Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Steep climb, stunning view

Climbing the fifth-highest mountain in New York State might be the easiest thing tourists visiting the Adirondacks do, thanks to an 80-year-old American engineering triumph.

Veterans Memorial Highway, a Depression-era project leading to the mountain top, provides visitors with one of the most scenic drives in this beautiful region, so much so that drivers are cautioned by authorities to keep their eyes on the road while ascending and descending.

Climbing the slow, steady incline of a mountain road from downtown Wilmington, going past North Pole, N.Y. and the obligatory Santa's Village, Whiteface visitors must first check in at a toll building ($10 US per vehicle and $5 per passenger) before starting the serious part of their drive to the top.

The 8-km (5-mile) highway is not in good shape, adding to the adventure and underscoring how drivers must pay attention to the curves, bumps and dips while leaving the vista-gazing to passengers. Consider switching drivers at one of the nine scenic lookouts along the way as a safe way to share the view.

Ample parking near the peak for an assortment of cars, SUVs, motorcycles and motorhomes and a small, quaint, castle housing a visitors centre signals the end of the drive and beginning of a trek to the summit.

Visitors can walk about 130 metres through a cool, damp tunnel where an elevator awaits to slowly lift them 27 stories to the summit, 1,485 metres above sea level. Alternatively, a pathway with some sections of handrails makes for a more fun choice for fit adults and energetic children. The pathway is the only choice for people hiking with dogs. And be warned: on damp days this rocky route is slippery.

At the top, there's Summit House, a small castle-like building, and a weather research centre. The castle, like the elevator system and highway, was a Depression work project, and has had its share of famous visitors over the years, including the Kennedy clan.

On a clear day visitors can see Lake Placid, site of the 1932 and 1980 Winter Olympics, and as far away as Quebec and Vermont. The peak is a defining photo spot for Adirondack vacationers.

The drive down the mountain warrants a talk with personnel staffing the parking lot before leaving. They will advise you not to ride the brakes, but rather use a low gear to keep speed in check.

The drive down is trickier than going up.

While Whiteface is now more famous as a ski and mountain-biking venue, the highway and castle were its first attractions, predating development as a ski resort by 20 years.

On the Web www.whiteface.com

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