Amazing but far from erotic, the statues sculpted by Gustav Vigeland stand throughout the formal 32.5-hectare European-style garden, surrounded by lush trees and divided by stone patios, stairs plus a lovely fountain.
Born in 1869 on a southern coastal farm in Mandel, Vigeland studied carving in Oslo.
RAVE REVIEWS
After three years working under the tutelage of a well-known sculptor and mentor, he spent five years travelling, visiting major cities in Scandinavia, Europe and Italy.
Influenced by Auguste Rodin's works in Paris, paintings by Norwegian artist Edvard Munch, and Renaissance art in Italy, Vigeland began experimenting with portrayals of life and death. Back home, his exhibitions received rave reviews.
His later restoration work at a medieval cathedral in Trondheim was another major influence.
Back in Oslo, the municipality gave Vigeland an abandoned studio, where he produced numerous sculptures on commission and proposed sculpting a monumental fountain. This was first produced as a model in 1900 and eventually placed in Frogner Park, after people ridiculed his suggestion to put it in front of the Parliament buildings.
After sculpting, he created several grouped figures, then a tall granite column, before city officials told him they wanted to demolish his home to make way for a library.
Vigeland carved out a deal for a new building in which to work and live -- sealing the bargain with a promise to donate his future drawings, models, engravings and sculptures to the city.
His new studio was in Kirkeveien, an area near Frogner Park, which he regarded as perfect for his fountain and the silent population of nudes the sculptor planned to create.
From 1924 until his death in 1943 from heart disease, Vigeland completed his design for the fountain and the 212 figures.
So why are they nude, you might well ask?
Our guide said Vigeland wanted a universal appeal, with future generations not distracted by clothing that would date his statues and make them lack relevance.
Mainly finished between 1939 and 1949, with contributions from a bank, the city and private donors, there are six groupings on an 850 metre-long axis, based on an over-all theme of mankind's journey through life.
There is strength in those depicted while running, wrestling, dancing, posturing, sharing quiet moments between couples and friends, joy in a woman running with her baby held out front in both hands, her long hair streaming behind, love in the statue of a woman protecting a group of tiny children, and pathos, in the withering and sagging bodies of elders.
Vigeland also displayed a touch of humour, including an angry, foot-stamping boy, and a man being attacked by a horde of tiny babies. That one I leave for your interpretation.
Start at the five large and two small gates plus two copper-topped gatehouses, then cross a bridge with 58 sculptures representing the human condition, and go on to the Children's Playground with eight bronze statues on a granite column that represents a fetus.
Continue to The Fountain, portraying children and skeletons embraced by branches of large trees to represent birth, death and continuation.
Next is The Monolith Plateau with 36 groups of figures wrapped around a column to represent a circle of life; and finally, the Wheel of Life, which shows four people and a baby, symbolizing humanity's eternal continuation.
My group only had an hour or so, which was hardly enough time to see everything. But as I looked into the faces of the figures Vigeland left for us, the humanity, spirit and tranquility of this highly imaginative artist clearly fulfilled a legacy that none before him -- or after -- have accomplished. This is the largest sculpture park ever created, our guide said.
And no one who sees the monolith will ever forget it. Standing 17 metres high at the top of the set of stairs, with figures along the side, the detail of 121 intertwined bodies is amazing.
Working with Vigeland's models, it took three stone carvers 14 years to complete, hued from a block of granite weighing several tonnes.
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IF YOU GO TO OSLO, NORWAY
- GETTING THERE
Take Oslo city bus 20 and No. 12 streetcar to Vigeland park, available from Majorstuen station. You can drive Ring Road 2 to Majorstuen and Kirkeveien, but parking is limited.
- TIPS
Admission is free and this major tourist attraction is always open. There is a visitor's centre inside the main gate with a cafe and souvenir shop. The sculptor's home houses the Vigeland Museum, a five-minute walk south from the park's main gate.
- NORWEGIAN COASTAL CRUISES
I visited Oslo before embarking on a cruise of coastal Norway with Hurtigruten. The peak cruise season is summer, but even fall and winter voyages attract visitors, many hoping to see the Northern Lights, which offer a light show ranging from soft greyish white to brilliant greens.
The line's most popular cruise sails north from Bergen for a 12-night round-trip voyage. Various discounts and itineraries are available. For more on Hurtigruten's cruises, contact GLP Worldwide Expedition Travel & Tours, 1211 Denison St., Unit 26, Markham, ON, L3R 4B3 or e-mail requests@hurtigruten.ca. On the web, visit hurtigruten.ca or call 905-489-1938 or toll-free 1-866-383-1110.
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