“Shrek,” and his tiger-costumed pal, were busy posing for photographs with visitors in Independence Square. But the pair took a momentary break to study my map and point out the location of a popular eatery called Puzata Khata (Pot Belly Hut), which served traditional Ukrainian dishes for a reasonable price.
Ten minutes later I was seated at a large wooden table, enjoying a hearty bowl of borscht and half a dozen varenyky or dumplings (in this case made with potatoes) with sour cream, surrounded by wall murals that evoked traditional village life.
The total cost for this filling and tasty meal was roughly $2.20. I could’ve added Chicken Kiev for an extra $1.70. And there was no struggling to decipher foreign menus. All the food on offer (and there’s a lot) is on view cafeteria-style so you just point out what you want.
It didn’t take long to discover the great deals extended to a lot more than just food. The next day I travelled to the Pyrohovo Museum of Folk Architecture, a popular open-air attraction with examples of centuries-old dwellings, farmsteads, wooden churches and windmills from throughout Ukraine. There were baptisms taking place in the churches, musicians playing traditional Ukrainian instruments such as the bandura and craftspeople engaged in painting, embroidery and wood carving.
You could easily spend a pleasant day here. And to think the admission to this family friendly attraction, was only about $2. The bus ride to the site, 13 km from the city centre, was also a deal at the equivalent of about 30ў.
I was starting to really enjoy travelling in Ukraine, which, in many ways, seemed to be an unsung bargain destination. Of course, it helps that the exchange rate has been favourable for North Americans lately. During a visit last month, $1 was about 7.76 Ukraine hryvnia or UAH. That is much better (for us) than it was a few years ago when $1 got you less than 5 UAH. Of all the people I met in Kiev, it was Irina Shebueva from the Sunflower B&B Hotel, who helped me the most in navigating the city. In a country where few people speak English, her assistance was invaluable.
Passionate about all that Kiev has to offer, she seemed to light up when meeting someone who shared her enthusiasm. She told me exactly where to catch the bus to the Pyrohovo Museum and equally important, when and where to get off. And when I showed her the list of places I wanted to visit, she made calls and checked the internet for opening hours, and gave useful advice for getting around - which saved me time and money.
I visited two places she suggested, which were just metres from the bus stop for Pyrohovo. One was the huge and colourful Bessarabsky produce and flower market, where you can get free local cheese samples and inexpensive tins of caviar; and the other was the PinchukArtCentre, a leading international gallery of contemporary art with free admission. Even the art centre washrooms, which give the sense of a wacky alternative dimension, seem worthy of artistic merit.
The Sunflower’s central location, one block from Independence Square, meant I could walk to almost all the main attractions. These included St.
Michael’s Gold-Domed Monastery - recently rebuilt to resemble the original dating from 1108; the Golden Gate; the Museum of Russian Art; St.
Volodymyr’s Cathedral and the House of Chimeras, adorned with unusual exterior sculptures.
I spent several more hours walking along the atmospheric, cobblestone street of Andriyivsky Uzviz (I’d suggest walking down the street and taking the funicular back up), where rows of craft stalls were selling Soviet-era memorabilia, matryoshky dolls, hand-painted plates and other handicrafts.
Perhaps the most notable building on the street is St. Andrew’s Church, a baroque building with five domes built in 1754 that towers over the upper level of the street. Farther down is the early home of author Mikhail Bulgakov, now a museum, which is worth a visit. Here, as everywhere, Ukrainian women can be seen attired in their finest apparel, some of it so dressy it makes you wonder what they wear for special occasions.
Two must-sees are St. Sophia Cathedral - built almost a thousand years ago, it’s the oldest standing church in the city and a Unesco World Heritage Site with many of its original mosaics and frescos intact - and the Lavra, founded in 1051 and set on 28 hectares with many gold-domed churches, museums with Scythian gold artifacts, and narrow caves which contain mummified monks, believed to have healing powers.
Though I spent more time in Kiev than in other Ukraine cities, there were clearly deals to be had elsewhere. My biggest coup occurred in Odessa, where I snagged a ticket to an opera performance at the Opera and Ballet Theatre for a mere $6. And this is no ordinary venue. Built in the 1880s by the same architects who designed the Vienna State Opera, it’s renowned for its shimmering-golden interior and superb acoustics. My seat was in the 12th row. I couldn’t help but wonder what they charged for balcony seats.
My excitement at getting into a performance for the equivalent of two Toronto bus tokens, was dampened slightly however, when I went to buy a small bottle of water at the bar and learned the price ($2.50) was nearly half the cost of my ticket!
But for a great night out under $10 who’s complaining?
If you go to Ukraine
The Sunflower B&B Hotel, is in the heart of historic Kiev at Kostelnaya 9-41, one block from Independence Square. Clean, quiet, sun-filled rooms start around $127 and include breakfast and internet access. Friendly English-speaking staff are helpful. Kiev is one of the main departure/arrival points for multiple-day cruises on the Dnieper River.
Cruise passengers often spend a few extra days in the city. The distance between the Sunflower Hotel and the dock is just a short walk and a funicular ride away, so you can save on cab fare. For more, check sunflowerhotel.kiev.ua. For more on Ukraine, visit traveltoukraine.org. For cruise information, see vikingrivercruises.com.
Exchange rates at the airport (the booth with the longest line gives the best rates) are comparable to anything you’ll find throughout the country.
But note it can be difficult to exchange Canadian currency and makes sense to take euros or U.S. dollars.
To experience a bit of Ukraine close to home, check out the Toronto Ukrainian Festival in Bloor West Village, which takes place Sept. 17-19 and includes a parade on Sept. 18 at 11 a.m. For more, visit ukrainianfestival.com or call 416-410-9965.
writer@interlog.com
Top 5 restaurants in Vietnam2011 Porsche Panamera V6 Goes On Sale This Weekend
