Monday, March 1, 2010

High on the Bahamas

Our cameras landed on the pristine white beach before we did -- packed with towels aboard a cooler.

Swimming from the boat was the only way to reach the secluded shore for our expensive gear, our lunch and ourselves.

With flippered feet I swam the 100 metres, but relied on others including Bahamian guide Sanfred Rolle to carry or float the cargo.

Initially alarmed by the captain's order to swim with our belongings above our heads, the undertaking is now a fond memory, one of many adventures on a six-day tour of the Natural Wonders of The Bahamas taken this month.

This beach at Cape Santa Maria, Long Island, was named by Christopher Columbus who reached San Salvador in The Bahamas in 1492. It is billed as one of the best beaches in the world.

We enjoyed a couple hours on the silky white sands stretching some six kilometres.

A driver escorted us through a trail to a taxi back to the Stella Maris Resort.

Another best-in-the world adventure awaited us a 45-minute drive down the coast.

The mysterious and secluded Dean's Blue Hole has long fascinated divers, snorkellers and swimmers as well as stirring the imagination of others. It's the deepest blue hole in the world at 202 metres, twice the depth of others.

Blue holes, or sink holes, were formed during the ice age, 15,000 years ago.

Sanfred Rolle leads us up a rocky trail high above Dean to get the full impact of its spectacular setting. It's surrounded by a high cliff, beach and bay.

At 30 metres across, it's big and bold and provided pure pleasure to this snorkeller who simply floated on top, eyes peeled for any unusual sea creatures that might emerge from the dark.

On this day only the usual suspects -- bone fish and a few other snorkellers -- swam nearby.

We arrived at Long Island earlier in the day aboard a small plane operated by the resort's air service direct from the island of Andros.

Flights from Nassau take about one hour, travelling 265 kilometres.

Stella Maris, or star of the sea, has been operating since the early-60s as a "paradise" for divers, snorkellers and fishing enthusiasts.

In addition to the wonders below the twinkling Caribbean sea, the resort is set on a gorgeous garden estate with palm trees, tropical flowers and several swimming pools. Accommodation ranges from hotel rooms to self-catering bungalows and villas, all with great views of the Atlantic.

Snorkelling from the boat we'd enjoyed the tropical fish, and coral reefs, but it was particularly novel to observe divers far below.

Many of the German, American and Canadian guests who advised they'd chosen the intimate Stella Maris because of its diving excursions and tranquil nature were eager to share tales of their day's diving adventures. The shark-feeding dive is a favourite.

One evening our group of five, guests of the Bahamas Ministry of Tourism, was entertained by an impromptu performance of an original song and guitar accompaniment by vacationing Carleton University student Ayeila Daneshmend.

Stella Maris is at the north end of the 130-km long island. Its largest community, Clarence Town is in the south with plenty of attractions in between.

Cars are available to rent. (Just remember, founded as a crown colony of Britain in 1717, Bahamians drive on the left side of road.) Frequently "honking hello" seems a bona fide island tradition.

Genuinely friendly to each other and visitors seemed the natural order on this island as well as the two others we visited.

Sunday in Clarence Town was quiet. Rolle noted it is customary for islanders to attend church, then spend the day with family.

With mass over at St. Peter's Church, the bell towers beckoned the agile. Climbing a rickety wooden ladder, then shifting 'round to the next ladder over and over, higher and higher, was the most precarious task of the trip. The spectacular view of the pretty harbour town including a twin church --St. Paul's, built first by Father Jerome Hawes who then converted to Catholicism and built St. Peter's -- was ample reward.

Rolle served as driver and guide for our day-trip, regaling us with dozens of interesting island facts. Among them:

--The walls of churches and schools are built 22-28 cm thick to withstand hurricane force. Islanders will head to them as safe harbors where supplies will be at the ready.

-- Goats roam free on the island, revered as a mascot.

-- The island's "potcake dogs" got their name from their habit of eating the burned rice at the bottom of the pan.

--Pirates of the Caribbean two and three were filmed off Long Island.

Although Johnny Depp's Captain Jack has long sailed from this island, there are many real-life characters to meet and greet.

One famous son is Max (Gary) Ritchie who operates the popular Max's Conch Shack and Grill on the island's main thoroughfare, Queen's Highway.

Cold Kaliks (the beer of the Bahamas) refreshed us while the cleaver-wielding owner, cracked a conch and extracted the big snail. Following a flurry of slicing and dicing it plus lime, apple, tomato and peppers and other fresh ingredients we were served a delicious, spicy conch salad, reputed to be the best on the island.

Behind the stand I was fascinated to find a virtual conch graveyard -- mounds of pink shells retired after performing their culinary duty.

Chef Ritchie previously worked as a daring diving guide, earning his nickname "Mad Max" I was informed by some "local" Americans.

The three pals -- including Georgie who is building a house on the island -- stopped by to collect friendly bets on what would be the next Sunday's Super Bowl. They'd be enjoying the big game in Max's parking lot on a big screen.

Canadian siblings Joedy and Jillian Weatherby were also chilling at the outdoor shack this day. Joedy, who has been enjoying the friendly relaxed ambience of Long Island for years, is having a house built here to spend his winters.

"I can leave my home in Sarnia at 4:30 a.m. (grab a flight from Detroit to Nassau) and be at this conch bar enjoying a cold Kalik by 3 p.m.," he boasted.

And that's the get-here-easy attitude the Bahamian tourism industry is hoping more travellers will embrace.

A steady stream of small-plane charters and regular flights can be booked from Nassau to many of the some-700 islands offering more sand, sun and natural wonders and less hustle and bustle of larger resorts.

IF YOU GO

Bimini Bay Resort and Marina

www.biminibayresort.com

from $275 per night per suite

Small Hope Bay Lodge, Andros

www.smallhope.com

from $235 per person, all inclusive

Stella Maris Resort, Long Island

www.stellamarisresort.com

from $175 a night per person

Out Island general information

www.myoutislands.com

barbara.taylor@sunmedia.ca

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