Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Spirited Traveller: Sipping in Vienna

Few go thirsty in the Austrian capital of Vienna. In addition to abundant wine and beer offerings, the city is famed for its rich café culture. But here's what many outsiders don't know: Many of these cafés segue from day to night, transforming from "coffee bar" to "martini bar".

Janin Nachtweh, a Vienna-based editor and project manager, susses out the best places for business travellers to caffeinate by day, and tipple by night (or vice versa, if so desired).

During the day, Onyx Bar, on the sixth floor of the Haas House, offers coffee and a top-notch view of St. Stephen's Cathedral. In the evening, lit with warm yellow light, the bar transforms into a people-watching delight, attracting politicians, actors, as well as "the odd international celebrity."

And the drinks? "The extensive range of bar drinks leaves nothing to be desired, not even with the most unusual request," Nachtweh says.

Sky Bar, within the Steffl Department Store, has a similar split personality. During the day, a continuous wall of windows encourages shoppers to linger over cappuccinos (or strawberry daiquiris) at Sky Cafe, which offers a panoramic view of the city's old centre. But at 6pm, the café closes, and across the corridor the chic rooftop Sky Bar opens. Drink options include more than 350 cocktails and 80 different whiskeys.

In addition, the modern and urbane Café Leopold, situated in the middle of the Museum Quarter, is more than just a coffee house. Architecturally, the café is part of the Leopold Museum and during the day weary culture-vultures rest over coffee, cake and "new Viennese cuisine." After dark, the tables are shoved aside making space for DJs and a dance floor, and the art extends to trippy light displays on the walls and gimlets in the glass.

For "the last drink of the night," Nachtweh advises heading to the "sophisticated" Loos American Bar. The small venue was designed in 1908 by architect Adolf Loos after a trip stateside. Inside, the dark interior, furnished in marble, onyx and wood, barmen serve up six kinds of martinis and five Manhattans. But Loos is the exception to the day/night rule: It doesn't open until 5pm, so best seek your afternoon espresso elsewhere.

RECIPE: Havana Sunset - Created by Loos Bar barman, Milen Mikolv

4 cl Havana Club Rum

1 cl Martini Rosso (sweet/red vermouth)

1 cl Martini Dry (dry/white vermouth)

6-7 cl Pineapple Juice

1 cl Grenadine

Combine all ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake vigorously, and strain into a tall glass with fresh ice. Optional garnish: Pineapple wedge.