Sunday, August 22, 2010

Beach-hopping in New Brunswick

FREDERICTON, N.B. -- Though it's sometimes seen as a drive-through province by those en route to other Atlantic provinces, beach lovers know better. Few places in Canada can top New Brunswick's seaside pleasures, whether it's swimming in the warm waters of Northumberland Strait or hiking along clifftop trails above the ocean.

Summer may be winding down but it's still not too late to discover the kilometres of sandy beaches -- many of them located in provincial or national parks, which offer a wealth of other activities. Here's just a small sample of the possibilities:

Swimming with seals

Be prepared for a close-up encounter with a diverse habitat on the 600-metre-long boardwalk that leads to Kellys Beach in Kouchibouguac National Park.

The path traverses sand dunes, lagoons, salt marshes and Acadian forest, and ends at one of the nicest beaches in the Atlantic provinces. Kellys Beach is a gorgeous 6-km-long stretch of sand with the warmest water north of Virginia.

Swim in a supervised roped-off area or walk (90 minutes) to the south end of the sand dunes and swim with the seals! A colony of about 150 grey seals can be found here during the summer. You can also see the animals on a new three-hour Voyageur canoe excursion to offshore sandbars.

Other activities in this national park include hiking (10 trails from .7 km to 11.3 km), canoeing, kayaking, camping and cycling on the 60-km of flat bikeway. Bring your binoculars to increase your chances of seeing the endangered Piping Plover, which nests there. It's one of 223 species of birds that have been recorded in the park. There's also a puppet theatre, and a wigwam where you can learn about Migmag culture (Sundays and Wednesdays at 10 a.m.).

The park is located on the east coast, 100 km north of Moncton on the Northumberland Strait. There are lifeguards at the family friendly beach. Entry $7.80 per adult, $3.90 per youth or $19.60 per family. Check Parkscanada.gc.ca/kouchibouguac.

Been there, dune that

At the Irving Eco-Centre, northeast of Moncton, you can swim at a beach that backs the 12-km-long Dune de Bouctouche, described as "one of the great sand dunes on the northeastern coastline of North America." After lazing on this calm, warm water beach for a while, you may want to check out the interpretive centre with displays on local flora and fauna, or walk along the 2-km-long boardwalk above the dunes. The slender marram grasses have roots that stabilize the shifting sands.

From a lookout tower there's a good view of the winding boardwalk and the long sand spit that juts out into the Northumberland Strait. There's also a 12-km-long hiking-cycling trail through an Acadian forest from the dune into the town of Bouctouche.

Be aware that to protect the ecologically sensitive nature of the area, only the first 2,000 visitors to arrive each day during July and August are allowed onto the boardwalk. Entry free. For more check jdirving.com.

Walk on Water

Visitors driving to Parlee Beach Provincial Park for the first time, no doubt, arrive with high hopes after seeing the sign near the entrance describing it as "New Brunswick's Favourite Beach Destination." It's easy to see why it's so popular. A wide beach that slopes down from a dune, Parlee is about 1-km long with fine grain sand, and because it's on the Northumberland Strait (like Kellys Beach), the water temperature ranges between 18C and 24C in the summer -- perfect for swimming.

And here's something you can't do at most other beaches -- walk on water!

Okay, it's a bit of an illusion, but it's still fun. Just locate the particular sandbar that stretches about 15 metres out from shore, (it's a few centimetres below water level) then impress your friends with your seemingly magical feat!

During a recent visit, I was surprised to find people on the beach as late as 8 p.m. Children were building sand castles, a woman in a lawn chair was reading a book, while others walked along the shore against the backdrop of a spectacular sunset.

The beach is really the park's main attraction but nearby there are volleyball courts, a playground, picnic area and campground. Services include canteens, a restaurant, welcome centre, and boutique with an Olivier Soapery outlet. Parlee is located at Pte-du-Chene, 1 km from Shediac and the beach is supervised.

Entry $10. Check parleebeach.com or nbparks.ca.

A chilly beauty

Mother nature decides when you can visit Pangburn Beach. The water is cold, the shore is composed of golf ball-sized rocks, and to top it off, getting there involves some advance planning. So why bother going you ask? For those with a sense of adventure, who are dazzled by scenic beauty, it's worth the effort.

To truly appreciate the stunning surroundings of this south coast beach, view it first from the Fundy Trail. That's the easy part.

As for getting to Pangburn on foot, that's only possible at low tide, and even then you can't access the beach directly. First make your way down to neighbouring Melvin Beach, then walk around the base of the steep cliff to Pangburn, where you'll likely have the place all to yourself. Just don't forget to leave before the tide rolls in!

Aside from hiking to beaches, you can also bike, kayak or join an interpretive walk on the Fundy Trail, which follows the Bay of Fundy on the south coast, east of Saint John. Entry $4 adults. For more, check fundytailparkway.com.

Swim in a headpond

Many consider this spot in Mactaquac Provincial Park the best beach near Fredericton. Known as Mactaquac Lake by some, technically it's a headpond, created after a dam was built on the St. John River in 1968. Though the sand isn't as nice as Kellys or Parlee beaches, it does have plenty of shade, something lacking at the other two spots.

The water is calm, warm and clear, and, because it's a freshwater beach there's no need to worry about jellyfish, which appear for a few weeks in July at the saltwater beaches. Swimming is just one of the activities available at this 500-hectare multi-use park -- a favourite with campers (303 sites).

There's also an 18-hole golf course, hiking paths, an aerial adventure called Treego, and a recreation centre. Located 30 km northwest of Fredericton. Entry $7 per car. Check nbparks.ca or TourismNewBrunswick.ca or call 1-800-561-0123.

writer@interlog.com

Morgan EvaGT Concept: for a sporting familyVisiting Ontario’s “Port” cities