Monday, March 30, 2009

Magic on the Mediterranean

Lolling on the deck of a cruise ship in the Mediterranean is an inviting image any time, but we found it especially appealing during the off season.

Cruising in the winter is wonderful -- none of the crowds, heat or humidity of summer travel. Travel along the Mediterranean is cool and sunny, with temperatures ranging from 16C to 20C in December, January and February.

Our 14-day cruise with Royal Caribbean aboard the Brilliance of the Seas luxury ship took us to Spain, Portugal, Morocco and the Canary Islands. This all-inclusive luxury cruise encompassed all our needs: Relaxation, comfort and the excitement of travel without costing a fortune.

As first-time cruisers, we envisioned a quiet trip gazing into tranquil blue waters while reading a book and sipping a glass of wine. The reality aboard Brilliance of the Seas was different and one embraced by our silver-fox shipmates from the U.S., Britain, Canada, Spain, Germany and Russia.

They expected to be entertained. Endless bingo and poker games, mini-golf, rock-climbing, swimming, working out in the fitness centre and lectures on topics ranging from shopping at the ports to acupuncture were available. You could also dance, try karaoke or enjoy comedians and entertainers in any of the 11 lounges.

Cruisers who love to eat were rewarded 24 hours a day. The food on the ship was ample and plentiful but it catered to the 60-plus crowd who seem to prefer traditional fare. The attendants were friendly and efficient. We found other cruisers loved to chat and socialize, so if you wanted absolute peace and quiet, you had to search for a nook.

There were only two rough days at sea when the 90,000-tonne ship rocked back and forth. As I lay feeling nauseated in our suite, my husband and hundreds of others carried on with no problem.

The ports of call were definitely the highlight of this cruise. The first stop, Barcelona, is a city you cannot help but love. Barcelona has it all: Friendly people, delicious food like tapas, paella, and fresh seafood, topped off with the spirited wine from their own region Catalunya. There's shopping, museums, cathedrals, the Barri Gotti or Gothic Quarter with many buildings dating back to Medieval times, Sagrada Familia, Guell Park and many more of Antoni Gaudi's world famous architectural wonders.

The next stop is Malaga, which is a lovely seaside capital of Spain's Costa del Sol. Malaga, the birthplace of Picasso, has steep, winding streets and pretty white houses with adobe rooftops along the cliffs. At the top of the city is an interesting 14th-century castle, Castillo de Gibralfaro. Malaga has orange trees, sandy beaches and a city centre with all kinds of shops, cafes and fresh seafood. We had calamares a la plancha for lunch, which came right out of the sea that morning.

After sailing through the Strait of Gibraltar, you arrive on the coast of Funchal, Madeira, a picturesque city with lush tropical fruit and flowers. At the local farmer's market, you will be coerced into tasting some unusual fruits you have never heard of but will remember, like paw paws and guavas. Speciality items include handmade embroidered linens, delicate needlepoint and sweet Madeira wine.

We visited three of the seven Canary Islands: La Palma, Tenerife and Lanzarote.

La Palma is a volcanic island that rises 7 km above the Atlantic. Our port of call, Santa Cruz de La Palma, the capital, is on the edge of the volcanic crater called la Cadereta. Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands and known as the Island of Eternal Spring, has the Anaga mountains running through its centre and Teide, a dormant volcano and Spain's highest mountain. Santa Cruz de Tenerife, our port of call, is 290 km off the coast of Africa. This bustling port city has all kinds of stores with leather goods, clothing, perfume and jewelry. Lanzarote has more than 100 volcanoes. Plants grow out of rich, black volcanic soil here.

Casablanca was disappointing if not for the pottery, food and handicrafts. The city itself is dusty and dirty, but the Hassan II Mosque is outstanding. It is the second-largest in the world and definitely worth a visit.

We wished we had more time to explore Morocco outside Casablanca.

Cadiz, one of the oldest cities in Spain, is gorgeous. It is an ideal holiday location with old cobblestone streets a short walk to the sea. I sampled a large plate of fresh anchovies just like the locals, crunching down the bones and all with a swig of San Miguel cerveza.

Lisbon -- the oldest capital city in Europe -- is a shopper's delight with quality wool items, exquisite leather purses, wallets, shoes and boots. Its bakeries are famous for rich custard tarts that melt in your mouth.

Below, flower market in central Cadiz, Spain, the historic seaside city is located next to Spain's Sherry Triangle.

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IF YOU GO

MORE INFORMATION

To get the best price for a cruise, be flexible on dates and itineraries, and check prices often on websites. Prices drop significantly a few weeks before the sail date and cruise lines post deals. But when you find a good price, book quickly. Booking online is easy with a representative at royalcaribbean.com.

Per person prices for this off-season cruise ranged from $799 for a room with a balcony to $1,079 and up for a suite with a marble bathroom with soaker tub, bar, balcony, concierge lounge, CD player, DVD player, big-screen TV, and 24-hour room service. The cruise line offers tours at each port of call ranging from $50 to $200. Our cruise sailed round trip from Barcelona. We stayed one night at the Euro Grand Marina on the harbour (about $200) before the cruise and four nights at the Rivoli Ramblas on Las Ramblas ($150 per night). Flights to Barcelona from Toronto in December, January and February range from $750-$850 per person, round trip, on airlines such as Delta, Air Canada or British Airways. Check online or with a travel agent for fares.


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