Princess Cruises a regal itinerary

Princess Cruises has an ideal summer itinerary combining visits to several "tropical" islands on an impressive ship with a convenient close-to-home port.

While considering options for an early June cruise, we also wanted several leisurely days at sea and to visit some far-away "exotic" locales.

So, we didn't hesitate in booking passage on the Caribbean Princess, sailing nine days roundtrip from New York City to Bermuda and to the Caribbean ports of San Juan, Puerto Rico, St. Thomas, Virgin Islands and Grand Turk in the Turks and Caicos.

This was designed to introduce our son, Jeff, daughter-in-law Lisa and grandson Adam, three, to big-ship cruising.

Sailing from New York is a must-do experience, in this case from the Red Hook Terminal in Brooklyn.

"It doesn't get much better than sailing with the Manhattan skyline in the distance, passing the Statue of Liberty and going under the Verrazano Bridge," said Karen Candy, Princess publicist.

The immense size of the 18-deck ship stretching to the sky made it seem like it just narrowly squeezed under the bridge, with the stacks just clearing it.

"I am always a little nervous and tell everyone to look up at the top of the ship to see just how close we come to the bridge," said Captain Marco Fortezze as the vessel headed out into the Atlantic Ocean. Adam congratulated him with a "high five."

This itinerary is "extremely popular," offering a tropical escape with the convenience of sailing roundtrip out of New York, Candy said.

We avoided the airline hassles and expense by taking an eight-hour drive along the New York Thruway, through picturesque lush green hills, forests and lakes of Pennsylvania and into New Jersey.

Stopping for the night at an inn in East Rutherford, N.J., it was less than an hour to the port the next morning with convenient parking beside the ship ($20 US daily fee). The GPS guiding us through the Manhattan maze paid for itself on this trip alone.

Arriving about noon, embarkation was a breeze and we were on the ship exploring -- searching out our staterooms and the lunch buffet -- within 20 minutes.

The Caribbean Princess is quite a sight, carrying 3,286 passengers on this 4,500-kilometre voyage.

Along with 900 balcony staterooms and a deck of mini-suites, the five-year-old ship recently added a piazza-style atrium with street entertainers, International Cafe for specialty coffees and sweet treats, and Vines, a wine, seafood and cheese bar.

There's also the adults-only retreat Sanctuary and the new alternative (extra charge) Crown Grill steak and seafood restaurant.

And, every afternoon the "cookies-and-milk" men tour the pool areas offering fresh-baked cookies and cold milk.

As the largest ship we've sailed on, it didn't feel crowded, although it got busy in the atrium and bar/club areas with the popular nighttime shows filling up quickly.

Along with traditional dining at 6 p.m. and 8:15 p.m. in the Palm Dining Room, there are two "anytime" dining rooms, the 24-hour Horizon Court and room service, Sabatini's Italian restaurant, Cafe Caribe with "themed" buffets, "ultimate" balcony dining, a pizzeria, burger and hot-dog grill and Scoops ice cream bar.

We also took part in the Chef's Table, a special treat for "foodies," hosted by executive chef Nilo Palma assisted by Giuseppe Franchina, maitre d' hotel.

This is a three-hour-plus extravaganza of sights, tastes and conversation, starting with a galley tour at dinner rush where we enjoyed French champagne and hors d'oeuvres.

The specially prepared multi-course tasting dinner paired with wine included blue crab margarita with avocado and mango, Alaskan salmon tartare, braised escargot vol-au-vent and trio of beef, veal and pork tenderloin on a "medieval spiked flambe roaster au jus."

The Caribbean Princess also has the immense "Movies under the Stars" screen where we watched the NBA finals under the stars and a full moon.

In Bermuda, we visited the aquarium and zoo that included a 45-minute boat ride from the West End dock.

In San Juan, we took the five-hour excursion to the El Yunque Rainforest and hiked beside huge waterfalls and climbed lookout towers. We strolled along the malecon (waterfront boardwalk) taking in the hot, hot, hot Saturday Latin nightlife.

