Monday, July 12, 2010

A weekend in Seattle

WASHINGTON STATE - Seattle, a coastal town in the state of Washington, the birthplace of the grunge scene and Starbucks, is bustling with life, especially when the sun joins the fun. Even if it rains a lot in Seattle – about 150 days of rain per year – the city is far from being glum. If you have the chance, a weekend in Seattle could easily become quite intoxicating! Here are a few pointers for a lively 48 hours.

Day 1

9 AM

Wake up at the Fairmount Olympic Hotel, in the heart of downtown Seattle. This hotel, which is part of the history of Seattle, is an attraction in itself. Built in 1861 to welcome the University of Washington, it was transformed into a play house in 1911 and, finally, into the Olympic Hotel in 1924. Breakfast at the Georgian, the hotel's magnificent and chic dining room, is a must. This little moment in the lap of luxury will lend a royal air to your weekend.

11 AM

Once your two feet are grounded, head straight to the market place. Head down Pike Street towards First Street. Around noon, the market’s excitement reaches its climax. If the sun is out, the street becomes alive; the fresh fish merchants will even go as far as throwing fish over the customers. The florists are everywhere just like fresh fruit and cheese shops. This colourful and fragrance-full spectacle reminds me of the Jean Talon Market in Montreal, simply put, the best place to fill up your senses and your belly.

2 PM

If you still have some room left when you leave the market, you absolutely have to stop by the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory, a must for your sweet tooth. The window display alone will make your mouth water with its chocolate-dipped apples, caramels and candies. Inside, you’ll be able to observe the chocolate makers at work and will be unable to resist having a little taste here and there. Be careful, you may waste a lot of time choosing from the full array of available chocolates and sweets. Hurry up, Seattle is waiting!

2:30 PM

A few blocks away, on First Avenue, you’ll find the SAM, Seattle Art Museum. It’s currently presenting the Kurt exhibit, showing Kurt Cobain through various works of art. The works of art from the early nineties up to today, featuring artists such as Rodney Graham, Douglas Gordon and Elizabeth Peyton, force the public to reflect upon the influence that Kurt Cobain has had on a whole generation. Originally from Aberdeen, a small town close to Seattle, Cobain meant a lot more to his many fans than the grunge movement’s guiding light. The exhibit will be on display from May 13 to September 6, 2010.

6:30 PM

Walking through the SAM will without a doubt get your appetite going. The Wild Ginger restaurant on Third Avenue offers a succulent, Thai-inspired menu. We love its satay bar, the lounge’s atmosphere and its affordable prices.

8:00 PM

You can’t spend time in Seattle without seeing a concert. The Seattle Weekly’s website (seattleweekly.com) maintains a day-to-day list of the shows available in the city. Using the site’s search engine, you will quickly find an act you’d love to catch, depending upon your preferred kind of music, the date or the time of choice.

The jazz fans among you will find a great venue right next to the Wild Ginger, The Triple Door bar, where you can catch national and local musicians night after night. You can thus bring your evening to a close with some great music and of course, while enjoying a refreshing Mango mojito, the house specialty.

Day 2

10 AM

Seattle’s monorail is the day’s first stop. It will bring you directly to Seattle's centre, where you can find a lot of attractions like the famous Space Needle. This 605-foot high landmark symbolises Seattle to its many tourists. You can get to the top through a glass elevator that travels at a speed of 10 miles per hour. From atop the tower, the view is absolutely spectacular. You can see the city in its entirety, enclosed by Lake Washington and Elliott Bay. The SkyCity restaurant, on the Space Needle’s top floor, rotates constantly: for those of you who will decide to have lunch or dinner there, you’ll get 360 degree view of the city.

1 PM

Right next door to the Space Needle, the Experience Music Project and Science Fiction Museum attracts one’s attention simply through the original non-linear architecture. It’s well worth your while to visit it. You can catch the temporary exhibit Taking Aim: Unforgettable Rock ‘n’ Roll Photographs, displaying pictures from the history of rock’s greatest moments, selected by music legend Graham Nash. The exhibit presents pictures of Neil Young, Elvis Presley, Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin and Kurt Cobain.

3 PM

Back to the downtown core via monorail; time to head off to the Seattle Aquarium. A visit to the Aquarium lets you discover the life below the surface of Elliot Bay. The giant aquarium will impress the young and the young at heart, just like the sea star basins and illuminated jellyfish tunnel.

