Allure of London enduring

LONDON -- The great British journalist V.S. Pritchett once wrote that, "If Paris suggests intelligence, if Rome suggests the world, if New York suggests activity, then the word for London is experience."

Pritchett was right.

After all, he was born there, lived there and died there. London, as he said, is profoundly about human and civic experience, the kind that shapes present and future.

Just look up from the Thames, the river that defines London, to Westminster for the proof: The view speaks of the past, while streets and sidewalks overflow with ever more new people and cutting-edge style.

London is now in a state of keen anticipation, getting ready for the 2012 Olympics.

The hop-on- hop-off bus readily reveals fresh energy alongside its historic calm in a city of deep tradition and creative growth.

That's most evident in the old East End, whose real boundaries vary depending on who draws them. But having long been London's somewhat neglected cousin, it's now the centre of fresh attention as the main location of the Games.

For decades it has been blossoming in artistic renaissance, all because several generations ago, struggling artists moved in and have since moved up to open galleries, boutiques and cafes.

We stayed first in a peaceful apartment hotel, 196 Bishops Gate, then at a modern Crown Plaza on Shoreditch. Both gleamed in cleanliness and staff were efficient and gracious. Both places are on the edge of a particular East End neighbourhood I wanted to see: Spitalfields.

To many East Enders, it's the heart of the area, drawing its name from a hospital and priory (St. Mary's Spittel), which like its famous market, dates to the 1200s.

It's by no means dowdy: The place sparkles with new ethnic restaurants and designer shops, evidence of a fresh imagination residents bring to the neighbourhood.

Spitalfields has always been a place of deep diversity as you'll sense passing a Huguenot church, a Methodist chapel, a Jewish synagogue and a Muslim mosque, all there for years. But now it's more evident.

In the mid 1970s, large numbers of people from Bangladesh settled, some opening cafes that now thrive, like Curry Capital on Brick Lane.

But it's in the open air that East End creativity springs to life all summer and into fall through many street events: Tango dancing, music festivals (including one with performers from the fine City of London Sinfonia) and lunchtime concerts by people like singer Amelia Robinson, who has been at Carnegie Hall and on Broadway.

"There can be a misconception," Jacqueline French, a senior manager at VisitLondon, told me one morning, "that London is on hold because of preparation for the Olympic Games. That's absolutely not the case. London is always evolving, always moving into its future trying to do what it does well, but even better."

Three years from completion, "legacy" is a word used often by those who escort visitors for a look at London's Olympic Village.

They could use others -- massive, sprawling or gigantic -- but "legacy" is top of mind for a reason: There may be no better example of a project mindful of its social and environmental responsibility to the future.

The green focus of the games has already generated tremendous interest.

Three years in advance of the opening, the site has already hosted 25,000 visitors.

Seven million visitors are expected for the Olympics.

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IF YOU GO TO LONDON'S EAST END

For inquiries on London, see visitbritain.com. Also check britainforless.ca, for information on very economical packages. One advertised recently was for $969 per person, based on double occupancy, that covered air plus seven nights bed and breakfast at the centrally located, four-star Hotel Russell. For more information on 196 Bishops Gate, see 196bishopsgate.com. For the Crown Plaza on Shoreditch, see reservations@cplondon.com.

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Airport brings me back to earth

It had been quite a while since I'd last screwed up going through an airport. But when I did it at Toronto's Pearson last month, I more than made up for it.

Liquor was involved in my first mistake, a litre of duty-free Bombay Sapphire gin I'd bought during our Air Canada flight from England. It had been decades since I'd last done this, which helps explain why I ran afoul of security.

As soon as the lady in uniform asked if she could open my knapsack, it dawned on me: I'd missed my chance to check the pack for a connecting flight, which we were due to board in half an hour.

I could have gone back and done that -- in fact the security woman suggested this -- but Pearson was busy, lines were moving slowly, and I couldn't be sure of being able to make my way back through security and reach my departure gate in time.

Bye-bye Bombay Sapphire.

Flustered by the sight of a $22 purchase disappearing to wherever confiscated booze goes, I made my next faux pas -- losing the boarding pass for my next hop.

Of course I didn't discover this until our flight was called. Pockets were searched, panic ensued, blood pressure skyrocketed.

I dashed over to the Air Canada Jazz desk and threw myself on the mercy of the folks there.

