Previous excursions to historic places in Canada offered glimpses of logging museums or rusty wagon wheels but here I stand at the very roots of a civilization that existed not hundreds but thousands of years earlier. It strikes me that this was the dwelling place for some of the world's most remarkable minds -- Aristotle, Plato, Socrates and Hippocrates -- masters of philosophy, politics and medicine.
Visitors can roam through the remains of the great temples and ancient arenas, where the forerunners of modern sports took place. The Greeks were the first to become obsessed with competitive sports and began the Olympic Games. In an open stone arena I imagine the sound of the crowd chanting at proud runners, discus throwers, wrestlers and chariot-drivers as they performed naked for the god Zeus.
The opportunity to travel back to another world in another time exists not only in Athens but everywhere in this amazing ancient country and its islands. Every corner provides opportunities to visit ruins of temples, churches and monasteries of the Greeks, the Romans, the Corinthians and the Crusaders. Even today, a road trip through the countryside will take you places where village folk live much as they did hundreds of years ago.
Cruising away from the mainland on the ferry, tiny Greek islands appear out of the mist in the Aegean Sea.
Our first stop is Delos. Believed to be the birthplace of the god Apollo and goddess Artemis, the tiny island is one of the most important mythological, historical and archaeological sites in Greece.
Ancient stone huts indicate it was inhabited 5,000 years ago. Its treasures and people are still being discovered by dedicated archeologists who live alone on the island. Archeologists are the only people allowed to spend the night for fear that treasures still hidden beneath lava rock and ashes will be disturbed.
In Hellenistic and Roman times, Delos was a prosperous trading centre. Its ruins include beautiful mosaic floors and a 5,500 seat theatre. And who would have guessed they had indoor plumbing and a crude form of flush toilets 4,000 years ago? Only men were allowed to use these public bathrooms, where engineers had funnelled a flow of running water under the latrine benches.
The island's narrow streets once bubbled with vitality and, while roaming, I can almost hear the voices of people haggling over the price of fresh fish, olive oil, spices, spears and daggers, or treasures like gold, silver and precious stones that were imported from Egypt and other ports of the ancient world. Visitors can wander through the market square, and ruins of mansions, sacred temples and monuments.
A giant phallus -- it's once massive erection broken off over time -- points toward heaven. A symbol of lewdness and even comedy in today's world, I dared not giggle. This sacred monument was once worshiped as a symbol of fertility, strength and the very creation of life.
Sadly, this world was run on slave power. Almost half of the inhabitants were slaves, who were traded and sold cheaply by the thousands in the market square each day. As a result, despite the advanced intelligence of these ancient residents, with such cheap labour there was no need to invent the machinery that now drives our modern, polluted, world. Delos is a place of serious history -- there are no snow-cones or glitzy tourist shops here.
For an entirely different experience, take another ferry to the gorgeous island of Santorini, named by the Crusaders. A massive volcanic explosion with the power of 100 atomic bombs blasted the island to smithereens almost 4,000 years ago. The eruption wiped out the ancient Minoans who lived on the island, entombing them in a layer of pumice that is still being uncovered by archeologists. Even today the semi-active volcano still boils away beneath the ocean in a giant caldera filled with sea water.
Formed out of lava, Santorini is one of the country's most magical islands. Its barren, rocky terrain is dotted with black and red beaches. Towns full of white buildings, cafes and shops are situated on high cliffs with breathtaking views and fantastic sunsets.
While there, I made a trip to the top of a mountain with a mind-blowing view to an ancient monastery named after the prophet Elijah. Although ravaged by time, it still stands and provides a home for monks to live and pray in serenity.
Yes, the beaches, the nightlife and resorts of Greece are out of this world, but hearing the echoes of voices that reach back to the beginning of time is a once in a lifetime experience.
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ISLAND OF CRETE -- I didn't know goats could climb trees. I didn't know the mythical God Zeus was born on this ancient island. And I didn't know I had the guts to drive a four-wheel-drive jeep along craggy winding roads on the edges of mountainous cliffs.
These things I learned on my once-in-a-lifetime trip to Greece and the island of Crete.
One of the largest islands in the Mediterranean Sea, booking a jeep safari to explore some of its rugged mountains, flora and quaint villages showed me more in a one-day journey than I expected.
My trip leader, George, pronounced something like Hor-hey in Greek, made the trip even more fun with his wonderful sense of humour and his knowledge of the region.
George picked me up at my hotel in the morning and we headed out in jeeps with a eight other travellers. Some of the group drove and some simply wanted sit in the back to enjoy the open air and take in the sights.
Departing from the resort town of Rethymnon, we drove along twisting mountain roads lined with vineyards, fields full of fat sheep and groves upon groves of olive trees. We stopped for a break in the village of Castello, where we bought a bag of oranges and a snack of goat cheese and bread.
Back on the road, I drove along dirt tracks and craggy bumpy roads stopping in mountain villages where time seems to have stood still and folks live as they did a hundred years ago. Friendly old ladies showed off their handmade crafts with great pride.
We visited a 15th-century monastery with a breathtaking view and a friendly Greek Orthodox priest who offered us fruit.
Later we stopped at an amazing outdoor restaurant, Axos Place, where we drank the local beer and ate from platters laden with fresh goat cheese, olives, tomatoes, souvlaki and a delicious light goat cheese pastry. In the middle of the restaurant, where trees grew among the tables, the owner milked a goat and made warm goat cheese as we watched.
The owner, also named George, heartily encouraged us to try the local drink, Rakis, made from grapes. Served in a shot glass, I tasted it with my tongue and decided not to finish it. I can't describe the taste, but it was nasty. Several brave men in our group knocked it back, made priceless ridiculous faces, then asked for another.
After this break, we continued along more breathtaking mountain tracks while listening to traditional Greek fold music on the radio.
Along these craggy roads I saw a goat, leisurely standing on a big tree branch and calmly looking at the scenery. I thought it was hilarious but my guide George assured me it's perfectly normal for goats to stand in trees.
Shrubs with exotic-looking pink flowers, which George called sfakia, seemed to grow everywhere.
Along the way we pulled off to the side of the road and reached out to grab a wild pear off of a tree. It was not quite ripe, but tangy and delicious.
Dust in my hair, grit in my teeth and a bronzy tan on my face from a day in the sun, I ended my trip with a swim in the sea before heading back to our hotel.
IF YOU GO TO GREECE
TRAVEL TIPS AND INFO
-- When touring in Greece, wear a wide brimmed sun hat and bring a small backpack and bottled water.
-- To find out how touring this mystical land can become a reality, check out Transat Holidays or transatholidays.com for flights and vacation packages. For general information, check out tourgreece.com.
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