The Port of Seattle, located between Puget Sound, an inlet of the Pacific Ocean that penetrates into the west coast of the American continent and Lake Washington, is among the 10 biggest ports in North America.

6 PM

If the ocean’s cool air stirs your love of fish and seafood, Anthony’s Pier 66 restaurant will surely fulfil your needs. With its two patios overlooking the bay, you can enjoy the catch of the day, fresh obviously, while watching the sunset. Since the temperature is much cooler on the waterfront, the owner has set up his patios with heating lamps. For those among you who are more sensitive to the cold air, blankets are also provided.

A walk down Alaskan Way, the street that lines the Port of Seattle, with a delicious ice-cream cone as your dessert, is the best way to end your evening and a wonderful way to close your busy weekend in Seattle.

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Great beaches around Ottawa

Great beaches around Ottawa.

Aylmer Beach

Only a few blocks from Aylmer’s downtown core, the sprawling public beach is a busy spot on weekends, but don’t let that deter you. With a wealth of amenities — including change rooms, washrooms, playground, plenty of greenspace, cycling paths, and a sandy beachfront — it’s a great family destination.

The nearby Aylmer Marina Restaurant is a great place to enjoy some shade under the patio umbrellas and watch passersby.

Directions: Take the Champlain Bridge, left on Rue Principale, follow to the end.

Baskin’s Beach

At the end of Baskin’s Beach Rd. sits a small stretch of sandy lakefront belonging to the trailer park across the street. Named after William Baskin, the area’s first lighthouse keeper in the late 1800s, it’s a quaint beach with a sandy shoreline that looks across to the majestic Gatineau Hills and upriver toward Twelve Mile Island.

Despite the signs noting its private ownership, according to a resident there, a nominal fee for day use can be paid to the owner of the Baskin’s Beach Campsite, which also boasts a small canteen. There are no bathrooms on site and no pets allowed, but the Port of Call Marina is only a short drive away.

A small grassy area offers a place to picnic under the shade of surrounding trees.

Directions: Take Hwy. 417 to March Rd. north. Right on Dunrobin Rd. Right at Vances Sd. Rd. to Baskin’s Beach Rd. Follow to Baskin’s Beach Campsite on the left.

The Point Beach, Constance Bay

There is ongoing debate over the ownership of the beachfront in Constance Bay. A number of area residents have recently posted signs at the edge of the beach reading “No Stopping, No Alcohol, No Walking after Sunset.”

The Point, however, remains one of the only public access points to the Ottawa River in the quiet village beyond the bucolic pastures of Dunrobin. A beautiful stretch of hot sand and calm water, the beach is an enticing spot for families during the day.

Amenities include limited parking and outhouses. The Point Dining Lounge also offers a place to take refuge from the sun to enjoy some food or a cold drink.

Directions: Take Hwy. 417 to March Rd. north. Right on Dunrobin Rd. Right on Constance Bay Rd. follow left to Bayview Dr. Turn right at the corner of Bishop Davis Dr. and Lane St.

Crown Point

West Carleton’s Crown Point is really a hidden gem. Though there are no amenities, there’s enough parking for a few vehicles at the end of Dunrobin Rd. where it meets the beach. The narrow, sandy, secluded beachfront is the perfect destination for a romantic afternoon picnic and a great place to launch a canoe or kayak. Parts of the waterline are grassy, but there is ample opportunity for a good swim.

Directions: Take Hwy. 417 to March Rd. north. Right on Dunrobin Rd. Follow to the end.

Fitzroy Provincial Park, Fitzroy Harbour

Nestled in the provincial park not far from the former home of Charles Shirreff, the founder of Fitzroy Harbour, is an idyllic setting for an afternoon on the water. The long, well-kept beach fronts onto a narrow straight. Boasting ample parkland with plenty of space to throw a baseball or frisbee, the beach is the perfect place for families. There is a beach volleyball court, a playground, plenty of picnic tables and charcoal barbeques and amenities including washrooms and change rooms.

Overnight camping is also an option if you’re looking for a cheap weekend away.

Directions: Take Hwy. 417 west to Kinburn Sd. Rd. Exit right, then left on Hwy. 17. Right on Galetta Sd. Rd. to Canon Smith Dr. Follow signs to park.