No problem, one said, glancing at the boarding pass of the flight I'd just come off, you're in the system. A couple of keystrokes and, voila, a replacement pass. It's something to keep in mind should this happen to you.

I was so grateful I forgave Air Canada for serving fish for lunch on the way over, the fragrance of which lingered for some time.

And it made me yearn for pre-9/11 when I lugged a gallon jug of bourbon -- a prize won at a newspaper workshop in Virginia -- on and off flights without anyone batting an eyelash.

Speaking of airports:

- After elbowing our way through Terminal 3 at Heathrow, in London, England, a travel companion asked if it was the world's busiest airport. According to The Economist, Atlanta has that distinction, handling 90 million passengers in 2008. Chicago O'Hare was next and Heathrow third.

- Early mornings at the airport in London, Ont., will be even busier when United Airlines starts flying to Chicago on Sept. 29. The first departure is at 6:45 a.m. (a second is scheduled for 4:53 p.m.) On my last dawn visit, check-in was still a breeze and the security staff friendly as always.

More leisure travel news:

- Virginia Beach, Va., has extended its annual Canada Weeks promotion. They can enjoy two extra nights free when booking a six-night stay at a participating hotel through Oct. 1. In addition, participating kayaking, surfing and eco-tourism outfitters are offering Canadians a "book one get one 50% off" offer, and Busch Gardens Williamsburg has discounted rates. Visit vbfun.com/canadaweeks for details.

- Coach Canada is marking the introduction of double-deck Megabuses on its Toronto-Kingston-Montreal route by putting 10,000 seats on sale for $1 for Internet bookings at www.megabus.com. Once those seats are gone, others will be available at $10 to $60. The 81-passenger Megabuses have front and rear staircases and offer free Wi-Fi, power outlets and DVD video capabilities, as well as a panoramic view, two folding card tables, reclining seats, restroom, safety belts and accessibility for the mobility impaired.

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Tips for women travellers

CAMBRIDGE, Mass. - What do dental floss, shower caps and dryer sheets have in common?

They're all products that can serve multiple purposes when you travel, according to "101 Tips for Women Travellers," a new free booklet from Overseas Adventure Travel and Grand Circle Travel. More than 70 per cent of the two tour companies' clients are women, and the booklet is comprised of ideas from female employees, guides and travellers around the world.

Among the tips: Dental floss is so strong it can double as a makeshift laundry line for clothing you might be handwashing on the road. Many travellers swear that dryer sheets repel mosquitoes if you tie one to your belt loop or backpack or slip one in with your bedding. They also help keep a suitcase full of clothes or a musty rental car smelling fresh.

And stash those free hotel shower caps in your luggage for later use. You can use them to wrap up a damp swimsuit, cover a camera in the rain, or help insulate anything you're carrying that might either leak or get wet.

To receive the "101 Tips" booklet, call 800-873-5628. You should receive a free copy within two or three weeks.


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Storied Plaza hotel rises again

NEW YORK -- A telling of the history of New York would be incomplete without the Plaza Hotel. It was here that the Beatles spent their first night in the U.S., that Marilyn Monroe famously bared her breast in front of photographers, where Truman Capote held his famous Black and White Ball and where Woody Allen publicly declared his love for Soon Yi. Closed for three years of intensive renovations, the Plaza has begun the newest stage in its already storied life.

There was widespread consternation in the Big Apple back in 2005 when the El-Ad group, owners of the Plaza, announced they were converting half of the hotel into condominiums. The number of hotel rooms was cut from 805 to 282 and more than 150 apartments were built, including one that sold for $50 million.

"In the minds of New Yorkers, the Plaza belongs to them, but it was more fear than actual harm," said Francis Morrone, Plaza devotee and architecture historian who is my guide for the day. "It was a good thing. The hotel wouldn't have survived; tourists today are looking for the boutique hotel experience."

Morrone is enthralled by the completely renovated rooms.

The Grand Ballroom, the Terrace Room, the Oak Room and the Edwardian Room have all recovered their former grandeur, not to mention the famous Palm Court with its luminous glass dome, hidden for more than 60 years by a false ceiling.

MOVIES FILMED THERE

Images of Home Alone spring to mind upon entering the impressive lobby. The Plaza was the set for many movies over the years. The first was Alfred Hitchcock's North by Northwest, filmed in the Oak Bar in 1959. Fifty years later, Gossip Girl and Robert Pattinson are doing the same, another sign the Plaza is far from being out of style.

