A lot of local people told me Cockleshell Bay was their favourite beach, so naturally I went to have a look. It was on this golden stretch of sand that I first encountered Wilbur. He was sleeping in the shade of a palm tree -- snoring.
Not many beaches have a resident pig, let alone one that weighs 317 kilos. Wilbur is somewhat of an island mascot, adored by tourists and locals alike. I watched as people took turns petting the hog and even hugging him while posing for photos, none of which seemed to disturb the sleeping Wilbur.
A few hours later, in the heat of the midday sun, the friendly hog got up and waded into the water up to his knees. A small crowd gathered on the beach to watch. One man began pouring water on Wilbur's back to cool him off. The pig seemed to enjoy that.
"That's got to be the biggest pig in the world," an astonished tourist remarked. Wilbur gets lots of attention, and it would seem, lots of food -- mostly leftover scraps from the Reggae Beach Bar and Grill, owned by Gary Pereira, Wilbur's keeper.
"He's a very smart pig," insisted Pereira praising his beloved pet, which he got from a friend seven years ago.
More recently, the restaurateur has begun caring for a baby goat named Mocha and an 8-month-old green -- or Vervet -- monkey called Oliver, both of which were abandoned by their mothers.
"It's like an orphanage of animals here," mused Pereira.
Oliver sometimes wanders around freely on the beach and other times he's in a big cage for his own protection (the Vervets are very territorial).
When I returned a few days later, Wilbur was napping (again), Oliver the monkey was playing on the beach with Lion Paw the dog, and Mocha the goat was, oddly, in Oliver's cage.
"She got into somebody's rum punch," explained Heidi Fagerberg, who takes care of the animals when she's not giving sailing lessons. "We found her swerving and staggering, so we put her in the cage until she sobers up."
They say there are twice as many monkeys on the island as people. Most of them are wild. But quite a few, like Oliver and another one I encountered at the sugar mill ruins of Wingfield Estate, are pets.
This Vervet, named Bruce, seemed to take an interest in grooming any visitors it got close to. If you visit, don't be surprised if you walk away with a new hairdo.
Two things you shouldn't miss while on the island are a trip on the St. Kitts Scenic Train (where you'll see old sugar mills, villages and monkeys) and a visit to Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It had been such a silly week, with Wilbur, the monkeys and all, that when I saw one of those wooden soldier cut-outs at the hilltop fort, I poked my head through it just like the kids.
I wasn't the only one "hamming" it up though. On a Sugar Plantation Heritage Tour with Greg's Safari, one of our stops was a hilltop viewpoint where our knowledgeable guide Greg Pereira, Gary's brother, pointed out some giant leaves called Elephant's Ears. One woman got the idea to climb in behind these green giants while her spouse snapped her photo. Soon, everyone else on the tour was lining up to do the same. If Wilbur and Oliver could talk I'm sure they'd approve.
For more information on St. Kitts, visit the St. Kitts Tourism Authority at stkittstourism.kn. Greg's Safaris offers three tours: Mount Liamuiga Volcano Hike, Sugar Plantation Heritage Tour, and The Valley of Giants Rainforest Hike. Check gregsafaris.com. For more on Reggae Beach Bar and Grill, visit reggaebeachbar.com.
WRITER@INTERLOG.COM
Under the Tuscan sun
