before long, I overcame my lingering reservations about journeying solo and began to take pleasure in the sights and conversations with locals and fellow travellers. This changing cast of characters included two girls from Edmonton I spent the day with after meeting them in line at Anne Frank House, my Austrian roommates who spoke broken English, but loved Canada for its flag, and Erma, a local I met on a patio with whom I spent two hours talking about everything from Dutch healthcare to holiday traditions, while she blithely filled a page with names of restaurants I should consider.

I soaked up the sun in Rembrandt Square, unabashedly explored the red light district, went wild with the locals at the Heineken Music Hall, and got lost in Vondel Park.

As the days ran on and my appetite for all things grew, so did my debt. Not even a week into a month-long trip and I was overwrought with anxiety and afraid I would run out of money.

So I hopped a flight to Prague, Czech Republic, determined to be a true backpacker by adopting a frugal lifestyle. I didn't exactly have a choice in the matter.

Once I'd found my hostel, I tossed my bags -- which alarmingly had already reached full capacity from unwise spending -- in my room and immediately befriended a girl from Chicago in the hostel's common area.

Being on a budget, we raided the nearby supermarket and made use of the hostel kitchen before navigating the confusing cobblestone streets in search of an outdoor market. Our excursion led us to many of the city's famed attractions including Powder Tower, a gateway to the Old Town and Charles Bridge; Wenceslas Square, Prague's central boulevard; and Charles University, the oldest in Central Europe, founded in 1348.

Determined to see the rest of the city after we parted, but wary of the winding, maze-like streets, several days later I joined a free walking tour, which led our group to the Old Town, Lesser Quarter and Prague Castle. Our guide gave a remarkably detailed history of the city and sights, which included the Czech parliament, Franz Kafka's house, and John Lennon's wall, an expanse of wall formerly covered in anti-communist graffiti in the '80s, now filled with positive messages, artwork and poems.

With two cities mastered and my confidence boosted, I took to the skies with Ibiza in sight.

Going directly from an historical, inland city to an island paradise is an exceptional change, but a welcome one. I stumbled into a problem almost immediately, though. The tiny island off the eastern coast of Spain is teeming with couples, families and friends on vacation -- it's not exactly a hot spot for lone travellers.

My family friendly hotel was hardly the best place to strike up conversations and the public transit left something to be desired, so I resigned myself to wandering the strip and enjoying a sun-soaked getaway. A vacation from my vacation if you will.

Fate, however, is a funny thing. Soon after I sat down to dinner the first night, a young woman walked in, also looking for a table. Also on vacation. Also alone. She was perhaps the only other single traveller on the island, and we had somehow managed to cross paths.

In an instant, my week of lying on the beach turned into a week of exploring. As luck would have it, she had rented a car. Together we discovered Ibiza's tiny towns, lounged on a handful of the island's beautiful beaches, and sauntered through crowded, tourist-ridden San Antonio. We went kayaking in the Mediterranean, caught the world renowned sunset at Cala Moli beach, and took in the DJs at night at some of the world's most famous -- and biggest -- clubs.

I had made a lifelong friend in an instant and agreed to meet her in Paris, where she was working, before I flew home.

My sights were set next on Barcelona, a stone's throw from Ibiza. I arrived at the hostel after a bit of confusion on the subway -- nothing a friendly Catalan couldn't help with -- and was immediately invited by my new roommates, all from New Zealand, to go on a bike tour of the city.

The four-hour ride took us through Barcelona's most central park -- Parc de la Ciutadella -- showed us modernist architect Antoni Gaudi's amazing work throughout the city -- including his breathtaking masterpiece Sagrada Familia -- and explained the significance of Barcelona's only bullfighting arena (the only one in Spain where people come to protest the sport).

I spent the rest of the visit traversing the city on foot with friends from the hostel and watching the entertainment erupt each evening along Las Ramblas, one of Barcelona's major boulevards.

Originally, the trip was to end in Lisbon, Portugal, but my plans took a turn. I cancelled my hostel in Portugal and booked a flight to Paris, where I met my new friend from Ibiza. She graciously shared her apartment with me for the week, showed me all over the city, and provided unforgettable adventures and conversation.

I flew home with a sense of accomplishment -- and a lot more money than I had expected. The trip cost a meager $3,500, including the gifts I brought home.

My return flight to Europe ran about $1,400 when all was said and done, and accommodations totalled $1,000, keeping in mind the five-night stay at a hotel in Ibiza accounted for about half of that. The average price of a hostel can run anywhere from $20 per night and up, depending on its location, the time of year, the type of accommodation requested and availability.

The remaining money was spent on additional transporation, food and drink, entertainment and mementos from each city.

Embarking on this trip with nothing but a backpack, a smile, and an open mind, I'd say I fared pretty well.

---

TRIP TIPS

- Don't book your entire trip in advance. Play it by ear while travelling as plans can, do, and will change.

- Do some research before leaving to see if any events or festivals are going on during your stay.

- Keep in mind currency conversions when making purchases.

- Don't overpack! Remember, you have to carry your bags everywhere you go.

- Look for hostels that have common areas, kitchens, and whenever possible, laundry facilities. Common areas are a great place to meet new people, hostel kitchens help save you money by giving the option of cooking your own food, and on-site laundry facilities are a bonus when living out of a backpack.

- Rent a bicycle. They're cheap and in most places can be picked up and dropped off at various bike hubs around the city. Some hostels offer bike rentals as well.

- Keep an eye out for brochures in and around your hostel advertising free walking tours. A decent tip to your guide at the end ensures the sightseeing programs stay up and running for others to experience.

- Avoid taxis whenever possible -- they're a cash guzzler -- and rely on public transit, biking or walking to get around.

- Be open to just about everything on your travels -- if you don't try, you'll never know!


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