The Plaza is the kind of hotel where your family portrait is placed in your room, and your initials are embroidered on your pillowcases. All that glitters in these rooms really is gold, 24-carat gold to be exact. It's also the kind of hotel where every suite has its own butler. Oh, and there's a Rolls Royce Phantom available for guests who want an outing anywhere from five to eight blocks away.

With the renovations complete, the Plaza reopened its doors last year, just as the recession took hold. According to general manager Shane Krige, the Plaza is 85%-95% booked on weekends. A miracle, given that rooms go for an average of between $500 and $3,500 a night.

The three-year closure was the first in the hotel's 98-year history and an eternity in the hospitality industry. The work cost $400 million US. Everything was redone, from the plumbing to the electrical system.

"The timing was perfect because with the economic crisis, we're going to enter into a period of austerity in architecture and no one is going to want to start work like this," Morrone noted.

The Plaza decor has also evolved with less Louis XV style in evidence and more modern spaces. The Rose Club, next to the lobby, is a champagne bar that any Sex and the City fan would die for.

The hotel's most exclusive suite, The Royal Plaza, can be yours for $20,000 a night. Its 4,400 square feet of space includes three bedrooms, a dining room, a private gym, a library and the latest in sound systems. Mariah Carey was the suite's first guest, and used it to film her latest music video.

Built in 1907 to unseat the St. Regis Hotel, the Plaza cost $12.5 million, by far the most expensive building of its time. The arrival of the French Renaissance style marked the beginning of Fifth Avenue's transformation into a major commercial artery. Today, the Plaza is an integral part of the New York landscape and has come a long way from its earliest days, when a mere $2.50 would get you a room.

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FUN FACTS

ABOUT THE PLAZA

- Frank Lloyd Wright, the world-famous architect, was a fan of the Plaza. He spent the last years of his life here.

- The hotel hosts an average of 100 weddings a year. Many celebrities got married in the ballroom.

- Eddie Murphy wasn't a fan of the Plaza carpets and insisted they be covered with white rugs for his wedding.

- The hotel's first guest on Oct. 1, 1907, was Alfred Gwinn Vanderbilt, a member of America's richest family at the time. He lived there for his last eight years.

- During a press conference in 1956, the Plaza was witness to the first-ever wardrobe malfunction when Marilyn Monroe's dress strap broke.

- There was a time when the Plaza was the best-known building to American children thanks to Eloise, the heroine from the books by author Kay Thompson. One of the rooms was even remodelled for visitors to look like the one from the series.

- The Plaza and the Waldorf-Astoria are the only New York hotels classified as historic landmarks.

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Rome never goes out of style

ROME -- On the centuries-old cobblestone streets, in the busy cafes, in church pews, Rome is much more inviting than people imagine. And any love you show to the Eternal City will be paid back tenfold.

Romans say you'd need more than a lifetime to fully discover their city, and that's its charm -- with so much to see it's impossible to get bored. As a comparison, there's definitely more to see here than in Paris.

Everywhere you look there's a swirling mix of styles from every conceivable era. At any given time you can find a 2,000-year-old Roman temple supported by huge white columns, and around every corner there will likely be a church where you can admire frescoes from the Middle Ages that are not listed in guide books; then it's off to a trattoria to savour the best spaghetti carbonara you've ever tasted.

Such a place requires you give yourself over to the pleasure of wandering the streets for a while and then stopping at a cafe to recharge with a good espresso.

The citizens of Rome are a proud bunch and have every reason for being so.

Although it's possible to see them as stuck-up, all they want is some respect. They, after all, are forced to put up with the hordes of poorly mannered tourists who come in droves and act like they own the place.

A smile, some politeness, a few words in Italian (hello: buon giorno; please: per favore; thank you: grazie; it's easy to pick up) will quickly be repaid in kind. Once the ice has been broken you'll be surprised by their kindness.

And you don't have to dress like a super model to make a good impression; just don't show up looking like you're going jogging.

If you stay in the city a few days and get into a routine, the locals will quickly accept you. The owner of the little bar where you go for coffee will recognize you and offer a kind greeting. Try standing at the counter; it's cheaper and you get to interact with Italians. The headwaiter at that fantastic little restaurant will soon find you his best table.

