Pink-edged clouds hover low in the sky and threaten to soak those who rose early to witness the spectacle. Even at 6:30 a.m., it's hot and the humidity is oppressive.
The heavy air is abuzz with anticipation. For many people, this is the main event, the highlight of Holland America Line's 10-night Southern Caribbean & Panama Canal Sunfarer Cruise, which makes a partial transit of the canal from the Caribbean, through the locks into Gatun Lake and back.
Each year, almost 15,000 ships -- from private yachts to enormous freighters to cruise ships -- routinely pass between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans through these locks.
A complete transit of the locks from ocean to ocean takes about eight to 10 hours, during which time three sets of double locks raise ships 25.9 metres (about eight storeys) above sea level, carry them across the Continental Divide and lower them back down to sea level on the other side.
While it's a routine procedure today, building the 77-km shipping route is the stuff of legend. Christopher Columbus was the first of many to envision such a link, says Zuiderdam travel guide Dr. Richard Detrich.
An ex-pat American, a few years ago Detrich and his wife retired to a small coffee farm in Panama's Chiriqui Mountains. The author, motivational speaker and former minister is passionate about his adopted homeland, its history and its culture. He loves sharing his passion with passengers during entertaining lectures and informal "chats" around the ship.
Detrich says visionaries could see that building a canal across the narrow S-shaped Isthmus of Panama would eliminate the need for merchant ships to make the treacherous journey around Cape Horn, off the tip of South America, and shave thousands of kilometres and considerable expense off the voyage between the two oceans.
But the idea remained a dream for centuries.
Starting in 1881, the French were the first to attempt to dig a canal through the dense rainforest of the Isthmus. Massive landslides, heat and diseases such as malaria and yellow fever claimed the lives of some 21,900 workers before the project was abandoned.
In the early 1900s the United States -- under U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt -- took over the project, which would claim another 5,600 souls before the completed canal opened its locks to international trade on Aug. 15, 1914.
As the Zuiderdam waits for its turn to enter the Gatun Lock, there is informative commentary from the bridge and a mimosa toast on deck. Panama rolls and hot chocolate are also served.
Passengers who want to immerse themselves in the canal experience can sign up for a shore tour that will take them to an excellent visitor centre at the Miraflores locks.
For many people on board, the canal is the primary reason for selecting this itinerary. But the 10-day cruise provides many other diversions as well.
Sailing roundtrip out of Fort Lauderdale, Fla., the Zuiderdam also makes port calls at Half Moon Cay in the Bahamas, the islands of Aruba and Curacao -- part of the Netherlands Antilles -- and Puerto Limon, Costa Rica.
Each stop has it's own personality and its own allure.
During our cruise, windy weather made it impossible for us to stop at Half Moon Cay so we were treated to a pool party on board instead. But in general, the Bahamas have some of the best beaches in the Caribbean making Half Moon Cay -- Holland America's private island -- ideal for a lazy day beach day with lots of tall cool fruity beverages and frothy novels.
In Aruba, passengers can hit one of many great beaches, take shore trips -- diving, snorkelling, windsurfing, jeep tours etc. -- or exercise their credit cards in Oranjestad.
Aruba, like Curacao, has historical links to the Netherlands. Visitors will find reproduction Dutch-style buildings painted in pretty pastels and Dutch-style souvenirs, but the ambiance is more Caribbean with a touch of Europe.
In Curacao, Willemstad, is a charming port. Its historical city centre -- some 750 authentic Dutch colonial buildings with unique Caribbean touches such as brightly coloured facades, wooden shutters and verandahs -- are designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Like many Dutch towns, Willemstad's narrow streets lead to leafy squares. And there is a mix of cultural influences -- including African, West Indies and Spanish. But the vibe is distinctly South American, probably owing to the island's proximity to Venezuela 65 km away.
Along the waterfront in the Punda area, Venezuelan merchants sell fresh produce and fish from small boats.
A walk across the floating pontoon bridge takes you to Otrobanda (the other side) and more historical buidings. A huge section of the former Kura Hulanda slum has been rehabilitated into a historical area and the Rif Fort has been transformed into a picturesque cobblestoned pedestrian shopping and dining area.
Our last port stop before sailing for Florida is Puerto Limon. Costa Ricans have embraced eco-tourism and the country offers many opportunities for visitors to take in its natural beauty. We opt for the Caribbean Train, Eco-cruise and Countryside excursion that combines a boat trip up the Tortuguero canal for wildlife viewing and a steam train ride to a banana plantation.
Known as the "Amazon" of Costa Rica, lush rainforest lines both sides of the canal. While gliding across the still water on the canal boat, our guide points out sloths hanging from trees, teeny tiny tree bats, ferocious sounding howler monkeys, tropical birds, and lizards and iguanas that blend so well with their surroundings they are almost invisible, proving the guide's point that there are 300 shades of green in the rainforest.
During the train ride to the banana plantation we stop along a beautiful stretch of beach that looks as if it has been untouched by humans.
Before reboarding the Zuiderdam, we stroll around the little market at the port. There's an excellent selection of Costa Rican coffee and locally made jewelry. A makeshift salon offers mini massages for tired passengers.
Fortunately there are two sea days left to recuperate before we dock in Fort Lauderdale and have to face up to the reality of a Toronto winter.
Back on board, there's lots to do: Dining in the Pinnacle Grill -- where both the food and the service rival that of many restaurants on land -- relaxing over afternoon tea -- both Dutch and Indonesian style -- indulging in the midnight dessert buffet, and attending a cooking demonstration in the slick Culinary Arts Centre (you'll feel like you are in the audience of a TV food show).
And, contrary to urban legend, there are cruise activities that don't involve eating.
The thermal suite at the Greenhouse spa has a hydrotherapy pool, sauna, aromatherapy room and heated ceramic loungers that face out to sea -- calorie free and tres relaxing.
The evening shows have been taken up several notches with elaborate sets and costumes by fashion-designer-to-the-stars Bob Mackie.
And even though it's only two days, there is still time to relax on the deck of our verandah suite and take in the simple pleasures of life at sea.
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BOTTOMLINE
CRUISES
This winter, Zuiderdam will be sailing a 10-day Southern Caribbean & Panama Canal Cruise itinerary through April 8. The cruises resume Oct. 14 for the balance of 2009.
Sample fares for this itinerary listed on Holland America's website start from $890 for an inside cabin, $995 for an ocean view cabin, $1,258 for a verandah cabin, and $1,888.95 for a suite. The cruise only fares are per person and based on double occupancy. For details, see hollandamerica.com.
PANAMA CANAL
For more on the Panama Canal, including the Miraflores Visitor Center, visit the Panama Canal Authority website at panamacanal.com.
FLIGHTS
Several airlines fly direct to Fort Lauderdale from Toronto's Pearson International Airport.
