The word "wisky" originates from "uisge beatha," a Celtic or Gaelic reference to "the water of life."
Steeped, so to speak, in legend and lore -- some true -- what famed 19th century Scottish novelist Robert Louis Stevenson called the "king o' drinks" has followers loyal to any one of scores of brands. Some insist only "single malt" is best, others like "blended" Scotch.
With so much confusion over types and copycats abounding, many distilleries and shops offer tips. There are even Scotch classes.
About 200 metres from Always Sunday -- my cousin Mary Macdonald's daytime cafe on High St. in the Royal Mile area of a history-drenched street of old-style shops, churches and squares -- is the well-known Amber Restaurant at the Scotch Whisky Experience on Castlehill.
Before attending a lesson above its store, a super lunch was served in the stone-walled dining room overlooking Johnston Terrace, a lower street seen through half-moon windows. Our table was appropriately garnished with soft-purple Scotch thistles.
Driver Karen Marr -- a former shepherdess with a university history degree -- had haggis, which she pronounced akin to shepherd's pie.
I had fresh salmon with roasted leeks in a light cream sauce. Did I mention the sticky toffee pudding for dessert? But back to Scotch.
The restaurant has a comfortable bar, but for about $20, I highly recommend the tour.
In addition to learning how Scotch is distilled, visitors can sample a dram and leave with a thistle-shaped glass -- perhaps even a bottle or two from the well-stocked shop.
As guide Lali Grifell explained, there are four types of Scotch: Single malt, vatted or "pure" malt, blended and single grain.
Produced at 97 distilleries in Scotland -- 83 owned by multi-national firms -- mostly from barley malted and heated over a peat fire, smoke leaves a distinctive flavour that varies depending on the time span.
Some Scotch is light-coloured, almost clear, others have dark hues similar to steeped tea, I learned on a journalism visit to the Buchanan distillery south of Glasgow in 1980.
The first written mention of Scotch whisky is in the Exchequer Rolls of Scotland, 1495.
With taxes imposed from 1644, illicit distillers flourished, and there were about 400 illegal ones by 1780 -- when eight legal Scotch-makers were registered.
New laws in 1823 eased restrictions, making shady operations more difficult. The drink's popularity increased after a smoother type was developed in 1831.
Note: Unless whisky is brewed within Scotland, it cannot be called "Scotch." And that right will be enforced, anywhere in the world, by the Scotch Whisky Association.
Beware counterfeits with labels reading Scotch "whiskey," "wisky," "wiskey" or "Scottish" whisky.
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IF YOU GO
TO SCOTLAND
FOOD AND DRINK: Located next to Edinburgh Castle, the Scotch Whisky Experience is open year-round except for Christmas Day. Until May, the hours are 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. with the last tour starting at 5 p.m. About $20 for adults. See scotchwhiskyexperience.co.uk.
Amber Restaurant opens for lunch on Monday and Sunday, and for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Serving Scottish, British and European cuisine, a two-course lunch will cost about $25, $4 more for an extra course; full dinners average $70 per person. Menu items include oak-smoked salmon in Highland whisky-dill dressing, $11; fillet of pork with whisky-apple chutney, black pudding and herb mash, $30; pear and almond flan with whisky egg custard, $7.50. See amber-restaurant.co.uk.
TRAVEL TIP: I highly recommend Rabbie's Trail Burners Ltd., which provided our motorcoach and highly-knowledgeable driver, and arranges "whisky tour" drives of distilleries. Contact rabbies.com.
MORE INFORMATION: For details on travelling in Scotland, see visitscotland.com and visitbritain.ca.
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