Orleans kicks off Carnival

NEW ORLEANS - Roll out the king cakes, plastic beads and Mardi Gras masks. Carnival season has begun in New Orleans.

Jan. 6, the 12th night on the biblical calendar, marked the beginning of the 153rd annual pre-Lenten celebration. Before it wraps up Feb. 24, almost 100 parades will have rolled in the area and thousands of riders will have thrown tonnes of glitzy gee-gaws to what organizers hope will be huge crowds.

"The celebration is pretty local for a couple of weeks," said Mardi Gras historian Errol Laborde. "But the parades kick in just before the end of the month, and then it's pretty much nonstop."

Mayor Ray Nagin acknowledged the start of the season with the city's annual king cake party, slicing up dozens of pastries covered with purple, green and gold icing, and each holding a tiny, plastic baby. Tradition has it that the person getting the baby in their slice of cake must supply the next king cake.

King cakes, believed to have originated in France around the 12th century, are eaten throughout Carnival season, but on 12th night, or the Feast of the Epiphany, they mark the arrival of the three wise men bearing gifts 12 days after Christmas.

In New Orleans, with its tourism-oriented economy, the rowdy celebration represents both fun and business.

"This is a time of year when everybody can kind of get together and do their own thing and make money at the same time," Nagin said. "So we're looking forward to it."

Unlike last year, when the NBA All-Star game and the Bowl Championship Series title game were added to the city's usual lineup of the Bayou Classic, New Orleans Bowl, and Sugar Bowl, this year Mardi Gras will stand as the solitary big money draw between the Sugar Bowl and Jazz Fest.

A study by a Tulane University economist in 2000 showed a steady growth in Mardi Gras attendance and spending over a decade. Although that dropped after hurricane Katrina in 2005, the event has been rebuilding since then.

Mardi Gras generates more than US$1 billion in spending each year, said Mary Beth Romig of the Greater New Orleans Visitors and Convention Bureau.

Similar but smaller celebrations are held along the French-influenced Gulf Coast.

Despite the financial downturn nationally and a sluggish tourism economy, hotel bookings for Mardi Gras are ahead of last year's pace, said Mavis Early, executive director of the Greater New Orleans Hotel and Lodging Association.

"We are very happy with Mardi Gras bookings to date, and we expect to have the best year yet since Katrina," Early said.

Billed as the "Greatest Free Show on Earth," there is no charge to those attending the parades, but for those riding on the floats, the cost can be high. The riders shoulder the cost of all "throws" - the strings of beads, toys and trinkets showered on crowds along the parade route.

At Randazzo's Camellia City Bakery, one of more than a dozen bakeries that ship king cakes nationally and internationally, orders for king cakes began coming in before Christmas, said saleswoman Cindi Picou, and will continue through "Fat Tuesday."

"We'll send out more than 2,000 cakes in the next few weeks," Picou said Tuesday.

As the season kicked off Jan. 6, the group Phunny Phorty Phellows was scheduled to take its traditional streetcar ride up St. Charles Avenue, signalling the official start of the season.

The Phorty Phellows, an historic Mardi Gras organization, this year was hosting the king and queen of Zulu, the traditional black Carnival organization that is celebrating its 100th anniversary.

"The Phorty Phellows is a low-key event," Laborde said. "It's just one streetcar full of people, but there are people along the route who set up tables and have buffets and champagne to mark the passing. It's a symbol of the opening of the season."

Rendezvous with history

PANAMA -- Before sunrise, hundreds of sleepy passengers begin to gather on the forward decks of the Zuiderdam to watch the ship's progress into the first set of locks at the Panama Canal.

Pink-edged clouds hover low in the sky and threaten to soak those who rose early to witness the spectacle. Even at 6:30 a.m., it's hot and the humidity is oppressive.

The heavy air is abuzz with anticipation. For many people, this is the main event, the highlight of Holland America Line's 10-night Southern Caribbean & Panama Canal Sunfarer Cruise, which makes a partial transit of the canal from the Caribbean, through the locks into Gatun Lake and back.

Each year, almost 15,000 ships -- from private yachts to enormous freighters to cruise ships -- routinely pass between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans through these locks.

