First attempted during Roman times, appassimento sees harvested clusters of grapes left to dry on racks prior to vinification. The process concentrates the aroma and flavour compounds of the grapes.
Over the past 50 years, the Boscaini family has streamlined production methods, learning how to best control temperature and humidity to maximize the drying effect. In turn, they have broadened their horizons beyond their native Veronese homeland to new frontiers in Fruili and Mendoza, Argentina.
According to Boscaini, technical director for Masi Agricola, what appassimento really does is “add personality to the wine.”
That personality is best viewed in Masi’s popular Costasera Amarone Classico, which is produced from 100 percent dried grapes, and its Campofiorin, which is made by fermenting freshly harvested grapes with a percentage of semi-dried fruit. These rich and concentrated reds have long been best sellers across Canada.
The concentrating effect of drying grapes makes sense given the cooler climate and marginal growing conditions of Italy’s Veneto region. It also has potential applications for Canada’s cool climate regions, which is why Boscaini was speaking about a potential collaboration this past Sunday morning to a group of Ontario winemakers, researchers and grape growers.
Boscaini sees the benefits of employing drying techniques to coax more flavour and intensity from grapes picked at moderate ripeness as well as make more powerful wines.
Beyond matters of wine quality, a lucrative benefit of embracing appassimento techniques is what he terms the unique selling opportunity it presents. “You give something more to the finished wine — a different personality, a different style.”
That’s why appassimento plays such a large role in the establishment of its winery in Argentina. Masi’s Mendoza vineyards don’t lack for sun or heat, but the drying of Malbec and Corvina grapes is still conducted to give more interest and intensity to the finished wine.
“Of course, we have enough sun (to fully ripen the grapes), but we don’t have enough personality,” says Boscaini.
Clearly, the success Masi has enjoyed with appassimento has come on both technical and marketing fronts. It’s proven to make better wine. It’s also proven to give a compelling story that makes selling that wine a little easier.
Wine of the Week:
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Masi Agricola 2007 Passo Doble Malbec Corvina
Tupungato, Argentina
BC AB $15.99 (225813) | MB $15 | ON $13.95 (620880)
Famous Italian producer Masi produces this richly concentrated red wine at its Argentine estate by blending Malbec and Corvina, which is partially dried to intensify sugar and flavour compounds. Look for spice and fruitcake notes that would pair nicely with barbecued red meat and game.
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