Saturday, January 17, 2009

Niagara's decadent icewines

They toast the New Year in an icy but sweet way in Niagara.

Thousands of wine aficionados will gather this month to hoist a "cool one" -- Canada's acclaimed icewine -- made from the nectar of frozen grapes. Starting Friday and continuing through Jan. 25, the Niagara Icewine Festival will offer winery tours, gala dinners, ornate ice bars, food and fun.

You can try icewine poured over ice cream at Strewn Winery or pair Vidal Icewine with truffled cream of cauliflower soup at Inniskillin Wines.

This internationally sought after wine is made from grapes pressed while frozen after being left on the vine until after the first frost with a temperature of at least -8C. The pressing yields a concentrated juice high in acids, sugars and aromatics that give icewine its distinctive taste.

Inniskillin began picking the first of the season's Chardonnay grapes for icewine on Dec. 8. Viticulture director Frank Hellwig produced his first limited Chardonnay Icewine a year ago with the 2007 vintage, aged in oak and set for release this spring.

Winter picking at Inniskillen takes places as early as Dec. 2 to as late as March 5. Most harvesting of the Vidal, Riesling and Cabernet Franc varieties occurs in early to mid-January.

"Mother Nature will do as she always does and keep us at her mercy waiting for the ideal time of picking for this extreme but unique Canadian winter harvest," said Bruce Nicholson, Inniskillin director of winemaking.

This 2008 vintage marks icewine's 25th anniversary, said Deborah Pratt, Inniskillin public relations manager.

Events at the 14th-annual festival will include Inniskillin food and wine pairings on Jan. 17-18 and Jan. 24-25, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. A sampling of Vidal Icewine paired with cauliflower soup will be offered ($10 or included with a festival passport). There's also an icewine discovery tour ($30 per person) to visit four stations throughout the winery.

Inniskillin's Cool Culinary Experience Dinner on Jan. 24 at 6:30 p.m. ($175, all inclusive) will be inspired by the winery's VQA (Vintner's Quality Alliance) wine and be capped with an apres icewine reception in the renovated Brae Burn Barn.

At Strewn, you can press some grapes and enjoy the Niagara Icewine Shake. The winery has developed a "thick, creamy icewine shake," which is available daily at the main tasting bar ($5 for a five-ounce serving). And on Jan. 17, winemaker Joe Will invites visitors to help harvest and press Gewurztraminer grapes then taste the fruits of their labours. Later, there will be a tasting of Strewn icewines and a gourmet lunch at Terroir La Cachette.

Wineries throughout Niagara will host events, tastings and tours throughout the festival. Highlights include:

- Icewine Gala, Fallsview Casino, Niagara Falls, Jan. 16 from 8 p.m. to 11 p.m. ($175). Wine from more than 30 of Ontario's top wineries will be showcased during "Canada's largest tasting" of icewines and premium wines. There will also be Niagara cuisine prepared by the Fallsview's Golden Lotus and 17 Noir plus entertainment.

- Twenty Valley Icewine Bar, Jordan Village, Jan. 17-18, noon to 5 p.m. (free admission). The village plans to host an "exciting outdoor icewine tasting and culinary experience" along with entertainment and ice carvings.

- Fallsview Casino Icewine Lounge in Niagara-on-the-Lake offers wine, food, ice carvings, demonstrations and shopping on Jan. 24 and 25, from noon to 6 p.m. (free admission).

IF YOU GO

A Niagara Icewine Discovery Pass ($30) provides access to special tours, food and wine pairings and more. It is valid on the weekends of Jan. 17-18 and Jan. 24-25 and is good for six "winery experiences." For details, contact grapeandwine.com or 1-905-688-0212. Contact Inniskillin Wines at inniskillin.com or 1-888-466-4754. For Strewn Winery, contact strewnwinery.com or 905-468-1229.