A complete transit of the locks from ocean to ocean takes about eight to 10 hours, during which time three sets of double locks raise ships 25.9 metres (about eight storeys) above sea level, carry them across the Continental Divide and lower them back down to sea level on the other side.

While it's a routine procedure today, building the 77-km shipping route is the stuff of legend. Christopher Columbus was the first of many to envision such a link, says Zuiderdam travel guide Dr. Richard Detrich.

An ex-pat American, a few years ago Detrich and his wife retired to a small coffee farm in Panama's Chiriqui Mountains. The author, motivational speaker and former minister is passionate about his adopted homeland, its history and its culture. He loves sharing his passion with passengers during entertaining lectures and informal "chats" around the ship.

Detrich says visionaries could see that building a canal across the narrow S-shaped Isthmus of Panama would eliminate the need for merchant ships to make the treacherous journey around Cape Horn, off the tip of South America, and shave thousands of kilometres and considerable expense off the voyage between the two oceans.

But the idea remained a dream for centuries.

Starting in 1881, the French were the first to attempt to dig a canal through the dense rainforest of the Isthmus. Massive landslides, heat and diseases such as malaria and yellow fever claimed the lives of some 21,900 workers before the project was abandoned.

In the early 1900s the United States -- under U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt -- took over the project, which would claim another 5,600 souls before the completed canal opened its locks to international trade on Aug. 15, 1914.

As the Zuiderdam waits for its turn to enter the Gatun Lock, there is informative commentary from the bridge and a mimosa toast on deck. Panama rolls and hot chocolate are also served.

Passengers who want to immerse themselves in the canal experience can sign up for a shore tour that will take them to an excellent visitor centre at the Miraflores locks.

For many people on board, the canal is the primary reason for selecting this itinerary. But the 10-day cruise provides many other diversions as well.

Sailing roundtrip out of Fort Lauderdale, Fla., the Zuiderdam also makes port calls at Half Moon Cay in the Bahamas, the islands of Aruba and Curacao -- part of the Netherlands Antilles -- and Puerto Limon, Costa Rica.

Each stop has it's own personality and its own allure.

During our cruise, windy weather made it impossible for us to stop at Half Moon Cay so we were treated to a pool party on board instead. But in general, the Bahamas have some of the best beaches in the Caribbean making Half Moon Cay -- Holland America's private island -- ideal for a lazy day beach day with lots of tall cool fruity beverages and frothy novels.

In Aruba, passengers can hit one of many great beaches, take shore trips -- diving, snorkelling, windsurfing, jeep tours etc. -- or exercise their credit cards in Oranjestad.

Aruba, like Curacao, has historical links to the Netherlands. Visitors will find reproduction Dutch-style buildings painted in pretty pastels and Dutch-style souvenirs, but the ambiance is more Caribbean with a touch of Europe.

In Curacao, Willemstad, is a charming port. Its historical city centre -- some 750 authentic Dutch colonial buildings with unique Caribbean touches such as brightly coloured facades, wooden shutters and verandahs -- are designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Like many Dutch towns, Willemstad's narrow streets lead to leafy squares. And there is a mix of cultural influences -- including African, West Indies and Spanish. But the vibe is distinctly South American, probably owing to the island's proximity to Venezuela 65 km away.

Along the waterfront in the Punda area, Venezuelan merchants sell fresh produce and fish from small boats.

A walk across the floating pontoon bridge takes you to Otrobanda (the other side) and more historical buidings. A huge section of the former Kura Hulanda slum has been rehabilitated into a historical area and the Rif Fort has been transformed into a picturesque cobblestoned pedestrian shopping and dining area.

Our last port stop before sailing for Florida is Puerto Limon. Costa Ricans have embraced eco-tourism and the country offers many opportunities for visitors to take in its natural beauty. We opt for the Caribbean Train, Eco-cruise and Countryside excursion that combines a boat trip up the Tortuguero canal for wildlife viewing and a steam train ride to a banana plantation.

Known as the "Amazon" of Costa Rica, lush rainforest lines both sides of the canal. While gliding across the still water on the canal boat, our guide points out sloths hanging from trees, teeny tiny tree bats, ferocious sounding howler monkeys, tropical birds, and lizards and iguanas that blend so well with their surroundings they are almost invisible, proving the guide's point that there are 300 shades of green in the rainforest.