Of course, Rome is expensive. But there are deals. Air carriers like Air Transat and Air Canada offer transportation and accommodation packages at very reasonable prices. Restaurants can be pricey, but it depends on the neighbourhood. In Trastevere, for example, you can find excellent full-course meals for around $20.

But what to see, where to start? There are the mandatory destinations: The Vatican, the Coliseum, the Roman ruins in the historic city centre, the Pantheon, the Castel Sant'Angelo, the catacombs, the Trevi fountain. The museums are a must-see, in particular the vast collection at the Capitolini Museums.

Then there are the churches. In my view, these are one of the Italian capital's most interesting aspects. They're everywhere, on every street corner, from every era and in all sizes. There are more than 900 in the Eternal City. They're overflowing with history, relics, masterpieces, anecdotes, icons and plaques.

Faced with a Catholic church that's increasingly disconnected from modern realities, Italians have risen to the occasion. They've kept their faith, but maintain the illusion they're still following the Vatican's moral precepts. The result is a religious fervour that can still be felt in places of worship.

These places can be quite moving, as in the case of Santa Maria di Trastevere. Covered in ornate 13th-century mosaics and incorporating elements from the Roman era, the church plays host almost every night to concerts of religious music. The quality of the choirs is excellent and the atmosphere is heavenly.

Another church, Basilica of Saint Clement, offers an amazing journey into history and serves as a reminder that Rome really wasn't built in a day. Excavations at the site found two floors below the church. The lowest level dates back to Roman times and the second one to the High Middle Ages.

In addition to the discovery of frescoes, on the Roman level searchers discovered an altar to the god Mithras (who had a large following around the time of Christ) and even a spring of groundwater that is still active. The tours down into the lower levels feel like you're descending into the belly of Rome.

These are only a few examples of the many discoveries that await those who take the time to go exploring in the Eternal City.

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IF YOU GO

To the Eternal City

When to go: Spring or Fall. Summer is too hot.

Getting around: All those archaeological remains have limited the subway network to just two lines. Buses work well but watch out for pickpockets on routes popular with tourists.

Travel information: Check out packages from Air Canada or Air Transat or if booking lodging direct, see Venere.com for apartment accommodations or monasterystays.com for options in monasteries.

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Delightful Lake Louise

Call it the last true calm before the storm.

With summer set to fade into memory and the frantic post-August pace upon us, The Adventure Getaway and Play package at the picturesque Chateau Lake Louise is the perfect two-day retreat for those looking to recharge the batteries before plunging into the frantic fall.

Running Sept. 11-13, the popular getaway is perfect for couples, friends or anyone looking to spend some nature-sponsored time with someone special.

The getaway features two nights at the storied Chateau, breakfast, lunch and an unforgettable dinner on the Saturday.

The weekend is tailor-made for those who want to shake the rattle of everyday life.

Guests are treated to a Friday night fondue reception and a Saturday night signature dinner, where the executive chef and sommelier trot out course after course of decadent pairings.

An a-la-carte menu of activities caters to the most adventurous visitors, as well as those who would prefer to sample some of the more refined offerings of the century-old resort.

There are hikes, canoeing, wine tasting and cooking lessons held by some of the Chateau's world-renowned chefs.

The Lake Agnes Teahouse hike, led by award-winning naturalists, is a scenic half-day trek proving that the journey can be as enjoyable as the destination. Awaiting those who make the 7-km jaunt is a breathtaking view of the many peaks that crowd Lake Louise and a rustic teahouse with the log cabin charm of times past.

For those whose idea of adventure is more related to palate than peaks, there is a wine-tasting hosted by a Chateau sommelier.

And while the inclusive extras are highly recommended, the true gem in this getaway is the splendour of Lake Louise itself.

Looking across the turquoise tranquillity of the lake as it mirrors the majestic Victoria Glacier, it's easy to get lost in a postcard moment.

The serenity of Banff National Park's most picturesque piece of real estate has the ability to hypnotize even the most city-hardened, mile-a-minute visitor.

Those lucky enough to spend a weekend at the Chateau will see its history come alive at every turn, from the historic wall art to the chandeliers paying homage to the Swiss maidens.

Originally the brainchild of Canadian Pacific Railway general manager Cornelius Van Horne, the one-storey log cabin constructed on the shore of Lake Louise in 1890 was the first of many early inceptions of the grand hotel. It became a destination for early rail travellers.

