My landlords, Rosa and Nello LeDonne, insisted when I visited Italy it was important I take a few days to explore their area of Quadri and Atelata in the Valley del Sancro (mountains).
I was thrilled to accept their kind offer and what an incredible experience it was.
First, I must note how cute and comfortable my room was in the little motel/bar/restaurant/souvenir shop I was lodged in. There were only five units and I was the only guest so I had a room that overlooked the Fiume Sancro giving me a most serene view of the mountains and streams which I was soon to personally view as the LeDonnes chauffeured me all over this particular area.
I mentioned in my previous column the fantastic, complimentary breakfasts in the large cities. At this tiny inn, I was treated to my first experience of being served an early morning Cappuccino with a fresh baked croissant, so I blame this lodging for my becoming addicted to this delightful cup of coffee.
Each morning before the LeDonnes came for me to start the tour of the day I would take a short walk to the Piazza and watched Quadri come alive as the old men gathered outside to play cards or chess while the older women, all attired in black, waited on park benches for the fruit and vegetable trucks to come roaring into the village selling their fresh-picked wares. A quaint fountain in the centre of the square, spouting out sprays of water gave off a cooling feeling much appreciated even at 8 a.m.
I must have been a novelty as I was given the 'eagle eye' up and down as I strolled along the square, listening to the women chatter away, no doubt discussing the gossip of the day.
What was astonishing was to notice the one gas pump right in the centre of this square with cars, trucks and motorcycles parked in and around in in haphazard fashion. In fact, it was quite amusing to notice if the small parking area was filled up, a car would just park right in front of any car, block it off and go about his business. If the person owning the vehicle was the one blocked in he would just lean against his car, arms folded across his chest and wait patiently for the owner of the blocking car to finish his business and move on out. Talk about courtesy and patience, but then I soon realized nobody in Quadri ever seemed to be in a rush.
Most of the residences were sort of like very, very, small condominiums and every one had a balcony on which the women hung the hand washing to dry on the railing. In fact, this was quite common across all of Italy as I witnessed washing out on balconies all over the country as I sped from city to city on the trains. I soon discovered why.
At the home of Rosa's sister, Adelia Belfiglio, I noticed in a little cupboard the tiniest washing machine that would probably hold one sheet and a pillow case at best. Thus, most of the smaller items were washed by hand to save water and electricity. People in Italy are ever so conscious of the environment and despite the high temperatures (90F) I rarely saw an air-conditioning unit even in high-class establishments.
Cooling of the homes and businesses was achieved by ceiling fans and shutters on the windows. What impressed me was the hanging of colourful ribbons of beads to cover the entrance.
When I inquired, "How come you must part these beads to get in" I was informed, "They are to keep the flies out."
What a great idea. Another thing that impressed me was the fact bedrooms did not boast huge walk-in closets. Instead, beautiful huge armoires, with delicate carvings and hand-painted flowers on the doors, took care of the wearables.
I was welcomed into so many homes to visit Nello and Rosa's families and friends I felt I actually belonged there. Of course you barely were seated at the kitchen table when the lady of house would set out cold drinks and Italian treats which I soon discovered would be rude to refuse, even if I wasn't hungry.
In Nello's little town, we sat near a fountain, savouring a refreshing Gelato, enjoying the serenity of watching the water spouting up to land on huge bronze lily pads before trickling down back into the well.
During our trek all over the Pescara area, we climbed up the winding mountains to reach the high peaks. What a sight it was to behold the vista below where very small villages are built right into the mountain side. The rear of some of the homes are flat up against the face of the mountain providing the back wall.
Often we would just stop and get out of the car to peer below for a bird's-eye view miles below where tiny streams flowed through equally tiny villages that from this high looked like little doll houses. Rosa or Nello, with justifiable pride, would point out the incredible vistas below where they had lived before they emigrated from Italy to Kenora.
All during our three days of touring the LeDonne areas I couldn't get over the hundreds of fig trees just growing by the side of the mountain roads. It was feast time for Rosa and Nello and they kept stopping to pick fresh figs and gorge on them with exquisite delight.
It just so happened that Nello's niece and husband, Pasqualina and Franco Donatelli, hosted a celebration to mark the 'coming of age' of their son Dario, who turned 18 on Aug. 30 and I was included on the invitation list.
One thing I noticed no matter where you went in Italy to eat, from the swankiest of dining spots to the tiny open-air bistros, every table was covered with beautiful linens and serviettes (no paper here).
But let me describe the menu that took us five hours to eat. Time was spaced between courses giving the guests a chance to get up and dance to taped music which was a really nice feature. Starting with an appetizer of proscuitto and melone increasingly heavier items followed such as Stuzzicherie (baked beans, cheeses and salami); then came the customary pasta dish of linguine al salmone e rucola; next were crepes that were as light as clouds filled with carne e spinaci (meat and spinach); there is always a meat course and the birthday treat was scaloppina ai funghi (veal and mushrooms). Spinach must have been a fresh produce as the next course was spinaci al burro (a truly delectable light and fluffy spinach souffle).
Now came the surprise course --would you believe plates of poutine (Canadian-style French fries with gravy and cheese) and I can't recall seeing any catsup. The final course before desserts was the famous crisp Italian salad of fresh picked greens.
After another bit of rest while tables were cleared the desserts were brought out. Of course, the torta was a cake decorated in the birthday boy's favourite sport of football (I made the mistake of stating, "Oh how nice, the cake is featured with soccer balls" and was quickly corrected to note the decorations were 'footballs'.