During the train ride to the banana plantation we stop along a beautiful stretch of beach that looks as if it has been untouched by humans.

Before reboarding the Zuiderdam, we stroll around the little market at the port. There's an excellent selection of Costa Rican coffee and locally made jewelry. A makeshift salon offers mini massages for tired passengers.

Fortunately there are two sea days left to recuperate before we dock in Fort Lauderdale and have to face up to the reality of a Toronto winter.

Back on board, there's lots to do: Dining in the Pinnacle Grill -- where both the food and the service rival that of many restaurants on land -- relaxing over afternoon tea -- both Dutch and Indonesian style -- indulging in the midnight dessert buffet, and attending a cooking demonstration in the slick Culinary Arts Centre (you'll feel like you are in the audience of a TV food show).

And, contrary to urban legend, there are cruise activities that don't involve eating.

The thermal suite at the Greenhouse spa has a hydrotherapy pool, sauna, aromatherapy room and heated ceramic loungers that face out to sea -- calorie free and tres relaxing.

The evening shows have been taken up several notches with elaborate sets and costumes by fashion-designer-to-the-stars Bob Mackie.

And even though it's only two days, there is still time to relax on the deck of our verandah suite and take in the simple pleasures of life at sea.

---

BOTTOMLINE

CRUISES

This winter, Zuiderdam will be sailing a 10-day Southern Caribbean & Panama Canal Cruise itinerary through April 8. The cruises resume Oct. 14 for the balance of 2009.

Sample fares for this itinerary listed on Holland America's website start from $890 for an inside cabin, $995 for an ocean view cabin, $1,258 for a verandah cabin, and $1,888.95 for a suite. The cruise only fares are per person and based on double occupancy. For details, see hollandamerica.com.

PANAMA CANAL

For more on the Panama Canal, including the Miraflores Visitor Center, visit the Panama Canal Authority website at panamacanal.com.

FLIGHTS

Several airlines fly direct to Fort Lauderdale from Toronto's Pearson International Airport.

Beach bums on wheels

There are few spots in the U.S. that can make a teenager's eyes pop wider than the beach scene in Los Angeles. From its California skaters and surfer girls to its basketball courts and bike parks, the enormous strand of white sand along the Gold Coast from Santa Monica to Venice and beyond sees a lot of outrageous, trend-starting action.

One of the most interactive ways to experience it first hand is on a bike -- available for rent at beachside kiosks by Legends Beach Bike Tours and Rentals. For about $35 per person, you can rent practically any type of bike on the market, or upgrade to an eye-opening guided bike tour.

Our tour was led by company owner Richard Chacker, a self-described SoCal (Southern California) beach bum and ex-hippie who, after years of beachside debauchery, turned his beach hangout into a lucrative business.

A typical tour starts at the enormous Santa Monica Pier, which juts into the ocean so far it has space for a ferris wheel and carousel. Chacker points north toward Malibu to the beach beyond where Pamela Anderson and David Hasselhof shook their booties on Baywatch.

38-KM OF PATH

The cycling tour then heads south. There's 38 km of path total -- Chacker says it's the longest continuous paved trail in America -- leading from Santa Monica, past Venice, Manhattan and Hermosa Beaches all the way down to Torrance Beach. The most popular stretch is the 11 km between Santa Monica and Marina Del Rey -- the birthplace of many a hot trend.

"This is where surfing got its start in America," says Chacker. The modern version of lifeguarding and beach volleyball started on this stretch of beach, too -- there are dozens of sand courts full of buff players at all times of the day. And it's in the parking lots behind Santa Monica Beach that inline skating began. The home of Dogtown and Z Boys and their skateboard culture is not far from the pier.

Just south of the Santa Monica Pier is Muscle Beach, which from 1934 to 1958 was as big in America as surfing and skating are now. It was the start of the fitness craze and the infamous hangout of bodybuilders like Joe Gold (of Gold's Gym) and Arnold Schwarzenegger.

Santa Monica is also the home of more than 85 art galleries. Says Chacker: "Locals consider Santa Monica to be the cultural centre of L.A."

Inland slightly from Venice Beach are the meandering canals that inspired this location's name back in 1820.

VENICE OF AMERICA

It's worth hopping off the bike and strolling along the canals, if only to peek at the bohemian houses that line the shores, with their little docks, kayaks and paddle boats parked out front.

