Monday, January 19, 2009

Kangaroo country

SYDNEY, Australia -- Can you visit Down Under without the cost going up and over? Too right, mate.

Australia is a long way from just about everywhere else and the airfare alone will blow a big hole in any travel budget. But in Sydney, the country's largest city and one of its major drawcards, some of the best things to do and see are free, or nearly so.

THE HARBOUR

From the landmark Sydney Opera House and the harbour bridge to towering skyscrapers, parks and multimillion-dollar mansions, Sydney huddles around the glittering azure waters of Port Jackson.

The best way to see it all is by boat, though a charter cruise can cost thousands. Instead, take one of the ferries that shuffle workers to and from downtown each day,

From Circular Quay, ride past the opera house, the former prison island of Fort Denison and some of the city's most exclusive properties (ask a local if they can point out Russell Crowe's apartment at Woolloomooloo) to Watson's Bay for about $4.30 return, sydneyferries.info.

Buy takeout fish and chips on the wharf and brave the seagulls on the small beach before retiring to the Watson's Bay Hotel beer garden -- watsonsbayhotel.com.au/ -- to watch the sun set over the city skyline.

THE ICONS

The white sails that form the roof of the Sydney Opera House -- sydneyoperahouse.com -- make it one of the world's most recognizable buildings, and one of the greatest meldings of architecture and art. You can take a guided tour of the interior for about $23 and hear the tragedy-tinged story of architect Joern Utzon's masterpiece. But the real appeal is the exterior, and it costs nothing to look. The thickest crowds are at dusk, when kids run up and slide down parts of the building and people mill around the steps.

From there, it's impossible to miss the Sydney Harbour Bridge, known as "The Coathanger." Guided climbs to the apex are very popular, but prices start at about $149 -- bridgeclimb.com. But you can walk across it at street level for nothing and still get a look at the opera house and the harbour.

THE BEACH

Bondi Beach, one of dozens that cut into the cliffs along Sydney's coast, is one of the world's most famous. During summer, thousands vie for space in the sand. In winter, latte-slurpers huddle behind glass windows or under gas-fired heaters in the cafes and restaurants along the strip.

Sydney's rail network doesn't quite reach Bondi, but a train and bus "Link Ticket" will get you from Central Railway Station right to the promenade for about $6.50 return, cityrail.info.

When you're done with the sun, hit the Bondi Icebergs club -- icebergs.com.au -- for a cold beer, pub-style food and stunning views. If the traditional southerly afternoon buster (a stiff wind) is bringing in a storm, there are few places better to watch thunderheads roll in from the sea. The south end of Bondi marks the start of a walking path along a spectacular coastline of sheer rock cliffs and beaches to Coogee about 6 km away.

FOOD

Sydney's multicultural makeup is reflected in its food, from tapas at Captain Torres, 73 Liverpool St., or other eateries in the Spanish Quarter to falafel and creamy tadziki at Abdul's, at Cleveland and Elizabeth streets in Surry Hills. On Goulbourn St. in Chinatown, the unpretentious BBQ King offers some of the best Chinese food outside of Asia. Go early or be prepared to wait.

ACCOMMODATION

Sydney's tourist districts are dotted with hostel and backpacker-style accommodation. See yha.com.au for listings. Or try an Internet site such as wotif.com and needitnow.com.au, which offer deals on late-notice hotel bookings. For real local flavour, gumtree.com.au lists short-term rentals of Sydneysiders' homes.