From quiet Mullins Bay Beach to the dramatic cliffs and crashing waves of North Point, the region is home to the island nation's oldest greathouse and historic Speightstown, with one of its best new museums.
Harrison's Cave, a limestone cavern inland, is one of Barbado's most popular attractions. But the island's northern tip has the spectacular, though lesser known, Animal Flower Cave. (To think I bypassed this little gem on an earlier trip.) One of the highlights of the cavern, named for the sea anemones that live in its small pools, are the amazing views through the sea-carved rock windows.
Could there be a more suitable venue for a singer with a name like Billy Ocean to belt out a few tunes? My guide Don Archer was here in the 1980s when the performer perched himself by one of these rock ledges and sang The Colour Of Love, one of his signature tunes.
"About 50 people were standing around listening, it was really good," Archer reminisced.
Though it was calm on the day of my visit, waves sometimes spill into the cave with great force. Take extra caution during the hurricane season in the summer months and from late November to January when the sea is roughest. In a few other places, meanwhile, big wave action is the norm. See for yourself on the semi-circular scenic path along North Point or watch the blow holes on the wild east coast at Pico Teneriffe.
From there it's a short drive to St. Nicholas Abbey. The 350-year-old great house is one of only three Jacobean-style mansions still standing in the Western Hemisphere. Guided tours take you through rooms filled with antiques. There's also a museum, a distillery, and a flower and herb garden where you may encounter Lance and Baby, two endangered Moluccan Cockatoos. The once prosperous sugar plantation still contains a steam mill and a windmill.
Other early sugar barons, such as the Haynes family, also found the northern reaches an agreeable place to spend their leisure time. They built a beach house, which was acquired by a new owner in the 1960s and has since become the exclusive Cobbler's Cove Hotel. It now includes 40 suites, set around a lush tropical garden, that start around $500 per night.
The philosophy of this Relais and Chateaux property -- the only one on the island -- is to provide a home away from home. As you might expect, service is top notch. There are no TVs or radios in the rooms, just the sound of singing tree frogs and waves gently lapping on shore. In need of a drink while on the beach? Simply raise a yellow flag in the sand by your chair and a friendly barman will take your order, or enjoy a complimentary afternoon tea. Barbados is the most British of Caribbean islands afterall. In the restaurant, chef Brian Porteus is happy to take special orders (with advance notice).
From there it's a 10-minute walk into Speightstown, or the hotel will transport you by boat. On the way you can catch a glimpse late actress Claudette Colbert's former home-site.
People were fishing from the dock on arrival in Speightstown. Locals pronounce it "Spikes Tung," though once it was known as "Little Bristol" because, much of the sugar produced on the island was shipped by schooner to the English city.
The charming streets are lined with 19th century two-storey shops, many with Georgian-style balconies. Several buildings have been restored. The most dramatic example is Arlington House -- a 17th century home built in the style of the great houses of South Carolina -- which has just undergone a 20-year-long restoration. It opened about 18 months ago as a museum showcasing the 400-year history of Barbados.
When I emerged at closing time, it was too late to visit the art gallery across the street or check out the deals at the dollar store. But the Fisherman's Pub was open. One of a half-dozen rum shops on the northwest coast recommended by Peter Laurie in his book the Barbadian Rum Shop: The Other Watering Hole, it has a large patio above the sea.
A few patrons were watching the sun go down, while pouring over the extensive menu that includes many local dishes such as cou-cou (a mixture of cornmeal and okra), flying fish, macaroni pie and souse (pickled pork).
Colourful chattel houses -- the tiny one-room homes that are typical of the island -- glowed in the late afternoon light on the walk back to the hotel, while a few black-bellied sheep, made a surprise appearance at the roadside.
Getting off the beaten path in Barbados is easy. Just drive about 19 km north of the capitol Bridgetown and begin your adventure!
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IF YOU GO
to Barbados
For tourism information, check Barbados.org or call 1-800-268-1010. The Animal Flower Cave is open daily 9 a.m.-4 p.m. A few other rum shops worth checking out include Chris' Place with great atmosphere and food, and St. Elmo's Bar, which has a lively fish fry on Friday nights. For Cobbler's Cove visit cobblerscove.com.
Other attractions on the north side of the island include Farley Hill Park, the Barbados Wildlife Reserve, the Mount Gay Rum Distillery, and the Morgan Lewis Sugar Mill. The National Trust organizes 5- and 7-km walks leaving from St. Peter's church in Speightstown. The route follows the Arbib Nature and Heritage Trail, which won the Caribbean Ecotourism award in 1999.
WRITER@INTERLOG.COM
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