Monday, March 1, 2010

Dallying around Darwin

DARWIN, AUSTRALIA -- Cycling down Gardens Rd., with sun-sparkled Fannie Bay beckoning on my left and the fountains and flora of George Brown Botanic to the right, it's hard to think of this idyllic scene once blotted by mass destruction.

Yet more bombs fell on Darwin and its waterfront in the initial Japanese raid of Feb. 19, 1942, than on Pearl Harbour three months earlier. And in that short span, the attackers had developed greater accuracy, wrecking key buildings and military installations as well as bringing the death toll to 243 civilians and Allied military personnel.

Only recently -- thanks in part to last year's epic Australia starring Nicole Kidman and Hugh Jackman -- has there been full disclosure of the raids, downplayed by officials for fear of hurting morale during the war.

So as much as visitors flock to Darwin's tropical beauty and fiery Timor Sea sunsets, you can still see scars from when this part of Oz bore the brunt of the Pacific war.

While showing us the Burnett House at Myilly Point, Steve Noble of Darwin Walking and Bike Tours points out the bullet holes that Japanese Zero fighters punched in the front gate as a calling card.

At the water's edge between Bicentennial Park and East Point is a memorial to all those killed in raids. There were more than 1,000 casualties here and throughout the Northern Territory before the tide turned in 1944.

A deck gun recovered from the destroyer USS Peary points to her final resting place in the harbour, sunk with the loss of 80 men in 1942.

Man-made devastation was trumped in 1974 when Cyclone Tracy scored a direct hit on Christmas Eve, with 71 people killed and $1 billion in damages.

SANDY BEACHES

Today, modern Darwin is a multicultural gateway to the Northern Territory or NT, the start of the north-south Stuart Hwy. A thriving nightlife, highlighted by the twice-weekly Mindil Beach Sunset Markets and the Deckchair Cinema under the stars, lures locals and tourists alike to the sandy beaches.

At kid-friendly Aquasecene, you can feed a wide species of fish at high tide, or take up Wildlife Park's invite to interact with giant freshwater stingrays and pig nose turtles.

Thrill seekers will want to test the Cage Of Death at Crocosaurus Cove, where the teeth marks and scratches on this protective viewing cubicle are testament to the raw jaw power of Burt, Bubbles, Clancy, Houdini, Bess and Chopper, six of the rogue residents who gained notoriety in the area for attacking cattle or eluding capture.

It was Burt who made the grab for Crocodile Dundee's girl in the movie and these 5-metre monster reptiles look just as impressive from underwater or face-to-snout in specially designed viewports.

LANCE.HORNBY@SUNMEDIA.CA

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IF YOU GO ... TO DARWIN, AUSTRALIA

GETTING THERE: For all travel information on Darwin and the Northern Territory, check australiasoutback.com.

Air Canada offers flights to Sydney from Toronto and Vancouver -- check aircanada.com for fares and departures.

Virgin Blue Airlines offers daily flights from Sydney to Darwin with fares starting around $215, one way, on the net. For extras, purchase a Premium Economy fare and enjoy fully inclusive food, beverage and entertainment. Check out virginblue.com.au for specials and bookings.

Formal connecting flights are also available to and from other destinations in the U.S. and Australia.

If you fancy extra leg room, exit row seats in international Economy are available for purchase at check-in from $110 US. Check vaustralia.com for specials.

BMW S1000RR: 200 hp, 300 km/h, $17,300. Any questions?Dallying around Darwin