Robert Simpson Park, Arnprior

If for nothing other than a change of scenery, the beach at Robert Simpson Park is worth the hour drive. Set on a sandy point on the Ottawa River just above the mouth of the Madawaska, the area is steeped in local history. It’s the site where Daniel McLachlin, one of the region’s most successful businessmen, built a huge sawmill in the mid-1800s.

On the hill above the beach is a well-maintained park with a playground and splash pad for children and a gazebo and bandstand that overlooks the point. Other amenities include bathrooms and a park canteen, which opens July 1.

Directions: Hwy. 417 to Daniel St. in Arnprior. Left on Madawaska St., right on John St. Follow to the end.

La Peche

Take a dip under the stars at Lac La Peche, which boasts 32 campsites spread out over 12 spots across the lake. At $35 a night, it’s a great way to enjoy the wilderness and take advantage of the beautiful beach. If camping is not your thing, a day trip by car will cost you $10. The long, sandy, supervised beach set in the pristine Gatineau Park is a popular destination for families and is very accessible. The location offers opportunities to play, canoe and hike. Change rooms, washrooms, and charcoal barbecues are a few of the amenities.

Directions: Take the Macdonald-Cartier bridge to Hwy. 5. From Hwy. 5 North, take Hwy. 105 North. Turn left on Hwy 366 West. In the village of Saint-Francois-de-Marsham, turn left on Eardley Rd. and follow signage to the lake.

Lavant Community Centre Park Beach

For a township dotted mostly with swamps, the beach at the Lavant Community Centre Park is a haven for local residents and cottagers alike. The sandy lakefront is small but set on the picturesque Robertson Lake, a great day-trip destination for swimming and canoeing.

The park features a baseball diamond, an old swing set, a few picnic tables and change rooms. The new community centre, once opened, will also offer visitors bathrooms.

Directions: Take Hwy. 417 to Regional Road 49, turn left and follow through Almonte to Hopetown. Turn right on Hwy. 511, then left on South Lavant Rd. Follow to Lavant, stay right, left into park.

O’Brien Beach, Meech Lake

Set at the southeast end of Meech Lake, O’Brien Beach is another gorgeous spot for day-trippers to Gatineau Park. A small beach sunk into the Gatineau Hills, the spot is very popular among weekend visitors.

Amenities include picnic tables, park benches, washrooms and change rooms. The small grassy area offers opportunities to picnic or kick a ball around.

Directions: Take the Macdonald-Cartier bridge to Hwy. 5. From Hwy. 5 North, take Hwy. 105 North. Turn left on Hwy. 366 West. In the village of Saint-Francois-de-Marsham, turn left on Eardley Rd., then right at Sincennes Rd. Drive until you reach La Peche Lake.

Plage-Baie-Noire, Luskville

Perhaps one the region’s most beautiful beaches, Plage-Baie-Noire is a well-hidden jewel. Cottages dot the shoreline along Chemin des Pins, a private road, and public access is very limited via a well-hidden pedestrian path in between two properties. You have to keep your eyes peeled.

No amenities, not even parking (though you can park along Chemin de la Baie nearby), the beach might not be for everyone. But for the true adventurer, Plage-Baie-Noire is certainly worth the treasure hunt. Across the river from Constance Bay, the hot, sandy beach is a pleasure to tromp around on and the water is perfect.

Directions: Take the Chaudieres Bridge, left on Alexandre-Tache Blvd., right on Montcalm, turn left des Allumettieres Blvd./Hwy. 148. Follow to Aylmer, stay right on 148. Left at Chemin du Village, left at Chemin Damas Perrier, right onto Chemin de la Baie, right on Chemin des Pins.

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Honouring a famous Dutch drink

AMSTERDAM, the Netherlands - It was Rembrandt’s favourite drink. Or at least one he enjoyed on multiple occasions. Genever - Dutch gin to the uninitiated - is a distilled spirit made with malt-wine, juniper berry distillate and other botanicals.

Rembrandt, as it turns out, had befriended fellow Dutchman Lucas Bols, whose family produced genever, and once even paid his liquor bill with a painting by one of his students. That large canvas (The Cup of the Farao by Hendrik Heerschop) now hangs in a glass case in the fascinating House of Bols Cocktail and Genever Experience museum.

