Old soldiers in Gettysburg

Days before Halloween on a darkened street Dwight Stoutzenberger aimed his digital camera at a wall not far from where a guide was telling ghost stories to a group of tourists.

Gettysburg, a historic Civil War town, is famous for ghosts and reportedly haunted sites where uniformed soldiers mysteriously walk through closed doors, or ornaments shift positions on a mantelpiece.

As Stoutzenberger scrolled through his photos he found several exposures showing a bright light amid a fuzzy white oval shape apparently hovering near the wall down the street.

Tour guide Ann Griffith, who has been doing ghost tours in Gettysburg for 16 years, speculated that it could be an orb -- a point of light that she says is commonly seen around haunted sites.

Stoutzenberger, 34, from Elizabethtown in central Pennsylvania, was happy to have found evidence of the spirit world.

"I'm a believer," he said. "I go on these tours so that maybe I can catch an orb."

The tour was run by Ghosts of Gettysburg, one of about a dozen companies offering such tours of the southern Pennsylvania town. Tourists, some who believe in ghosts, come from as far away as northern Idaho and Minnesota.

Gettysburg is reputed to be haunted by the ghosts of thousands of soldiers who died in the Battle of Gettysburg in 1863, which turned the American Civil War in favor of Unionist forces.

Griffith said the battle, in which some 7,000 soldiers were killed, explains why modern Gettysburg is populated with the ghosts of those who died horribly, or whose bodies were hurriedly buried in shallow graves during the summer heat.

"A lot of them don't know they are dead," she explained. "A lot of them still think they are fighting the biggest battle of their life."

But for history buff Mark Appellman, 46, a computer analyst from Chicago, ghost tours weren't a priority during his visit.

"I'm a Civil War nut," he said.

Outside a local elementary school that had been used as a hospital during the Battle of Gettysburg Griffith provided gruesome details.

"The surgeons would perform amputations without anesthetic, and dispose of the limbs in a wheelbarrow," she said, adding that the arms and legs were probably buried under what is now a parking lot outside the school, possibly explaining why orbs are frequently seen there.

The only real evidence of Gettysburg's storied past shown to the tour group was historical, rather than spiritual. About 100 bullet holes marked the spot in the side of the Farnsworth House, where Confederate marksmen shot at Union soldiers who returned fire.

Griffith said the house has at times been visited by the wandering spirit of a soldier whose presence prompted a psychic to try to banish him.

"Your job as a soldier is done," the psychic told the soldier, according to Griffith. "It's time to go - you are dead."

Ghosts and goblins out for Halloween

The bird battle of Alberta

Alberta is a place of many conflicts and confrontations.

Geography has a lot to do with it. Genetics, too.

So rivalries naturally occur. Oilers/Flames, Stamps/Eskimos, Canadian National Finals Rodeo/Calgary Stampede.

The divergence spills over into other areas of disagreement. A southerner can get pretty possessive about Bow River rainbow and brown trout. But when have you ever heard of Calgarians getting misty-eyed about working their way up a little brown-water stream in the Boreal, angling for Arctic grayling?

See what I’m saying?

The same can be said for moose and elk or mule deer versus whitetails.

But probably the biggest point of departure between north and south comes down to upland.

Pheasants — and their kindred spirits, sharptail grouse and Hungarian partridge — are forever in the part of the province where trees don’t grow.

While in the mixed forests of the north, the king of game birds is the ruffed grouse. At least, that’s what northern Albertans think.

It’s something that us northerners can feel pretty smug about, too.

While ruffie numbers do fluctuate for reasons biologists aren’t really sure of, as long as there is habitat they will survive in good enough numbers to provide reasonable hunting, even in lean years.

And one in every eight years or so, unbelievably good shotgunning is available during the rugged grouse’s legendary population spikes.

Pheasants haven’t fared so well. Thanks to the dismal and demoralized state of the Sustainable Resource Development Department these days, after years of budget cuts and morale-sapping reorganizations, bird game assessments are largely based on hunter anecdotes.

From the chat room chatter it appears that ruffie numbers — except in the extreme northwest where there appears to be a population bump — are fairly low.

But apparently they’re good compared to the hammering that pheasants took last winter and spring, with some bloggers vowing to lay off hunting this year.

Or they’re going to Montana, where something magic seems to happen once Albertans cross the Medicine Line. Even in a slow year, as 2009 apparently was, an incredible 110,000 ring necks were harvested. Little wonder that 35,000 upland bird licenses were sold.

Despite the similar spring weather that is being blamed for the latest chapter in Alberta’s pheasant woes, state biologists in northeastern Montana predicted “pheasant numbers are expected to be about average.”

No talk of a wipeout in the Big Sky state.

Pheasants Forever’s North Dakota population update predicted that hunters have “plenty of optimism,” with the border-hugging northwest quadrant ranked among the state’s “perennial pheasant powers.”

So what gives?

In Montana and North Dakota governments get it. Pheasant hunters bring big income into little prairie towns that are on the brink of getting blown away by the next Chinook.

So Montana has a game bird enhancement program that makes a million acres of private land available for pheasant hunting, plus another 32 million acres of federal and Indian land.

North Dakota has a similar program called PLOTS, which also negotiates with land owners to allow hunter access on private land and preserves, and enhances habitat.

North of the 49th we look over the border with envy and try to make do in a year when grouse numbers remain down and pheasants are reportedly even worse.

It was under these conditions that I headed out on back-to-back hunts for Alberta’s two game-bird solitudes.

The community pasture alley with its cloak of lush clover that borders a natural area looked like a ruffed grouse magnet.

But it wasn’t until we had hunted all the way out and were circling back on a trail through the bush that my bird-dog-in-training Penny finally made game, eventually putting up a ruffie with a right-to-left shot I couldn’t catch up to with both barrels.

The second bird, which flushed too close to the dog, was a pass.

The sun was well on its way down and we were almost back to the Jeep when the dog found another hot scent.

The bird swung to the left and I had to wait until it cleared a fence rail to get a clear shot ... which I missed.

Flush number four came when Penny picked up a scent at the edge of some timber in a pasture.

The last bird of the evening got up at the side of an oil road when the last rays of legal light was rapidly fading away.

Two shots.

Two misses.

Then it was early to bed for the long drive down to Buffalo Lake for a pheasant hunt the next morning.

Buffalo Lake is one of several fake pheasant hunting sites where birds raised by the private sector operator of the government’s state of the art pheasant hatchery at Brooks are released most days throughout the season.

In many ways it’s not an ideal hunt and despite being three-quarter sections it can get too crowded for comfort at times.

Even with its many disadvantages it’s a beautiful piece of rolling moraine habitat.

If you get lost in the moment you can imagine you’re hunting the real thing: cunning, wild roosters, rather than pen-raised domestics that hold nice and tight and flush cacophonically.

Which is what happened when Penny picked up a scent when we hit the first caragana hedgerow and the big bird flushed between us.

It fell in the long grass when the string of No. 6 shot caught up with it.

It was the only flush the Lab produced for the rest of the day.

So this battle of Alberta will go down as a tie.

Newfoundland is outta this world

Rockin' view of Manhattan

Millions enjoy watching the Emmy-winning comedy 30 Rock each week, but up here you can get up close and personal with the real 70-storey skyscraper and its crown jewel, Top Of The Rock.

As 30 Rock begins its fifth season and ratings keep rising, more tourists are going vertical to the 5,110 square metre observation deck with its unrivalled view of Manhattan. You get a history lesson on the way up, as the glass ceiling elevators screen a quick overview of the Art Deco site from the 1930s to present day.

While taking in the stunning 360-degree view of the city -- including an unhindered view of Central Park that's denied the rival Empire State Building some 15 blocks away -- you might spot an NBC celebrity nearby or en route to the private-function Weather Room on the 67th floor. But principal 30 Rock cast members Tina Fey, Alec Baldwin and Tracy Morgan have yet to film any scenes on the deck, partly because it stays open sunrise to sunset for public access.

Many of the show's exterior shots in the 30 Rock lobby and around the 19 commercial buildings that make up Rockefeller Center (including Radio City Music Hall and the famous winter-time ice rink) will be very familiar to tourists. But the actual series is shot in a studio across the river in Queens.

The basic Top Of The Rock ticket includes an informative multi-screen short on the building's rich history, developed by John D. Rockefeller after the stock market crash of 1929 caused nervous partners to stick him with much of the almost 10-hectare property. Work began in 1928 and the 30 Rock deck was opened in 1933, with an eye to replicating the open spaces and features of an ocean liner.

More than 350,000 people walk through the entire Rockefeller Plaza complex, a national historical landmark, each day, above and below ground.

Since Top Of The Rock reopened in 2005 after a nine-year renovation, joint tickets can be purchased for the excellent NBC studios tour and the nearby Museum of Modern Art. Special combination tours also highlight the art around the building, including the Swarovski "Joie" crystal waterfall sculpture.

For more information, see topoftherocknyc.com.

lance.hornby@sunmedia.ca

Stampede heats up Calgary

Japan wants to be more travel friendly

Japan is planning to recruit dozens of foreigners to visit the country and give advice on how to make things more travel-friendly for non-Japanese speaking visitors as it aims for higher tourist numbers.

The government will pay travel allowances to about 100 native English, Chinese and Korean speakers to visit key cities and come up with ideas on how to make it easier for travellers to use public transport, stay at local hotels and eat at local restaurants, said an official at the Japan Tourism Agency.

Although Japan has made an effort to provide information in other languages in recent years, especially in major cities, these remain hit-or-miss.

"What we hear is that there really isn't enough information on things like how to buy train tickets, or how to use the baths in traditional Japanese inns," said a government spokesman.

The information gathered by visitors will be compiled into a government report on tourism preparedness next year.


Saudi Arabia opens doors to pilgrims

Spirits linger at Canada's hotels

They are some of Canada's most exclusive hotels -- and many are also reportedly haunted. Fairmont Hotels and Resorts doesn't mention the presence of ghostly guests in its brochures, but, when asked, they don't hesitate to provide me with a list of their most noteworthy spooks, who seem to return again and again.

At last count there were no fewer than eight ghosts reported at six of the company's Canadian properties. The multitude of apparitions may have to do with the fact many of these Canadian hotels are historic. Some were originally Canadian Pacific Railway hotels built in the 1800s, and where there's history, there are always ghost stories. Or, as the Fairmont posits: "Ghosts haunt where they were happiest." And most people would be quite happy staying or working at these luxurious hotels.