Finally, out came platters of fresh slices of melons, oranges, kiwis, grapes and other refreshing fruits served with one's choice of either Dolce or Secco champagne.
The regular meal was accompanied by copious bottles of Montepulciano Colle Cavaliere (red) and Chardonnay (white) wines and as quickly as one bottle was noted as empty by the servers another took its place.
Caffe with an Amaro nicely wound up the meal.
At Italian affairs entire families are included on the invite meaning a lot of younger children attended.
Naturally, a meal taking this long had the youngsters getting impatient and this is when I thought it would be a good time to hand out the colouring books and crayons donated by the Ontario Provincial Police and the red Frisbees graciously given to me by the City of Kenora.
The little ones got right at colouring and the older children went outdoors and it wasn't long before they were squealing with delight as they tossed the Frisbees to each other with wild abandon. The city also gave me a few pens and lapel pins which, during my trip I dispensed to deserving people. I also picked up a supply of 2009 Kenora calendars at the Tourist Bureau and I must say, they didn't cost me a cent, but turned out to be the best and cheapest souvenir I could have given them.
At the hotel in Lago di Garda, the entire staff immediately gathered around the reception desk to flip through January to December to get an idea of our bears, snow and ice, fall foliage, the lake etc. through those coloured photographs and this tiny token was a well received gift.
I had to stay the night at the Ambra Palace Hotel in Pescara as my train to start my railway tour left early in the next morning. I had asked for a wake-up call for 7 a.m. which came right on time. I was barely out of the shower and dressed when there was a knock on my door. You can imagine I was a mite frightened as I didn't know anyone in Pescara and wondered who it might be. The peep-hole was too high for me to see through but I opened the door anyway.
There was a waiter, in full uniform, handing me a silver tray with a Cappuccino and croissant on it with a smile and a Buon Giorno greeting that really made my day.
In fact, the train station was so close, you could see it from the hotel lobby. The concierge had the bell-hop take me and my luggage right to the station entrance to save me the cost of a taxi.
This started my tour and some incredible train rides. What amazed me, over and above all the washing hanging over balcony railings, was the thousands and thousands of acres of olive trees and grape arbours. No wonder Italy is famous for these two terrific exports. Actually, Italy produces more wine than any other nation.
I would like to extend heartfelt thanks to the Italian relations and friends who extended me such great hospitality.
On Rosa's side is her sister, Adelia Belfiglio and niece, Giovina D'Amico; and relations Mirella and Carlo Simonetti, their daughter Carol and son Piergiuseppe all in Quadri.
Speaking of the Belfiglio family, Ralph Belfiglio and wife, also named Rosa, early immigrants to Kenora asked if we would stop at a nursing home to visit Rosa's century-old father, Guiseppi (who sadly passed away Oct. 26). I took his picture with Rosa presenting him with some hand knit socks made by daughter Rosa Belfiglio. All of a sudden, out of nowhere, three residents of the home sidled up to me and asked, in Italian (translated by Rosa) if I would take their pictures together as all three are named Guiseppi and nobody had ever taken their picture. I complied and gave three copies to Rosa Belfiglio to send to them at the nursing home.
On Nello LeDonne's side are brothers Elio and wife Assunda; Ottavio and Anna; Settimio and Pierina. Unfortunately Nello's brother, Girolamo, was recently deceased so we took time to visit his grave-site and then drove over to visit with Girolamo's widow, Veneranda.
In Borrello, land is running out so now there are no more under-ground burials. All the deceased are placed in mausoleums that rise up quite a few stories as a way of further saving space. We also visited Nello's sister, Iolanda, married to Pio Gasrbarro. Nello's sister, Ida Rosa in Quadri, is a truly sweet woman who presented me with a fetching bonnbonniere to remember her by. It was nice to visit the home of Nello's nephew Dino and his wife, Rita, their daughter Tanya and sons Danny and Octavio.
It seems every Italian in Kenora wanted me to visit their family or at least, visit the place where they lived and Rosa, Nello and I did just that. I saw Rosina LaSelva's original home as well as the area where all the Belfiglios hail from. One evening, Rosa Belfiglio's brother and wife, Nicola and Lora, came to Quadri to see me as years ago when they were in Kenora for a wedding, I entertained them and they wanted to see me again.
We drove quite a way to visit Kenoraites, Cosmos and Maria Zollino who were in Pietra Ferrazzana, a teeny, tiny place built right into a mountain. Unfortunately, Maria was out shopping so we didn't get to see her but did chat a bit with Cosmos.
A couple of tips: in Italy, barring something very disastrous or unforeseen accidents all trains leave exactly on time so don't be late. I stayed in at 10 hotels and not one provided face cloths. There was an abundance of bath (many were linen which were just lovely) and hand towels and lovely toiletries but nothing to wash your face and body with which I thought strange. Maybe because guests steal them -- I don't know. So best to bring your own face cloths.
My first three days in Quadri were wonderful and it was truly a great start to my Italian sojourn. It was in these small villages I captured the true flavour of the warmth of Italians, the joyous way they look at life, and how garnering a lot of possessions doesn't interest them. They know how to live life to the fullest, take what comes, accept it and move on. Being with the wonderful people listed above really made my holiday a trip I will forever enjoy as, in years ahead, when my mind trickles back down memory lane I shall always have many moments to remember.
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