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If you sail

Bermuda-Caribbean nine-day fares from New York are from $1,099 US while San Juan seven-day fares start at $599.

The Chef's Table for up to 10 diners is offered several nights a cruise, cost $75 US; reserve early.

Details: www.princess.com; 1-800-PRINCESS

Canada's top car-free islands

When it comes to creating physical—and psychological—distance from your worries, it’s hard to beat an island and a ferry. We’d argue that it’s even better when you leave your car on the mainland. After all, the best way to appreciate island life is on foot or bicycle. Here, a few of Canada’s tranquil gems:

Gambier Island, British Columbia: Surrounded by the Coast Mountain Range, Gambier feels like another world, but it’s easy to get to from Vancouver. Walk on the ferry bound for Langdale in Horseshoe Bay, then transfer to the water taxi. Make it a weekend at the Sea Cottage or Gabriels on Gambier.

Île-au-Canot, Quebec: In the fall, Québécois sportsmen catch the Croisières Lachance zodiac to this 52.5-ha (130-ac) island in the St. Lawrence River, for traditional goose and wild-turkey hunting. Make it a weekend in the Main Chalet.

Toronto Islands, Ontario: Catch a ferry from Bay Street to this, the largest urban car-free community in North America. Rent a canoe or bike and explore the kilometres of paved trails and sandy beaches. Make it a weekend by booking into one of the several B&Bs on the islands.

Lasqueti Island, British Columbia: Leave your vehicle at French Creek just north of Parksville on Vancouver Island, and hop the 60-passenger Lasqueti Ferry to a quiet, rural community that retains an authentic counterculture vibe. Make it a weekend at the eco-friendly Squitty Bay Oceanfront B&B or off-grid Lambert Lake Inn.

McNabs Island, Nova Scotia: This almost-uninhabited 395-ha (976-ac) island played a strategic role during the defense of Halifax in World War II, and is today part of a rugged and wild provincial park. Several private companies run water taxis from the mainland. Make it a weekend by reserving one of a limited number of wilderness campsites.

Stampede-worthy cuisine

The recession hadn't hit Calgary when I visited last September and oil money was keeping the high-end restaurants hopping. Although Alberta's fabled beef is a mainstay on menus, visitors will also notice bison, elk and sometimes venison.

Alistair Barnes, corporate chef for Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts, told us game accounted for half the entrees ordered at three Banff area lodges the company owns.

The lunch menu at Velvet, one of their four Calgary restaurants, included an elk Rueben sandwich, a "gameburger" and bison sirloin on a baguette. The firm has a farm where up to 600 animals roam at a time.

Veterinarian Dr. Terry Church, who showed us around, said the meat is hormone and supplement-free.

The farm is on more than 200 hectares of rolling country on Calgary's outskirts. There's a small shop open through early October, and products can also be ordered on line at crmr.com/ranch/index.php.

Smoked game from the ranch, along with fish, was on the "charcuterie board'' we shared as an appetizer at The Ranche, a gracious restaurant in a century-old former ranch house in Calgary's Fish Creek Provincial Park. For a main course, try the beef tenderloin.

Lunch at River Cafe, in flower-filled Prince's Island Park on the Bow River, right downtown, was a treat. Chef Scott Pohorelic told us dealing directly with 15 local farmers has led them to think of each ingredient as "something special."

Four of us shared several appetizers and main courses, including red lentil hummus, beet salad with goat cheese, a tarragon tomato tart, morel mushroom perogies, and a superb piece of pacific halibut.

We skipped dessert because next stop was the headquarters of Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut. Callebaut, who lives just outside Calgary, has 28 stores in Canada. Only two are in the East (London and Oakville) but orders can be made through bernardcallebaut.com. You can watch the chocolate-making process from a viewing corridor.