Images: World's most haunted hotels

Images: More haunted places in Canada

Fairmont Chateau Laurier

If you can't believe a trusted journalist, who can you believe? While staying at this grand Ottawa hotel some years ago, the CBC's Patrick Watson reported two unusual experiences that seem to defy explanation.

One night Watson was awakened by a "sound as sharp as a pistol shot" and discovered a heavy glass ashtray on a nearby table had cracked neatly in half.

"It was not a particularly cold night. There was no conceivable explanation for this phenomenon," Watson told author Joan Rankin in the book Meet Me At The Chateau.

The next night he was awakened again by another loud sound, this time coming from the bathroom.

When Watson got up to investigate he found his shaving kit -- which he had placed behind the taps against the wall -- now at the far end of the room!

"Both these events, trivial though they sound, were inexplicable and left me quite shaken," he said.

Could it have been the spirit of Charles Melville Hays, the general manager of the Grand Trunk Railway and visionary behind the Chateau Laurier? Hays never got to see the official opening of the hotel he created. He perished on the Titanic, and some believe his spirit has been inhabiting the Chateau Laurier and overseeing its operation ever since.

The Fairmont Banff Springs

One could say that dedicated bellman Sam McCauley is as helpful in death as he was in life. McCauley, who worked at the iconic Banff Springs Hotel until his retirement in 1967, always promised he would return one day. But he passed away before returning to his beloved hotel. It seems that hasn't stopped him from fulfilling his promise, though. Some guests -- especially those who arrive late at night -- report being assisted by a bellman wearing an old fashioned hotel uniform, who helps them with directions and retrieves their luggage. The kindly bellman has also been known to help guests who lose their keys.

A National Historic Site of Canada, the Banff Springs may have not one but two ghosts. A so-called "Dancing Bride" is said to do the wedding waltz late at night. According to one account, the apparition my be the ghost of an unfortunate bride who, in the 1920s, met a tragic end when she stepped on her wedding veil and fell down a grand staircase to her death.

The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver

A "Lady in Red" steps out of elevators and has occupied at least one room at the Hotel Vancouver. She has been "seen" so often that her sudden appearances are no longer a complete surprise to employees and guests. The origin of the mysterious lady dates to 1939, when eight elevator shafts were built to accommodate guests. Due to budget restrictions at the time, only six elevators were actually installed and legend has it the hotel's friendly spirit inhabits one of the empty shafts.

Many "sightings" have occurred on the mezzanine level when the elevator opens, and in the corridors of the 14th floor. Once she was even mistaken for a guest by a Japanese family who returned to the reception desk to report their room was already occupied by a Lady in Red.

Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac

At the Chateau Frontenac -- one of the world's most photographed hotels and a National Historic Site -- the resident ghost is not a former employee or guest but the hotel's namesake -- Louis de Buade, Comte de Frontenac, a two-time governor general of New France.

According to one account, Frontenac left instructions that after his death his heart sent to his fiance in Europe. But the poor woman was apparently so distraught she returned the relic to New France. Frontenac's restless spirit reportedly wandered for a century before finding a home at the Chateau Frontenac, which was built near the historic Citadelle that the governor had begun at the end of the 17th century.

Attired in 17th-century clothing, the nobleman has been sighted wandering around the hotel looking for his soul mate ever since. He has also been known to float through the ballroom or watch guests while they are sleeping.

MORE INFORMATION

For details on Fairmont Hotels and Resorts, see fairmont.com.

writer@interlog.com

Hotels along the Hana Highway

Busy Timberlake has no time for golf

Justin Timberlake has found a down side to his blossoming movie career, he no longer has time for his first love - golf.

The multi-talented star is addicted to the game and has even had a putting green installed at his Los Angeles home.

But Timberlake has been so busy in 2010 making new movies Friends With Benefits, The Social Network and Bad Teacher he hasn't been able to take to the fairway in months - and it's having a negative affect on his handicap.

Timberlake says, "My game is pretty terrible. You know, it's that old thing. When the work is good, the game suffers. But you work so you can play."


Teeing off in Vegas

California dreaming

California. Just the word lights the mind with images of breezy Pacific coastlines, gently swaying palms, glamorous movie stars and a laid-back kind of life. Is there any other state in the U.S. that conjures up more whimsical thoughts or memories than this one?

The Golden State is so much more than surfers and movie stars, though. This is a place where people from all backgrounds come to dream. It’s where a boutique clothing store may be next to an auto body shop, where a celebrity may be caught having lunch next to an everyday Joe. It’s also an active place, where the sun coaxes people outdoors for a bike ride along Santa Monica Beach or a walk past the galleries of Laguna Beach.

More photos and blogs from California

Refusing to be defined by just one aspect of its homegrown culture, California is a lot of things to a whole lot of people. To me, it was:

Star spotting in L.A.

I arrived at Los Angeles International Airport amid record-breaking heat - the thermometer hit 45C in downtown L.A. on Sept. 27 - both tired due to my early departure from Toronto and discouraged by the lack of celebrity activity at LAX during my arrival. After scanning countless paparazzi shots of celebs flying into L.A.’s air hub over the years, I figured I was bound to see at least one actor immediately after landing.

Apparently, though, celebrities can be an elusive bunch, unless you know where to look for them.

While California has plenty to offer - from adventure tourism to world class museums, as I discovered during a press trip with the California Travel and Tourism Commission - the draw that celebrities and Hollywood hold for tourists in L.A. can’t be ignored.

So, if stargazing is your goal, The Grove and the Farmers Market should be at the top of your must-visit list.

These are “the No. 1 places to spot stars,” says David Hamlin of Weisman Hamlin Public Relations, a representative of the famous indoor and outdoor shopping and dining centres. “Usually every day you see someone who makes you stop and go … isn’t that?’ And it usually is.” Popular shows such as NCIS: Los Angeles have used The Grove and Farmers Market for filming, while celebrities often stop by to shop at stores like Anthropologie, Coach and Nordstrom. The CBS soundstages back onto The Grove, making area restaurants Maggiano’s and Wood Rock prime places to see talent from the Young and the Restless or Dancing with the Stars.

Active travellers who also hope to spot a celeb or two should take a hike in the hills surrounding L.A. In Runyon Canyon Park, it’s not uncommon to pass an actor with a hat pulled down trying to work up a sweat on the 45-minute climb to the summit of the trails.

The lives of the celebrities of Old Hollywood can also be explored thanks to bars like the Pig ‘N Whistle. Once the preferred watering hole of Hollywood greats such as Shirley Temple, Judy Garland and Howard Hughes, the Pig ‘N Whistle was a popular hangout after movie premieres hosted next door at Grauman’s Egyptian Theater. While the stars are gone, the legend of Tinsel Town’s beginnings lives on in this recently restored English pub-style establishment.

Finally, take a long look at your server when you stop for a meal. You may be looking at the next big thing. My waiter at dinner that night only moonlights in the service industry. By day, he’s a cameraman. The city is full of witty waiters who maintain the only thing they are really waiting on is their big break.

Another side of L.A.

While trying to spot a few celebrities - I was mildly successful, stumbling upon the premiere party for Law and Order: Los Angeles at W Hollywood Hotel and seeing John Malkovich eating lunch at the Mediterranean pizza resto Gjelina in Venice - I was also discovering another side of L.A.

This alternate side is filled with outdoor activities, museums and stores ranging from well-known luxury brands to kitschy, independently owned shops in bungalows. Travellers who want to vacation in L.A. and area without paying much mind to the Tinsel Town attractions will find plenty to satisfy.

The Los Angeles County Museum of Art - known as LACMA - is one of the top museums in the western U.S. with a permanent collection of 100,000 objects.

Works include paintings by Picasso, ancient Pacific Island objects, sculptures from Jeff Koons and 3,500 photographs.

LACMA is celebrating the opening of the 4,180-sq.-metre Resnick Exhibition Pavilion, a naturally lit structure that houses an impressive array of exhibits. “Eye for the Sensual,” a look at historic erotic paintings and sculptures, is an impressive display of what artists considered seductive years ago, while “Fashioning Fashion” is a large, must-see exhibit of well-preserved European clothing dating from 1700 to 1915.

However, considering the fantastic, temperate California climate, time spent outdoors when vacationing in the L.A. area may be time best spent. Head to the beach cities of Venice and Santa Monica and rent a bike from one of Perry’s Beach Cafes. I rode along Santa Monica Beach and past the Santa Monica Pier, which houses a vibrant carnival with a ferris wheel and a Forrest Gump-inspired Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. restaurant. The air was warm, while the breeze along the beach was cool and tinged with salt from the Pacific Ocean. Bike and running paths are plentiful - perfect for vacationers who want to be as active as Angelinos.

Finally, Los Angeles offers a bevy of shopping hot spots not to be missed.

In addition to The Grove, Hollywood’s Sunset Blvd., Melrose Ave. and Beverly Hills’ Rodeo Dr. are also prime places to shop while walking the city. For a unique retail experience, head to Venice’s Abbot Kinney Blvd. Home to quirky boutiques, restaurants and galleries, this is the place to go for unusual fashion statements and one-of-a-kind gifts. You can buy a surf board or T-shirt from the California culture experts at Surfing Cowboys or expand your knowledge of natural medicines and cannabis at The Farmacy.

With so many options away from Hollywood Blvd., the Los Angeles area is a definite refuge for outdoor junkies, culture hounds and fashionistas alike.

Laguna Beach, the real O.C.

Orange County is the California I’ve always fantasized about. My group arrived in the town of Laguna Beach after a 1.5-hour drive south from L.A.

Our route briefly took us on the Pacific Coast Hwy., undoubtedly one of the world’s most spectacular drives. The mixture of coastal views, lightly swaying palms and salty air drifting into our van told me I was arriving in one of the most quintessential SoCal areas.

Laguna Beach may be best known as the home of Kristen Cavalleri, Lauren Conrad and the other ultra rich stars of MTV’s Laguna Beach reality series.

While status - think flashy cars, multi-million dollar hillside homes and gorgeous bodies - is certainly the goal of many in this part of California, surf culture and Laguna Beach’s artistic roots define the area just as much.

For more than 100 years, Laguna Beach has been a haven for artists inspired by the beautiful surroundings. In 1918, the Laguna Art Association was established to promote local artists. Laguna’s first gallery opened the same year. Today, many places selling paintings, sculptures and jewelry dot Laguna’s core. Across the street, Main Beach is the perfect place to sit and watch waves crash against the sand while enjoying a gourmet frozen yogurt or testing a newly acquired surf board.