They say Julia Roberts lives here somewhere, along with many other celebs.

For details on bike rentals along L.A.'s Gold Coast or the Legends Beach Bike Tour, visit perryscafe.com.

Kangaroo country

SYDNEY, Australia -- Can you visit Down Under without the cost going up and over? Too right, mate.

Australia is a long way from just about everywhere else and the airfare alone will blow a big hole in any travel budget. But in Sydney, the country's largest city and one of its major drawcards, some of the best things to do and see are free, or nearly so.

THE HARBOUR

From the landmark Sydney Opera House and the harbour bridge to towering skyscrapers, parks and multimillion-dollar mansions, Sydney huddles around the glittering azure waters of Port Jackson.

The best way to see it all is by boat, though a charter cruise can cost thousands. Instead, take one of the ferries that shuffle workers to and from downtown each day,

From Circular Quay, ride past the opera house, the former prison island of Fort Denison and some of the city's most exclusive properties (ask a local if they can point out Russell Crowe's apartment at Woolloomooloo) to Watson's Bay for about $4.30 return, sydneyferries.info.

Buy takeout fish and chips on the wharf and brave the seagulls on the small beach before retiring to the Watson's Bay Hotel beer garden -- watsonsbayhotel.com.au/ -- to watch the sun set over the city skyline.

THE ICONS

The white sails that form the roof of the Sydney Opera House -- sydneyoperahouse.com -- make it one of the world's most recognizable buildings, and one of the greatest meldings of architecture and art. You can take a guided tour of the interior for about $23 and hear the tragedy-tinged story of architect Joern Utzon's masterpiece. But the real appeal is the exterior, and it costs nothing to look. The thickest crowds are at dusk, when kids run up and slide down parts of the building and people mill around the steps.

From there, it's impossible to miss the Sydney Harbour Bridge, known as "The Coathanger." Guided climbs to the apex are very popular, but prices start at about $149 -- bridgeclimb.com. But you can walk across it at street level for nothing and still get a look at the opera house and the harbour.

THE BEACH

Bondi Beach, one of dozens that cut into the cliffs along Sydney's coast, is one of the world's most famous. During summer, thousands vie for space in the sand. In winter, latte-slurpers huddle behind glass windows or under gas-fired heaters in the cafes and restaurants along the strip.

Sydney's rail network doesn't quite reach Bondi, but a train and bus "Link Ticket" will get you from Central Railway Station right to the promenade for about $6.50 return, cityrail.info.

When you're done with the sun, hit the Bondi Icebergs club -- icebergs.com.au -- for a cold beer, pub-style food and stunning views. If the traditional southerly afternoon buster (a stiff wind) is bringing in a storm, there are few places better to watch thunderheads roll in from the sea. The south end of Bondi marks the start of a walking path along a spectacular coastline of sheer rock cliffs and beaches to Coogee about 6 km away.

FOOD

Sydney's multicultural makeup is reflected in its food, from tapas at Captain Torres, 73 Liverpool St., or other eateries in the Spanish Quarter to falafel and creamy tadziki at Abdul's, at Cleveland and Elizabeth streets in Surry Hills. On Goulbourn St. in Chinatown, the unpretentious BBQ King offers some of the best Chinese food outside of Asia. Go early or be prepared to wait.

ACCOMMODATION

Sydney's tourist districts are dotted with hostel and backpacker-style accommodation. See yha.com.au for listings. Or try an Internet site such as wotif.com and needitnow.com.au, which offer deals on late-notice hotel bookings. For real local flavour, gumtree.com.au lists short-term rentals of Sydneysiders' homes.

Canada's best hotels

Canada's finest luxury hotel experiences are as diverse as the country itself, featuring historic city hotels, island retreats and mountain ski lodges. They reach literally high and low—from the Canadian Rockies to the Pacific shoreline—while stretching from Vieux Québec to Vancouver Island. You'll find the finest of them on this year's list of Canada's 10 Best Hotels, an honor roll of luxury properties chosen by the Forbes Traveler 400 board of experts, who gathered to determine the world's finest luxury hotels and resorts.

