Thursday, November 11, 2010

Taiwan a natural treasure

Stop for a moment in the Kenting National Forest, where the screeching sounds of hundreds of unseen monkeys and the unbelievable hanging Banyan trees will leave you agape.

The lush, tropical vegetation, the ancient caves and viewing platform over the Pacific Ocean will make you rethink any preconceived notions of Taiwan as a bustling, densely populated urban jungle.

Part of the Republic of China, instead you'll find the island of Taiwan a tiny gem that offers everything a visitor to Asia might want -- from wildlife, a thriving beach culture, delicious Asian cuisine and outdoor activities like biking and hiking, to cities with a lively nightlife, museums galore and traditions that range from aboriginal to Buddhist.

Small enough to be seen within a week, Taiwan spans 400 km from top to bottom.

"Taiwan is a melting pot. We have preserved much more of our traditional Chinese culture than Mainland China, but we also have taken influences from the Japanese and our aboriginal people," says Johnson Hu, a former journalist who has been leading tours of the island for the past three years.

"We have everything -- food, mountains, sea, religion, shopping. It's very peaceful."

Governed by the Republic of China since 1945, when it was handed over by the Japanese who had ruled it since 1895, Taiwan retains some Japanese influences. These can be seen in its ceramic artwork as well as some formal customs among the older generation such as bowing when exchanging business cards.

Pottery lovers must stop by Yinngge, a city southwest of the capital Taipei, where a quaint street offers ceramics ranging from the mass-produced to the unique, and the Ceramics Museum shows the art of clay through the ages. Ceramics have been a way of life -- and the city's main industry -- since 1804.

What really stands out to the first-time visitor to Taiwan is how quickly one can see the entire island, going from built-up cities -- Taipei has a population of 2.5 million -- to calm mountain ranges and spectacular natural sights in less than two hours.

A well-developed high-speed rail system that travels along the west and east coasts of the island allows for speedy travel throughout the country. There are also plenty of bus trips visitors can take.

The eastern, Pacific Coast, offers beautiful views and historical stops, including a plethora of natural hot springs hotels in the southwest and countless national parks and recreation areas.

First on most visitors' lists should be the Yehliu Geopark, on the northern tip of the island and close to Taipei. The rock formations, developed by wind and stretching into the Pacific Ocean, a must-see natural wonder and they won't be around forever -- in fact, the iconic "Queen's Head" rock formation is expected to topple within a decade.

Not to be missed is a visit to the Taroko National Park, which boasts many walking trails and historical features as well as the Taroko Gorge.

Located in the park, the Shakadang Trail is just one of the ways to explore the gorge. The 4-km hike follows the Shakadang River and winds its way through marble cliffs and limestone overhangs.

The Taroko Gorge -- also called the marble gorge -- features exposed coral that over time formed naturally into limestone and marble. The road leading to the gorge, which links the west and east coast of Taiwan, was completed by hand by Chinese workers, many of whom perished during its construction. The Eternal Spring Shrine, located by a nearby waterfall, commemorates the 202 fallen and is a solemn but interesting visit.

Further south along the east coast are several aboriginal villages that offer restaurants and hotels, as well as a number of hot springs hotels in the shadow of the Central Mountain Range, considered the spine of Taiwan.

A bike ride around Carp (Liyu) Lake clears some of the humidity in the air on the way to the Eight Arches Bridge, which takes tourists to an island in the Pacific Ocean. The 60-minute round-trip walk to the island is well worth it, especially as the sun sets over the mountains to the west.

Some architecture and urban design were inevitably shaped by the years of Japanese rule, and can be seen most starkly in southern city of Kaoshing, which with its wide streets and orderly design looks more like Tokyo than Taipei in the north.

For any nature lover, though, Kenting National Park is the crowning jewel on Taiwan's raw beauty.

On the country's southern tip, the national forest recreation area is almost magical. The country's only tropical national park, it rests on a bird migration path that offers spectacular views of many species.

As well, there are Banyan trees, characterized by roots that grow up in the air. The Looking Glass Tree is more than 400 years old. There are also stalactite caves as well as fertile flora that almost overwhelms the senses, especially if visitors are more used to travelling in urban centres.

The Taiwan macaque monkeys welcome visitors with their high-pitched screeching.

Although the rugged Central Mountain Range covers 60% of Taiwan's land mass, there are also rolling plains on the west coast, home to most of Taiwan's population because it's geography is much more hospitable.

Cities, including Taipei and Kaoshing, offer everything any busy city would -- upscale shopping, tourist attractions, night markets with great deals and nightlife -- especially if visitors want to try their hand -- or voice -- at karaoke.

Kate.dubinski@sunmedia.ca, Twitter.com/KateatLFPress

IF YOU GO TO TAIWAN

GETTING THERE

EVA Airways offers direct flights from Toronto to Taipei. Check evaair.com for ticket information. Economy class round-trip fares from Toronto start at $1,300 in the off season, and about $1,800 in peak season. The 16-hour journey is especially comfortable if you opt to upgrade to Elite Class for an extra $200.

MORE INFORMATION

-- For details on all aspects of travel to Taiwan -- including tips, maps and other information -- check the Tourism Bureau, Republic of China (Taiwan) website at eng.taiwan.net.

-- With its marine tropical climate, the best time to visit Taiwan is between September and November, when the weather tends to be warm (in the mid-20- to low-30-degree Celsius range) and relatively dry.

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