The town will soon be the home of Pure Light, a niche candle-making store.

Now in the Festival Center on Laguna Canyon Rd., Pure Light plans to move to the more pedestrian-friendly South Coast Hwy. in Laguna Beach. A candle-making session was arranged for our group and it quickly became one of my favourite activities of the week. After arriving in the cozy, fragrant store, owner Judy Kelly helped us choose wax colours, molds, scents, shells, stones and other trinkets to adorn our unique “candle bouquets.” Prices start at $8 to create a small candle and go up to $38 for a large, triple-wick creation.

I chose a barrel-shaped mold and shades of green and purple wax to compliment my vineyard scent choice. Using a sturdy tool, I broke chunks of wax into long strips and began placing them inside the mold. After filling the mold with seafoam, deep green and purple waxes, Kelly poured translucent wax over my creation to give it its final shape.

After our craft session, more sun and sand was in order. Our group dined on the roof of Hotel La Casa Del Camino (casacamino.com), an unassuming property steps from the beach with affordable rates, 10 custom rooms designed by surf companies like Quicksilver, and a rooftop lounge and indoor restaurant that was still buzzing with locals when we departed around 9 p.m.

The sunset over the Pacific Ocean, viewed while dining on filet mignon and sipping a pineapple mojito, was as fiery and pink as I’d ever seen. Below us surfers tested the waves of the ocean well into the evening.

Perhaps they were reluctant to let the SoCal heat wave go to waste. Or, perhaps, this is just another typical Wednesday night in Orange County.

If you go to California

MORE INFORMATION

For details on travel to California, contact:

- The California Travel and Tourism Commission. Surf over to visitcalifornia.com or call 1-877-225-4367.

- The Los Angeles Convention and Visitors Bureau, discoverlosangeles.com.

- The Anaheim and Orange County Visitor and Convention Bureau, anaheimoc.org or 714-765-8888.

Other useful websites: See thegrovela.com, abbotkinneyonline.com, purelightcompany.com and casacamino.com.

Top 10 shopping destinations

48 hours in Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang, the historic former royal capital of Laos, is an enchanting mix of tranquil Buddhist temples, French architecture left over from colonial days, lush foliage and sweeping river views.

Named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995, the city is no longer the sleepy backwater it once was and boasts boutique hotels and chic restaurants. But there are still plenty of glimpses of the peaceful, other-worldly city of the past.

FRIDAY

6 p.m. The main historic area fills a peninsula formed by the meeting of the town's two rivers, the Nam Khan and the Mekong, and can easily be explored on foot. Walk around the peninsula, on streets lined with French houses and towering palms.

You may pass locals playing "petang," Laos's answer to the popular French game of petanque or boules, a remnant of the colonial past.

Stop for a Beer Lao, the country's ubiquitous and delicious national beer, at a riverside bar and watch the sun set.

Later, sample Lao barbecue at one of the riverside restaurants. You cook slivers of meat on a metal tray heated over a bucket of hot coals in the center of your table, while vegetables, herbs, egg and noodles bubble away below.

SATURDAY

6 a.m. Rise early and head toward Sisavangvong road to watch the silent, ancient ritual of the Buddhist monks processing through the streets in their orange robes, collecting alms of sticky rice and food.

7 a.m. Just across the main road from the former Royal Palace, you can climb Mount Phousi for a fantastic view of the town and the two rivers that embrace it. It's a steep climb up steps cut into the hillside, but well worth it.

8.30 a.m. Time for breakfast. Sisavangvong road is lined with cafes and restaurants. Make sure you try some traditional Lao coffee -- strong but smooth with a slightly chocolaty taste.

10 a.m. The National Museum, showing a selection of religious treasures and antiques, is housed in the former Royal Palace, built in 1904 for King Sisavang Vong and his family.

Don't miss the famous Phra Bang gold Buddha, which can be seen in a separate room to the right of the museum entrance. The Buddha gave Luang Prabang its name.

The royal family's cars are displayed in a separate building in the grounds.

11.30 a.m. Head toward the far point of the peninsula to marvel at temple Wat Xieng Thong, which dates back to the 16th century. Have a look at the tiny, ornate red chapel in the courtyard, the intricate wall decorations encrusted with tiny glass mosaic tiles and the separate chapel housing King Sisavang Vong's funeral chariot.

1.30 p.m. For lunch, take your pick from the myriad cafes serving Lao, Thai and western food.

3 p.m. After temples, hill-climbs and a museum you've earned some relaxation. Head to Sisavangvong street and choose from the many places offering traditional Lao massages. You'll sweat away your aches and pains in a sweltering herbal sauna for as long as you can stand, before an invigorating massage.

EVENING

8 p.m. Dinner. The sleek Les Trois Nagas restaurant serves Lao specialties in a stylish setting. Sample strips of dried buffalo and squares of Mekong river weed deep-fried and scattered with sesame seeds followed by laab, a spicy salad of fish, chicken or beef with chili, coriander and lime served with sticky rice. Luang Prabang sausages are another local specialty.

10 p.m. Luang Prabang's famous night market takes over the main road from Mount Phousi onwards in the evening. You can pick up brightly colored woven shawls, Lao coffee, carved wooden souvenirs and paper lanterns.

SUNDAY

9 a.m. Ask a tuk-tuk driver to take you to the Kuang Si waterfall. The trip takes about an hour, winding through the lush green countryside, with frequent stops to allow the buffalo ambling along the road time to get out of the way.

You can climb up the steep wooded path to the top of the cascade or simply admire the dramatic falls from the lower paths. Make sure you take your swimming costume -- you can take a refreshing dip in some of the natural pools.

If the waterfall doesn't grab you, you could also take a boat trip to the Pak Ou caves, an important shrine filled with thousands of Buddha statues. Negotiate a price with one of the boatmen on the Mekong riverbank in Luang Prabang and chug gently up the river as it carves through green hillsides.

3 p.m. Back in Luang Prabang, spend the afternoon just wandering. You'll stumble across stunning temples hidden down tiny alleyways.

EVENING

6 p.m. The theater in the grounds of the National Museum stages performances of traditional Lao dancing on some evenings. Dancers in bright costumes act out Lao folk tales accompanied by musicians on traditional instruments.

8 p.m. Try the Coconut Garden restaurant for local specialities as well as plenty of Western dishes -- some, like grilled buffalo steak, with a local twist.

48 hours in Bangkok

North America's fastest-growing cities

The U.S. and Canada's emerging cities are not experiencing the kind of super-charged growth one sees in urban areas of the developing world, notably China and India. But unlike Europe, this huge land mass' population is slated to expand by well over 100 million people by 2050, driven in large part by continued immigration.

In the course of the next 40 years, the biggest gainers won't be behemoths like New York, Chicago, Toronto and Los Angeles, but less populous, easier-to-manage cities that are both affordable and economically vibrant.

Americans may not be headed to small towns or back to the farms, but they are migrating to smaller cities. Over the past decade, the biggest migration of Americans has been to cities with between 100,000 and 1 million residents. In contrast, notes demographer Wendell Cox, regions with more than 10 million residents suffered a 10% rate of net outmigration, and those between 5 million and 10 million lost a net 2.4%.In Pictures: North America's Fastest-Growing Cities

In North America it's all about expanding options. A half-century ago, the bright and ambitious had relatively few choices: Toronto and Montreal for Canadians or New York, Chicago or Los Angeles for Americans. In the 1990s a series of other, fast-growing cities--San Jose, Calif.; Miami; San Diego; Houston; Dallas-Fort Worth, Texas; and Phoenix--emerged with the capacity to accommodate national and even global businesses.

Now several relatively small-scale urban regions are reaching the big leagues. These include at least two cities in Texas: Austin and San Antonio. Economic vibrancy and growing populations drive these cities, which ranked first and second, respectively, among large cities on Forbes' "Best Places For Jobs" list.

Austin and San Antonio are increasingly attractive to both companies and skilled workers seeking opportunity in a lower-cost, high-growth environment. Much the same can be said about the Raleigh-Durham area of North Carolina, and Salt Lake City, two other U.S. cities that have been growing rapidly and enjoy excellent prospects.

One key advantage for these areas is housing prices. Even after the real estate bust, according to the National Association of Homebuilders, barely one-third of median-income households in Los Angeles can afford to own a median-priced home; in New York only one-fourth can. In the four American cities on our list, between two-thirds and four-fifths of the median-income households can afford the American Dream.

Advocates of dense megacities often point out that many poorer places, including old Rust Belt cities, enjoy high levels of affordability, while more prosperous regions, such as New York, do not. But lack of affordability itself is a problem; areas with the lowest affordability, including New York, also have suffered from high rates of domestic outmigration. The true success formula for a dynamic region mixes affordability with a growing economy.

Our future cities also are often easier for workers and entrepreneurs alike. Despite the presence of the nation's best-developed mass transit systems, the longest commutes can be found in the New York area; the worst are for people living in the boroughs of Queens and Staten Island. As a general rule, commuting times tend to be longer than average in some other biggest cities, including Chicago and Washington.In contrast, the average commutes in places like Raleigh or San Antonio are as little as 22 minutes on average--roughly one-third of the biggest-city commutes. Figure over a year, and moving to these smaller cities can add 120 hours or more a year for the average commuter to do productive work or spend time with the family.

Similar dynamics--convenience, less congestion, rapid job growth and affordability--also are at work in Canada, where two cities, Ottawa (which stretches from Ontario into Quebec) and Calgary, stand out with the best prospects. Many Canadians, particularly from Vancouver, would dispute this assertion. But Vancouver, the beloved poster child of urban planners, also suffers extraordinarily high housing prices--by some measurements the highest in the English-speaking world. This can be traced in part to the presence of buyers from other parts of Canada and abroad, particularly from East Asia, but also to land-use controls that keep suburban properties off the market.

Calgary, located on the Canadian plains, not much more than an hour from the Rockies, retains plenty of room to grow, and its housing price-to-income ratio is roughly half that of Vancouver's. Calgary is also the center of the country's powerful energy industry, which seems likely to expand during the next few decades, and its future is largely assured by soaring demand from China and other developing countries. In Pictures: North America's Fastest-Growing Cities

The other Canadian candidate, the capital city of Ottawa and its surrounding region, has developed a strong high-tech sector to go along with steady government employment. Remy Tremblay, a professor at the University of Quebec at Montreal, notes that Ottawa "is changing very rapidly" from a mere administrative center to a high-tech hotshot. Yet for all its growth, it remains remarkably affordable in comparison with rival Toronto, not to mention Vancouver.