We'll begin, as French colonial settlers did, with the city of Québec, starting with the Hotel Dominion 1912 in the city's original Old Port district. The neighborhood itself visibly mixes four centuries of tradition while reflecting a distinctly 21st-century sensibility. Art galleries, cafés and specialty boutiques line some of the city's most historic streets—and this boutique hotel, described by one Forbes Traveler expert as "charming, with a perfect location," reflects much the same vibe, mixing classic 1912 iron and stone architecture with modern design and high-end amenities.

See our slideshow of Canada's 10 Best Hotels.

Montreal's Old Town is the home of the Hotel Le St-James, a restored 1870 landmark building that once housed the city's largest bank. The Hotel Le St-James was praised by several experts as "wonderful" and having "excellent service." The top end here is a 3,500-square-foot apartment suite whose private 1,500-square-foot terrace has exceptional city views. For a bit of extra luxury, the hotel maintains a Rolls-Royce Phantom, a Bentley Continental and a Mayback 57S, all available for airport transfers or private city tours.

The Four Seasons Toronto is one of the top business hotels in Canada's top business city, located in trendy Yorkville just outside the central commercial district. In addition to the level of comfort and elegance that Four Seasons has helped standardize worldwide, guests will also find a 24-hour business center with computers, mobile phones and secretarial services available. The highlight here is Truffles, a spacious French contemporary restaurant among the city's best. Also in Yorkville, the Windsor Arms is a splendid all-suite boutique hotel whose cold Victorian architecture belies its warm interiors and up-to-date style. A favorite of visiting artists and musicians, the Windsor Arms ("a hidden gem," in the words of one Forbes Traveler expert) also offers high tea in a French-style tea room and an excellent steakhouse.

The Canadian Rockies are represented by the Fairmont Banff Springs, where golf, skiing and the stunning beauty of the mountains themselves are celebrated in a huge 770-unit structure modeled on a Scottish baronial castle. Your body will get a workout here, whether on the slopes, on the links in the 38,000-square-foot Willow Stream spa—one of the finest in the country. Spring for a room with a mountain view, breathe the crisp mountain air for a few days and enjoy the fleeting thoughts of never leaving.

See our slideshow of Canada's 10 Best Hotels.

World-class skiing is also on tap at the two of the hotels on this list. Whistler's trails were chosen to host alpine skiing events for the 2010 Winter Olympics, and both the stylish Four Seasons Whistler and the larger Fairmont Chateau Whistler offer high-end accommodation while you're carving your way through some of the world's finest powder. The Fairmont Chateau has better access to Blackcomb, but the Four Seasons takes a slight edge for service. Both hotels offer quality spa and dining facilities, multiple whirlpools and similar amenities; both hotels were also described by different Forbes Traveler experts as having Whistler's "best location." Your choice will come down to personal preference.

On Vancouver Island, the Sooke Harbour House was the clear choice in the British Columbia capital of Victoria. Located on Whiffen Spit Beach, where seals, otters and passing whales are not uncommon, and facing the Olympic mountains across the Juan de Fuca Strait, each of the 28 rooms features a woodburning fireplace, antique furnishings and a private terrace or balcony with dramatic ocean views. The restaurant grows its own vegetables and herbs in a nearby garden, and the wine list is one of the country's best. Further outside the city, the Wickaninnish Inn in Tofino hugs the western edge of the island through wind, rain, and long winter nights—all the better for enjoying the warmth and comfort of the Ancient Cedars Spa.

Finally, in the city of Vancouver, the Opus Hotel is a youthful 96-unit boutique property in the fashionable Yaletown district, walking distance from the city's business district and wobbling distance from some of Vancouver's best watering holes. (A complimentary car service is available in case you need to go elsewhere downtown.) Guestrooms are designed in five distinct flavors, ranging from clean lines to funky, vibrant colors; amenities are top-shelf; and the business, fitness, food and concierge services target savvy urban professionals with eclectic tastes and unpredictable work hours.

There's no one thread that connects all ten Canadian properties on this year's Forbes Traveler list—but in a country like Canada, where multiculturalism and a broad diversity of lifestyles is celebrated as a strength, that's entirely appropriate.

Perfect vacation homes

SAN FRANCISCO, Mexico - My cousin booked an amazing wedding at the adventure resort Costa Azul, in the tiny Mexican village of San Francisco about a half hour north of Puerto Vallarta.

