Friday, June 11, 2010

Prince Edward Island living

There's always a good reason to visit Prince Edward Island. Recently, the reason was personal – to fete good friend Catherine Hennessey, whom Charlottetown was honouring, for her role in preserving the province’s architectural heritage.

But, you don’t need a party as incentive, the easy-drive province offers such wonders – the very walkable historic capital city itself, the ocean along the north shore, the spunky Anne of Green Gables, lobster season, rolling cross-country landscapes, strawberry rhubarb pie, cloth bound Cheddar, bowls of mussels born and bred plump and luscious within driving distance of wherever you are on the Island. And oysters, moonshine and steamed clams.

As incentive to get readers to put PEI on their summer vacation radar, here are a few Island-inspired recipe temptations.

CATHERINE HENNESSEY'S GOOD BROWN BREAD

In many an Island bread basket, you are quite likely to encounter this kind of bread, golden brown with a splash of molasses, and moist with rolled oats. Nobody makes this bread better than heritage activist Catherine Hennessey. One of her batches makes enough for her to give some away – and enjoy the rest with guests.

2 cups (500 ml) large-flake rolled oats

1/4 cup (50 ml) granulated sugar

2 tsp. (10 ml) salt

3/4 cup (175 ml) fancy molasses

2 Tbsp. (30 ml) butter

4 cups (1 L) boiling water

1 tsp. (5 ml) granulated sugar

1/2 cup (125 ml) lukewarm water

1 Tbsp. (15 ml) active dry yeast

7 to 8 cups (1.75 to 2 L) all-purpose flour

Into a large bowl, measure rolled oats, 1/4 cup (50 ml) sugar, salt, molasses and butter. Pour in boiling water; stir to blend. Let cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, in a liquid measuring cup, stir 1 tsp. (5 ml) sugar into lukewarm water. Sprinkle with yeast; let stand until bubbly, about 10 to 15 minutes. Stir into rolled oats mixture.

Stir in flour, 1 cup (250 ml) at a time until dough is too stiff to mix with wooden spoon. Turn out onto counter generously floured with some of remaining flour. Knead, working dough vigorously in push, fold, turn and push-again motion until stretchy, adding as much of remaining flour as you need and knead. Note that dough will be slightly soft, even a tad sticky. Dust with flour.

Butter large clean bowl; add dough and turn to coat on all sides. Cover bowl with airtight top (plastic wrap or cover) and let rise in warm spot until doubled in bulk, about 1-1/2 hours.

Turn out onto floured counter; press to flatten into rectangle. Divide into four portions. Roll each into loaf shape; pinch edge and ends to seal. Nestle in 4 buttered 8- x 4-inch (1.5 L) loaf pans. (Or, use three 9- x 5-inch/2 L loaf pans.) Cover with clean kitchen towel and let rise in warm spot until doubled in bulk, about 1-1/2 hours.

Bake in centre of 350F. (180C.) oven until aroma of baking bread takes over kitchen and bottom of loaves sounds hollow when tapped, about 50 to 60 minutes. Remove loaves from pans to cool on rack. (Make-ahead: Enclose in airtight contains such as plastic freezer bags and freeze for up to 1 month. Remove from bag to thaw.)

Makes 4 loaves. Use some to make friends.

GREAT GEORGE OATMEAL DATE MUFFINS

Some people consider Great George to be the most important street in Canada. It is, after all, the street the Fathers of Confederation walked on their way from Charlottetown harbour to Province House back in 1864 to attend the conference that laid the foundation for Confederation in 1867. It is also lined with historic houses, some of whom have been gathered into the fold of the Inns on Great George, a very recommendable place to stay in Charlottetown. One of the features of the boutique hotel I like are the breakfasts – serve yourself fruit, quiche, cereal, yogurt and a table of home baking that includes a changing array of biscuits, muffins and quick breads. Among them you will often find muffins, including these lovely ones.

1-1/2 cups (375 ml) all-purpose flour

1 cup (250 ml) quick-cooking rolled oats

1 Tbsp. (15 ml) baking powder

1 tsp. (5 ml) salt

1 large egg

1 cup (250 ml) milk

1/3 cup (75 ml) canola oil

1/4 cup (50 ml) liquid honey

3/4 cup (175 ml) chopped dates

Line 10 muffin cups with paper liners, or butter; set aside.

In large bowl, whisk together flour, rolled oats, baking powder and salt; set aside.

