Monday, December 21, 2009

Christmas in the capital

OTTAWA -- While many Canadians look to warmer climes for a Christmas vacation, the capital offers a real winter extravaganza for the hearty.

Yuletide visitors will have to brave the climate -- December's average temperature is -3 C and snowfall for the month averages 57 cm -- but they'll find a lot of rewards.

By now, the city is aglow in Christmas lights. About 300,000 bulbs trim the Peace Tower and other public buildings. They shine from the monuments and trees along what's known as Confederation Boulevard, which stretches from downtown to the residences of the prime minister and Governor General.

This year, the lighting ceremony coincides with today's arrival of the Olympic torch relay.

The Centre Block of the Parliament buildings is open into the evenings. Visitors can tour the decorated halls and climb the Peace Tower itself for the spectacular view of a downtown awash in lights.

Jantine Van Kregten, communications director for Ottawa Tourism, says there are attractions for tourists of all ages.

Many of the national museums have seasonal programs, in addition to their regular exhibits.

"The science and technology museum does a really cool event called 'Talk to Santa,' it's a ham radio club that comes in so you can radio Santa instead of writing a letter."

The museum also marks the winter solstice, Dec. 21, with indoor and outdoor family activities to celebrate the shortest day of the year.

There are also the agriculture museum, the museum of civilization, the war museum, the museum of nature, the aviation museum, the Bank of Canada's currency museum and the National Gallery. Or check out the tours of the Royal Canadian Mint.

The National Arts Centre offers a variety of shows through the month, ranging from the Royal Winnipeg Ballet's Nutcracker to Handel's Messiah, a Leahy Family Christmas and a new production of A Christmas Carol.

If it's not too cold, there are self-guided downtown tours. Brochures offer guides to the city's street art, which ranges from the imposing statues of prime ministers, statesmen and heroes, to monuments, memorials and even Jean-Yves Vigneau's whimsical alley cats, 14 bronze felines which peer down at passersby from the walls of a downtown parking garage.

Getting out on Ottawa's famous Rideau Canal skateway, with almost eight kilometres of groomed ice, is an iffy proposition for December, because it depends on the weather.

"It's up to Mother Nature," Van Kregten says. "If I could wave my magic wand it certainly would be open. We all definitely hope for it."

Some years, it's late January before there's a deep enough freeze to allow for skating.

If the canal is open, skate rentals are available along the waterway. The traditional accompaniment for skating is a beaver tail, a platter of deep-fried, sweet dough topped with anything from lemon sugar to maple syrup.

For those with a taste for winter outdoors, Ottawa has it all.

Gatineau Park, just north across the Ottawa River, offers 200 kilometres of cross-country ski trails. There's downhill skiing, too, just a few minutes away.

"We don't have the Alps, we don't have the Rockies, but on a Tuesday night after work you can be out skiing . . . it's so accessible to downtown," Van Kregten says.

The Centre Block of the Parliament buildings is open into the evenings. Visitors can tour the decorated halls and climb the Peace Tower itself for a spectacular view.

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