The town was perfect: cobblestone streets, a beach known for its surfing, turtle releases at sunset.

There was only one catch: Costa Azul wasn't a big resort and it was booked solid within hours of her save-the-date email. For guests still looking for a place to stay, there were only a couple other small hotel options in town and they were rapidly filling up.

Costa Azul suggested renting one of the town's many beach houses, so I turned to the website http://www.vrbo.com and quickly found a four-bedroom that could easily fit my family, my sister's family, my mom and two more cousins.

It was the perfect option. With a full kitchen, our meals weren't subject to the whim of the hotel restaurant, especially when it came to the demands of two toddlers who preferred boxed mac-and-cheese over fish tacos.

Everyone had their own room and bathroom. No bunking up. No fighting over who got to shower first before the wedding.

And, with a full house, it turned out to be a cheaper and more flexible option than most hotels.

We could hang out with the wedding guests at Costa Azul's pool, or wander home and relax with homemade margaritas on our rooftop terrace overlooking the ocean.

As spring break approaches, vacation homes can be a great alternative to large, impersonal resorts, especially for big groups or those who prefer a home-away-from-home setting.

But it may not be the right choice for vacationers who want to be spoiled. There are no waiters prowling poolside, waiting to take your food and drink order and bring it to you directly. Maid service may only be once or twice a week. And you can't dial reception and have them book a massage for you later in the afternoon at the in-house spa.

But there are definite advantages, especially for:

BIG GROUPS: Everyone can easily stay in the same place, and it is usually cheaper than a hotel, both in terms of nightly rates and food. If you don't feel like cooking, some houses recommend local people who will come and cook for you - for a small fee that is still usually far cheaper than eating out. For large families, vacation homes can be a great alternative to squeezing into the same hotel room together or sending your kids to an adjoining room where it's hard to keep an eye on them. It's a great option for church or school groups planning ski or beach adventures.

THE HOME-AWAY-FROM-HOME CROWD: Do you have special dietary needs, or maybe you're just an early riser who grows impatient waiting for the hotel kitchen to set up brunch? Or do you want to spend a month this winter living somewhere warm but can't afford a second home? A vacation rental gives you a chance to set up a home-away-from-home. Our Mexican beach house not only had a full kitchen, but books, games and DVDs.

THE OFF-THE-BEATEN-PATH CROWD: Don't want the resort to dictate your vacation? Instead of having the amenities right outside your door, you can explore and find your own entertainment, restaurants and spas. If you find yourself really missing the hotel life, most resorts will let you drop in for the day and use their facilities, as long as you spend a minimum amount on food and drink. Many vacation rentals also include insider tips on local sites. The owners of our rental home in Mexico, Americans Bill and Wendy Flint, sent us an email with pages of great local advice, including good restaurants, recommended day trips, and even what to expect in terms of pesos versus dollars.

GOTTA DOG?: Vacation home rentals often accept dogs and cats, for those who want to bring the family pet along. Just double-check that the listing is "pet friendly." That can be invaluable, especially overseas. While a growing number of U.S. hotels will accept pets, most resorts in Mexico won't allow them. But make sure to check legal requirements at your destination before bringing pets. Mexico, Canada and even Hawaii all have different regulations on proof of vaccinations for dogs and other requirements.

You don't have to go to the beach to enjoy rental homes. You can find them almost anywhere. In Mexico alone, you can rent a penthouse apartment in Mexico City's historic centre or stay at a house from the colonial area in the quaint town of San Miguel de Allende.

Here are some tips for finding the right house and what to expect.

HOW TO FIND A HOUSE: http://www.vrbo.com is a wonderful site with more than 110,000 homes all over the world. You rent directly from the owners.

BE PREPARED TO PAY IN ADVANCE: Many homes will require full payment ahead of your stay, and there's a good chance you won't be able to use your credit card. Ask for a contract, and be sure to get a receipt or some other kind of documentation for your payments. Make sure you know whether you can get a refund in case you have to cancel.

TRANSPORTATION AND FOOD: Rental homes can be off the beaten path, so be sure to ask whether you need to rent a car or whether there are local options like taxi services. Also find out whether grocery stores, restaurants, gas stations and local recreation areas like beaches are within walking distance or if they require a car. If you want to cook at home, some rentals will offer to have a local contact stock your fridge and cupboards before you arrive, for a fee. Otherwise, your first stop after arriving at the airport should probably be the grocery store.

