Tanque Verde's a resort ranch just outside Tucson. I'm up early to do a nature walk, a seemingly pointless activity in drought-ridden southern Arizona.
At first glance, there's not much in the sand-coloured soil but mesquite bushes, whose needle-like thorns repel predators, and cacti. The only real eye-catcher is the giant saguaro. It's found only in the Sonoran Desert and, if it survives 60 or 70 years, starts to sprout arm-shaped appendages.
But an hour with naturalist Rick Hartigan, an ex-cop with a passion for birding, proves this really is a living desert. Hartigan says 180 or more species of birds either live in or come through the 260-hectare property.
Thanks to feeders set up at a nearby shelter, we quickly spot the cactus wren, Arizona's state bird, Gambel's quail, Gila woodpeckers, which puncture the water-filled saguaros, and a phainopepla, a black, crested bird that feasts on the berries of mistletoe growing there.
My biggest kick was seeing a road runner, a reminder of cartoon-watching days, but, sadly, not Wile E. Coyote, though his species is common here.
A colleague caught a glimpse one night of an odd-looking critter later identified as a ringtail, a relative of the raccoon and coatimundi. I smelled, but luckily didn't encounter, skunks, not surprising since four varieties live there.
But the critters that really draw people to Tanque Verde are horses -- they have 180 -- and the chance to ride them.
Never been on a nag? Neither had some of my fellow writers. But they mounted up both morning and afternoon and even participated in "team penning,'' in which six riders try to show eight feisty bull calves who's in charge. (The calves were easy winners).
Kids have their own programs, with riding lessons at least twice daily for Buckaroos (ages four to six) and trail rides as well for Wrangler Kids (7-11). They have their own dining room, too, giving Mom and Dad a break.
Although the emphasis is still on riding, a recent name change from "guest ranch'' to "resort ranch'' reflects an attempt to broaden Tanque Verde's appeal.
"People want adventure and learning,'' says new general manager Paul (Gus) Gustafson,
So they've added such new activities as mountain biking, fishing (in a stocked pond), nature hiking, art classes, tai chi and water aerobics.
Guest rooms are being renovated, but don't expect sheets with high thread counts or high-end toiletries. Oh, and there are no TVs, except in the lounge and one of the bars.
Changes have also been made in the kitchen. We enjoyed a Mexican buffet with mariachi band one night, chose from duck breast, swordfish, prime rib or grilled carne asada the next, and finished with a barbecue where the ribs, barbecued over mesquite, were finger-licking good.
The average stay is 5 1/2 days. Rates start $275 US per person per night, plus 18% service charge and 8.1% state tax. That includes three meals a day, riding and other activities. Spa treatments and drinks are extra. Visit www.tanqueverde.com.
Tanque Verde operates year round. I think Canadians would be most comfortable fall through early spring. I visited Oct. 18-21. It hit 32 one day, a pleasant 80 the next.
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