Our last Calgary dinner was impressive, this time at Chef's Table in our hotel, Kensington Riverside Inn. Besides an a la carte menu, there's a tasting one that runs $110 per person ($60 more for wine pairings). Roasted Alaskan sablefish (also called black cod) was my favourite.

This 19-room boutique hotel is an AAA Four Diamond property with a friendly, attentive staff. Rates include breakfast and parking. Visit kensingtonriversideinn.com.

Money-saver: The Orlando/Orange County Visitors Bureau is making a deal available every week as part of its Bundle of Free Smiles campaign. Visit the Deal of the Week section at visitorlando.com/smile for details.

Three for the road

MONIEUX, France -- On a road trip through the south of France last summer, I hoped to find the place I'd come to love from reading Peter Mayle's A Year in Provence and his other books. But I worried that the Provence of my dreams might be over-commercialized and overrun by tourists.

Happily I did find what I was looking for, but not always where I expected it. Yes, I went to the popular tourist jaunts -- an amphitheatre built by the Romans, a farmer's market, Paul Cezanne's studio in Aix-en-Provence, and Arles, where Vincent Van Gogh painted.

But what made Provence so enchanting for me was a triple sensory experience for the eyes, nose and palate -- the scenery, scents and food -- along with a detour off the beaten path to Monieux, a small town surrounded by lavender fields.

Provence is known for beautiful landscapes of cypress and olive trees amid verdant fields, with medieval towns perched seemingly precariously on hills. Lavender scents the air. And fruits, vegetables and olive oil are so fresh you're convinced farmers picked or produced them that day. The Cavaillon melon, which looks like a softball-sized cantaloupe and costs around two euros (just over $3), is the most luscious melon I have ever tasted.

Guidebooks often recommend staying in a big town with good train and bus connections, such as the very Roman Avignon and Cezanne's hometown, Aix-en-Provence. There is certainly nothing wrong with that. But to really see and feel the real Provence, stay in a small town. Rent a car and explore the country roads, which are fairly empty, even in the vacation month of August.

I felt like I'd found Mayle's Provence in the hill town of Monieux, about 65 km east of Avignon. The minute you wake up, you smell the subtle fragrance of lavender. Houses with window shutters in cheerful pastel colours dot the town while kids on bikes greet even strangers with a friendly "bonjour" as they ride by.

My friend and I stayed at a bed and breakfast called Chez Isabelle, run by Isabelle de Monies de Sagazan. A former real estate agent from Brittany, she moved to Monieux 10 years ago to pursue the country life. She has two big bedrooms to rent out for under $80 per night.

Breakfast is on the patio, with a small view that overlooks lavender fields. She served six pots of homemade jams -- my favourite was cherry mint -- as well as breads, a homemade peach pie, cereal, juice and espresso. Watch out for the cake-loving dog named Voyou, or Hooligan, lest he swipe your pastry while you're not looking.

We drove our tiny Peugeot to Sault, 6.5 km east of Monieux and the centre of lavender production in the area.

I brought my GPS, which has a map for most of Europe. I set it to find routes with the shortest distance, which bypassed freeways for more picturesque country roads. The GPS made our trip much more pleasant, since we avoided the stress of getting lost in a foreign country and it could find the nearest gas station in a jiffy.

We also rented a car with air conditioning, which is not in every rented vehicle but was welcome after a long trek, even though the weather was a pleasant 27-29C most days with a cool breeze.

Gas is more expensive in Europe than in North America, but our economy car used only a tank of gas in four days of travel. (One issue for us: Stick shifts are the norm and automatic rental cars can be hard to find.)

Sault overlooks a valley of lavender fields, so be sure to go during blooming season in July and August. Don't miss the panoramic view from the village centre. A cafe sits next to the view, where you can try lavender ice cream.

On a Tuesday afternoon there, a group of men were playing petanque, a French pastime where players compete to throw metal balls toward a target ball called cochonnet.