In developing this list we have focused on many criteria--affordability, ease of transport and doing business--that are often ignored on present and future "best places" lists. Yet ultimately it is these often mundane things, not grandiose projects or hyped revivals of small downtown districts, that drive talented people and companies to emerging places.

Air travellers want more self-service

Much to do in Michigan

Q: I need to make a last minute business trip to Detroit and may explore the state while I'm there.

-- P. Barnes, Toronto

A: Here are a few ideas:

-- Many people don't know it but Michigan has a thriving wine industry with 71 wineries generating about $790 million US in revenue and employing 5,000 people. For ideas on touring wine country, see michiganwines.com.

-- This year marks the 35th-anniversary of the wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald (immortalized in Gordon Lightfoot's legendary ballad). Twenty-nine crew men died when the lake freighter sunk in Lake Superior on Nov. 10, 1975. A memorial service and other events will be held in Rouge River to commemorate the tragedy. See ssedmundfitzgerald.com.

-- For more travel information, contact the Michigan CVB online at michigan.org or call toll-free 1-888-784-7328 and ask to speak to a travel counsellor.

Q: Spending the Christmas holidays in Germany has been on my to-do list for some time. Where can I get information on neat places to celebrate the festive season there?

-- S. Turner, Toronto

A: Many Canadian tour operators -- including Avalon Waterways, Scenic Tours, Viking River Cruises, Jerry van Dyke Travel, Trafalgar Tours and Exclusive Tours -- offer Christmas cruises along the Rhine, Moselle or Danube rivers. En route to the country's beautiful Christmas markets, passengers are treated to lovely landscapes and vistas of charming towns.

The German National Tourism Office says Danube cruises, for example, stop in Nuremberg, where the medieval town square is the perfect setting for the city's annual Christmas market. On the Rhine, Cologne -- with its seven Christmas markets -- is a highlight. The market next to the Cathedral is the most popular.

Berlin has more than 60 Christmas markets including one in front of Charlottenburg Castle, which will feature the Biedermeier period. Historic carriage rides, theme exhibits in the palace, and specialized lighting will focus on the fascinating era between 1815 and 1848.

Other ideas for the holidays include staying overnight at the enchanting 'Anno 1640' hotel in Bernkastel-Kues (maerchenhotel.com). The historic hotel provides rooms fit for kings and queens with fairy-tale motifs such as Sleeping Beauty and the Frog Prince.

The small village of Seiffen, in the Ore Mountains of southern Saxony, is known for its skilled wood carvers. More than 100 small workshops produce wood-carved Christmas ornaments from angels to nutcrackers.

In Rothenburg-ob-der-Tauber, the Kaethe Wohlfahrt Christmas store is famous for its Christmas decorations, which can be purchased year-round. During the holiday season, Kaethe Wohlfahrt holds special Christmas-themed exhibits.

For more ideas on holiday visits to Germany, visit the German National Tourism websites at germany.travel and cometogermany.com.

Q: What currency can I use on a trip to Taiwan?

-- C. Costa, Mississauga

A: Taiwan's currency -- called the New Taiwan Dollar -- is also known as the Taiwanese dollar or TWD. At press time, $100 buys about $3,033 TWD. The symbol for TWD can be written NT$, NTD and NT.

ilona@mycompass.ca

Newfoundland is outta this world

Pharrell regrets not living in Paris

Fashionable hip-hop star Pharrell Williams regrets turning his back on his dreams of living in Paris, France after taking the ill-advice of his former manager a decade ago.

The Neptunes superproducer reveals he came close to buying a home in the heart of the French capital so he could fully immerse himself in the culture and fashion of the city.

But Williams decided against investing in Parisian property - and now it's one of his biggest regrets.

He reveals to Interview magazine, "I've debated (buying a place in Paris) for a decade. Like 10 years ago I almost bought a flat (apartment) there just to have a place there in the art district, but my manager at the time convinced me not to. I regret it though, because my experiences being there would have been very different if I'd been staying in my own place."


Valuable tips from travellers

48 hours in Bangkok

With its gilded temples, tuk-tuk taxis, spicy cuisine and racy nightlife, Bangkok is full of contradictions, congestion and centuries-old exotic allure.

Here are some suggestions from Reuters correspondents with local knowledge to help you make the most of a 48-hour visit:

FRIDAY

6:00 p.m. - First, get the big picture. Head to Sathorn for a sundowner at Banyan Tree Hotel's Vertigo Grill and Moon Bar (www.banyantree.com).

Perched on the 61st floor, the open-air roof-top bar is not for the those inclined to dizziness, offering a spectacular panoramic view of Bangkok. Get there early to secure a table at the edge. Its chic lounge is popular with the cocktail crowd, drawing the rich and the beautiful. Strictly no shorts or flip-flops. Opening hours: 5 p.m. - 1 a.m. (weather permitting)

8:00 p.m. - Fuel up with a traditional Thai dinner at Ruen Mallika, a converted 19th-century teak home with a mammoth menu specializing in dishes for royal families. (www.ruenmallika.com) Sit on the floor upstairs slung around low tables and enjoy delicacies like deep-fried flowers and chicken wrapped in banana leaves. Bring a map to find this spot in an obscure corner of the Asoke neighborhood off busy Sukhumvit Road. 10:00 p.m. - Stroll down Sukhumvit, elbowing your way through teeming sidewalk markets selling knock-offs of just about everything, and then cool off with a drink in the Bed Supper Club (www.bedsupperclub.com), a futuristic white oval pod with a bar and lounge area with beds suspended from walls. Those looking to dance into the night can venture into "Q Bar," known for its good local and international DJs (www.qbarbangkok.com/).

SATURDAY

8:00 a.m. - If you're awake, start the morning off in style with a leisurely breakfast on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. The Mandarin Oriental's Riverside Terrace's all-you-can eat morning buffet is an institution. (www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/)

9:30 a.m. - Find your way to the nearest pier on the Chao Phraya River and take a riverboat (www.chaophrayaboat.com) to Tha Chang to spend a few hours in Bangkok's historic "Old City," an area rich with character and packed with golden temples, glittering palaces and Siamese architecture.

10:00 a.m. - Visit the Wat Pho Temple, the largest and perhaps most impressive temple in Bangkok, famed for its huge, gold-plated reclining Buddha measuring 46 meters long.

10:30 a.m. - Feeling sore? Wat Pho is also the birthplace of traditional Thai massage and is Bangkok's main training center for masseuses. Thai massage is a must while you're there. Cost is about 120 baht for half an hour or 200 baht per hour.

11:00 p.m. - Stroll nearby to the Temple of the Emerald Buddha in the breathtaking Grand Palace. Inside is a shrine to Phra Kaew Morakot, a revered Buddha image carved from a jade block. Raised on platforms, no one is allowed near the sacred Buddha except Thailand's King.

12:00 p.m. - Lunch time. At Tha Chang pier you'll find dozens of mobile food stalls and small restaurants offering all kinds of authentic Thai dishes -- from noodle soups and curries to pad Thai noodles and spicy meat or vegetable dishes served on rice.

2:00 p.m. - Cater to your inner shopper at Chatuchak weekend market, a labyrinth of more than 5,000 stalls on a network of narrow paths over 27 acres, making it Thailand's biggest market. (www.chatuchak.org). On sale are jewelry, wood carvings, clothes, collectibles and plenty of reproduction antiques.

4:00 p.m. - Time for a drink in a chic art lounge. Take a taxi to the backpacking mecca of Khao San Road and head straight to Dali Bar on Soi Rambutree, popular with locals and tourists. Afterwards, stroll down Khao San Road, a former rice market packed with budget hotels, young travelers and market stalls.

7:00 p.m. - Need a break from Thai food? Try "Eat Me Restaurant," a hidden, chic eatery with walls hung with art and a romantic terrace on Soi Pipat off Convent Road. It only opens in the evening, offering contemporary Australian dishes with an Asiatic touch in candlelight to the strands of jazz. Good selection of Australian wines. (www.eatmerestaurant.com)

9:00 p.m. - Not far from Soi Pipat is Bangkok's biggest nightmarket and its most famous den of iniquity: the Patpong entertainment district. Check out stalls of clothing, DVDs, shoes and just about everything else, and get a glimpse into the heart of Bangkok's racy nightlife. Patpong became famous in the 1960s as a R&R stop for U.S. servicemen during the Vietnam War. It also includes a hip hop bar and several bars with live bands.

If you're looking for someplace quiet, Patpong is not it.

11:00 - For a nightcap and a bit of dancing, try Tapas on Soi 4 off Silom Road (www.tapasroom.net) with its three floors, each with a different DJ, including a second-floor live band-DJ combination that draws big weekend crowds.

SUNDAY

9:00 a.m. - After a Saturday night in Bangkok, a hefty dose of caffeine is in order. Lounge on sofas and plan the day ahead while sipping lattes at Kuppa Cafe & Restaurant on Sukhumvit Soi 16.

11:00 - Check out The Jim Thompson House, a complex of teak traditional Thai homes turned into a museum of antiques and Southeast Asian art. (www.jimthompsonhouse.com) The compound once belonged to American silk merchant Jim Thompson, who launched Thai silk to the West and was an avid art collector before he died mysteriously. The house is in a small lane next to Khlong Saen Saeb canal with an outdoor bar and restaurant.

12:00 p.m. - Sample the street food on Sukhumvit Soi 38. This Bangkok lane off the main Sukhumvit Road offers wonderful cheap Thai food in a bustling market, which comes alive at nights with dozens of stalls selling food ranging from duck noodles to chicken rice, papaya salad and marinated grilled catfish.

2:00 p.m. - To learn more about Thai history, art and culture visit Museum of Siam in an old Thai mansion just south of Wat Pho temple. For those interested in the 1960s, a section is devoted to icons, theater, art, and advertisements from that era. Cap off the afternoon with Thai iced tea in its lovely garden cafe. (www.museumofsiamproject.com)

5:00 p.m. - As the heat of the day eases, relax with a visit to Lumpini Park, one of the few patches of green in the city center. Find a shady bench and chill out or join the joggers as the sun sets and the city seems to pause for breathe before gearing up for another frenetic night.

48 hours in Shanghai

Nirvana exhibit to open in Seattle

Nirvana are set to be the subject of a major museum exhibition in their native Seattle, Washington.

