Sunday, November 14, 2010

When in Galway

If you are interested in Irish history and culture, the West Coast city of Galway has much to recommend it.

It boasts being both the cultural and bilingual capital of Ireland. It's loaded with interesting architecture, including its famous city walls built in the late 1200s and now incorporated into a modern mall.

The Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas is one of many ancient structures still in use. Built in 1320, it is the largest medieval parish in the country.

Galway's passionate guides engage visitors with tales of the area's colourful warring tribes dating back to the first fort in 1124.

You can learn about the 14 families who dominated politics and trade in the early 1400s, giving the city its nickname, City of the Tribes.

Look up and see the "murder hole" of an old manor used to pour hot liquid on invaders.

Stand on the spot where a window commemorates the 1493 hanging by Mayor James Lynch of his own son, convicted of murder.

Also known for its educational excellence as the home of the National University of Ireland, Galway, founded in 1845, the city attracts a youthful population.

If however, you are simply looking for a good time in a land peopled by pub lovers -- known to celebrate life with an Irish wake rather than just a somber funeral farewell -- you'll find it here. Bonus if you love any or all of the following: Guinness, champagne and fresh oysters.

And, for the select few who prize dressing up for a black tie gala and dancing on white-linen draped chairs while wildly waving napkins -- pot of gold.

Of course, a thirst for culture and tradition and another for partying to the wee hours are not mutually exclusive. That's what makes a visit to Galway during one of the city's many festivals such a treat for tourists. Earlier this fall I was a guest at the five-day Galway International Oyster Festival, offering a lively assortment of free and ticketed events throughout the city.

The Guinness Irish Oyster Opening Championship was claimed by Michael Moran -- familiar to our group of Canadians who earlier enjoyed lunch at his family owned restaurant -- Moran's Oyster Cottage at the Weir, Kilcolgan, County Galway. The 300-year-old cottage is sought out by oyster lovers the world over. Michael is the seventh generation of the Moran family.

Weakened by jet-lag I credit Moran's delicious garlic-baked oysters with providing me the sustenance to carry on.

Moran -- code name, Tiger -- went on to place second in the Guinness World Oyster Opening Championship behind Sweden's Johan Malm (Angel). Canada's Eamon Clark (Tuna) of Toronto's Rodney's Oyster House placed 10th in a field of 16 countries from as far away as Singapore and the Czech Republic.

Our first glimpse of the international competitors was bearing their countries' flags in a rousing morning parade that wound its way through the city's cobblestone streets to the delight of young and old, locals and tourists. Post-parade, the village square was alive with music, face-painting clowns and colourful characters.

A few blocks away, the Radisson Blu Hotel was gearing up to host the big oyster-shucking event.

Competitors, in heats of four shucked 30 oysters each in front of hundreds of cheering fans. They are judged on speed and presentation.

Fresh oysters were also plentiful at the afternoon feast as well as other seafood delights plus plenty of wine and Guinness.

Despite the tense competition on stage, a party atmosphere prevailed with live bands, Irish dancing and the crowning of the Best Dressed Lady. Lovely Audrey O'Farrell of Galway was presented with a 4,000-Euro diamond necklace and a cheque for 1,000 Euros. She graciously accepted the honour while confiding in me she had won the title before.

The more I mingled the more I discovered the fest, which started in 1954, attracts many repeat partiers. Representatives from Florida, France and Canada boasted their loyalty to the "best party ever."

Some of that credit can go to the crowd-favourite Friendship Band of Northern Ireland. The brass band of community players formed 30 years ago as a friendly unit able to bridge differences within Northern Ireland as well as south of its border. The band has performed in New York City and Europe.

These merrymakers -- who have been entertaining at the Galway fest for some 20 years -- wowed the crowd morning, noon and night. Ken Tweedie paraded members through the streets and founder-conductor Bill Caughey kept things lively on stage in the afternoon. But it was Caughey and the band's early evening rendition of Sweet Caroline, belted out by Gil Irvine, that struck the biggest chord.

Not just singing along, not just on our feet, but in evening gowns and tuxedos, we, the ballroom patrons, were up on our chairs, dancing and waving napkins.

Canadian Patrick McMurray -- world oyster opening champ of 2002 and owner of Toronto's Starfish Oyster Bed & Grill -- was already on his chair when the band marched in. Apparently this spirited before-dinner ritual has become a tradition at the festival in the last five years. Why wait to get the party started?

The evening, which had started with an oyster and champagne reception proceeded with a five-course gourmet dinner. Live bands, The High Kings and, after midnight, the Las Vegas Connection, kept the dance floor -- and occasionally the chairs -- hopping.

The room erupted when the world's top shuckers made grand entrances -- dancing in with their flags or carried atop the shoulders of devoted fans.

Later, led by the exuberant McMurray, many gala-goers could be seen winding their way through the ballroom in a conga line, clutching napkins strung together.

"No-one can enjoy themselves like the Irish at festival time," Caughey had told me earlier.

Indeed.

barbara.taylor@sunmedia.ca

If you go to Ireland

For travel information, contact Tourism Ireland at 1-800-SHAMROCK or discoverireland.com. For AirTransat flights from Toronto to Western Ireland's Shannon airport, see airtransat.ca. Next year's Galway International Oyster Festival is Sept. 21-25. See galwayoysterfest.com.

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