Images: Destination themed drinks

Images: Best spots to have a beer

While there are several Dutch-based genever distilleries, Bols is said to be the largest and best-known. In fact it bills itself as the “world’s oldest distilled spirit brand” - in Amsterdam since 1575. Originally, the company produced liqueurs (Lucas Bols now has 35 liqueurs sold in 100 countries).

Genever was added 100 years later.

“Gevener,” said my Dutch friend Nanda, after I convinced her to join me on a labyrinth tour of the museum, “that’s a popular drink with older people.” Maybe so, but the museum, with its flashy interior, dance hall music (in the club room), and innovative bottle shapes designed with savvy bartenders in mind, gives the impression it’s trying to appeal to a younger crowd. Opened in 2007, the museum won a prestigious Dutch Design Award.

If the property doesn’t dazzle you with its mirrors, reflective alcoves and mood-altering rooms, it’ll grab your attention with interactive exhibits that focus on the five-senses. Visitors can test their sense of smell with the 36 “sniffer” bottles. Squeezing the attached puffers releases a medley of scents.

In the Discover the Secrets of Taste section, large drawers open to reveal such items as an enormous book of herbs dating to 1644 - a reference book used by Lucas Bols, or juniper berries and cloves, which you’re encouraged to handle. Another drawer contains herbs and other ingredients used in Bols liqueurs such as vanilla pods, dried mint, star anise, black peppercorns and hops.

Then, there’s the collection of miniature Delft Blue houses, each one based on a famous building in the Netherlands. Given to KLM business class passengers since the 1950s, these were originally filled with Bols liqueur, and later Bols young genever. Each year a new house is introduced. There are now 87 in all, and they’ve become collector’s items.

I glance up at Nanda and notice an expression of shock.

“What’s wrong?” I ask.

“Last week I was cleaning and put a house just like this in a box and gave it to charity,” she laments. The wonderful Dutch trait of tidiness occasionally has its drawbacks.

Cheer up, the mirror bar (and our complimentary drink) is still ahead. But first we have to create our own cocktails, using an electronic terminal that will identify our taste preferences. The screen asks me to choose between aromatic or fruity, simple or complex, and then, one of five fruit flavours.

Seconds later, a machine spits out our personalized drink recipes, which we take to the bartender.

Nanda finds her drink a little too strong, so we share my icy Pomegranate Collins, a refreshing combination of Bols Corenwyn, pomegranate juice, mandarin slices and lemon juice.

I doubt if drinking genever will make either of us paint like an Old Dutch Master, but one thing is certain - a visit to the House of Bols museum definitely heightens the senses.

writer@interlog.com

All about Genever

- Genever was originally used for medicinal purposes and wasn’t widely consumed recreationally until the 17th century n The last descendant of the Bols family died in 1816, but the company continued to develop. After falling into foreign hands in 2000, Bols was brought back to the Netherlands in 2006.

- Traditionally, Bols Genever is filled to the rim of a tulip glass. The only way to drink it without losing a drop is to lean over and slurp the first sip from a stationary glass.

- Genever is the Dutch word for juniper. The juniper berry is one of the main ingredients in the alcoholic beverage.

- Bols zeer oude genever, the first genever distilled by Bols, is still made in copper stills using the same 400-year-old method and craftsmanship.

After the Second World War, a new recipe was created - young (jonge) genever - which is less sweet and has a lower malt-wine content.

- The Bols Bartending Academy offers a 90-minute cocktail workshop.

If you go to the Netherlands

Located across from the Van Gogh Museum, the House of Bols is open every day except Tuesday. Admission is 11.50 euros (about $14.50) or 25% off with the I Amsterdam City Card. Price includes a cocktail of your choice. The Bols shop at the end of the tour has all 36 Bols liqueurs.

Check houseofbols.com

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Lebanon attracts tourists, money, glamour

Two years ago, Lebanon was reeling from a crisis which brought gun battles onto the streets of Beirut, forced its airport to shut, and threatened to pitch the tiny Mediterranean country back into civil war.

Fastforward to 2010: Soaring economic growth, relative calm on its southern border with Israel and a truce between rival politicians have given crisis-ridden Lebanon a window of stability which it is translating into a tourist boom.

Tourism Minister Fadi Abboud said he expects 2.2 million tourists to visit this year, up 25 percent from last year's record, when the sector contributed a quarter of GDP.