Nirvana: Taking Punk to the Masses will open to the public next spring at Seattle's Experience Music Project.

It will feature memorabilia and artifacts conjuring up the spirit of the legendary grunge trio.

Bass player Krist Novoselic says, "I'm really excited for Nirvana to be a touchstone for this exhibition... It's great that there will soon be a collection that celebrates that contribution to music and culture."

The exhibit will be accompanied by a new book on the band, titled Taking Punk to the Masses: From Nowhere to Nevermind, which will include rare and unseen photographs and artwork.


A weekend in Seattle

Teeing off in Vegas

LAS VEGAS — The last place you expect to find tranquillity is close to the Las Vegas Strip. And the last place you expect to find a lush, green setting is in the hardscrabble desert outside of the city.

Shadow Creek, one of the most exclusive golf courses in the United States, answers the bell on both counts.

“It’s sort of like Jurassic Park after the gate,” GM Mark Brenneman said.

The closest things to dinosaurs I saw were little lizards, and perhaps some of the guys I played golf with on a few courses around Vegas.

Just as impressive as the people who play this course are the ones who have been turned away, including U.S. presidents and Canadian prime ministers, all because they weren’t guests at an MGM Resorts International property.

Little wonder that someone with considerably less stature would feel special as a result of staying at the new Aria at CityCenter on the Strip.

The birth of Shadow Creek was not without its doubters, but hotel magnate Steve Wynn and designer Tom Fazio pulled it off by the time the course opened in 1989.

Brenneman says only about 30 rounds a day are played and even if other players are nearby, you don’t see them because holes are separated by mounding and trees.

That isolation is enhanced by elevation changes, gardens, waterfalls and the occasional glimpse of a swan or peacock on a design that stretches to 7,560 yards.

Shadow Creek has no slope or course rating, so you can’t record a round there for handicap purposes. The rule is there are no rules, so just do what it takes to have fun, including — in true Vegas tradition — making a few bets.

When you’re talking wagers, the first place that comes to mind is the Strip, where our Vegas golf experience began at the Wynn.

They like to talk about “experiences” in this town and our day began in the Wynn Spa, where we were treated to a straight-razor shave.

Not only did Tina, our attendant, do a fine job when she sat us down in the vintage barber chair, but she went one better when I asked her to take it down to the wood atop my melon — perfect for the warm desert afternoon of golf ahead.

The Wynn Golf Club was a favourite haunt of the iconic Vegas Rat Pack when it was the Desert Inn. The par 70 is different now, a Wynn-Fazio creation that has about 1,200 mature trees from the old course, not to mention man-made waterfalls along its 7,000 yards with the unique Vegas skyline in the background.

There are just two sets of tees with the forwards stretching to 6,464 yards.

Yet it’s quite accommodating to all skill levels, with generous landing areas off the tee and not a ridiculous amount of trouble.

While playing alongside the Strip was special, most of the Vegas golf experience takes place outside of the city in places like Lake Las Vegas in Henderson, an area hit hard by the struggling U.S. economy.

The good news for golfers staying at the Loews is that the resort has struck a deal to get its guests onto nearby South Shore, a private Jack Nicklaus design.

South Shore has generous fairways and considerable elevation changes over its 7,000 yards. It’s solid throughout, but closes on a powerful note on the last three holes, a stretch dominated by forced carries over desert gullies.

Cascata is also outside of Vegas, about 35 minutes from the Strip in Boulder City. Duffers quickly discover there is very little flat land on this Rees Jones design that stretches to 7,137 yards at the tips.

A caddie is a key weapon in trying to figure out the wind and slick greens, but Cascata presents incredible vistas.

Most of the courses are associated with hotels and casinos on the Strip, but many can cost as high as $500 to play.

Nevada canyon all about the views

Boarding the Titanic, 100 years later

The first outing was a disaster.

But a century later, a travel agency organizing a cruise that follows in the wake of the voyage of the Titanic, isn't having difficulty manning the boat.

Miles Morgan Travel, the British company organizing a Titanic Memorial Cruise - which will depart from Southhampton, England, on April 8, 2012, 100 years to the day the original boat set off - reports all cabins have been reserved.

The 1,230-berth ship, Fred.Olsen Cruise Line's MS Balmoral, will be packed with ticket holders from 26 countries. Among them will be the kin of 30 victims who died during the 1912 sinking.

After leaving Southhampton, the vessel will make its way to the Irish port of Cobh - the last time Titanic reached land.

On April 14, organizers will take up a position where the Titanic sank with a loss of more than 1,500 lives.

Not your regular cruise, a special memorial will take place in the early hours of April 15 - the day it went down.

It may not be alone at the spot. Another anniversary cruise is reportedly being planned out of Boston.

Once finished at the sinking site, the UK ship will move onto Halifax, N.S., where passengers will be able to walk among the graves of Titanic victims.

Fred.Olsen Cruise Line's MS Balmoral. (Courtesy Fred.Olsen Cruise Line)

Valuable tips from travellers

Scary Ontario destinations

Have an "a-maze-ing" Thanksgiving or get scared out of your wits for Halloween.

Just in time for the harvest season are corn mazes and pumpkin patches along with the terrors that await on spooky Halloween terror trips.

In the Woodstock area, there are two mazes to explore while on some evenings, things get haunted.

At Leaping Deere Legends near Ingersoll, visitors to the 12-acre (4.85-hectare) corn maze find "half the fun is to try and find what's hidden in the corn field," said Julie Budd.

Say hello to hillbillies Billy Bob and Coz Charlie who are well armed to "hold off anyone who goes near their moonshine." Their high-powered pumpkin cannon, can blast a pumpkin across the field.

"Families come for an afternoon of entertainment from a wagon ride to the pig races, shopping in our new country store or satisfying their hunger at the Farmers' Table serving up local food dishes," Budd said.

On Spook Nights watch out for the Swamp Thing on the trails. Those brave enough can navigate the corn maze by flashlight Oct. 22, 23, 29 and 30 starting at 7:30 p.m.

The farm also has a museum with a collection of Deere tractors, equipment and collectibles.

Over at the Norwich Optimist Corn Maze, the big above-ground labyrinth is open weekends through Oct. 31.

There are activities such as a petting zoo, mini maze, snack shack, duck races, playground, corn box and pumpkin bowling.

Visitors can meet Jed the mini horse, Pete the pot-bellied pig, Ruby and Snowflake the sheep at the petting zoo.

There are Saturday family movie nights outside under the stars Oct. 9 and Oct. 16 starting at dusk.

It's Trick or Treat day Oct. 30 for tours of the maze and collecting candy and goodies, costume judging for various age groups and other activities.

When darkness falls Oct. 23 and 30, there's a haunting maze "for those brave enough to enter."

That's when revellers can scour the paths of the maze by the light of the moon and see if they "can avoid screaming when you meet some of our spooky characters hidden in the corn . . . you never know what is around the next corner."

Serene scene turns mean

By day, Snyders Family Farm in Bright, between Kitchener and Woodstock, is a serene spot for a day in the country.

There's a huge pumpkin patch to pick a favourite off the vine, an animal corn maze, hay rides, pirate ship, clown show, animal zoo, kid's tractors to ride, a straw castle and mountain, and other attractions.

When darkness falls, the Night Terrors begin with the haunted Barn of Fear, Hayride of Horror and Haunted Corn Maze.

It's fun to watch how many people can make it through the barn, filled with ghosts and goblins, "without escaping through the chicken exit."

The 30-minute hayride is scary enough but includes a walk through the haunted forest and corn maze where creatures are lurking.

Other spooky spots

Canada's Wonderland, north of Toronto, has the Halloween Haunt, Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights this month from 7 p.m. "Brave souls who dare to enter" will find scary attractions and most thrill rides operate in the dark. www.canadaswonderland.com; (905) 832-8131.

Bingemans in Kitchener has ScreamPark after a terrifying success last year when "an all-time high of 383 petrified guests" chickened out. There's Psycho Circus, Fright Tales, NightMare Creations and the Zombie Hunt on weekends and Oct. 19 to 31. screampark.ca; (519) 744-1555.

--- --- ---

If you go

Norwich Optimist Corn Maze (Highway 59, three kilometres north of Norwich) is open Saturdays noon to 9 p.m. and Sundays and Thanksgiving Monday, noon to 5 p.m. It costs $7; $5, children, five to 12; free, four and younger. The Haunted Maze is from dusk until 10 p.m.; last admission 9 p.m. www.norwichcornmaze.com; www.norwichoptimistevents.com; (519) 863-2139.

Leaping Deere Legends (544212 Clarke Rd.) in Ingersoll is open Wednesday to Saturday, 1 p.m. to 6 p.m.; Sundays and holiday Monday, noon to 5 p.m. Maze admission: $8.99; $6.99, ages 10 and younger; free, to age two. Spook Nights are $10; museum, $4. www.leapingdeerelegends.com; (519) 485-4795.

Snyders Family Farm (936685 Blenheim Rd./Oxford Road 8) in Bright is open weekends and Thanksgiving Monday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission: $10; $8, ages three to 11; younger, free. Night Terrors are 7 p.m. to 10 p.m. Oct. 9; Oct. 15, 16, 21, 22, 23, 28, 29, 30 and 31. Price is $16. www.snydersfamilyfarm.com; (519) 632-7356.

Jim Fox can be reached at onetanktrips@hotmail.com

Ghosts and goblins out for Halloween

48 hours in Frankfurt

Got 48 hours to spend in Frankfurt, Germany's financial capital?

The city, dubbed Mainhattan after the skyscrapers dominating the skyline and the river Main flowing through its center, offers history and culture in addition to modern monuments to finance.

Compact Frankfurt is ideal for an amble or a bicycle ride to appreciate its low-key lifestyle.

Reuters correspondents help you get the most out of a stay.

FRIDAY

6 p.m. Start your early evening stroll through the city at the Opera square.

The Alte Oper was inaugurated by Emperor Wilhelm I of Germany in 1880, destroyed in 1944 and only reopened to the public in 1981. It no longer houses an opera company but regularly hosts concerts (see www.alteoper.de). In winter, an ice rink in front of the opera is always fun to visit.

From here you can see the latest addition to Frankfurt skyline, the 170-meter OpernTurm designed by Christoph Maeckler, across the street.

Walk along Fressgasse which leads from Opernplatz and Boersenstrasse. Take a break and have an aperitif in one of the many restaurants and bars or browse through the gourmet food shops. If you visit in June, check out the annual Fressgass' festival, with its barrels of Rheingau wine.

