Across the aisle, a Haida woman passes the time weaving with thin strips of moistened cedar bark she keeps in a plastic bag . She passes the time profitably, because I shortly learn that even small cedar crafts sell for hundreds of dollars.
We land more than two hours later at Masset, on Graham Island. It's turnaround day at some of the high-end sports fishing lodges and the log-sided terminal building is bustling.
First impressions are of mist, water, forests of western red cedar, Sitka spruce and Pacific hemlock, fishing boats, nets -- your standard Pacific Coast stuff.
But the totem poles grab your attention. Old Massett, one of the island's two Haida communities, has a dozen or more -- some old and weathered, others new and brightly painted, such as the one in front of the hospital carved by Christian White.
We find White helping finish two more poles for a ceremonial raising on National Aboriginal Day, two days hence.
"Every Haida is a carver,'' one man told me. An exaggeration, but most of the ones I met were talented craftspersons. Poke around and ask the locals and you might meet some and see their work.
Haida Arts and Jewelry in Old Masset has some wonderful examples, most, regrettably, beyond my budget. Silver pendants were $200 to $300, and carvings of locally quarried argilite didn't even carry a price tag. Even the tiniest woven cedar container was $95.
Over at Haida Rose Cafe & Roaster, there's Internet access and good coffee. Hungry? Try the fry bread and chili.
Skidegate, the second Haida community, is a 90-minute drive on the island's only paved road.
Set aside part of a day for the stunning new Haida Heritage Centre. Built on the site of an ancient village, it has a knockout view of water and islands. Among its most breathtaking artifacts are three massive totems from the 1800s.
The centre serves as a teaching place, too. We watched Chris Moody making and decorating bentwood boxes while his wife, Karen, painted designs on canoe paddles. In the lobby, Tracy Auchter was demonstrating raven's tail weaving, another art form being revived.
The carving shed houses huge dugout war canoes, including Wave Eater, a 25-metre craft carved from a single log by the legendary Bill Reid. The first built in more than a century, Reid created it for the 1986 world's fair in Vancouver. Afterwards, a proud Haida crew paddled it all the way north to Skidegate. The centre serves a good lunch and offers guided tours at 11 a.m. and 2:30 p.m.
Where to stay: Comfy, old-fashioned rooms, friendly owners, and a porch overlooking water and mountains made me sorry to leave Premier Creek Lodging in nearby Queen Charlotte City. Phone 1-888-322-3388 or visit www.qcislands.net/premier.
A special meal: Keenawaii's Kitchen, for traditional Haida food and feast songs and prayers performed by young relatives of the chef, Roberta Olson. The menu included salad with wild sea asparagus, two types of smoked salmon, halibut, venison, octopus balls, bannock, herring roe on kelp, dulce, a salad with salmon berries and fruit pie. About $50 a person, by appointment only; phone 250-559-8347.
Getting to Haida Gwaii takes some planning and is expensive. Make the most of it by arranging a guided visit to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve. It's accessible only by boat or float plane, and no more than 12 persons are allowed at any site ashore at one time.
Air Canada flies from Vancouver to Sandspit, but I'm told Masset, which Pacific Coastal uses, is more convenient.
Mail can be sent to Doug English, c/o London Free Press, P.O. Box 2280, London, Ont. N6A 4G1; faxes to 519-672-1824
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