Already Arab Gulf tourists fill the capital's five-star hotels, their gas-guzzling Hummers choke Beirut's narrow streets and their Asian staff struggle to carry dozens of shopping bags emblazoned with the names of top international brands.

Beaches brim with bikini-clad, tanned women and come nighttime, clubs host Europe's top DJs who play to audiences of thousands, many of whom are flush with cash from jobs abroad and are happy to spend hundreds of dollars on food, drink and music.

Forty percent of this year's tourist are expected to be Arabs, another 40 percent Europeans and the rest from other parts of the world.

"People are in love with this country," Abboud said in an interview last week. "I'm expecting a very, very good summer. Probably the best in our history."

The ever-present threat of war with Israel, which waged a 34-day conflict against Lebanon's Hezbollah in 2006, does little to dent Abboud's enthusiasm. "Certainly, security is very, very important but even after the war, the day the war finished, people started coming back again," he said.

Prime Minister Saad al-Hariri's government has also pledged to implement reforms, from privatization to slashing debt, and the IMF predicts another year of economic growth of 8 percent.

"BRAND LEBANON"

Lebanon's resilience and ability to rebound from crises is what encourages many people to visit and spurs investors to pour millions of dollars in real estate projects, one of the country's biggest money-making sectors.

Just a week after feuding Lebanese leaders sealed a political deal in 2008 to end 18 months of conflict, restaurants had re-opened, hotel bookings soared and tourists replaced gunmen on the streets of Beirut.

Now it's skyline is dotted with cranes working to build multi-million dollar skyscrapers and five-star hotels.

The influx of cash is also apparent in lavish schemes. For $250 per person, a crane will lift you and 21 others 50 meters above ground to enjoy dinner while taking in Beirut's sights. Just want to watch the sunset? That'll be $120.

Gordon Campbell Gray, who opened the luxury Le Gray hotel in Beirut's downtown Solidere district late last year, said his occupancy rate was well above 90 percent.

"Since the day we opened, we've been absolutely packed," he told Reuters at an economic conference.

When he decided four years ago to open the hotel "everyone thought I was crazy, but it's really spectacular. It ended up being one of the busiest hotels in our portfolio," he said, adding he was building a beach resort south of Beirut and considering another project in the mountains.

His hotel, with a rooftop swimming pool, a cigar bar and espresso machines in the 87-room, yellow-stoned structure, is attracting first-time visitors from Europe.

Asked why they would still come and pay $400 a night for a deluxe room when Europe is suffering from a financial crisis and falling euro, Gray says:

"Brand Lebanon -- the people, the resilience of the Lebanese people ... They have a spirit, unique which I know has come out of their history."

"GROWING LIKE MUSHROOMS"

Glitz, glamour and decadent riches aside, Tourism Minister Abboud is quick to point out that he wants to change the image that Lebanon is "the country of only millionaire tourists."

Lebanon boasts spectacular sights where hundreds of dollars need not be spent -- including mountain trails, the subterranean lakes and caves at Jeitta grotto and the Roman ruins of Baalbek.

While many restaurants charge top dollar, hundreds of more modest outlets offer Lebanon's famed mezze, or small dishes of salads, dips and raw meat.

"They (restaurants) are growing like mushrooms, by the end of this summer there'll be 8,000," from last year's estimate of 7,000, Abboud said. There are also 10 international music festivals and about 100 local ones, mostly in the open air.

Even renewed tensions after Israel accused Syria of supplying Hezbollah guerrillas with long-range Scud missiles have failed to dent the optimism.

Abboud's peeves at the moment are that Beirut's airport is not a smoke-free zone, weeds grow along the runway, and taxi drivers try to extort exorbitant prices from passengers.

As for a war? The only one Lebanon has been fighting with Israel in recent months is what has come to be known as the "hummous wars" -- with each country vying to hold the record for the biggest plate of hummous ever created.

A month ago, Lebanon triumphed with a 10 tone plate of hummous. But as in other recent battles between the two hostile neighbors, an Israeli retaliation cannot be ruled out.

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Friday, July 9, 2010

Stampede spirit 'floats'

With the crackle of fireworks drowning out full-throated cries of "yahoo," this year's edition of the Stampede Parade hit Calgary streets with a bang.

Huge crowds packed into Cowtown's downtown Friday as an expected crowd of 350,000 spectators-turned-cowpokes basked in some early morning sun, ready to saddle up for the Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth.

