Monday, November 16, 2009

Etna's exquisite beauty

You can get to the top of Mount Etna the easy way or through hard trekking, but whichever method you choose, the results are dramatic. The largest active volcano in Europe, at a height of almost 11,000 feet, Etna dominates the landscape of Sicily regardless of where you are.

We chose to climb to the top of Etna and were rewarded by breathtaking scenes at every step. The island's ruggedness is easily apparent as you continue to climb, and the higher you get the more the Ionic Sea spreads out before you in pristine blue.

For those looking for a quicker way to ascend to the top, there are cable cars and special terrain buses that get you close. It will cost you $100 per person, but you'll be well-rested at the top and easily capable of wandering around the numerous craters, some still emitting steam, that fill the area.

Once you reach the summit, two things stand out. The first is the stunning majesty of the peak itself, with gases spewing out in different directions and white sulphur deposits on various sides that look like snow from a distance.

You are left free to wander around the summit, but there are warnings to keep clear of the very top lest you be overcome with gases. It's advice to keep in mind, as Etna last erupted in 2001 and 2002, and 11 people were killed near the top in the 1990s. But with sensors placed in strategic spots since then, there is time aplenty to take in the sights and get to the bottom if something similar were to occur.

The second reality that greets you is that massive fields of lava, once running river-like, but now fully encrusted into rock. You get the distinct impression that this is what the moon must be like, with small gravel and massive stones spread in all directions. But in the end it is the view from the top of Etna that will remain in your mind. Like Kilimanjaro, it stands alone atop a huge vista beneath it.

Accommodations around Etna are plenteous and vary widely in price. Years ago, Sicilians opted to build their seaside villages on the face of cliffs and on the top of mountains. The results are like something from Tolkien's Hobbitt and they are spectacular.

From F1

From the coastal highway you can see the towns of Taormina and Castlemola up on the cliffs overlooking the sea. You wonder how you'll get there but we wound our way up on the narrow roads with little difficulty.

Whichever hotel you choose, the view will be unforgettable. We stayed at the Hotel Villa Sonia and from our balcony had an unhindered view of Etna and the entire valley before it. Most hotels offer staggering views of the Ionic Sea as well. Two modern motorways that link Messina and Palermo, make it easy to reach these fascinating villages positioned under Etna's peak. Summer is the best time to get unhindered views of the volcano and to hike around it. It's hot, but bearable.

Sicily is important to Canadians not just for its beauty. Thousands of Canadian troops landed on the island in the first full assault of Europe in the Second World War. The sacrifice of those who died here is epitomized at the Canadian war cemetery in Agira. My father fought there and was stationed with the Canadian First Division as it assisted the British and Americans in driving the German forces off the island. It was a significant moment for Canada and is commemorated in the Agira Cemetery.

IF YOU GO

What: Mount Etna, Taormina, Sicily

When to go: Anytime, but best time: March to October. Skiing in Winter

Access: International Airport in Catania, Sicily. Trains, Buses to Taormina daily

Guided excursions to Mount Etna arranged from hotel or Base of Mountain at Rufugio Sapienza

What to take: Hiking shoes/boots, sweater and jacket all year due to altitude (hat and mitts in winter)

Hotels: Hotels In Taormina considered best in Sicily. European chains, small

independents to B&Bs. Can be booked through most hotel search engines.

For quiet consider staying at Hotel Villa Sonia, Castlemola

Information: www.sicilyguide.com; ww.gotaormina.com; www.funiviaetna.com;

www.hotelvillasonia.com/uk

Glen Pearson is London North Centre MP

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