Provence is France and yet not purely French. Italian influences abound from the Roman amphitheatre in Arles, the town where Vincent Van Gogh cut off his ear, to the Papal palace in Avignon, the seat of popes in the 14th and 15th centuries. Gelato, tiramisu and pasta are offered side-by-side with escargot, steak and frites, and the regional Cotes du Rhone wines.

A dining delight is Le Bistrot du Paradou, near the medieval city of Les Baux. Chef Jean-Louis serves a set meal for 49 euros (about $80) per person, including a bottle of the restaurant's own wine.

We had perfectly cooked slices of red snapper as an appetizer, France's famously flavourful Bresse chicken for the entree, a plate of cheeses including the smelly but delectable Normandy epoisse and dessert. Even the olive oil was so fragrant that we couldn't stop sopping it up with our bread.

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BOTTOM LINE

PROVENCE

For tourism information, see tinyurl.com/dxzj85.

HIGHLIGHTS

- Papal palace in Avignon; bullfights in Arles; Cezanne studio in Aix-en-Provence; Wednesday morning market in Saint-Remy de Provence; Abbaye Notre-Dame de Senanque in Gordes; ruins and views in Les Baux, with nearby Cathedrale d'Images; Pont du Gard, ancient Roman aqueduct.

- Chez Isabelle: Bed and breakfast in Monieux, chez-isabelle.fr/. Rates: 45 or 50 euros ($72-$80). Le Bistrot du Paradou 57 Ave. de la Vallee des Baux, Le Paradou. Phone: 011-33-4-90-54-32-70. Closed Sundays and Mondays.

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HERE ARE OTHER HIGHLIGHTS

ARLES

Van Gogh cut off his ear in this city and spent time in a hospital. He also painted some of his most recognizable works here, including Still Life: Vase with Fifteen Sunflowers, Starry Night Over the Rhone, The Yellow House and The Cafe Terrace on the Place du Forum, Arles, at Night.

We also watched the course camarguaise, or bull game, in the Roman arena, where people dressed in white try to pull a ribbon off the horn of a bull without getting hurt.

AIX-EN-PROVENCE

The hometown of Cezanne, the Impressionist painter. A highlight is a visit to his studio, where he painted Les Grandes Baigneuses. Small metal "C" markings on the streets lead you to the house where he was born and his favourite viewing points.

SAINT-REMY DE PROVENCE

The Wednesday morning market is one of the biggest in Provence. Merchants sell food, herbs, ceramics, clothes, linens, jewelry and other items.

GORDES

It is a well-preserved medieval town perched on a hill and one of the prettiest in the Luberon. But it can get crowded, especially during the summer. Nearby, the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Senanque, a 12th century abbey, is popular to visitors for its rows of lavender, gift shop and tour.

LES BAUX

It is a city with a clifftop sprawl of ruins with panoramic views all around. Once controlled by The Lords of Baux, who had ties to the Grimaldis of Monaco, the city later became a centre of Protestantism. It was destroyed in the 17th century for its association with the Huguenots.

Not to be missed is the Cathedrale d'Images nearby, which is an ancient quarry with a spectacular artistic light and sound show. Currently playing is a show about Picasso's art.

AVIGNON

A former papal centre, the city boasts a towering medieval palace and Pont St. Benezet, a bridge that is the "Pont d'Avignon" of French nursery rhymes. Sixteen miles east of Avignon is Pont du Gard, a 2,000-year-old Roman aqueduct and engineering marvel.

Getaways worth the drive

Looking to holiday closer to home this year? Consider two of my favourite parts of Ontario, the Kawartha Lakes and the Haliburton Highlands.

The Kawarthas -- think Peterborough -- is a ruggedly beautiful land of lakes and rivers, forests and rock outcroppings. The Haliburton Highlands, Muskoka's eastern neighbour, has all that plus hills big enough to ski.

My wife and I have just revisited both, overnighting at three properties, all members of Resorts Ontario and open year round.

I've quoted their summer rates, but prices are substantially lower the rest of the year. My personal preference would be late September-early October, when fall colour is usually at its finest.