7:30 p.m. In summer, don't miss the Long Island Summer Lounge -- with the city lacking a beach, they built one on the roof of a parking garage (www.longislandlounge.de). This is the perfect spot for a pre-dinner drink and allows you to admire Frankfurt skyline at sunset.

8 p.m. For dinner, venture out to Gerbermuehle on the banks of the river Main. If the weather is warm, enjoy the outdoor terrace, one of the most beautiful spots in Frankfurt. Cuisine varies from continental European to local specialties -- don't miss the schnitzel with roast potatoes and cranberries.

Or, in the city center, try Heimat on Berliner Strasse 70, a contemporary restaurant offering local cooking.

10:30 p.m. If you feel like painting the town red, Cocoon Club is one of the most high-profile Techno, House and Electro clubs in Frankfurt.

SATURDAY

10 a.m. Start the day with a sightseeing tour on a red double-decker bus.

11 a.m. Finish the tour at the Roemer, Frankfurt's city hall in the historic old town center where half-timbered houses, destroyed in World War Two, have been rebuilt. The Roemer itself houses the office where Frankfurters tie the knot.

From late November until December 22 the Frankfurt Christmas Market takes place on the Roemerberg, a tradition dating from 14th century. It includes tonnes of sausage, gingerbread and mulled wine. A guided tour takes you on the rooftop balustrade of St. Nicholas Church if a merry-go-round ride is not enough.

If you can, squeeze in a quick visit to St. Leonhard's Church of the international English-speaking Catholic Parish in Alte Mainzer Gasse -- a delightful church with many of the furnishings dating back to the 1800s.

12 noon You cannot leave Frankfurt without having been to Kleinmarkthalle, the food hall for locals. Those keen on trying some German sausage should make a beeline to the stand of Ilse Schreiber, a permanent fixture in the building since 1979. You cannot miss her little stall -- there is always a queue!.

1 p.m. While you are in the area, you may wish to spend some time on Zeil, Frankfurt's main shopping street, or on Goethestrasse, dotted with luxury boutiques.

3 p.m. Why not stop for a snack at Brot und seine Freunde (Bread and its friends) for homemade German bread as well as excellent cakes and coffee.

5 p.m. To round off your city tour, walk to Maintower and enjoy the view from the observation platform some 100 meters above the streets. The bar and restaurant opens at 5:30 p.m. and is a good place for a pre-dinner drink.

6:30 p.m. Try dinner at Jasper's, a popular French restaurant hidden away in a backyard in Sachsenhausen.

8 p.m. Hop in a cab to attend a concert at the Schauspielhaus or a play at the English Theater which brings productions from Broadway and London's West End to Frankfurt.

10:30 p.m. Nightcap? Have a drink at the Brasserie & Wine Bar of the Flemings Hotel at Eschenheimer Tor. Take the doorless Paternoster lift up there!

SUNDAY

9:30 a.m. Join the locals for breakfast at Cafe Karin at Grosser Hirschgraben near Hauptwache, a prime spot for reading the paper and watching the crowds. The service is fantastic and breakfast comes at very reasonable prices.

10:30 a.m. Just across the road is one of the best museums in Frankfurt, the Goethe House, an absolute must. This is the childhood home of the author of "Faust." It was built in typical 18th-century bourgeois style and is decorated with period furniture and paintings. Don't miss the antique grandfather clock on the second floor and the family library.

12 noon. Head toward the Palmengarten, botanical garden dating back to 1868, set in the magnificent West End, the former Jewish quarter of Frankfurt with numerous villas and lovely quiet streets.

While there, try the pastry at Cafe Siesmayer, one of the best places in the city.

1:30 p.m. Head back to the Museumsufer, Frankfurt's unique boulevard of museums that offers cultural delicacies ranging from applied arts and architecture to film, fine arts, Jewish history, antique sculptures and more. One of the most prominent museums is the Staedel, which includes work from Botticelli, Duerer, Picasso and Matisse.

3 p.m. Make your way back into the old town to visit the Museum Judengasse (Museum Jewish Street) at the Boerneplatz, five minutes walk behind the Dome. The museum focuses on Jewish life in Frankfurt. If you leave your ID at the reception desk, you will receive the key to the attached cemetery (closed on the Sabbath). Visit the graves of the most prominent permanent residents, including Mayer Amschel Rothschild, the founder of the Rothschild family international banking dynasty.

4 p.m. To round off your visit, try a glass of local apple wine, a typical drink in Frankfurt which is served with pretzels.

Honouring a famous Dutch drink

48 hours in Hanoi

With its remnants of French-colonial architecture, lively ‘Old Quarter’ alleyways and streetside culinary culture Hanoi might just be Southeast Asia’s most charming capital city. It may be the oldest, too.

In October, the city entered party mode to mark the 1,000th anniversary of the founding of Thang Long, the settlement established by King Ly Thai To on the Red River in the year 1010 that has grown into a metropolis of 6 million inhabitants.

Here are some suggestions from Reuters correspondents with local knowledge to help you make the most of a 48-hour visit:

FRIDAY

6:00 p.m. - Before diving into Hanoi’s bustle head first, you’ve got to get above the din to see what you’re getting yourself into. Head for the northwest end of Hoan Kiem lake and have a cold one at Legends Beer on the second floor balcony of the “Ham Ca Map” building at No.1 Dinh Tien Hoang street. Or have an espresso (or cocktail) at Illy Cafe on the top floor of the opposite building, the one with the KFC on the ground floor. Take in the sights and sounds of a city at the crossroads of communism and capitalism, quaintness and anarchy.

7:30 p.m. - Grab a taxi and head south to Ngo Hue, a quiet alley between Pho Hue and Ngo Thi Nham street. At No.65 is the mellow but hip Chim Sao (www.chimsao.com) where a youthful clientelle sit on the floor around low tables enjoying delicacies like lotus root salad and clay pot fish.

9:00 p.m. - Stroll over to Trieu Viet Vuong, a street that has built a name for itself as cafe central. Stop for a tropical fruit smoothie or iced coffee. Or, if you prefer, have a nightcap or three at one of Hanoi’s coolest and coziest bars, Tadioto, at No.113. Run by Vietnamese-American journalist and author Nguyen Qui Duc, Tadioto periodically has live music and literary events.

SATURDAY

6:00 a.m. - If you’re up, grab your camera and head down to Hoan Kiem lake or over to Reunification Park, widely referred to as Lenin Park, to watch locals doing taichi and various other morning exercise routines. Enjoy the cool before the day’s heat.

7:30 a.m. - ‘Pho’ is the de facto national dish of Vietnam and everyone seems to have their favourite place to eat this noodle soup for breakfast. For clean, classic Hanoi-style, try the relatively upmarket Pho Vuong on Ngo Thi Nham street. Not far away, at No.13 Lo Duc, is one of the city’s best known shops, Pho Thin, where gargantuan broth cauldrons sit on a grimy, medieval-looking stove in the front window.

8:30 a.m. - There must be a zillion cafes in Hanoi but Cafe Mai at No.79 Le Van Huu is a no-frills Hanoi institution known for its sublime joe. Across the street there is a Cafe Mai shop where you can buy Vietnamese-grown and roasted beans for home. 9:30 a.m. - Head to Cho Hom to check out a giant indoor market that specialises in cloth or go north where, about a half a mile (0.8 km) away, is Hoan Kiem lake. To the north side of the lake is the teeming Old Quarter where the 36 streets are named after the goods and services that used to be sold along them.

Alternatively, angle west of the lake to Nha Tho street, the site of the 124-year-old St. Joseph’s Cathedral. Nha Tho street, and the perpendicular Ly Quoc Su, offer boutique shopping.

12:00 p.m. - A solid lunch option is Madame Hien, at No.15 Chan Cam street. This restaurant in a beautifully restored French villa is chef Didier Corlou’s tribute to his grandmother-in-law, serving up tasty renditions Vietnamese home cooking.

2:00 p.m. - Take in some of Vietnam’s lively contemporary art scene. Art Vietnam (www.artvietnamgallery.com) features paintings, sculptures, photos and prints from some top artists. The Bui Gallery (www.thebuigallery.com) bills itself as one of the leading contemporary art galleries in Southeast Asia.

4:00 p.m. - It’s time for a drink. For a coffee or cocktail in a manicured garden dotted with vintage Vespas, take a taxi to Soft Water (www.softwatergroup.com) on the bank of the Red River.

7:00 p.m. - If you ate bun cha for lunch, consider Madame Hien for dinner. Otherwise, for a “traditional and experimental” approach to fusing Vietnamese and French flavours, Green Tangerine (www.greentangerinehanoi.com) wins big plaudits.

9:00 p.m. - For after dinner carousing, try Mao’s Red Lounge or Funky Buddah on Ta Hien street in the Old Quarter. Around the corner, on Hang Buom street, is Dragonfly. If you want to get your late night on, grab a cab to the Red River and Solace, a boat turned into a rather grimy bar. A bit south is another colourful late night spot called the Lighthouse, aka Phuc Tan. Watch your wallet and mobile phone.

SUNDAY

10:00 a.m. - If you want to pamper yourself, the Sunday brunch at the Sofitel Metropole is hard to beat. A more casual breakfast choice would be Joma Bakery Cafe on Dien Bien Phu street, which serves quality Western cafe fare.

2:00 p.m. - The Vietnam Museum of Ethnology (www.vme.org.vn) is one of Hanoi’s best, featuring detailed displays of the cultures and traditions of the country’s 54 ethnic groups and life-size replicas of some dwellings. Kids love this museum, especially the water puppet shows put on regularly in the garden.

For war buffs, the Army Museum has room after room of photos and exhibits depicting how the Communist forces vanquished the French colonialists and then the American imperialists. There are several vehicles and planes outside, plus a giant sculpture made from pieces of shot down warplanes.

5:00 p.m. - The Intercontinental Hotel’s Sunset Bar on West Lake offers a comfortable westward-facing spot to sip a tropical cocktail and watching the sun set. The cheaper way to watch dusk over the lake is to pick from any number of cafes on the banks of West Lake or Truc Bach where you’ll sit on low stools or perhaps, if you’re lucky and they’re not all taken, a lawn chair.

Thousands flock to B.C. salmon run

Shanghai offers it all

Once known as 'the Paris of the East', Shanghai, China is uniquely poised to take on the title of the world's newest 'it' city.

