Romans say you'd need more than a lifetime to fully discover their city, and that's its charm -- with so much to see it's impossible to get bored. As a comparison, there's definitely more to see here than in Paris.
Everywhere you look there's a swirling mix of styles from every conceivable era. At any given time you can find a 2,000-year-old Roman temple supported by huge white columns, and around every corner there will likely be a church where you can admire frescoes from the Middle Ages that are not listed in guide books; then it's off to a trattoria to savour the best spaghetti carbonara you've ever tasted.
Such a place requires you give yourself over to the pleasure of wandering the streets for a while and then stopping at a cafe to recharge with a good espresso.
The citizens of Rome are a proud bunch and have every reason for being so.
Although it's possible to see them as stuck-up, all they want is some respect. They, after all, are forced to put up with the hordes of poorly mannered tourists who come in droves and act like they own the place.
A smile, some politeness, a few words in Italian (hello: buon giorno; please: per favore; thank you: grazie; it's easy to pick up) will quickly be repaid in kind. Once the ice has been broken you'll be surprised by their kindness.
And you don't have to dress like a super model to make a good impression; just don't show up looking like you're going jogging.
If you stay in the city a few days and get into a routine, the locals will quickly accept you. The owner of the little bar where you go for coffee will recognize you and offer a kind greeting. Try standing at the counter; it's cheaper and you get to interact with Italians. The headwaiter at that fantastic little restaurant will soon find you his best table.
Of course, Rome is expensive. But there are deals. Air carriers like Air Transat and Air Canada offer transportation and accommodation packages at very reasonable prices. Restaurants can be pricey, but it depends on the neighbourhood. In Trastevere, for example, you can find excellent full-course meals for around $20.
But what to see, where to start? There are the mandatory destinations: The Vatican, the Coliseum, the Roman ruins in the historic city centre, the Pantheon, the Castel Sant'Angelo, the catacombs, the Trevi fountain. The museums are a must-see, in particular the vast collection at the Capitolini Museums.
Then there are the churches. In my view, these are one of the Italian capital's most interesting aspects. They're everywhere, on every street corner, from every era and in all sizes. There are more than 900 in the Eternal City. They're overflowing with history, relics, masterpieces, anecdotes, icons and plaques.
Faced with a Catholic church that's increasingly disconnected from modern realities, Italians have risen to the occasion. They've kept their faith, but maintain the illusion they're still following the Vatican's moral precepts. The result is a religious fervour that can still be felt in places of worship.
These places can be quite moving, as in the case of Santa Maria di Trastevere. Covered in ornate 13th-century mosaics and incorporating elements from the Roman era, the church plays host almost every night to concerts of religious music. The quality of the choirs is excellent and the atmosphere is heavenly.
Another church, Basilica of Saint Clement, offers an amazing journey into history and serves as a reminder that Rome really wasn't built in a day. Excavations at the site found two floors below the church. The lowest level dates back to Roman times and the second one to the High Middle Ages.
In addition to the discovery of frescoes, on the Roman level searchers discovered an altar to the god Mithras (who had a large following around the time of Christ) and even a spring of groundwater that is still active. The tours down into the lower levels feel like you're descending into the belly of Rome.
These are only a few examples of the many discoveries that await those who take the time to go exploring in the Eternal City.
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IF YOU GO
To the Eternal City
When to go: Spring or Fall. Summer is too hot.
Getting around: All those archaeological remains have limited the subway network to just two lines. Buses work well but watch out for pickpockets on routes popular with tourists.
Travel information: Check out packages from Air Canada or Air Transat or if booking lodging direct, see Venere.com for apartment accommodations or monasterystays.com for options in monasteries.
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