For the first time since the spectacle began in 1912, a stirring display of pyrotechnics signaled the parade's start, ushering legions of horses, marching bands and floats into the core.

Dana and Mark Bergen of Chetwynd, B.C. brought their kids, Casey, 4, and Carter, 2, for their very first parade and were startled when the colourful fireworks popped right next to them, sending streams of light and smoke in the air.

"This is their first parade -- I haven't been to this since I was their age," said Dana.

"The fireworks were very cool."

The lengthy procession of mobile entertainment began the 4.5-km route just before 9 a.m., earning cheers and applause from the crowds that lined 6 Ave. S.E.

Savvy parade enthusiasts staked out their street-side turf at dawn, parking their Wranglers on blankets, lawn chairs and in some cases plain concrete in hopes of securing the choice vantage points.

Some 3,000 people and 750 horses were among the 267 entries that provided something for everybody.

The anticipation near the parade's start build thanks to several full throttle fly-bys from the Canadian Snowbirds while mascot Harry the Horse worked the crowd.

Heather Lee from Coaldale, Alta roused her kids out of bed at 5 a.m. from a relative's home to secure a prime spot near the parade's start.

Huddled under blankets, the family could barely wait for the show to start.

"I want to see the horsies," said 11-year-old Abigail Lee while her 7-year-old brother Jonah, at his first Stampede Parade, had no idea what was tops on his list.

Parade marshalls Cord and Jet McCoy, the Oklahoma cowboy brothers who placed second in the most recent edition of the reality hit The Amazing Race, received a warm reception with one in the crowd excitedly shouting, "We love you."

The approximately two-hour parade marks the official kick-off of Calgary's biggest party, the 10-day Stampede, which this year wraps up on July 18.

shawn.logan@sunmedia.ca

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Stampede heats up Calgary

It’s that time of year again — Calgary has officially transformed into Cowtown.

Approximately 1.2 million people are expected to gallop through the Calgary Stampede gates over the next 10 days, said spokesman Doug Fraser.

“We expect it to be one of the biggest and best shows in history,” he said.

And with Environment Canada forecasting highs of 28C for Friday, 26C for Saturday and Sunday, and 28C for Monday, the grounds will be especially smokin’ the first four days.

General admission is $14 while kids between seven and 12 and seniors pay $7 each.

Kids six and under are free.

Among this year’s new attractions are the Rock ‘n’ Roll Ice Show in the Stampede Corral, which will feature a live band, acrobats and notable figure skating and ice dancing names such as Elvis Stojko and Olympic gold medallists Tessa Virtue and Scott Moir.

“It’s a show that’s never been seen before in the world,” said Fraser.

Also new is Draft Horse Town, a display of horsepower as part of the west’s history in Saddledome Lane, the Cowboy Up obstacle course challenge happening Saturday through Monday in the Saddledome, and Ignite, a drumming and stunt show on the Bell Midway Circus.

The RCMP Musical Ride has been cancelled due to one of the horses involved coming down with a contagious infection that could have spread to the other 7,500 animals on the grounds, said Fraser.

However, a returning family favourite, the President’s Choice Superdogs show, is now in a new location — the upper level of the Big Four building where the Stampede has added 2,500 seats.

Meantime, spectators will have the chance to see “120 of the best cowboys and cowgirls in the world” compete for $2 million in prizes at rodeo events including steer wresting, bull riding and barrel racing, said Fraser.

Tickets range in price from $12 for standing room to $345 for the best seats.

Each night, the chuckwagon races will lead into the Grandstand Show, which is a world party theme and will feature Cirque du Soleil acrobats and stunt riders.

Tickets for the GMC Rangeland Derby and Grandstand Show range from $15 to $345.

“It’s spectacular, we have a phenomenal show,” said Fraser.

The midway is also looking to please with some new cuisine — including a pulled pork parfait and cheese on a stick — as well as a brand new ride called The Skater.

Musical headliners Kid Rock and Bon Jovi will play the Saddledome, while big names such as Martina McBride and Barenaked Ladies are among the performers slotted for the Coca-Cola Stage.

jenna.mcmurray@sunmedia.ca

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Thursday, July 8, 2010

Nevada canyon all about the views

LAS VEGAS, Nevada -- For some visitors, Red Rock Canyon, with its picturesque scenery, is the ideal place for hiking. For others, the main attraction is rock climbing. But for the eight travellers on this Pink Jeep tour, a road trip is the way to go. Why?