PINE VISTA RESORT

Where: On Stoney Lake, just north of Lakefield, about a four-hour drive from London.

What: 25 two- and three-bedroom housekeeping cottages/townhouses. The one assigned to us had two bedrooms, a bathroom with a jacuzzi tub, a big kitchen/dining room/living room with a TV and DVD player, a water view and a deck with a propane barbecue.

Amenities include swimming pool, small sand beach, playground, games room, fitness room, availability of massage therapist, recreation programs for children and adults, and a new "eco-walk'' through a signposted marsh area. Guests have golf and dining privileges at Wildfire, a private club just down the road.

Utilizing pull-out couches, units can accommodate large numbers, making Pine Vista particularly well suited for family gatherings, girlfriend getaways and the like.

How much: There are several packages and specials. For example, a seven-night Summer Fun Family Getaway starts at $1,510 based on four persons sharing a two-bedroom unit.

Information: Phone 1-800-634-2848 or visit www.pinevista.com.

BURLEIGH ISLAND LODGE

Where: On Stoney Lake, on Highway 28 at Burleigh Falls, where water moving from Lower Buckhorn Lake into Stoney creates roaring rapids.

What: Eleven-room lodge, nine motel units and four cottages. Our third-floor room was spacious, with king-size bed, two-person jacuzzi tub and satellite TV, but was up two long flights of stairs and faced the highway. The motel units have two double beds, microwave, bar fridge and a screened porch with a view of Burleigh Bay.

Known as the Park Hotel for more than a century, this property has undergone a $10-million overhaul. Recycled water washes over a massive chunk of Canadian Shield and rock removed during reconstruction has been incorporated into the landscaping.

The spa and salon on site and the fact there are three golf courses within a 20-minute drive suggests this as a getaway spot for grownups.

How much: Lodge rooms start at $175 in summer, motel units at $215.

Information: Phone 1-877-565-0479 or visit www.burleighislandlodge.com.

SIR SAM'S INN

Where: On Eagle Lake, just north of Haliburton, about a five-hour drive from London.

What: Twenty-five guest rooms, most in the main inn or a separate lakeside building. All overlook the water. Our second-floor inn room had king-size bed, wood-burning fireplace, bar fridge and whirlpool tub.

Rates usually include either breakfast or breakfast and dinner. Our meals were excellent. Three choices of appetizer and four of a main course were offered at dinner. The hit at breakfast was cheese scones my mother-in-law, who knew a thing or two about baking, would have been proud to serve.

There are tennis courts and an outdoor pool, and a ski club nearby, but was really impressed me was the WaterSpa, a gorgeous room where guests can follow a circuit that focuses heated, salinated water on different parts of the body.

Definitely a spot for couples.

How much: Summer rates start at $265 per couple per night for B&B, $365 with breakfast and dinner. Ask about packages.

Information: Phone 1-800-361-2188 or visit www.sirsamsinn.com.

Haute in the Highlands

KENMORE, Scotland -- I never expected in my ancestor's homeland to spend a super evening with ex-South Africa president Nelson Mandela's chef -- owner of a 1649 drover's inn beside a misty loch. But discovering cuisines in Scotland today exceeds common conceptions about haggis, hairy Highland cattle and sheep.

Beside Loch Tay, the Ardeonaig Hotel & Restaurant's walls are lined with fabulous black-and-white photographs owner Pete Gottgens' family took in South Africa. Tired of London -- where the Durban-born hotel chef's son had four restaurants over 12 years -- he bought the inn after looking six years for his own place.

"I did too much salmon-fishing," and fell in love with the Highlands, Gottgens said. Standing looking in the window of the "decrepit" building in 2003, "I fell in love with the place."

With $3.5 million invested, 150 sheep, a fruit orchard and 5.75 hectares of shoreline to play with, Gottgens has one of Scotland's most unusual resorts.

Beside a stream overlooking a crumbling 16th-century stone castle tower, the gently sloping lawn has fruit trees, berry bushes and rondevels -- a Scottish Crannog hut crossed with a South African mud hut.