In 1896, following what is believed to be the first Canadian mountaineering death, Canadian Pacific hired two Swiss guides to carve a path to safely lead guests to the many summits around Lake Louise.

Two fires destroyed the early versions of the Chateau but the 1911 rebuild forms the heart of today's hotel.

Through the years, the Chateau has become a destination of choice among Hollywood celebs and royalty.

Marilyn Monroe, Alfred Hitchcock, Prince Rainier of Monaco and Queen Elizabeth II have tasted the opulence of the retreat, as have many modern stars and athletes.

Those attending the weekend retreat receive the same royal treatment as the dignitaries who came before them.

So, if you're looking to rekindle a flame or just hang out with your best friend in one of Mother Nature's most magnificent creations, the Adventure Getaway and Play package is a perfect fit.

To book, call Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise at 1-888-690-2323 or Central Reservations at 1-800-441-1414.

For further information and details about the weekend visit www.holidategetaways.com.

JOSE.RODRIGUEZ@SUNMEDIA.CA

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Vibrant eating scene in Taipei

Q: I've never been to Taipei but will be going there on business, I also wish to get in some play time for shopping and checking out the restaurant scene. I'm hoping you might have suggestions. Many thanks.

-- S. Profeta, Woodbridge

A: Taipei has a vibrant dining and shopping scene. Here are a few places I recommend:

- MTV Asia singing sensation Jay Chou's film Secret is the inspiration for a funky resto called Mr. J French-Italian Restaurant (mrj-tw.com, No. 43, Lane 308, Guangfu S Rd., Taipei). Big on film props and self-framed portraits, the cuisine is French and Italian, the multi-talented celebrity's favourite fare.

- The Five-Dime Driftwood House restaurant (No. 8 Lane 32, Neihu Rd. Sec. 1, five-dime.com.tw/html/homepage.htm) is the creation of artist-turned-culinary maverick, Hsieh Li-Shiang. Her obsession with recycled material and driftwood shows in her decor, which includes Spanish influences in an architectural style reminiscent of artist Salvadore Dali and architect Antoni Gaudi. A southern belle (from Tainan county), Hsieh's haute Taiwanese cuisine is served in Fred Flintstone-like bowls and plates. Food is plenty so bring your business colleagues.

- In the the Ximending district's network of pedestrian zones, you'll find many shops and the Red Theatre, which showcases spoken-word and vocal performances. The city's oldest traditional market -- Ximen -- offers many opportunities to spend some cash.

- For upscale purchases, Dragon Fly Gallery (11 Songkao Rd., dragonfly.com.tw), is known for its funky designs. My favourite items: A George Gina and Lucy Anything Goes bag for about $165 and a silver ant pendant for $132.

Also, check with the hotel concierge for dining and shopping areas near your hotel.

Q: Is it worth visiting the Luxor Museum? We're going on an organized tour of Egypt but will have a few hours free time during a visit in Luxor.

-- F. Perelli, Woodbridge

A: If you love Egyptian archeology and learning about this country's ancient history, this place will not disappoint. Smaller than the Cairo Museum, the Luxor Museum opened in 1975 and has several rare collections, mummies, statues, coffins -- and a connection to Ontario.

The mummy believed to be Pharaoh Ramsee I spent 140 years at the now-closed Niagara Falls Museum before being returned to Egypt in 2003.

Q: My husband and I purchased a Eurail Select Pass this spring. We travelled by rail from Vienna to Budapest and then from Vienna to Venice. Sadly we encountered a problem while travelling through Slovakia enroute to Venice. The ticket taker said we must pay extra as travel through his country wasn't covered by our pass even though it was not our final destination. I was shocked to learn about the extra charge which, at the time of booking, our ticket agent in Canada never mentioned. We are upset and reluctant to consider future rail trips across Europe.

-- P. Trung, Mississauga

A: I consulted Rail Europe's (raileurope.com) Canadian representative Derick McQuarrie for comment.

Derick explains that the couple had purchased a four-country select Eurail Pass that was good for travel in Austria, Hungary, Czech Republic and Italy. Even though they were not stopping in Slovakia, it did not cover travel through that country.

Eurail passes are a good deal and if you do decide to use them for future travel, McQuarrie suggests you use a map when planning your journeys. "Many times by looking at the two cities you wish to travel between you can see if another country has to be crossed." If you are still unsure ask before you leave.

ILONA@MYCOMPASS.CA

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