First, it's the best way to cover a lot of ground in a short amount of time, but second -- the desert sun is blazing hot. The average summer temperature in the canyon is a searing 34 C. Why exert yourself more than necessary?

Images: At Red Rock Conservation Area

Images: Along the Vegas Strip

Just 30 km west of Las Vegas, Red Rock Canyon seems worlds away from "the strip," and the continuous chinking sounds of the slot machines.

This is a land of mountains, canyons, and springs, with an abundance of animal life -- 45 species of mammals, 100 birds and 30 reptiles and amphibians -- and no fewer than eight major plant communities, The four-hour tour takes you from one spectacular viewpoint to another, each one seemingly as impressive as the last. Surprisingly, though, there are very few vehicles on the roads, and most of the people we do see are on bicycles.

One of the first stops is at the newly opened Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area Visitor Center. Most of the exhibits, which focus on the four themed elements: Earth, wind, fire and water, are outside, where the Red Rocks provide a scenic backdrop and the solar-powered air conditioner keeps visitors cool.

For most of its history, Red Rock Canyon was below a shallow sea. As the waters evaporated over time, the limestone ocean floor emerged and became a dry land mass due to earthquake activity. Sand, started to accumulate creating dunes, and at some stage, iron in the sand rusted, resulting in the red hues you see today.

While you're here, look for the tortoise, the state reptile. Seven of them live in an enclosure including, "Mojave Max," who every year awakes from months of slumber to signal the arrival of spring. Max and three of his pals make an appearance during our visit.

Back in the jeep, we head out on a 20-km scenic loop, stopping at the brilliantly coloured Calico Hills, where our guide hands us binoculars to watch the daring rock climbers up close. The area is considered one of the top five climbing destinations in the U.S. and has more than 2,000 climbing routes.

There are hikers too, who have 19 trails from which to choose. These range from the easy one-hour return Willow Springs Loop, to the strenuous four-hour hike to Turtlehead Peak.

Continuing on the loop road, we learn of the dangers of flash floods -- something that's hard to imagine on such a dry, hot day. Guide Carol Keane, relays the story of a woman who was stranded during one of these sudden events. Searching for higher ground, she stood on the roof of her car and called for help. A fire truck arrived on the scene, but soon the firemen became stranded, too. Eventually, all had to be airlifted to safety.

Another scenic stop is at High Point Overlook, elevation 1,445 metres, where we're surrounded by the Spring Mountains. Off in the distance is the 65-million-year-old Keystone Thrust -- the result of two of the Earth's crustal plates colliding, forcing older limestone and dolomite plates from the ancient seas over younger red and white sandstones. Sit back and enjoy the view from one of the benches made of recycled plastic.

At Willow Springs, the next destination, we see our first pictograph.

Halfway up a large boulder are five handprints painted on the rock surface. Nearby is another prehistoric feature -- a roasting pit, which I'd read about at the visitor centre. The circular areas of fire-cracked, whitened limestone, were used to roast agave hearts, desert tortoise, and other foods.

So far, we've been travelling on paved roads, but now we veer off onto gravel for some off-road driving on the Rocky Gap Route. The guide shows us where you can get a photo of yourself rock climbing. (If you frame it right, no one will know you're just half a metre off the ground and not dangerously high on a precarious cliff!)

Most people would think it was a sure bet -- this is gambling country after all -- that the Vegas "strip" and Red Rock Canyon have nothing in common. But I beg to differ. Both are awe-inspiring -- albeit for different reasons.

writer@interlog.com

Go wild

Animals that can be seen at Red Rock Canyon include bobcats, mountain lions, desert bighorn sheep, badgers, coyotes, scorpions, tarantulas, ground squirrels and rattlesnakes. The area is also home to several groups of wild burros and wild horses (Nevada has more wild horses than any other state). These live in groups called bands that range in size from three to 13 animals. The bands originated from animals that escaped or were abandoned by settlers, ranchers, prospectors and/or Native American tribes. The best chance of seeing wild horses is south of State Route 160, while most of the burros live north of State Route 160.

More information

Check PinkJeep.com or call 888-900-4480 or 702-895-6777. The four-hour Red Rock Canyon tour is $94 US per person and is offered in the morning and afternoon. For Nevada tourism information, check travelnevada.com.

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