Saturday, October 2, 2010

Sympathy for the devils

BRIGHTON, Tasmania -- Karl Mathiesen is trying to save the devil.

His passion for the plight of Tasmania's most iconic mammal is evident in the way he gently cradles and talks about the ferocious looking -- and sounding -- critters. The carnivorous marsupials, which exist only in Tasmania, have been considered endangered since 2008.

Mathiesen is one of a dedicated group of workers at Bonorong Wildlife Park who care for devils, and injured or orphaned animals such as wombats, pademelons, echidnas, quolls, potaroos, koalas, etc. He explains that while the park's mission is to rescue, rehabilitate and eventually return animals to the wild, the little devils can never leave the confines of Bonorong.

"It would be a death sentence," Mathiesen says. "In just 14 years, about 80% of the wild population has been wiped out from Devil Facial Tumour Disease, a rare and highly contagious cancer."

The fatal disease causes tumours to grow in and around the devil's mouth, making it hard for them to eat. Eventually tumours spread to other parts of the body.

But the 17 devils at Bonorong are healthy "so we never bring devils in from the outside and we never release them," Mathiesen says.

Bonorong is one of several organizations in Tasmania that breed devils in captivity as a hedge against extinction. Mathiesen says they are "remarkable and very intelligent creatures," and visitors are eager to learn about them and the other animals during daytime or nighttime tours.

"Devils live on their own but they are very social creatures. They come together over meals and have a social hierarchy that is fascinating to watch," Mathiesen says as he dangles a meaty bone over their enclosure and watches as they snap and snarl, and jump at the raw meat.

"They make a heck of a racket," he says. "And the dominant devil is not necessarily the biggest but usually the loudest or most feisty."

And despite their reputation for ferocity, they are actually "very shy." About the size of a small dog but with razor-sharp teeth, they can give you a nasty bite if cornered. But in the wild they avoid contact with humans, hunt only small prey and feed mainly on the carcasses of dead animals, Mathiesen says.

"Devils got off to a bad start in their relationship with humans," Mathiesen says. "Tasmania was a wild, wild place when the first settlers and convicts arrived from across the world."

Newcomers who heard their fierce nocturnal screeching "concluded the island was haunted by devils," hence the name. For decades, killing devils was sanctioned by the government but in 1941 they became a protected species.

Many of Bonorong's other residents arrive at the park after being injured or orphaned in car accidents. With so many roads in wilderness areas, Tasmania is the "roadkill capital of Australia," Mathiesen says. Often when a female marsupial is struck by a car, "there are still babies in Mom's pouch" and volunteers bring survivors to the centre.

The park -- which is funded mainly through admission fees -- currently houses 120 animals plus a large mob of about 80 kangaroos, who are also permanent residents.

Educating the public is also a priority for Bonorong.

"Nothing beats that moment -- that first point of connection between animal and human -- and the connection with nature." Mathiesen says.

Located in Brighton, about a 30-mintue drive from Hobart, Bonorong makes a great day trip for people visiting Tasmania's funky capital city. See bonorong.com.au.

Visitors to Hobart should not miss the Salamanca Market, held every Saturday year-round. It's a great place to sample local food and buy products unique to Tasmania.

The city also makes an great base for wine touring in the Coal Valley, home to dozens of wineries including Meadowbank Estate in Cambridge.

Meadowbank has a large tasting room, a lovely shop, and a restaurant serving regional cuisine. With both a wood-burning fireplace and a sunny terrace, it's a great place to sample the island's cool climate wines.

-- For travel information on Tasmania, visit Tourism Tasmania at discovertasmania.ca and Tourism Australia at australia.com.

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