And what a land it is. While the rest of America hunkers down for a long, cold winter indoors, Northern Californians look outdoors for inspiration. The colours of spring are the colours of winter in California. Autumn rains transform the rolling hills from the dull-brown hues of summer into a vibrant green. By January vast fields of sunny yellow mustard carpet the valleys. Trees flower in February, and by March -- the emerald month -- the land is in full bloom. Then it all dries up, just in time for summer tourist season, when the hills turn the colour of lion's fur.
Much as we love its regal cabernets, Napa is expensive: Wine tastings can cost as much as $40 per person. Travelling on the cheap, it's better to stick to Sonoma County, where wineries are free or charge a mere $2 to $5 -- a boon for budgeteers. For a glimpse of the lesser-known Sonoma, head to the county's rural western side.
Ninety minutes from the Golden Gate Bridge, West County -- as locals call it -- is crisscrossed by winding roads meandering through vineyards, orchards and lush redwood forests. There's a bohemian vibe here -- nobody blinks if you drive a clunker and cell service is spotty. Even with a good map, it's easy to get lost.
There's more than just grapes: Sonoma prides itself on agricultural diversity. Plan to visit farms as well as wineries, especially if you're with the kids. You can come nose to nose with llamas, sample just-made goat cheese and even forage for mushrooms. For ideas, pick up the Sonoma County Farm Trails' guide (farmtrails.org).
Start north of Sebastopol, along Hwy. 116. Before the advent of Wine Country, West County was famous for its orchards. Lately grapes have replaced Gravensteins as the new cash crop, but locals still consider this apple country, especially at Mom's Apple Pie (momsapplepieusa.com), a roadside Formica-table diner just north of town. Nothing is so soul-soothing in belt-tightening times as a big slice of homemade pie, and Mom's does it right, with flaky crust and heaps of cinnamon-sweet filling, made better with a big dollop of whipped cream.
Find your way to Occidental, a 19th-century village few tourists know. Victorian-era whitewashed buildings front a tree-lined main street -- an ideal spot to stretch your legs between wineries. Locals are an only-in-Northern California mix of back-to-the-landers, Internet millionaires, organic farmers and old-line ranchers. Political discourse (left, of course) is the local pastime. Listen in over lunch at Howard's Cafe, which makes a mean applewood-smoked BLT on homemade toast. Afterward, pop into Renga Arts (rengaarts.com) to check out the arty and practical handmade goods made from reclaimed and recycled materials.
To sample the local specialty, pinot noir, head north. You'll need a good map to find the Hartford Family Winery (hartfordwines.com), but you may still get lost looking for one of West County's prettiest back roads. Enjoy the ride. Hartford makes eight different varieties of single-vineyard pinot -- and tastings are free.
You risk rain by coming in winter, but even as grey clouds gather overhead, mists twirl like evanescing ghosts in the redwoods. And you can't beat finding yourself in the middle of nowhere with a glass of wine in hand.
GETTING THERE
Horizon Air (horizonair.com) flies to Sonoma County from Los Angeles, Portland, Seattle and Las Vegas. Alternatively, fly into San Francisco and drive 90 minutes.
WHERE TO STAY
For the rural Sonoma experience, Valley Ford Hotel (707-876-1983; vfordhotel.com; about $125 weekdays, $195 weekends) has eight tidy rooms upstairs from a terrific roadhouse restaurant. Surrounded by vineyards, Raford House (707-887-9573, 800-887-9503; rafordhouse.com; from $190) has big Victorian rooms with lace and antiques. In West County's hub, Sebastopol Inn (707-829-2500, 800-653-1082; sebastopolinn.com; about $135 weekdays, $190 weekends) -- an upmarket motel -- has smart-looking rooms and a hot tub.
WHERE TO EAT
In blink-and-miss-it Graton, Willow Wood Market (willowwoodgraton.com; mains $10-$20) serves knockout California cooking, like smoked-trout salad, goat-cheese polenta and roasted chicken. Howard's Cafe (under $10; breakfast and lunch), in Occidental, dishes up American comfort food; arrive before 2 p.m. In tiny Valley Ford, Rocker Oysterfeller's (rockeroysterfellers.com; mains $25-$30) serves stellar barbecue oysters, local crab cakes, steaks, fried chicken and great Sonoma wines.
