Maybe it had something to do with two previous fishing trips -- one in the Florida Keys where it rained, and another in the B.C. interior, where my line got horribly tangled in some tree branches. In both cases I caught nothing.
My belief in beginners luck was restored, however, at Lac Vacance, where I managed to hook not one but two speckled trout. Though in truth, credit should go to the guide who put the worms on the hook and others who offered valuable rapid-fire tips as I reeled-in the catch. The barbecue shore lunch that followed with these and other trout that were caught, was one of best meals of the trip.
Fishing is a popular activity in Mauricie, but the main attraction for me was the chance to stay at some of the half of dozen inns that are located deep in the vast forest and to travel between them by floatplane. We spent one night each in three of them and visited a fourth -- the Pourvoirie du Lac Blanc in Saint-Alexis-des-Monts, which organized our fishing trip.
All of the properties offered a quiet and relaxing getaway in the woods with activities such as canoeing, kayaking, hiking, swimming, and bear and beaver watching. We tried to sample a bit of everything on offer.
AUBERGE LAC-A-L'EAU-CLAIRE, SAINT-ALEXIS-DES-MONTS
At one of the newest properties, Auberge Lac-a-l'Eau-Claire (Clear Water Lake), we took a leisurely boat tour of the lake where we saw beaver dams and eagles and enjoyed wine and hors d'oeuvres, while our guide relayed his experiences of hunting for moose. There's also a tree-lined path around the lake, which we explored the next day on all-terrain vehicles.
At one stage we turned off the main path onto a side road that lead to another lake. Here, a family of three in a canoe was pulling up to the dock with their catch of the morning -- seven trout, which they proudly displayed.
Highlights: Spacious rooms with a fireplace, a restaurant menu that includes freshly caught trout prepared several different ways, and the semi-Olympic size pool. For more, check lacaleauclaire.com or call 819-265-3185.
HOTEL SACACOMIE, SAINT-ALEXIS-DES-MONTS
Of all the places we visit, Hotel Sacacomie, constructed of huge White Pine logs and perched on a rocky cliff set in 500 sq km of wilderness, is the most eye-catching. Inside, logs crackle in the lobby's fireplace and animal skins adorn the walls along with artwork by the hotel's owner Joyce Plante.
The 111-room hotel built in 1996, attracts an international clientele and even, occasionally, celebrities. Actor Johnny Depp was here with his wife during filming of the movie Secret Window.
It takes about 15 minutes to get to Hotel Sacacomie by floatplane or half-an-hour by car from Auberge Lac-a-l'Eau-Claire. The plane lands at the hotel's private beach. Nearby is a trapper's lodge and a long house. Since our visit the hotel opened a $5-million spa for its guests.
Highlights: The three-hour beavers and bears (we saw both) wildlife excursion; a tasty four-course dinner for $39; and relaxing on the terrace high above the lake. For more, check sacacomie.com or call 1-888-265-4414.
SEIGNEURIE DU TRITON, LAC EDOUARD
Once an elite private club, the Seigneurie du Triton is a historic inn, whose guests over the years have included Churchill, Roosevelt, Truman and Rockefeller. With its original furniture and walls adorned with historic artifacts, old photos and hunting trophies, the place still has the air of bygone days. Except now it's open to regular folks who also like fishing, boating, hiking and sitting around a campfire listening to the wolves howl.
The hotel was built in 1893 by A.L. Light, a hunting and fishing enthusiast who was the engineer responsible for the construction of the Montreal to Jonquiere railway. Today it's still relatively remote.
There's no road to the 50-room hotel, which can only be reached by boat or floatplane. We flew from Hotel Sacacomie in about an hour. You can also take a train to Triton station and arrange for someone to pick you up by boat from the hotel. Among the specialties on the dinner menu is locally smoked fish and seafood.
Highlights: Curios and historic artifacts in the club house including the Roosevelt rocking chair, canoes that date from the hotel's early days, and a shirt worn by former world ski champion Melanie Turgeon, who stayed at the hotel; and a visit to the nearby Innusit Village for aboriginal story-telling, tea and music.
Contact seigneuriedutriton.com or 418-648-0557.
WRITER@INTERLOG.COM