Over a four-hour gourmet meal, the staff served halibut, Atlantic "escapee" salmon -- not farm-raised, therefore leaner -- sea bass, Orkney Island scallops, quail eggs, smoked haddock, and hare, plus local veggies, fruit and herbs.

Conversations flowed, perhaps aided by samples from the well-stocked wine cellar.

Gottgens first cooked for Mandela after a consulate official saw his restaurant leaflet distributed at a Trafalgar Square rally. At his first London eatery the next day, he was invited "for a chat" and began a seven-year relationship with the new president.

Summoned whenever he visited Europe, even after his presidency ended in 1999, Gottgens met leaders such as U.S. President Bill Clinton and cooked for Tony Blair when he hosted Mandela at 10 Downing St., the London residence of Great Britain's prime minister.

The chef even wrote a children's cookbook at the former South African president's home.

"Sometimes he'll call ... he wished me luck on the phone the day before our reopening," Gottgens said, before we luxuriated in Mandela's favourite dessert, which he created -- a hard, dark chocolate ball that oozed delectable hot chocolate when pierced.

At breakfast next morning, I was intrigued by a framed photo of a young cheetah sitting upright in a 1950s car behind Gottgen's grandmother. Both Bydie Kinnloch and her pet were obviously enthralled by something nearby.

The photos remind her grandson and guests of his roots.

Much planning went into this lovely four-star estate and, as we walked near its seaplane dock, Gottgens predicted a sunken garden, an outdoor theatre, a baked bread stand.

"What we offer is slightly different from anywhere else," Gottgens said.

"It's a place I'd like to visit. I've stayed in every bedroom, sometimes three or four times. It's important to know what you're offering."

He cherishes a close relationship with many locals, including suppliers, but only his 57-year-old Glaswegian pot washer is Scottish.

Employing young foreign workers, sometimes "just long enough to save money to afford to travel," adds to the atmosphere in a land which, until Queen Victoria's aide wrote about the Highlands in the 1880s, was not thought of as a traveller's destination.

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CLACHAN, Scotland -- Let's do lunch!

Among several fine places visited for mid-day repasts, the Cairndow Oyster Bar & Restaurant was a special treat.

With nearby Loch Fyne's status as the U.K.'s largest exporter of oysters for 30 years, they are certainly a mainstay at the roadside converted "cow byre," which includes a fresh seafood takeaway shop.

Food critics highly recommend their oysters on ice, with several dressings.

Several companions agreed but I chose scallops. Superb!

It was not always so.

In Victorian times, Loch Fyne was over-harvested. Almost 40 years ago, Pacific oysters were imported to reseed the beds, but original Rock Oysters later "came back" bountifully.

One year after the founder died in 2002, the Loch Fyne Oysters Ltd. shares were bought by 100 employees, which included this lovely roadside eatery, the oyster farms and smokehouses that supply the associated but separate restaurant chain. Under different ownership, the U.K. has 38 Loch Fyne Oyster Bars and Restaurants.

This is a pleasant setting to while away an hour or two.

Tables and booths accommodate groups and couples. With prices ranging from $7.25 to $55, the day-long menu includes shellfish, smoked fish, white fish dishes, Scottish beef steaks, vegetarian dishes, home-made desserts and Scottish cheese. Despite seating for about 100, booking ahead is a must, especially on weekends.

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KINROSE, Scotland -- While visiting an outdoor market in the lee of famous Edinburgh Castle, my travel-writing group learned many Scottish restaurants focus on home-grown and organic foods.

Our first stop the next day was here at Loch Levens Larder, a 202-hectare farm, which not only specializes in local produce, but also has a shop and deli offering fresh veggies, cheeses, breads, kitchen aids and crafts, plus a recent coffee shop overlooking gorgeous walking trails.

