My limo driver was so proud of his home town and so enthusiastic about pointing out landmarks that, even after an overnight flight from Miami, I couldn’t help but smile — and stare — as we crept along toward the city centre in the early morning rush hour traffic.
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A jumble of urban eye-candy revealed itself at every turn — gaily painted wood and corrugated homes, funky boutiques, chic locals — called Portenos — queuing on street corners for buses, wide tree-lined avenues, shady cobblestoned lanes and — before too long — the tall intricately carved doors, delicate wrought-iron balconies and beautiful Old World architecture of Recoleta, Buenos Aires most fashionable district.
My hotel — the regal Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt — looked every inch the private mansion it was when owned by the prominent Duhau family. I was lucky enough to be checking in with colleagues for three nights to attend the Park Hyatt’s Masters of Food and Wine event.
The opulent property is actually two buildings — the antique-filled Palacio facing Avenida Alvear and the sleek but still tres chic 17-storey Posada, which contains most of the hotel’s 210 rooms and suites. Between the buildings, the terraced courtyard is a flower-filled oasis far removed from the city hubbub, and an underground art gallery passageway also links the Palacio with the Posada.
Decked out in marble, fine woods and crystal chandeliers, the hotel’s public rooms speak to Buenos Aires’ one-time wealth and standing as the “Paris of South America.”
But stately hotels and elegant city architecture are not unique, making it hard to define why Buenos Aires makes such a lasting impression, captivating not only my head but also my heart.
While it’s impossible to capture the essence of a city in a few short paragraphs, perhaps part of its allure could be:
— The vibrant neighbourhoods. From the oldest, San Telmo, to the Paris-inspired Palermo, to lively working class La Boca, to Montserrat, home to the pinkish government house Casa Rosada, to Recoleta and its famous cemetery, to the rehabilitated docklands of Puerto Madero and the downtown districts of Retiro and San Nicolas. Everywhere you go, the streets are filled with Portenos — working, shopping, dining, playing soccer in the streets and enjoying their city.
— Recoleta Cemetery. The city’s oldest cemetery, and a major tourist attraction, is the final resting place for Buenos Aires elite including beloved former first lady Evita Peron, military leaders, presidents, scientists and poets. Open daily from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., there is no cost to wander among the 6,400-plus ornate mausoleums, which are spread over four city blocks. A map is available for about 25ў and free English tours take place Tuesdays and Thursdays at 11 a.m. Home to some 80 cats, and a few ghosts, Recoleta is a riot of architectural styles with Greek temples, pyramids, fluted columns, sculptures, carvings and more.
— A modern meets vintage vibe: Despite its centuries old architecture, Buenos Aires is very much a city of the 21st century. While the lore — and lure — of tango is kept alive in tango clubs and tourist areas, hip young Portenos are more likely to dine out on pizza before heading to clubs to dance until dawn.
n The people: Despite being South America’s second largest city (3 million residents in the city centre, 13 million in the greater metropolitan area) Buenos Aires is a friendly place. About 80% of Argentines are descended from Spanish and Italian immigrants, so there is a European style cafe culture, European style dining and an appreciation for European arts.
But there is a new world vibe as well — one that reflects Argentina’s past political and economic struggles — and great national pride in things that are uniquely Argentinian such as the country’s abundant natural beauty, its gaucho history and its sophisticated wine industry.
My brief visit only scratched the surface of Buenos Aires so when it was time to leave the city tugged at my heart with the promise of discoveries yet to be made. The limo arrived at dusk and the driver announced the highway was clogged and it would be a slow trip to the airport on local roads, which allowed me one long backwards glance at streets that were now comfortingly familiar.
If you go To Argentina
TOURISM INFORMATION
For travel information, visit the Argentina National Institute for Tourism Promotion at argentina.travel. Canadian tourists do not required a visa to enter Argentina but are charged a reciprocity fee ($70 US for one entry) on arrival at Buenos Aires Ezeiza International Airport. The fee is payable in cash, by credit card or by traveller’s cheque before clearing immigration.
robin.robinson@sunmedia.ca
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