Tuesday, March 30, 2010

The scents of Spice Island

For Canadians accustomed to cold winters and short days for several months of the year, dreams of a luxury holiday on a warm, sunny beach are common.

Some fulfill the dream with discount holidays, others save up and pay full price, and a lucky few win their holiday in the sun.

Thanks to the Regis & Kelly TV show, my husband and I can count ourselves among the latter.

A week-long stay at a luxury beach resort in Grenada was a prize worth waiting for.

Although Bob did a nice job of describing Grenada in his columns, he really didn't say enough about Spice Island Beach Resort where we stayed. Don't get me wrong Grenada is really great; it's laid back and relaxed everything you have ever dreamt a tropical isle should be. The people are friendly and they speak English, Grenada was a British colony and they drive on the "wrong" side of the road. The mean temperature is a steady 28-30C year round and the humidity raises it to the high 30's. Everyone shakes your hand when they meet you -- no Obama knuckle bumps here -- I haven't shook hands that much ever. And the air really is scented with the aroma of nutmeg and other spices that grow on the island.

Although we arrived after 9:30 p.m., a quick ride from the airport to Spice Island Beach Resort cost us a mere $16 US. We were greeted at the car by a security guard who showed us to the main desk. The main desk is located in the middle of the large open to the breezes pavilions that comprise the main buildings of the resort that are open to the public. Only offices, kitchens and washrooms hide behind walls in the main building. After a day of flying, the breeze blowing in off the sea was almost as welcome as the fresh chilled fruit drinks we were served at the desk and the chilled damp towels to wipe off the travel grime.

There was a band entertaining guests in the middle patio area and although we were invited to join in the party we were beat after 13 hours of travel. After the formal welcome was out of the way we were escorted to our Sea Grape suite, it was quickly noted I was having mobility concerns and we were offered a suite nearer to the main building as soon as possible. Being tired we opted to change rooms come morning.

Even at night you could see the grounds were full of tropical foliage and flowers, we could hear the waves hitting the shore and got our first sight of the Caribbean as we walked to our room. We did slip out that night onto the private patio area each suite has for a few minutes of looking at the sea and at St. George's spread over the hills across the bay with the near full moon lighting up everything. We turned in for a great night's sleep on the most comfortable bed I've ever slept on. If I could have packed up the bed and pillows and brought them home I would have, they were that comfortable.

Early risers

Being early birds at home we were up bright and early for breakfast, so early we kind of surprised the morning dining room staff -- but the buffet was laid out ready to go and we were escorted to a prime table overlooking the beach. For me breakfast was the best meal of the day. I loved the selection of fresh baked goods and fruit. The buffet also featured meat and cheese selections, dry cereal, yogurt, various toppings for cereal, fresh fruit and juices. If the buffet didn't tempt, there was a cooked menu to choose from.

The fruits on offer are all local and the cantaloupe so sweet and fresh we almost weren't sure it was cantaloupe. Besides the great view of the bay and strollers on the beach we had little local black birds to entertain us each morning. They swoop in the moment anyone's back is turned and attempt to steal food from the diner's tables. They have a real fondness for Sweet and Low as they only plucked those from the condiment bowl on each table, never the sugar packets. The staff shoo the birds away and replace anything the birds touch but you can tell it's a game to the birds.

We also discovered nutmeg jam and jelly made right there in Grenada. It's a treat we were able to bring home a few jars of. Dark chocolate and nutmeg-based syrup are two other products made by the same local firm, as is a nutmeg based liqueur -- La Grenade. There are also several wonderful rums made on Grenada and tours of the plantations where local made products are produced or distilled are available.

The staff at Spice Island are phenomenal. I really can't praise them enough. They put the guests first and are amazing, their friendly smiles each morning set the tone for the whole day. They were always ready to answer our never ending questions, Bob being a reporter and me just being nosey we always had lots of questions from how Grenada produces it's electrical power to what made the small holes visible along the sidewalk outside the resort (small crabs by the way).

Back to our new room to unpack and don swimsuits. There's no having to wait for the day to warm up enough to swim or lounge outside as Grenada's climate is like a hot July day pretty much year round, even night time temperatures only dip to the mid 20 C at most.

After coming 5,300 kms we were eager to try the Caribbean and ignored the red flags and carefully walked into the water. The sea was maybe 20 steps from the patio door of our suite, we were right on Grand Anse Beach, rated one of the world's best beaches with fine white sand and it is never crowded. I'll admit that was our only try at swimming in the surf. I was quickly knocked off my feet, discovered I am very buoyant in salt water, got a mouth full of salt water and a bathing suit full of sand by the time I regained my feet after being pushed back onto the shore. Sadly, the red flags warning of strong surf flew the five days we were there and I didn't get brave enough to get beaten up by the surf again, besides Spice Island Resort has a wonderful saline swimming pool that we enjoyed every day.

We had our choice of loungers close to the surf and ones on our own patio. We made use of both as we moved in and out of the sun. Even being careful a few lightly coated or missed areas of skin burned the first day. But a shower using the resorts' Moulton Brown toiletries was very soothing.

The Sea Grape suite bathrooms are spa like with double jetted tubs, a large glass enclosed shower with rainfall shower head, a vanity with dual vessel sinks and a dual flush toilet to conserve water. Another feature is a large skylight and shutters that open into the bedroom area of the suite. The skylight allows you to view the passing clouds and at night the moon and stars. During the day it provides enough light for the whole suite. The suites are equipped with flat panel TV, DVD player, coffee pot, toaster and fridge. The fridge is stocked with bottled water, soda, juice, and mini-bar. It's checked daily and replenished, and is part of the all inclusive package for a stay at Spice Island.

