The rain is so relentless, the canopy of the old-growth forest we're walking through is scant protection.
People not only flock to Vancouver Island's West Coast to witness weather like that, they pay good money to go out in it.
Storm-watching is centred around tiny Ucluelet and its better-known neighbour, Tofino.
Weather that would otherwise be considered fit only for demented ducks is relished at hotels anxious to fill rooms in the off-season.
That includes the new Black Rock Oceanfront Resort in Ucluelet, which had been open just two weeks when I arrived in early February.
Arguably the most sensible way to watch a storm is from the dry, warm side of a floor-to-ceiling window, preferably with one hand clasping a bracing drink, the other a loved one's shoulder.
But for some, nothing will do but to feel the wind reddening their cheeks and water leaking down their necks.
That's how we ended up in the capable hands of Gisele Martin of Tla-ook Cultural Adventure Tours, a First Nations owned and operated company. (Call 1-877-942-2663 or visit www.tlaook.com).
She led us along Schooner Cove Trail, in Pacific Rim National Park, stopping to share her considerable knowledge of the rainforest, its ferns and endless varieties of lichen.
The trail, a kilometre-long boardwalk with many sets of stairs, emerged near a tiny village where Gisele grew up and a sand beach strewn with long strands of bone kelp dislodged from the ocean floor.
Thanks to inadequate rain gear, my shoes and slacks got wet. I opted out of the afternoon fun, a stroll on part of the Wild Pacific Trail, at Ucluelet, with Bill McIntyre, owner/operator of Long Beach Nature Co. (Call 250-726-7099 or e-mail waves@oceansedge.bc.ca).
His outings include a "luxury to wilderness'' hiking experience.
The Wild Pacific, which hugs the coast, is hewn by hand through old-growth rainforest. It's one of two places recommended for safe storm viewing. The other is the deck of the Wickaninnish Interpretive Centre in Pacific Rim National Park.
Storm-watching season runs November to March, with the biggest ones blowing in from December through February.
Resorts offering storm packages include:
* Black Rock, the newest and biggest development along this stretch of coast with 133 studio and one- and two-bedroom suites, all privately owned. Float Lounge has floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the open ocean. Call 1-877-762-5011 or visit www.blackrockresort.com.
* The Wickaninnish Inn, on Chesterman Beach, promises ocean or beach views from each of its 75 guest rooms and suites. Phone 1-800-333-4604 or visit www.wickinn.com.
Ucluelet is a five-hour drive northwest of Victoria. B.C. Ferries also sail to Nanaimo, which makes for a shorter drive. (Visit www.bcferries.com).
Presentations
Novack's Talks With Travellers, 7 p.m. March 9, 211 King St., London. Nahanni Wilderness Adventure, with Maya March.
If you go
For more tourism information, visit www.vancouverisland.travel
Mail can be sent to Doug English, c/o The London Free Press, P.O. Box 2280, London, Ont. N6A 4G1; faxes to 519-672-1824.
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