Belgium is world renowned for its high quality chocolate based on the use of top-notch ingredients and exceptional production practices. In fact, there are more than 2,100 chocolate shops around the country, and more than 172,000 tons of chocolate are produced every year.
The country takes its chocolate very seriously. In 2000, a European Union decision allowed for up to 5% of the cocoa butter in chocolate to be replaced with vegetable fat and still be called chocolate. This offers chocolate makers a huge cost savings as vegetable fat is cheaper than cocoa butter. However, chocolate purists and artisanal producers under a designation called AMBAO (Swahili for cocoa) use only 100% cocoa butter, preserving the integrity and taste of their chocolate.
Even in a chocolate mecca like Belgium, there is a lot of cheaper chocolate available. Just keep in mind that price is a real indication of quality and cocoa content. You get what you pay for. For better quality chocolate, look for names such as Neuhaus, Galler, Le Chocolatier Manon, Pierre Marcoloni, Mary (official purveyor of chocolate to the Belgian court), Wittamer (which started in Austria) and Leonidas (cheaper than the others, but still quite good).
A pilgrimage site for chocolate lovers is the Neuhaus store on Galerie de la Reine in Brussels, which has existed on the site since 1857 when Jean Neuhaus arrived from Switzerland and opened his shop of tasty treats.
It was his grandson, also named Jean Neuhaus, who put Belgium on the map when he created pralines in 1912. He developed the technique for these individual, hand-crafted delicacies that consist of a "couverture" chocolate shell that hold all kinds of fillings including caramels, hazelnut, creams and ganaches. Common today, it revolutionized and expanded chocolate offerings from that day forward.
Christian Manon of Le Chocolatier Manon prides himself on his authentic, traditional, handmade pralines. He makes all his own fillings -- 65 different kinds -- from fresh ingredients such as butter, cream, nuts and fruits.
"People aren't informed enough about quality chocolate. Much of the factory-produced chocolate has way too much sugar and fat in it. Eat a few pieces and you'll find the fat sticks in your throat. Butter doesn't, so you'll know it's good," he says.
One of Manon's most popular flavours is a multi-layered chocolate called "bouchon" that includes dark chocolate with cognac buttercream. Believe me, it's delicious. (In Toronto, you can buy Manon chocolates at Chocolates & Creams on Queen's Quay West.)
Many of today's artisan chocolatiers are distinguishing themselves by the originality and flavour of their fillings. Chocolatier Pierre Marcolini's high-end store on Rue des Minimes looks like a designer fashion boutique. And like haute couture fashion, he launches different summer and winter chocolate collections, plus special editions for Christmas and Easter. The exquisite packaging rivals that created for the finest perfumes.
Increasingly, he has been creating chocolate that emphasizes the origin of the cocoa beans, from places such as Ghana, Ecuador and Venezuela. Sampled in this way you really taste the difference, the cocoa reflecting its origin much like terroir affects the flavour of wine.
At the modest Musee du Cacao et du Chocolate (mucc.be) just off the Grand Place, visitors learn all about how cacao beans are grown and processed, as well as production techniques for making chocolate.
Excellent chocolate shops can be found around the country. If you're in the charming, historic city of Brugges, don't miss The Chocolate Line on Simon Stevinplein. Self-described "shock-o-latier" Dominique Persoone has crafted some unusual flavours of chocolates: Marzipan with black olives, fresh basil and sun-dried tomatoes, cola and almond praline that pops in your mouth, and tequila and sea salt.
Also stop by Chocolaterie Sukerbuyc on Katelijnestraat. At Sukerbuyc (sugarbelly in English), you can watch the chocolatiers at work from a glassed viewing area. Its tea room called "de Proeverie" is situated opposite the shop and is famous for its hot chocolate. Its dark chocolate hazelnut pralines are divine.
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For information on chocolate tours and events, go to visitbelgium.com/chocolate.htm. For travel information, see visitflanders.us.
