The morning before the reopening, a small group of journalists wait in the port of Manhattan for a Coast Guard boat to take them for a preview visit. No one can hide their excitement, even if it means climbing 354 stairs in stifling heat. After all, no member of the public has been up in the Statue of Liberty's crown since Sept. 11, 2001.
We arrive on Liberty Island half an hour later. The whole island is deserted. It's total silence, an unbelievable luxury before hundreds of tourists come streaming off the boats the next day.
There's enough security to rival any airport. Visitors are searched before boarding the boat and after arriving on the island. They then enter a tent fit for a sci-fi movie, where a scanner or sorts blasts them with powerful jets of air to test for chemicals on the body. Meanwhile, bags are X-rayed. Why so many precautions?
"Because the statue is the ultimate symbol of the whole nation," a National Park Service ranger explains, making it a perfect target for terrorists.
Americans don't have the same relationship with the Statue of Liberty as Canadians do with their CN Tower or other monuments. Officially titled Liberty Enlightening the World -- and affectionately known as Miss Liberty -- the statue is more than a tourist attraction: It's a symbol of the very essence of their country, liberty, democracy and the end of oppression. It was a gift to the American people by France in 1886 to commemorate the centenary of American independence.
Since Sept. 11, 2001, the symbol has been muted. The Bush administration barred access to the statue as the 123-year-old monument clearly wasn't up to modern security standards.
It was never meant to be an attraction of Disney-like proportions. You realize this once inside; it's cramped and claustrophobic, a hostile environment for overweight tourists.
The crown is accessible via a narrow, 12-storey spiral staircase with slippery metal steps. Not to mention the barely knee-high railing. Once you start going up there's no way back down unless everyone turns around with you.
Before 2001, it wasn't uncommon to see tourists have panic attacks here. Some would faint from the suffocating heat (it's 20 degrees hotter inside than out and very humid). If you move around too much up top, the structure starts to sway several dizzying inches.
"Don't be afraid, it's designed to withstand hurricane winds," a ranger reassures us.
After a major $20 million overhaul, the statue's base reopened to the public in 2004. But the crown, which was still too difficult to evacuate, was kept off-limits. Up until the last minute, the opening wasn't a sure thing. Studies piled higher until the White House recently gave the go-ahead.
Major repairs are scheduled to be completed in two years time. For now, people can only go up ten at a time, escorted by a ranger. It is a more intimate experience than in the days when hordes of tourists crammed the top of the structure.
A DATE WITH LADY LIBERTY
Reaching the crown requires registering on the Internet. The lucky 240 who get to go up each day are chosen by lottery. Bookings are currently being scheduled for the fall. Admission is $15 US for adults, including the boat ride. About 50,000 people are expected to visit this year. That number could climb to 100,000 the year after. For details, go to statuecruises.com.
LIBERTY LORE
- During its first 16 years, the statue served as a lighthouse. The torch was visible 39 km away.
- The 91-metre-tall statue was inaugurated in 1886 and was designed by French sculptor Frederic Bartholdi. The plans were drawn by Gustave Eiffel.
- The torch was replaced in 1986 with a flame covered in 24-karat gold.
- In 2006, the Statue of Liberty had 2.5 million visitors.
MJ.PARENT@SUNMEDIA.CA
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