Raised in Perthshire, owner Rob Niven eight years ago bought the farm his grandparents were tenants on in the 1940s. His main crops are Brussels sprouts, broccoli, potatoes, leaks, carrots, "and we do our own breads."

The business, now with three farm and 54 shop-cafe employees, was launched partly due to frustrations Niven and wife Emma experienced over stores stocking mostly pre-packed produce shipped across the country, sometimes from overseas, often lacking the fresh taste of vegetables due to over-washing and plastic packaging.

There is also a growing movement towards locally grown food.

Emma Niven said "the government is going into areas, trying to educate people on healthy eating."

Her husband said "Scotland doesn't have a good reputation for food," with widespread heart disease linked to fatty food diets.

Niven understands families on limited budgets can save money at chain stores, but "more people want to know where their food comes from and some supermarkets are now our best customers."

Loch Levens Larder's success is also based on the farm's setting, far from crowded downtowns and potential parking tickets, plus confidence that "our veggies last longer," Niven said. "We want people to enjoy the experience of driving out here rather than parking downtown and going to a supermarket and maybe get a ticket."

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BOTTOMLINE

ARDEONAIG HOTEL & RESTAURANT

About two-hour's drive from Edinburgh or Glasgow, 20 minutes by seaplane.

Prices per person for hotel rooms, $135-to-$223, including breakfast; cottages or rondavels $270. Dinner is $45 per guest. Dogs welcome.

There is hiking, boating, cycling, fishing, golfing, safaris, and much history.Five-day cooking courses start at the end of this year.

For details and directions, see ardeonaighotel.co.uk.

LOCH FYNE OYSTER BAR

On Hwy. A83, 10 minutes drive northeast of Inveraray, 75 minutes northwest of Glasgow. For information, e-mail oyster.bar@lochfyne.com.

LOCH LEVENS LARDER

Open May-October, one hour's drive north of Edinburgh. From Edinburgh, take the M90 highway from Queensferry, east from Kinross. For map routes, and details, see lochlevenslarder.com.

TIPS

- I highly recommend Rabbie's Trail Burners Ltd., which provided our motorcoach and highly knowledgeable driver. See rabbies.com.

- This is Homecoming Scotland 2009 with events happening throughout 2009. Edinburgh will be the site of The Gathering 2009 on July 25-26. Clan members from around the world will assemble for the largest-ever Highland Games, at Holyrood Park.

MORE INFORMATION

For tourism information, check visitscotland.com.

For information about Homecoming Scotland 2009 events, check HomecomingScotland.com.

Value in vines

SONOMA, Calif. - With a wedding planned for California's wine country in the middle of the recession, my fiance and I worried not just about what we were spending, but also about our guests. After all, the July event is taking place in a region where US$400-a-night hotel rooms and $240 fixed price meals can intimidate even the most budget-savvy traveller.

But there are values in the vineyards, as we've found through multiple trips to Sonoma and Napa counties the past few months to plan the "Big Day." So whether it's a day trip or a longer escape, the luxury of the wine country doesn't have to sip you dry. Here are some tips.

PICK A PLACE AND AN ADVENTURE: Having a home base can save you money and time. Hotels give reduced rates on multiple night stays and sometimes even bundle experiences in that area. Book a room and you also get a spa package, gas card or other extras. There are also cottages that offer weekly stays, and with a kitchen and several bedrooms, that may end up being cheaper for families.

Centring yourself in one area also saves gas and having to pack and unpack, a situation that never lets you feel fully relaxed. While wine country is vast, you can experience a lot of it while still staying at one location and focusing your interests.

If back country roads and out-of-the-way wineries are your thing, the Dry Creek and Alexander valleys in northern Sonoma County will be your speed. Rent a bike at Spoke Folk Cyclery in Healdsburg - http://www.spokefolk.com/, $30 a day, $10 an hour - grab one of their maps and a sandwich from a deli on the square or the nearby Safeway grocery and pedal on largely flat, quiet roads to the picnic areas at Everett Ridge (great view) or Lambert Bridge (lovely garden - so lovely we're getting married in it) wineries.

