Beside Loch Tay, the Ardeonaig Hotel & Restaurant's walls are lined with fabulous black-and-white photographs owner Pete Gottgens' family took in South Africa. Tired of London -- where the Durban-born hotel chef's son had four restaurants over 12 years -- he bought the inn after looking six years for his own place.
"I did too much salmon-fishing," and fell in love with the Highlands, Gottgens said. Standing looking in the window of the "decrepit" building in 2003, "I fell in love with the place."
With $3.5 million invested, 150 sheep, a fruit orchard and 5.75 hectares of shoreline to play with, Gottgens has one of Scotland's most unusual resorts.
Beside a stream overlooking a crumbling 16th-century stone castle tower, the gently sloping lawn has fruit trees, berry bushes and rondevels -- a Scottish Crannog hut crossed with a South African mud hut.
Over a four-hour gourmet meal, the staff served halibut, Atlantic "escapee" salmon -- not farm-raised, therefore leaner -- sea bass, Orkney Island scallops, quail eggs, smoked haddock, and hare, plus local veggies, fruit and herbs.
Conversations flowed, perhaps aided by samples from the well-stocked wine cellar.
Gottgens first cooked for Mandela after a consulate official saw his restaurant leaflet distributed at a Trafalgar Square rally. At his first London eatery the next day, he was invited "for a chat" and began a seven-year relationship with the new president.
Summoned whenever he visited Europe, even after his presidency ended in 1999, Gottgens met leaders such as U.S. President Bill Clinton and cooked for Tony Blair when he hosted Mandela at 10 Downing St., the London residence of Great Britain's prime minister.
The chef even wrote a children's cookbook at the former South African president's home.
"Sometimes he'll call ... he wished me luck on the phone the day before our reopening," Gottgens said, before we luxuriated in Mandela's favourite dessert, which he created -- a hard, dark chocolate ball that oozed delectable hot chocolate when pierced.
At breakfast next morning, I was intrigued by a framed photo of a young cheetah sitting upright in a 1950s car behind Gottgen's grandmother. Both Bydie Kinnloch and her pet were obviously enthralled by something nearby.
The photos remind her grandson and guests of his roots.
Much planning went into this lovely four-star estate and, as we walked near its seaplane dock, Gottgens predicted a sunken garden, an outdoor theatre, a baked bread stand.
"What we offer is slightly different from anywhere else," Gottgens said.
"It's a place I'd like to visit. I've stayed in every bedroom, sometimes three or four times. It's important to know what you're offering."
He cherishes a close relationship with many locals, including suppliers, but only his 57-year-old Glaswegian pot washer is Scottish.
Employing young foreign workers, sometimes "just long enough to save money to afford to travel," adds to the atmosphere in a land which, until Queen Victoria's aide wrote about the Highlands in the 1880s, was not thought of as a traveller's destination.
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CLACHAN, Scotland -- Let's do lunch!
Among several fine places visited for mid-day repasts, the Cairndow Oyster Bar & Restaurant was a special treat.
With nearby Loch Fyne's status as the U.K.'s largest exporter of oysters for 30 years, they are certainly a mainstay at the roadside converted "cow byre," which includes a fresh seafood takeaway shop.
Food critics highly recommend their oysters on ice, with several dressings.
Several companions agreed but I chose scallops. Superb!
It was not always so.
In Victorian times, Loch Fyne was over-harvested. Almost 40 years ago, Pacific oysters were imported to reseed the beds, but original Rock Oysters later "came back" bountifully.
One year after the founder died in 2002, the Loch Fyne Oysters Ltd. shares were bought by 100 employees, which included this lovely roadside eatery, the oyster farms and smokehouses that supply the associated but separate restaurant chain. Under different ownership, the U.K. has 38 Loch Fyne Oyster Bars and Restaurants.
This is a pleasant setting to while away an hour or two.
Tables and booths accommodate groups and couples. With prices ranging from $7.25 to $55, the day-long menu includes shellfish, smoked fish, white fish dishes, Scottish beef steaks, vegetarian dishes, home-made desserts and Scottish cheese. Despite seating for about 100, booking ahead is a must, especially on weekends.
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KINROSE, Scotland -- While visiting an outdoor market in the lee of famous Edinburgh Castle, my travel-writing group learned many Scottish restaurants focus on home-grown and organic foods.
Our first stop the next day was here at Loch Levens Larder, a 202-hectare farm, which not only specializes in local produce, but also has a shop and deli offering fresh veggies, cheeses, breads, kitchen aids and crafts, plus a recent coffee shop overlooking gorgeous walking trails.
Raised in Perthshire, owner Rob Niven eight years ago bought the farm his grandparents were tenants on in the 1940s. His main crops are Brussels sprouts, broccoli, potatoes, leaks, carrots, "and we do our own breads."
The business, now with three farm and 54 shop-cafe employees, was launched partly due to frustrations Niven and wife Emma experienced over stores stocking mostly pre-packed produce shipped across the country, sometimes from overseas, often lacking the fresh taste of vegetables due to over-washing and plastic packaging.
There is also a growing movement towards locally grown food.
Emma Niven said "the government is going into areas, trying to educate people on healthy eating."
Her husband said "Scotland doesn't have a good reputation for food," with widespread heart disease linked to fatty food diets.
Niven understands families on limited budgets can save money at chain stores, but "more people want to know where their food comes from and some supermarkets are now our best customers."
Loch Levens Larder's success is also based on the farm's setting, far from crowded downtowns and potential parking tickets, plus confidence that "our veggies last longer," Niven said. "We want people to enjoy the experience of driving out here rather than parking downtown and going to a supermarket and maybe get a ticket."
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BOTTOMLINE
ARDEONAIG HOTEL & RESTAURANT
About two-hour's drive from Edinburgh or Glasgow, 20 minutes by seaplane.
Prices per person for hotel rooms, $135-to-$223, including breakfast; cottages or rondavels $270. Dinner is $45 per guest. Dogs welcome.
There is hiking, boating, cycling, fishing, golfing, safaris, and much history.Five-day cooking courses start at the end of this year.
For details and directions, see ardeonaighotel.co.uk.
LOCH FYNE OYSTER BAR
On Hwy. A83, 10 minutes drive northeast of Inveraray, 75 minutes northwest of Glasgow. For information, e-mail oyster.bar@lochfyne.com.
LOCH LEVENS LARDER
Open May-October, one hour's drive north of Edinburgh. From Edinburgh, take the M90 highway from Queensferry, east from Kinross. For map routes, and details, see lochlevenslarder.com.
TIPS
- I highly recommend Rabbie's Trail Burners Ltd., which provided our motorcoach and highly knowledgeable driver. See rabbies.com.
- This is Homecoming Scotland 2009 with events happening throughout 2009. Edinburgh will be the site of The Gathering 2009 on July 25-26. Clan members from around the world will assemble for the largest-ever Highland Games, at Holyrood Park.
MORE INFORMATION
For tourism information, check visitscotland.com.
For information about Homecoming Scotland 2009 events, check HomecomingScotland.com.