From its humble roots as a fishing village, Shanghai transitioned into a bit of a n'er do well until its final emergence as the largest and most prosperous city in China with one of the world's busiest ports.

With a population in excess of 23 million and host city to Expo 2010, this bustling metropolis is a must-see destination.

Whether shopping, dining or sightseeing, Shanghai offers it all - from the affordable to the deliriously luxurious.

And there is nothing more luxurious than the recently opened The Peninsula, Shanghai.

With a construction cost alone (excluding furnishings and artwork) in excess of US$450 million, The Pen is the newest and most expensive of the Peninsula Hotels' nine properties.

Located on the historic Bund-a UNESCO-designated Modern Heritage Site, the Pen offers breathtaking views of the Huangpu River, Pudong and the former British Consulate gardens.

And it's rather fitting that Peninsula Hotels' parent company, Hong Kong and Shanghai Hotels Limited, has returned to its roots in Shanghai. In the first half of the last century, the company owned four hotels in Shanghai - The Kalee, Majestic, Palace and Astor House.

With 235 glamorous rooms and suites designed with a nod to the Art Deco style of the 1920s and 1930s, The Pen seamlessly blends luxury and state-of-the art technology with historical references.

The Pen, Shanghai is the first hotel I have ever stayed where the ubiquitous call to housekeeping for audio/visual operating instructions was not necessary. And who has ever seen a discreetly hidden, built-in automatic nail dryer above a vanity? Triple glazing for reduced sound? Specially made mattresses? Gazillion thread-count sheets? Rolls Royces or Bimmers available for hire? Unbelievable service? Complimentary long distance calls?

These fabulous features barely scratch the surface of all The Pen has to offer. Star chefs in all the restaurants. The Peninsula Spa by ESPA. An 80 foot indoor swimming pool and fitness centre. And a stunning shopping arcade featuring 25 of the most recognizable luxury brands in the world (think Chanel, Prada and Hermes) ensure a stay at The Pen is a memory you'll savor for a lifetime.

So it's understandable you may not wish to leave the hotel to explore all that Shanghai has to offer. But explore you must.

The Bund - perhaps the most visited area in Shanghai - is really only several kilometres long and runs along the always busy Huangpu River.

One could easily feel as if you were in Paris or Buenos Aires as the Art Deco buildings are breathtaking and thankfully being lovingly restored.

Scores of chic restaurants inhabit many of these amazing structures and an absolute must-dine experience awaits at Mr. & Mrs. Bund on the 16th floor of Bund 18. Other wonderful dining experiences can be found at Lost Heaven and The House of Roosevelt.

The French Concession - about a half-hour cab ride from The Pen - pays homage to Shanghai's French influence with art galleries, cafйs and bars making this a lively - and lovely - area to visit.

And what would a trip to China be without some shopping? I can't quite decide if it's the great purchases you'll make or the fun of bargaining which makes the experience more memorable. Having been many times to Hong Kong and several times to Shenzhen, I'm not a faint-of-heart shopper. But Shanghai will really test your shopping mettle as the merchants here are pros when it comes to negotiating.

That's why we hired an English-speaking shopping guide (from Shopping Tours Shanghai) to take us to reputable shops. Prices were 'fixed' which afforded us the chance to spend more time actually shopping and less time haggling.

A trip down Shanghai Nanjing Pedestrian Street is just that - a trip! Not great shopping here, but fascinating people watching. However, be careful if a young pretty girl - or two - approach and ask to practice speaking English. This is usually not the reason for engagement.

Culturally Shanghai has lots to offer with visits to the Shanghai Museum, Yuyuan Garden, People's Square and Shanghai Art Gallery worthy of consideration. Expo 2010 is what it's all about currently but the exposition runs only through the end of October.

I must admit I feel a bit of a cheat here in that Hong Kong was, until visiting Shanghai, my favorite city on earth.

I'll definitely go back to Hong Kong - but only after a several night stay at The Peninsula, Shanghai.

48 hours in Shanghai

Ghosts and goblins out for Halloween

Like nothing better than to scare yourself silly? As Halloween approaches, ghosts and goblins come out to play at many popular attractions. If you dare, check out these haunted houses and wait for ghostly apparitions to go bump in the night.

Fort Fright

Billed as Ontario's best haunted experience, step inside the walls of Fort Henry in Kingston as it is once again transformed into the terrifying Fort Fright -- Carnival of Carnage. On now until Oct. 31, each Wednesday to Saturday night from 6 to 10, the Fort is haunted by ghosts and spooky creatures. New this year is a carnival theme accompanied by nightly performances by Nikolai Diablo, an award-winning travelling sideshow artist. The show includes fire-eating, sword swallowing and Russian Roulette with a 9-inch construction spike. Ghosts of the Fort tours are also available. These 45-minute tours of the real-life ghost stories of Fort Henry are offered by the Haunted Walk of Kingston. See fortfright.com.

Howling good time

Niagara Falls gets a little spooky during Howl-O-Ween at Great Wolf Lodge. On from Oct. 15-31, there's plenty of spooktacular fun and activities at the Haunted Lodge. Families will enjoy: A trick-or-treating trail that coils through a haunted forest; a monster mash family dance; pumpkin carving; costume and other contests (with prizes); spooky story time; and wolf science. Great Wolf Lodge houses a massive indoor and weatherproof water park, including 13 waterslides, three pools, two whirlpools, a large outdoor heated spa experience, a giant wave pool, a 500,000-litre lazy river, Fort Mackenzie (a four-storey interactive treehouse water fort); and the Niagara Rapid Run, a water rollercoaster. See greatwolf.com/niagara/waterpark.

Happy haunts

For those who like Halloween more fun than spooky, there's Mickey's Not-So-Scary Halloween Party at Disney World's Magic Kingdom in Florida, on select dates until Nov. 1. Guests of all ages are encouraged to dress up in Halloween costumes and collect delicious candy as they trick-or-treat around the park. Entertainment includes Mickey's "Boo-to-You" Halloween Parade with Disney characters and the stars of the Haunted Mansion attraction. The parade begins with a ride by the Headless Horseman. And don't miss Happy HalloWishes, a fireworks show where Disney villains go trick-or-treating in the sky.

Around the park are favourite Disney characters and villains in special Halloween costumes. Lighting, music and other special effects transform areas of Magic Kingdom into happy haunted hollows. Event admission ticket is required. Order tickets online or by calling 407-WDISNEY or 407-934-7639. See disneyworld.disney.go.com/parks/magic-kingdom/special-events/mickeys-not-so-scary-halloween-party.

Extreme Halloween

If you like your Halloween a little more intense, then check out the terror of Halloween Horror Nights at Universal Orlando Resort in Florida. This year's event marks the 20th year for Halloween Horror Nights with all-new content. This seriously nightmarish evening includes eight new haunted houses, six new scare-zones and two live shows. Attractions include Catacombs: Black Death Rising, Zombie Gras, The Coven, Saws N Steams, Fear Revealed, Hades the Gates of Ruin, Horror Nights: The Hallowed Past, Havoc: Dogs of War, Zombiegeddon and many more. Halloween Horror Nights continue Fridays through Sundays through Oct. 31. Special Halloween Horror Nights tickets are required for the event, which is not recommended for children under 13 years of age. See halloweenhorrornights.com/orlando.

World's most haunted

In York, ghosts don't come out just for Halloween. The English city is the world's most haunted according to the Ghost Research Foundation International, which has recorded 504 ghosts sightings there. There are ghost tours year-round. Ghostly tales abound.

Spooky attractions include the 700-year-old Haunted House, where countless visitors have felt the icy touch of invisible fingers and heard eerie screeching from the attic. When ITV's Most Haunted came to film, the crew ran out screaming (hauntedhouseyork.co.uk).

Then there's the Treasurer's House, which is open to the public. In 1953, an apprentice plumber was installing a new central heating system in the cellar when he heard the sound of a horn. All of a sudden, a horse and rider came through the cellar wall. The rider wore a helmet and armour worn by Roman soldiers, and soon a column of Roman soldiers followed, dressed in green tunics and plumed helmets, carrying shields and spears. Excavations of the basement revealed the Treasurer's House was built atop an old Roman road.

And at the York Theatre Royal, the ghost of a nun known as the Grey Lady is seen in the room behind the dress circle. Legend has it the nun was the lover of a nobleman who was thrown into a windowless room when their affair was discovered. The entrance was bricked over and she was left to die. It is supposed to be a good omen if the Grey Lady is seen by the performers. A second ghost -- this one of an actor who died during a duel -- is sometimes spotted backstage or in the wings watching the performance.

For information on York and ghost walks, see visityork.org, ghosthunt.co.uk, ghosttrail.co.uk, theoriginalghostwalkofyork.co.uk and ghostcreeper.com.

Sympathy for the devils

Hotels along the Hana Highway

Q: Years ago my husband and I stayed at a quaint hotel in the middle of nowhere on Maui. We had to drive a pretty curvy two-lane road for a few hours to reach it. For our anniversary I wanted to surprise him with a return trip but the name escapes me. Do you have any suggestions where I could get information?

-- D. Salveri, Toronto

A: You are probably referring to the Hana Highway. For centuries Hana was cut off from the rest of Maui but that changed when a dirt road opened in 1927 connecting the small town to Kahului. In the 1960s, the dirt road was replaced by a two-lane paved road -- with 600 hairpin turns and more than 50 one-lane bridges. The Hana Highway went over streams and past cliffs and jungles.

Formally called route 36 -- but known by locals as the "highway to heaven" -- the 85-km road is considered one of America's most scenic drives. Beatles member George Harrison, who once lived on Maui, even wrote a sweet diddy -- Soft-hearted Hana -- which he dedicated to the funky town on the island's eastern shore.

The town has a historic 70-room hotel -- Hotel Hana-Maui -- which was recently bought by Green Tea, a U.S. firm that plans on making major improvements.

"Overall, the property is in good shape. The key to success will be in the branding of the hotel and Hana experience," said Joy Berry, president of Green Tea. Located on 30-hectares, Hotel Hana-Maui is surrounded by a 1,821-hectare ranch at the end of the Hana Highway. Since opening in 1947, it has been a favourite retreat for travellers seeking unspoiled natural beauty, tranquillity and a Hawaiian sense of place. Rooms are void of radios, clocks and televisions, and complimentary activities are offered -- everything from yoga to bicycle tours to lessons in lei-making and hula dancing. For more, contact hotelhanamaui.com or 808-248-8211. For more on the island, contact the Maui Vistors Bureau at visitmaui.com.