The Silverado Trail in Napa is also a popular path for cyclists. The road stretches about 40 kilometres and takes pedallers from Napa through, Yountville, St. Helena and Calistoga. Wineries dot this route and there are plenty of places for a picnic.

If you prefer soaking more than cycling, head to Calistoga for a mineral or mud bath at Golden Haven Hot Springs Spa and Resort. The resort has affordable packages when compared to other spas in the area, including one night's lodging and mineral bath starting at less than $100 a person and a mud bath for $49 a person - http://www.goldenhaven.com/. While in Calistoga, visit Sterling Vineyards, where an aerial tram gives unbelievable views of the Napa Valley. The $20 fee includes tram, self-guided tour and tasting of five wines; under 21, $10 and under three is free, http://www.sterlingvineyards.com.

The Sonoma hamlet of Glen Ellen lets you walk in the footsteps of "Call of the Wild" writer Jack London, who attempted to build his dream home on this tree-studded property with gorgeous vineyard views, only to have it burn down before he could ever live in it - http://www.jacklondonpark.com/, $6 parking, $5 for seniors.

EAT FRESH: Sonoma and Napa counties are foodie paradises and the pricey restaurants prove it. But get the same fruits, vegetables and meats the chefs do with visits to the local farmers markets. You can find fresh baked bread to top off with slices of juicy tomatoes and fancy cheeses that will melt in your mouth. Oxbow Public Market in Napa even has a wine bar, jazz night and one merchant is even offering a cooking class, http://www.oxbowpublicmarket.com/.

There are deals to be had at the high-end restaurants, though. Cyrus in Healdsburg, for example, has an eye-popping - for budget travellers at least - $130-a-person eight-course menu, but you can eat a la carte at the bar to soak up the atmosphere and the gourmet food for around $10-$28, http://www.cyrusrestaurant.com/.

TASTE FREE: No reason to pay for your drinks - $5-$15 a winery adds up - if you can get them for free. Korbel Champagne Cellars in Guernville has free tours and complimentary tastings. The cellar tour is 50 minutes and gives you a peek into the antique vaults and history museum and shows how champagne is made, http://www.korbel.com/.

August Briggs on the southern edge of Calistoga also has free tastings of four to five wines. Frank Family Vineyards, also in Calistoga, offers free tastings Monday-Thursday. The website NapaValley.com has coupons for two-for-one tastings at some wineries and other freebies.

ENJOY AN OUTDOOR SHOW: There's more to wine country than wine. Several festivals going on throughout the summer in Napa and Sonoma counties offer free music and other performances outdoors. "Napa City Nights" is a free concert series at Veterans Memorial Park in Napa. The park also hosts movie nights, as does the Windsor Town Green. Shakespeare also comes to life in performances at the Windsor green, http://www.olddowntownwindsor.com/. Check the chambers of commerce or tourism websites for the town you'll base yourself in for more listings.

SHOP OUTLETS: It's fun to browse items in the cute shops that line many town squares throughout wine country and you can often find bargains at thrift stores and consignment shops. But for brand names, head to the Napa Premium Outlets and the Petaluma Village Premium Outlets, http://www.premiumoutlets.com.

GETTING THERE: The Charles M. Schulz Sonoma County Airport in Santa Rosa serves the area, but San Francisco International Airport and Oakland International Airport are only about 100 kilometres away from wine country and have more flights daily on more carriers.

STAYING THERE: The Holiday Inn Express - http://www.sonomahi.com/ - and Hampton Inn hotels in Windsor - http://hamptoninn.hilton.com/ - are modern, clean and have pools, free WiFi and free breakfasts. They're also right off the 101 freeway, making them a great base for exploring Sonoma County. The California Association of Bed and Breakfasts has a long list of options, http://www.cabbi.com/. Besides breakfast, many B&Bs also have complimentary evening wine and cheese tastings that will save you from spending money on appetizers at a restaurant.