The air-conditioned suites are very comfortable, roomy and clean. The private covered area outside had a table with two chairs and a wide lounge with pillows, a great place to curl up and watch the sea. Staff checks throughout the day if you want drinks or afternoon tea -- we enjoyed lunch a couple times on our patio.

Security patrols the grounds and beach area day and night so you are rarely bothered by beach peddlers and always feel safe. The sand areas are raked every few days and the grounds very well kept. The suites are equipped with safes so you have a secure place to store your wallet, purse and valuables. Unless you are venturing out to the nearby stores or to explore town you have no need of your wallet.

Fine dining

Back to food, the lunch and dinner menus are very different than what we are used to at home. Spice Island has a gourmet menu and a menu that reflects the British clientele that make up the bulk of their guests. But the one day that I asked for something simpler for lunch and dinner it was not a problem.

Supper at Oliver's -- the resort's main restaurant -- is a dining experience. There was always a feature of a local fish, meat dishes such as rabbit, lamb, chicken or beef, seafood, choice of chilled soup as well as hot, a vegetarian option and a lighter fare.

Dessert offers something great every night and there was an option of ice cream made on site in amazing flavours.

This is dining with all the flatware set up, and used or removed by the time you are done. Crisp linen tablecloths and napkins were laid out for every meal -- even if you ordered room service. The maitre 'd escorted every guest to his or her seat at every meal, followed by a waiter or waitress to take your order, a separate waiter for drink orders and another staff member to brush crumbs from the table between courses. It was fine dining at its finest, in other words nothing we are used to. But we coped, tried new foods and enjoyed the whole experience. Bob got to try a different fish every night. I was more cautious and opted for chicken or shrimp or lobster but never was anything served in huge portions and fresh vegetables were always part of the dish. We never left the table feeling hungry and were always amazed at the service and the presentation of the meal, all top notch.

Thursday was buffet night and the selection offered was amazing. No dish offered that night had been on the menu earlier in the week. I'm sure if Ruth Bowiec was there, she would have come home with menus and details, as well as a few recipes and could only marvel how much she would enjoy Spice Island. It was a wonderful treat to dine cooled by tropical breezes in the dining room open to the air. There were never any bugs even at night, the lights of St. George's twinkled across the bay and the moon glistened on the palm trees.

Spice Island is a quieter resort. They have live entertainment four or five nights a week, but never anything real loud nor any partying going on to the wee hours. Wednesday featured a pre-dinner cocktail party hosted by owner Sir Royston Hopkin and his family. All are very friendly and charming, making every guest feel special.

The other guests at the resort were mostly from Britain and also very friendly, more than a few were excited when they found out I had won our trip there. In an interesting coincidence, Louise Hendrick from New York City, who'd also won the same trip as us from the Live with Regis & Kelly show, had picked the same time as us for her stay.

While we were there the majority of guests were slightly older than us, but there were also a few young families with small children who seemed to have a great time. There was one guest in a wheelchair for whom a couple ramps were placed in the resort so he had access to everywhere. The staff was also always ready to help move his chair up and down ramps, with never a big fuss -- it was just all part of the great service.

Besides the great accommodation and dining there is a well stocked comfortable bar area. Just watch your step with the local rum punch -- it's high test!

Wine is offered at lunch and dinner and of course, anything you want from the bar.

Spice Island also has for guest use a computer in an air conditioned room off the lobby, a library conference room where you could sit and pass the day or borrow a book. There is an in-hotel boutique named Gatsby that sells a selection of appropriate clothing and swim suits. There are tennis courts and the resort also has arrangements with a nearby golf course -- green fees included in the resort's all-inclusive pricing; and with a dive centre -- where use of any non-motorized water craft and gear is at no charge to resort guests. Attached to the resort is Janissa's Spa that offers a full array of beauty and relaxation treatments, prices seemed to be reasonable. For the brave there are also bikes available.

Covered, open air areas of the resort offer plenty of comfortable areas to just sit and enjoy the warm breezes or watch fellow guests and staff go about the day. The smartly attired always friendly office/desk staff will help you book any side tours you might want and there are plenty to choose from. We opted for a tour of the town and area by cab one morning having decided we weren't up to negotiating the narrow roads along with coping with driving on the left-side of the road. After watching Vincent, our driver, manoeuvre through narrow intersections and traffic circles, I know we would have gotten very lost and caused accidents -- many, many accidents.

Vincent took us to see the Atlantic side of the island and drove through the crowded market area. The streets in the old part of town are very narrow and it is not hard to imagine horse drawn wagons going up and down the steep streets a hundred years ago.

Our last morning there we asked for a couple muffins to take with us on the plane and were of course packed a great selection of fruit as well as the muffins. Wake up calls came when promised and even the early morning staff were gracious to the end.

I can only hope we get the chance to someday return to Spice Island Beach Resort. I fear it has forever set a standard that will spoil us for any other resort. Spice Island Beach Resort lives up to all their pictures on their web site, what you see is really what you get. This was the dream trip to a tropical island I had long imagined and it was truly a dream come true. If you are looking for a place that is laid back, warm and comfortable look to Grenada and if you can, spend your time at Spice Island Beach Resort and let the staff spoil you too.

Mystery and Luxury in Bimini BayBMW S1000RR: 200 hp, 300 km/h, $17,300. Any questions?