Q: Our hearts continue to go out to Haiti's earthquake victims. We'd appreciate any suggestions on how to help.

-- R. Owens, Scarborough

A: In addition to major charities such as UNICEF Canada (Unicef.ca), Care Canada (care.ca) and Save the Children Canada (savethechildren.ca) to name a few, there are private citizens assisting with relief efforts.

Quebec photographer Benoit Aquin went to Haiti as a volunteer with the Centre for International Studies and Cooperation and documented the human drama that unfolded there. His photo exhibition Haiti: After the Earthquake is on view at Galerie Pangee (galeriepangee.com, 40 Rue Saint-Paul Ouest). Aquin's publicist Genevieve Blouin says a percentage of proceeds from photograph sales will be donated to CECI's humanitarian efforts in Haiti.

Celebrities, of course, have also picked up the torch. Actor Sean Penn and philanthropist Diana Jenkins co-founded the J/P Haitian Relief Organization. Donations can be made online at jphro.org or mailed to J/P Haitian Relief Organization, File 1410, 1801 W. Olympic Blvd., Pasadena, CA 91199-1410 or Attention: 4th Floor J/P Haitian Relief Organization, City National Bank, 1801 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90006. According to the NPO's website, since the Jan. 12 earthquake, J/P HRO has been on the ground, working to help Haitians not only recover from the disaster but also build a better future.

Canadian director Paul Haggis is working on Artists for Peace and Justice. Recently Hollywood's biggest stars came out to help raise nearly $100,000 at the Sept. 11 fundraiser for APJ in Toronto. You can donate online at apjnow.org. For general information and how you can get involved in the Haiti effort, e-mail info@artistsforpeaceandjustice.com. The non-profit organizations says 100% of donations go directly to the Haiti relief effort.

Send travel questions to ilona@mycompass.ca

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Saudi Arabia opens doors to pilgrims

Sunshine all year round, a medley of multicolored coral reefs beyond its sandy shores and the remains of an ancient desert city make an enticing tourist destination. But don't pull out your bikini yet.

In Saudi Arabia there are no shorts, no mixing of unrelated men and women, and most significantly, no easy access into the country.

Home to Islam's holiest cities of Mecca and Medina, Saudi Arabia regards itself as the guardian of Islam and is often closed off to foreigners. Even though it receives more than five million Muslim pilgrims a year, they are not allowed to travel within the country.

Tourist visas are rarely issued and come with many restrictions but this is due to change as Saudi Arabia adopts a new strategy to tap into a niche market of conservative tourism.

"It is about the kind of people that come to Saudi Arabia. It is an Islamic country that is home to Islam's holiest sites so most people who come here come for Umra and Haj (pilgrimage)," said Abdulla al-Jehani, an official at the Saudi Commission for tourism and Antiquities.

For the past six years the tourism authorities focused their efforts on attracting more locals and Gulf nationals, who are allowed entry to Saudi Arabia without a visa.

"We are working on a new program... called 'Umra Plus,' which means 'Umra Plus tourism,'" Jehani said, adding that visiting pilgrims will be allowed to extend their stay in the kingdom to visit certain areas that were previously inaccessible to them.

With sites such as the ancient Nabatean city in Madaen Saleh; a 300-year old village of Rijal Alma; and the remains of a famous railway linking the Levant with the holy city of Medina, Saudi Arabia has a lot to offer.

The leading oil exporter says it hopes to raise its tourism contribution to non-oil GDP to 11 percent within the next 20 years from its current 6.5 percent as it seeks to diversify away from oil and provide jobs for its 18 million local population.

TAPPING INTO NICHE MARKET

Perched on the edge of one of Saudi Arabia's mountains in the Western region, 1,800 kilometres above sea level, the Taif water park resort has become a hub for conservative Gulf tourists who want to have a little fun in the sun while still adhering to their religious principles.

Wearing "Islamic" swimming trunks that cover the area from his belly button to his shins, Mishaal al-Azmi and his family merge well with their surroundings at the water park resort. His wife, clad in black and veiled, sits by his side.

"Abroad they bother us. They look at us with discrimination ...because of our Islamic dress. Here we feel like we are free, no one bothers us. Everyone has the same values and traditions," he said.

Taif, along with other mountaintop destinations in Saudi Arabia, have become alluring summer hot spots for conservative families from the Gulf who are looking to enjoy a holiday in keeping with Islamic values and traditions.

Saudi Arabia follows an austere version of Sunni Islam and religious police patrol the streets to ensure adherence to Islamic Sharia, including a ban on alcohol and often music.

Men must dress modestly and women cover their figures with a loose black garment, called the abaya, while restaurants segregate single men and families into separate sections.

"Saudi Arabia is a conservative country that has its values and principles, making it different than other places, and that may attract some people," Jehani said.

"Among the principles for the tourism vision for Saudi Arabia is that the country is and will remain conservative, having its own values and principles, and no one will change that," he added.

Many Saudis choose to travel abroad for a change of scenery and cooler weather, but nearly 1.4 million residents of other Gulf countries visit the kingdom during summer, Jehani said.

One Kuwaiti woman, shopping for herbs in an Al Taif bazaar, said she felt safe in Saudi Arabia, free from what she considered vulgar images seen when travelling abroad.

In order for Saudi Arabia to expand its tourism industry as it aims to capitalize on pilgrim visitors it must first attract investors to build more hotels and facilities which tend to be overcrowded during peak summer times.

LACK OF INVESTMENT

Tourism's development is hampered, however, by lack of interest among investors worried about weak returns, causing a shortage of hotels and other facilities.

"We do not find ourselves in a position to reach out more in terms of leisure tourism. We are not yet ready because of the standard of the industry in terms of the services, the ease of transport between cities in the kingdom. This all needs improvement," Jehani said.

Even though Taif is one of the most popular summer destinations in the country, it only has 24 hotels and 450 serviced apartments while it receives about 2 million tourists a year, said Ahmad Aljuaid, a local tour guide.

Investors' main concern is also to have a steady stream of tourist all year long, not just in the summer when more people pour into the country, said Abdulhamid al-Amry, member of the Saudi Economic Association.

Prices of lodging more than double during the summer and some hotels are only open for a few months a year.

Jehani believes that the "Umra Plus" program will be one solution that will help increase demand for tourism throughout the year, and contribute to eliminating the seasonality problem.

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Rwanda's happy hip-hop pigs

Edmund Ndizeye, self-styled pig DJ, stoops to adjust the amp at a farm in the wrinkled hills of northern Rwanda.

The wires leading from his room feed a varied diet of hip-hop, reggae, R and B, love songs and local music to his pink curly tailed audience who, according to Ndizeye's boss, are thriving on the beats and melodies.

"Human beings like music so I asked myself, why not for animals?" said Gerard Sina, director of Urwibutso, a farm attached to a popular truck-stop. "We have to select music which can satisfy my animals."

As the honeyed lilt of Shania Twain wafts over the pig-pens, Sina says he discovered the technique in Belgium six years ago and claims he's seen dramatic results.

"I have a sample which have been reared with music and another without. Those reared with music double their yields in terms of number of offspring, the quality of the meat and their weight," he tells Reuters.

Feeding the pigs on leftovers from his restaurant and fruit juice processing plant, Sina says his enterprise is fully organic and sustainable -- nothing goes to waste, including pig excrement.

His litter of musical swine also helps combat poverty using a traditional method of wealth distribution.

He gives away around 150 piglets to local families every month. The first-born is returned to Sina, the rest of the litter stays with the foster family, while the mother is passed on to another family.

"It can easily reduce poverty and food security in this region. This is a way of eradicating unemployment," he says.

BALLADS FOR DIGESTION

Despite Sina's efforts, many of Rwanda's 10 million-strong population remain hungry.

According to the World Food Program website, Rwanda's crowded hillsides and rapid population growth have led to deforestation, soil erosion and have hurt agricultural productivity.

Half the population is highly vulnerable to food insecurity while over 50 percent of children are chronically malnourished.

Still, Agriculture and Animal Resources Minister Agnes Kalibata, is optimistic Rwanda can achieve the Millennium Development Goal of eradicating extreme poverty and hunger by 2015.

She says three years ago Rwanda was extremely food-insecure, but now a government drive, which trebled agricultural spending as a percentage of gross domestic product since 2007, has propelled sector growth at more than 6 percent.

"In those three years we've got it down to a level where farmers are worried about the excess food they have in their houses," she told Reuters.

The main elements of the government programme are land consolidation and the distribution of high-yielding seeds fertilizer and, like Sina's philanthropic venture, livestock.

"We have a one-cow per family program where we've reached 90,000 families. The results have been tremendous in terms of family income," she said.

After feeding, Ndizeye plays soft ballads to help the pigs relax and digest, like Celine Dion or Bob Marley. Later he plays more aggressive dance tracks to perk them up such as legendary American rappers Jay-Z or 2Pac.

"When we want to make them pregnant we have to put on strong music, so that the males can be strong and virile," Sina says, helmeted guinea fowl and piglets mingling in the dust behind him.

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Thousands flock to B.C. salmon run

ADAMS RIVER, B.C. -- At a remote park in British Columbia’s Shuswap region, nearly 15,000 people clamoured to catch a glimpse of bright red sockeye salmon moving upriver in record numbers on Sunday.

This year, as many as 70,000 people from all over the world will come to Adams River, which runs through Roderick Haig-Brown Provincial Park, to witness in awe as up to six million fish swim the waters to mate at the end of their four-year lifespan.

The massive school is part of an unprecedented 10.1 million Fraser River run of salmon returning to B.C. watersheds this year.

“People literally plan vacations to come here from all over the world,” explained Jeremy Heighton, community liaison officer for fisheries and oceans Canada.

“They’re from anywhere you can imagine. It’s really a phenomenon in many other areas of the world,”

Families with children, couples, and tourists from China and Japan arrived at a clearing anchored by well-organized hospitality tents stationed near various paths and viewing platforms along the narrow river.

Crowds, many with cameras and camcorders in hand, had gathered along the rocky edge of the river and along paths, but the atmosphere remained quiet and respectful as the clouds of dark-red fish crowd together, at times near the shore and sometimes mid-stream.

Further along a small creek, people on small bridges look down as a few red fish splash along the shallow waters, trying to make their way further upstream to find clean gravel and fresh running water where females can lay eggs to be fertilized.

After taking their one big chance at mating, over the next few days, the crimson fish will lose their colour and die.

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