OTHER: Make sure the owners have someone available locally for you to call if you need help with a burst pipe, a dishwasher you can't figure out or overflowing garbage bins. If you have small children or folks in your group with mobility issues, ask about the layout and any stairs on the property. You may also want to ask about security for the home and the neighbourhood. And if you can't live without email, find out whether Internet service is included or is available nearby at a cafe or library.

Niagara's decadent icewines

They toast the New Year in an icy but sweet way in Niagara.

Thousands of wine aficionados will gather this month to hoist a "cool one" -- Canada's acclaimed icewine -- made from the nectar of frozen grapes. Starting Friday and continuing through Jan. 25, the Niagara Icewine Festival will offer winery tours, gala dinners, ornate ice bars, food and fun.

You can try icewine poured over ice cream at Strewn Winery or pair Vidal Icewine with truffled cream of cauliflower soup at Inniskillin Wines.

This internationally sought after wine is made from grapes pressed while frozen after being left on the vine until after the first frost with a temperature of at least -8C. The pressing yields a concentrated juice high in acids, sugars and aromatics that give icewine its distinctive taste.

Inniskillin began picking the first of the season's Chardonnay grapes for icewine on Dec. 8. Viticulture director Frank Hellwig produced his first limited Chardonnay Icewine a year ago with the 2007 vintage, aged in oak and set for release this spring.

Winter picking at Inniskillen takes places as early as Dec. 2 to as late as March 5. Most harvesting of the Vidal, Riesling and Cabernet Franc varieties occurs in early to mid-January.

"Mother Nature will do as she always does and keep us at her mercy waiting for the ideal time of picking for this extreme but unique Canadian winter harvest," said Bruce Nicholson, Inniskillin director of winemaking.

This 2008 vintage marks icewine's 25th anniversary, said Deborah Pratt, Inniskillin public relations manager.

Events at the 14th-annual festival will include Inniskillin food and wine pairings on Jan. 17-18 and Jan. 24-25, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. A sampling of Vidal Icewine paired with cauliflower soup will be offered ($10 or included with a festival passport). There's also an icewine discovery tour ($30 per person) to visit four stations throughout the winery.

Inniskillin's Cool Culinary Experience Dinner on Jan. 24 at 6:30 p.m. ($175, all inclusive) will be inspired by the winery's VQA (Vintner's Quality Alliance) wine and be capped with an apres icewine reception in the renovated Brae Burn Barn.

At Strewn, you can press some grapes and enjoy the Niagara Icewine Shake. The winery has developed a "thick, creamy icewine shake," which is available daily at the main tasting bar ($5 for a five-ounce serving). And on Jan. 17, winemaker Joe Will invites visitors to help harvest and press Gewurztraminer grapes then taste the fruits of their labours. Later, there will be a tasting of Strewn icewines and a gourmet lunch at Terroir La Cachette.

Wineries throughout Niagara will host events, tastings and tours throughout the festival. Highlights include:

- Icewine Gala, Fallsview Casino, Niagara Falls, Jan. 16 from 8 p.m. to 11 p.m. ($175). Wine from more than 30 of Ontario's top wineries will be showcased during "Canada's largest tasting" of icewines and premium wines. There will also be Niagara cuisine prepared by the Fallsview's Golden Lotus and 17 Noir plus entertainment.

- Twenty Valley Icewine Bar, Jordan Village, Jan. 17-18, noon to 5 p.m. (free admission). The village plans to host an "exciting outdoor icewine tasting and culinary experience" along with entertainment and ice carvings.

- Fallsview Casino Icewine Lounge in Niagara-on-the-Lake offers wine, food, ice carvings, demonstrations and shopping on Jan. 24 and 25, from noon to 6 p.m. (free admission).

IF YOU GO

A Niagara Icewine Discovery Pass ($30) provides access to special tours, food and wine pairings and more. It is valid on the weekends of Jan. 17-18 and Jan. 24-25 and is good for six "winery experiences." For details, contact grapeandwine.com or 1-905-688-0212. Contact Inniskillin Wines at inniskillin.com or 1-888-466-4754. For Strewn Winery, contact strewnwinery.com or 905-468-1229.