Saturday, April 4, 2009

Central Vietnam a tranquil treat

As we continue our whirlwind two-week tour of Vietnam, we bid a thankful farewell to the noise, chaos and pollution of Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) as we fly to Danang in the Central part of country.

The ninety-minute flight transported us to a region vastly different from the south. Central Vietnam is much quieter, cleaner and verges on the tranquil.

Our delightful guide Tam met us at the airport and whisked us to a quaint hole-in-the-wall restaurant for a bowl of Pho (pronounced fir) soup before we embark on a two-hour, 30 km bike ride from Danang to the ancient city of Hoi An.

En route we pass lush rice fields, stunning beaches, mountains made of marble and delightfully friendly locals.

As time was restricted, we had to miss spending time on famed China Beach.

However, if even half the high-end resorts planned see completion, Danang and it's China Beach are destined to become Vietnam's Waikiki.

Hoi An lies on the banks of the Thu Bon River. Occupied by early western traders, Hoi An is a well-preserved example of a Southeast Asian trading port dating from the 15th to the 19th century and was recently declared as a world heritage site by UNESCO.

Hoi An has a distinct Chinese atmosphere with low, tile-roofed houses and narrow streets; the original structure of some of these streets still remains almost intact.

All the houses were made of rare wood, decorated with lacquered boards and panels engraved with Chinese characters. Pillars were also carved with ornamental designs.

Must-see sites include relics of the Sa Huynh and Cham cultures while a visit to the local market is pure fun.

Tailor made garments can be whipped up in a matter of hours and one of the best 'factories' in town is Yali. Prices are very reasonable and the quality is acceptable.

We had the good fortune of staying at The Nam Hai-one of the world's most exclusive and exquisite resorts. Spectacular grounds, unparalleled accommodations and superb dining do not come cheap so The Nam Hai is not for the budget traveler.

November is supposedly the tail-end of the rainy season. Mother Nature was definetly having a spell as we ended up experiencing some of the heaviest rains the region had seen for years.

However, for we cold-blooded Calgarians, the rain proved a respite from searing heat and debilitating humidity.

Our next leg of the trip took us 108 km north to Hue (pronounced whey).

Hue, located on the northern bank of the Perfume River,is a quiet, relaxing city, big enough to be interesting but small enough to leisurely stroll around.

Steeped in history, the imperial city of Hue served as the country's political capital under the rule of the Nguyen Dynasty from 1802-1945. It was then that Bao Dai, the last emperor, abdicated to the government of Ho Chi Minh.

The city was severely damaged in the 1968 Tet Offensive. House to house fighting lasted for weeks but blessedly, many of the city's historic sites still stand.

Must-sees while here include: the old Imperial complex; the Citadel and the Forbidden Purple City; 300 year-old pagodas; and the many tombs of the emperors which lie a few kms. south of the city. Each tomb is a walled compound containing temples, palaces, and lakes. Top of the list is surely the magnificent Khai Dinh tomb.

Accommodations in Hue are varied. If you can, stay at La Residence Hotel and Spa located on the banks of the Perfume River at 5 Le Loi Street.

Listed in 2007 Conde Nast Traveler's Hot List, La Residence a has a storied history-and a beautiful Art Deco vibe.

Once the private mansion of the colonial French Resident Superieure, 5 Le Loi Street has played host to all manner of guests from the Viet Cong to the military governor of Danang and his family.

For many years after the war ended in 1975, La Residence languished on it's heels as a three-star hotel.

The facility was renovated and re-opened in 2005.

The next leg of our Vietnam adventure takes us north Halong Bay.

Stay tuned.

TRIPS TIPS

- Tour Operators: Viet Orient Tours has hosted many Calgarians. Owner Nguyen Viet can customize any type of tour you wish from biking to hiking, shopping to sightseeing. Visit www.vietorienttours.com

- Getting there: Daily flights from Vancouver to Hong Kong. Overnight in Hong Kong. Vietnam Airlines flies directly to Danang.

- Visa: You must have a visa to get into Vietnam. You're advised to have the visa before arrival-however, you can purchase your visa at Saigon airport but this can be a challenge.

- Vaccinations: There are no requirements at present but ensure you take a general antibiotic with you just in case. Vaccinations against tuberculosis and hepatitis B are sometimes advised.

- Safety:Travel in Vietnam is generally safe and violent crime is uncommon.

- Weather: July, August and September are the rainy months. Many areas experience severe flooding during this time. December, January and February are historically the driest months.

- Currency: the Dong is Vietnam's official currency. ATM's are common throughout Vietnam.


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