In separate bowl, whisk together egg, milk, oil and honey. Scrape over dry ingredients; sprinkle with dates.

Stir just long enough to combine dry and wet ingredients. Scoop into prepared muffin cups.

Bake in centre of 375F. (180C.) oven until skewer inserted into centre of one of muffins comes out clean, about 18 to 20 minutes. Let firm up in muffin cups for a few minutes; let cool on rack. (Make-ahead: To best maintain freshness wrap muffins individually, then enclose in airtight container.

Makes 10 muffins.

TIP: Add 2 tsp. (10 ml) grated orange rind.

Check out The Great George, 85 Great George Street in Charlottetown at thegreatgeorge.com.

PEI MUSSELS

With beer, with white wine, with tomato sauce or more, mussels are a favourite on PEI restaurant menus. One of the best ways I have ever tasted mussels is with a curry, ginger and cream broth, a signature dish called Bombay Mussels from Charlottetown restaurant Flex Mussels, alas no longer in business. The recipe has been slightly adapted.

2 lb (1kg) mussels

1 tsp (5 mL) vegetable oil

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1 tsp (5 mL) finely chopped gingerroot

2 tbsp (30 mL) mango puree or finely diced mango

1 tbsp (15 mL) mild curry paste, Patak recommended

1/4 cup (50 mL) white wine

1/2 cup (125 mL) whipping cream (35%)

1/4 tsp (1 mL) sesame oil

4 full sprigs of fresh washed coriander (cilantro), roots removed and chopped

Half lime

1 crusty French baguette, sliced.

Check mussels, discarding any that don't close when tapped. A little gape is not unusual for cultivated mussels. Fresh live mussels close obediently - give them a minute or two just to be sure. Discard any that continue to gape.

Pull out and snip off any beards and rinse; set aside.

In 4 to 6 quart (4 to 6L) saucepan, heat vegetable oil over medium heat. Add garlic, ginger, mango and curry paste; fry for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Goal is to warm ingredients just enough to ‘awaken’ them. Exercise caution, as excessive heat makes curry bitter. (Combination of fresh ginger, garlic and mango is aromatherapy of the most enchanting kind.)

Stir in wine, and using wooden spoon, scrape bottom of pot smooth. Add cream, sesame oil and half of coriander. Bring to boil over high heat; add mussels. Stir to coat evenly.

Cover and steam for 4 to 6 minutes, stirring gently midway, until mussels have opened wide. Discard any that have not. Be sure to check mussels at beginning of suggested time.

Using slotted spoon, transfer mussels to warmed serving dish. Over high heat, boil sauce hard to reduce by one-third or to desired consistency, about 2 minutes. Meanwhile, squeeze fresh lime juice over mussels. Pour reduced sauce over mussels and garnish with remaining chopped coriander. Serve immediately with plenty of crusty baguette.

Makes 2 main-course servings, 4 appetizers.

TIP: A wide saucepan with a heavy bottom is best for cooking mussels. There's room for mussels to open, and covered, liquid comes back to boil immediately, steaming mussels quickly, without toughening them.

TIP: There's no mistaking the "beard" the common name for the byssus of a byvalve mussel. According to The Food Encyclopedia (Robert Rose publisher) the byssus is "made up of a network of silky filaments it secretes and uses to adhere to rocks."

CULINARY MUST-TASTE, MUST-DO IN PEI

Moonshine: In eastern PEI, visit the Myriad View Distillery in Rollo Bay and check out their Strait Lightning and Gin. Nearby, the owners of Johnson Shore Inn have developed a best selling potato vodka.

Enjoy oysters – look out for ones harvested from Colville Bay, Raspberry Point and Rocky Bay in Salutation Cove.

Visit the Saturday Charlottetown Farmers Market for organic vegetables, prize potatoes, smoked salmon, fresh lamb, PEI cheeses, plus stands that sell Lebanese, Indian, African dishes and Island sausages.

Eat at two of Canada’s finest restaurants – Dalvay by the Sea, and Inn at Bay Fortune

Check out the Lebanese food at Cedar’s Eatery in downtown Charlottetown

Tuck into a lobster, slurp up chowder or indulge in fish and chips at Water-Prince Corner Shop and Lobster Pound in historic Charlottetown.

Self-Healing Concrete Could Make Bridges and Road Structures More SolidLosing my shellfish virginity in P.E.I.