Sunshine with a side of salsa

It's 10 p.m., Cuban time, and the band is tuning up at Cafe Taberna in Old Havana. Decorating the walls of this 18th-century coffee house are photos of musicians such as Beny More, the 1930s vocalist who would often shout "salsa" ("spice it up") during a hot musical moment. But tonight it's More's great-grandson on stage along with contemporaries of the Buena Vista Social Club. The horns and drums are alive with syncopated sound. And instead of our pressure-cooker 24/7 work beat, we heat-starved northerners are savouring the spicier, 4/4 beat of salsa.

As the high-ceilinged restaurant comes alive with music and song, we sip Cuban mojitos, drinks of fresh mint and cane sugar. Once the music revs up though, we can no longer resist urging our Canadian menfolk to the tiny dance floor. Our steps are a hopeless mishmash of 1950s bebop and 2008 hip-hop. Despite our few twirls and sashes, we look like wooden puppets on strings. Luckily, some friendly Cuban couples come to our rescue. Taking each of us by the hand, they lead us through the steps.

"Feel the music," they urge. "Let the sounds move your feet."

Salsa was actually born in Cuba from a sound called son, a lively combo of African drums and Spanish music. It originated in the 18th century, when Africans, brought to Cuba to work in the plantations, sang to their gods for deliverance. During rituals, they beat on drums or other found objects. When Spanish guitar music was added later, Cubans adopted the music as their own.

Over the last decades, salsa has become even more prominent here, especially a genre called timba that combines traditional Cuban music with horns as well as elements of jazz, rock or even reggae.

Today, throughout the country, anyone can shimmy, sashay and sway to the beat. You'll find salsa classes in hotels and resorts and a raft of salsa clubs in Havana.

After three heady days in this fascinating capital, we hit the beach in Varadero, about two hours away. Yet even here at our ocean resort, we find rhythm and beat -- during a beachside salsa class, dancing in the street at a local fair and the reverberating sounds of guitar with drums during a dinner of roast pig, pumpkin and spicy black beans. You can't beat it. Ole.

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IF YOU GO ...

- The Cafe Taberna (also called Amigos del Benny) was Havana's first coffee shop founded by a Spaniard in 1772. It's worth a visit just to sit at the historic bar and order a mojito or sandwich to hear the live music during lunch and dinner. And yes, there is also salsa on the menu: Spicy sauces (salsas) on chicken or beef! Old Havana just off Plaza Vieja, 531 Calle Mercaderes near the corner of Calle Brasil (Teniente Rey); tel 7-861-1637.

- For more information on Cuba and salsa, visit gocuba.ca or call 416-362-0700.

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